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Comments
I have googled stuff up and down on issues with the actual hard top, but I can't find anything! The Dealership themselves have never seen this issue before either.
I am petrified to drive the car anywhere thinking that the top will not close or open for me and I've only had the car for THREE MONTHS! It's a 2009.
Has anyone esle had similar experiences?
-Amy
yours is the first i've heard, but i'm not at all surprised. if you financed your purchase or lease thru VW, make sure the finance arm knows of your misery. VW credited my lease a month's worth of payments for the 30+ days my EOS was down with transmission issues.
You should not be liable for a penny on the top. Covered by warranty. INSIST.
My top issue has been resolved by installing new guide wires.
Out of service for 30 days OR
Same repair done 3 times or more.
Consult a lawyer online under Lemon Law for your state.
Ask VW to buy back the car and make you whole for window tinting, licenses and any other stuff you added.
I couldn't agree with you more!!
I have to take it to the dealship tonight to have them look at my windows and why they rattle so much. UGH.
I also wanted to let you know that my back window goes down half way as well, so you're not alone in that aspect!
Hang in there!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
This started with an "accident in the trunk". Transporting toilet bowl cleaner (and groceries) home, and some of the tbc spilled. I cleaned it up as best I could the next day, but the leftover vapors corroded every hinge, cable, lever, etc inside the trunk (where all the conv-top mechanism lives). One day a few weeks later, the top went half way down and stopped. VW dealer assessed the damage and gave me an estimate of "$15,000 plus" . . . fortunately, State Farm covered this under my comprehensive policy. Four weeks later, I got the car back.
Four weeks after that, the top failed to work: "Convertible Top Fault: Workshop" appears in the message center. Dealer has had it four days now.
moral to the story: don't spill any chemicals in the trunk!
Anyway, I will be extra careful not to put anything in my Eos that can cause that kind of damage. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
But they replaced every blessed cable, hinge, screw, pulley, pump, piston and lever in the mechanism, including the entire top ($6,000 alone). Now there are continuing problems because the dealer doesn't seem to be able to set it up exactly like the factory did.
Currently, it's spending its fourth day in the shop, and they can get the top down, but not far enough so that the trunk lid closes. Only 8,000 miles on the car.
Has anyone had this problem or found the solution? I think it's all computer related.
Thanks.
The sensors located in the A-pillar (that sense if the forward corners of the top are in-place) were installed upside down. This caused a "sometimes works, sometimes doesn't" syndrome.
My career in the design of commercial lighting equipment tells me that someone didn't think enough about this possibility. The rule is, if you can't design some physical "trick" into the part (so that it can't go in backwards, or upside-down) then you stamp "top" or "left" onto the part. I guess they don't teach this in engineering schools anymore.
I mean for the price, I think what it offers is a good deal.
FYI: my opinion . . . two litres down on the oil would be worse for the 2.0T (turbo's are much more sensitive to ANYTHING wrong with the oil). :shades:
As for the dealer, find out what training THE convertible top technician has, and ask for customer references. The one in Evanston, IL can get the problem solved, but it has taken multiple visits and multiple days on each visit. And my EOS only has 9000 miles on it. And Lake Michigan is NOT salt-water.
Anyone owning this engine should read up on "Recommended oil for turbos" . . . very enlightening. Basically, turbos produce lots more heat than any other engine, they like CLEAN oil, and they like the proper VOLUME of oil (they don't like even a quart low) . . . and you might re-think the 5,000 mile oil-change interval, besides using only the best 100% synthetic oil available. But you should read up on this yourselves, and don't take an old hot-rodder's word for it. :shades:
My current frustration is these windows. They appear ice and snow free however they will not close (typically remain open about 1.5 inches), sometimes they will close, sometimes one will close and the other not. This car creaks and groans terribly in cold weather yet I was assured that this was a great car for winter. Also the trunk lid only opens if it is not too cold out.
Just to note, as in a few other posts, I did have leaking, quite seriously, from my windows. It took 2 trips to get it repaired however it is now winter and I cannot test their work.
I love to drive the car in the summer but it has been nothing but a pain, so far, in the winter.
I'm close to placing an order for a 2010 Eos.
Read the owner's manual! it reminds all of us suckers to check the oil EVERY Fillup! My mom's 1965 Buick doesn't burn as much as my German beast!
I'd like to know what kind of roof-gasket treatment they use at your dealer. I've used Armor-all on the roof gaskets and it works well, but not perfectly (occasional peeps).
I live in Columbus, OH and am currently driving my car to my local dealer about once a week for the exact same window problem. Of course when I get there, they can never seem to "duplicate the problem". It is, however, giving them an adaption error code when they hook it up to the computer. This has been an ongoing problem for me for months now, and only seems to happen on days when the temp drops below freezing.
This is only the first of a long string of problems I have had with this car. If anyone were seriously considering purchasing an EOS, I would definitely research before doing so. While it is fun to drive in the summer, the aggravation during winter months far supercedes the fun.
April
A slightly larger, more luxurious coupe cabriolet,
see more on topspeed.com
The roof is squeaky in cold weather until the car warm up, after that does not make any noise.
I keep my ice scraper in the trunk, and so far, it hasn't frozen shut on me.
I bought my EOS in July 2009 and LOVE IT!!!
Unfortunately someone on the assembly line (VW tells me) in portugal left a shim used in the assembly process inside my roof. This shim came loose and caused all kinds of havoc to the inner workings of the top. It's a damn shame because the top had worked flawlessly up until that point with no rattles and NO leaks whatsoever...
Now my baby eos is in the shop. I am fortunate that I am being taken care of by one of the best VW dealers in the US (Donaldson's VW in Sayville, NY). They apologized for the problem and assured me that my roof would be repaired in a couple of days at no cost to me, they even gave me a routan as a loaner.
I love my Eos, and as long as the top gets fixed I will continue to be happy with it.
LOVE THIS CAR!!! LOVE IT!!!