GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali

larry91 · August 2001

I agree with u 100% on the steering wheel.

One would think, logically, that they would incorporate some of the new features that r available in the Envoy, in the Denali. BUT, I wouldn't want to bet on it. I thought they would have some of these options in the 2002, but it doesn't seem like they will put them in the Denali.

My question, what r they waiting for??

And Debster, once again, I have had three vehicles with aftermarket sunroofs; a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, kept it 5 1/2 years and the only problem i didn't have with the vehicle, was the sunroof, a 1999 Tahoe, kept it 3 years, still no problems of any kind, and i used it all year long.

KThomp100 · August 2001

Just wondering what color combination everybody has bought. I really like the garnet red metallic, but wonder what everybody else chose and why.

Thanks

Possible Future Denali buyer

Current:

1999 Black Lexus GS 300
2001 Black GMC Sierra C3

heatwave3 · August 2001

Kthomp100: I bought a Garnet Red Denali XL with the neutral interior. Really like the look. The only chnage I have made to the exterior is that I swapped out the Ruby Red GMC logo which really didn't look good against the Garnet. I replaced it with a billet aluminum GMC logo.

larry91 · August 2001

I have asked this question before, and have not as yet received a definitive answer. If anyone experienced this same problem, and has had it resolved, I would really appreciate hearing from u and find out what the resolution was, thanks.

Two senarios,
#1.....I am listening to the cd player and turn it off by the use of the ON /OFF button on the radio, then I turn of the ignition. If I then turn the ignition on, turn the radio on, I get the last radio station I was listening to and not the CD I was just playing. This is not how my other radio's worked.

#2..... I turn the radio off by shutting off the IGNITION, without turning the radio off using the ON / OFF button as in #1. When I return, it goes back to the CD I was listening to when i turned the vehicle off.

Does anybody know which is the correct method. This is my second radio and if it is not designed to work as in #1, I want to stop bugging the dealer.

Thanks

djshifley · August 2001

First of all, great forum. I t helped in my decison to buy an 01 Deanli (not XL)

larry91-
my radio will go back to the cd I was listening to in both of your scenarios.

Dan

larry91 · August 2001

then I must still have the problem, this is my third radio...
I appreciate the response.

dandel · August 2001

We're currently looking very seriously at buying a Denali XL. What are people's opinions on the overall ride and cabin quietness of the Denali XL, particularly when compared to a Suburban. Does GM better noise insulate a "Denali-ized" Suburban? Are there any substantive differences in the Denali suspension, compared with an autoride equipped Suburban? Is the ride, particularly with respect to vibration, bounce, and jitter, better than that of a Suburban? Does the autoride actually make a palpable difference, either in ride or handling?

Thanks in advance,

Dan

heatwave3 · August 2001

dandel: I own a Denali XL and compared it to a higher end Sub. I think you'll find little difference in the handling if the Sub has autoride. IMO the autoride with self-leveling is a feature you would definitely want, particularly if you frequently load up the vehicle or do any towing.

The nice thing about the DXL ride is that you make no sacrifices to gain the AWD such as turning radius while gaining alot of very nice benefits, such as the 6.0L engine, AWD, heated rear seats, radio controls on the steering wheel, 17 inch wheels, 250watt Bose sound system, a very attractive grill with focussed beam headlights, matching running boards, Michelin X-Terrain tires and a few other "goodies" that aren't even offered as options on a fully loaded Sub.

larry91 · August 2001

Heatwave, don't forget the 6 disk cd changer and the on board computer, not available on the Sub.

The ride is superb, no wind noise, feels like u are in a Luxury sedan, not a Truck. I had a 99 Tahoe that i sold to my daughter, wheneven she drives the Denali XL she raves about how much better it is than the Tahoe.

I have some fit and finish complaints, but no vehicle is perfect and I guess these problems, tho a nuisance and time consuming, going back and forth to the dealer, are minor.

I was originally going to buy the Sub 2500 because I wanted the 6.0 engine, when I looked at the Denali XL, it was love at first sight and I bought it on the spot, got a lot more than I bargained for and am happy.

Would I buy it again, Yes. Good Luck

mbclk430 · August 2001

I purchased my xl on Jan 30th. Ride is superb for a vehicle of this size (or a car for that matter). I traded in a '97 BMW 528i. I only miss it a little (lol). I love this big rig.......my only complaint is that my headrests continue to come undone and my dealer has been mistakenly odering the replacement ones for the past 3 months. Good luck!

larry91 · August 2001

Rest assurred u are not alone, my headrests also continue to come undone. The two they fixed have remained in tack, they were fixed by the technician, at the shop. Let's see what happens next.

badger149 · August 2001

I have a 2001 Yukon SLT. Fully loaded with sunroof. I bought it in October of 2000. My question is can I upgrade to the automatic climate control just by switching the units out, or is it more complicated than that. Also I have a extra amp that I would like to put in just to power the sub for a little more bass, any suggestions?? I love the truck just should have gotten a little more for the money.

larrys7 · August 2001

Anyone having wind noise around your windshield - GM service will take trim adhesive & glue your trim to the windshield - Just had it done to my 01 YDXL. Some people says it is the hood protector. It is NOT... A little adhesive & Fixed!!!.

Just finished a couple trips 2000/900 miles. Computer showed 18.8 average on IL interstate & 16.7 average on MO two lane highway in the hills. I have ran 87-93 octane & 87 octane does just fine. No difference with a tank of 93 except cost factor. My 97 burb did best with the higher octane & proved out with 19mpg on 87 octane up to 23mpg with the 93 octane. Next trip I plan to check mpg at the pump to double check the computer.

2002 YDXL - My local dealer ordered one in for me and arrived two weeks ago. Other than the onstar antenna between the windshield & sunroof (I think that looked ugly) - I found no other changes. I have not sold my 01, so I let him dealer trade it. The 02 unit did not have a window sticker to double check for any other changes.

brown31 · August 2001

1. Does anyone know if the 2002 wil exclude the auto climate control with the sunroof?

2. I've read of some getting a solid aluminum billet GMC badge to replace the red one on the front grill. Where are you finding them?

3. Does anyone know if the Bose CD player will play CD-R and CD-RW discs?

Thanks for any help,
John

larry91 · August 2001

Yes, the Bose unit will play CD-R and CD-W disks

Sorry, can't help u on the other questions

brown31 · August 2001

Can anyone tell me how the Bose stereo system is in the 2001 Denali? Is it a good system, good sound, etc.?

Thanks,
John

larry91 · August 2001

In my opinion, it's not as good as some of the aftermarket systems. I had a much better system in my Tahoe, but it also cost me around $3000.00 several years ago and was moved to two new vehicles.

The Bose is good enuf for me, I would not replace it. Besides, it ties into too many things to make changing it an easy chore. Example, the controls on the steering wheel and the fact that the Onstar goes thru the radio's speakers.
I have had passengers in the rear remark how clear and good it soundz.

debster72 · August 2001

Hi everyone. I was going to place an order for a 2002 denali, trading in my 2000 z71 tahoe. I investigated changes for 2002 and found only 3 miner ones; 1.child seat belt, 2.steering housing upgrade and 3. I forgot??. No new colors either. I made a deal for $500 over invoice - pretty good I thought. Well, I ended up purchasing a dark green 2001 on the lot for $1500 below invoice!!!! (Saved over 2000 bucks) I am having an aftermarket ASC sunroof installed and am going to two-tone the exterior paint (GREEN ABOVE WITH DARK GOLD BELOW) - all for less than the 2002 would have cost me. I decided on the aftermarket sunroof from the feedback I received on this site (like keeping the rear climate controls and the auto-close feature)- Thanks Larry91 & Heatwave3.

THIS TRUCK IS AWESOME. I have owned 5 tahoes and an lt extended silverardo PU. - NO comparision. I love the autoride suspension - rides like a caddy and the bose sound system is great. I love all the little extra amenities inside and out.

Heatwave3 - where did you get the GMC billet aluminum logo - does it just pop on and off? Can we get one for the back logo also?

Thanks everyone - happy trails---------:)

Debster72

larry91 · August 2001

on your new purchase, soundz great, Enjoy
Larry91
Like the sound of the two tone color, perhaps u could post a pic of it. I was thinking about doing that also but didn't know what to paint the second color

heatwave3 · August 2001

brown31:

1) I don't believe the 2002 DXL includes climate control for the rear with a factory sunroof, however I think they have provided a rear module with manual controls when the sunroof is factory ordered (the module was not available on 2001).

2) I ordered my GMC Billet logo from Empire sports at <http://empiremotorsports.com/Html%27s/Exterior%20Misc%20Accessories.html>. It looks very sharp against the Denali grill. Its a little involved but nothing the average guy can't handle with some basic tools. Its installed over the factory black plastic background after removing the factory ruby red GMC logo.

3) The CD changer definitely handles CD-R cds. And for my ears the Bose system in the DXL is excellent and on par with the sound system in my 740iL, which is saying alot given the volume of space in the DXL and the quality of BMW's sound system.

Hope this helps.

joe_jensen · August 2001

I recently had a complete braking failure with my 2001 Yukon XL. Please look at the thread in the SUV forum and respond if you've had a similar failure...joe
joe_jensen "Brake Failures on GM Fullsize SUVs?" Aug 28, 2001 8:13am

lalane · August 2001

I think I'm starting to hear this noise up around the windshield myself. Although, mine sounds like gravel/sand hitting the windshield going about 65-70 Mph, did yours sound like that??? In getting it fixed, was that covered under the warranty??? Like to hear from you.

Lalane

larrys7 · August 2001

John,
Contact your Service Manager at the closest GM dealer & they should fix that for you. Your windshield will need to be DRY !!! & should only take about 5 minutes to fix the problem. Different winds & different speeds 65-70 was where I heard the noise. Good Luck... Larry

jgmilberg · August 2001

I remember some of you having a problem with cold air on the passenger side of the truck in the winter months. GM has issued a TSB that deals with the repair of this problem.

I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB. I am posting it for those with "problem" dealers that do not like looking things up. It's all here for you to print and take with you to the dealers.

Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
Seal) #01-01-37-008

Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

2002 Cadillac Escalade

Condition

Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.

Cause

Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.

Correction

Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.

Important

Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
5.Lower the hood.
6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
module.
11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:

Important

It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
19.Lower but do not close the hood.
20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten

Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

21.Raise the hood.
22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.

Important

Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.

24.In

larry91 · August 2001

Just following up re the radio problem...
Just got my third new radio and it must have been the charm, it now works properly. Thanks

safe1 · August 2001

Larry, did you get the radio's manufacture date on the now working unit? I'm to schedule replacement of my problem radio (it is the radio, not the changer too?) next week. My dealer rep says they can't be sure if the new unit will solve the problem without knowing the date of manufacture. Of course that means disassmbly of the dash, etc. I'd appreciate your follow-up.
Thamks

djshifley · August 2001

Glad to hear it! (no pun intended) I am hoping I wont have to deal with the radio problem.

How many of you have had the warm/cold passenger side problem. I travel solo alot in mine so I usually dont have any one to complain

Dan

larry91 · August 2001

No, I didn't get the manufacture date, I left the truck and the dealer called me when it was finished, he wasn't sure how he was going to solve the problem when i dropped it off. He called the tech center and they must have told him to switch the radio. It was definitely NOT the CD player.

Because it was my third or forth time back, we tried a cd in the radio of a new vehicle, it worked, so the dealer took that radio out of the new Denali and put it in mine, happily, it is working great.They were not willing to make the switch of the radio out of a new vehicle on my earlier visits.

I believe there was a problem with the early Bose radios, and with my luck, i got one.

lalane · September 2001

When the radio/cd is cold (initial startup), I get this static/popping/scratchy sound coming out of my passenger side rear door speaker. I was able to isolate the speaker using the fade/balance buttons. After the radio warms up, it tends to go away. It almost sounds like a loose or pinched speaker wire grounded to chassis. Anyone experience this or have any thoughts????

Thanks
Lalane

biffer45 · September 2001

my sound went out completely and first the switched out my head unit, that didn't last so upon further checking they found that the cords running under the door jams had come loose and were frayed and thus cut off the sound.

larry91 · September 2001

I think this is the problem. In the Bose system, each speaker has its own amplifier built into the individual speaker. I would say, if they gave u a new speaker, it would solve your problem.

I had a similiar problem with the Bose speaker in another vehicle.

Good Luck,
larry

rootbeer13 · September 2001

I'm in the market for one of these and was wondering what the price everyone is getting. Most dealers I've seen are quoting 500-1000 above invoice.

lalane · September 2001

Every morning I allow my engine to "warmup" for about 2-3 minutes before hitting the freeways. Yesterday I heard this high pitched intermitting chirping sound coming from the engine. And it was chirping to the rhythm of the fan belts. I'm going to let the dealer check it out tonight. But has anyone experience this and should I worry????

larry91 · September 2001

Don't worry, it's the chirping of the serpentine belt, all of them are prone to that problem. If u are Lucky, it will happen LATER than SOONER. The dealer will probably either lube it or replace it. When it comes time for u to replace it they cost about $100.00 - 125.00..

debster72 · September 2001

I just had my aftermarket ASC sunroof installed in my 2001 Denali. The sunroof is awesome, very sleek, auto close, vent, one touch open/close, programmable etc. However, for those of you that have had an ASC installed, how did they finish off the headliner? The ceiling is obviously lower (i tend to bump my head getting in) and the climate control for the rear sits lower. The rear unit also seems to shake or vibrate more than before. It seems to be floating up there. Also the rear part of the liner just kind-of hangs there - its tight (now) but it is not affixed to any cushioning material like before. Is this normal for aftermarket roofs. I love the sunroof, but had hoped that the final installation would look exactly like factory. - Maybe I'm too picky. They did a great job around the glass opening and the liner opening edges are pretty smooth. Just wondering about other installations. Will have it two-toned next week -polo green over gold - will post pic when done.

Thanks

Deb

debster72 · September 2001

At the rear end of the sunroof headliner (when in open position) the cloth just hangs there and then at the rear end where the glass stops it is stuck back onto the cushioning underneath. This is where it looks tacky in my opinion. Is there any way to fix this that you know of or should I ask my installer.

Deb

heatwave3 · September 2001

debster: No loose edges or fabric on my install. No loose module either. Can't speak for the difference from before the install as I never saw the vehicle before it went to the aftermarket installer.

If its less that perfect, I would definitely take it back to the dealer. Tha's the main reason I chose to have the dealer handle the install install of taking delivery first. The dealer will have much greater leverage on the installer than you and should respond promptly to ensure you are satisfied. The last thing a dealer wants is an aftermarket install resulting in consumer dings to their satisfaction survey results.

larry91 · September 2001

to the dealer. My aftermarket unit is beautiful. The liner is tight and the rear A/C controls are "Firmly" affixed to the top. Looks and fits exactly like the factory. All of my three aftermarket sunroofs were just as nice or nicer than the factory install. Someone messed up and I would take it back to the dealer and complain and MAKE them fix it to your satisfaction!!!!
larry

debster72 · September 2001

Larry91 and heatwave3 - thanks for your input. For 1200 bucks I thought it would be perfect too. I don't know how they can fix it though. The sunroof slides under the rear ac unit above the cloth, so how can it be attached firmly - to what? Does yours have a brace inside. Mine doesn't move alot or anything but it seems like there's very little support above it. Is this how yours are? Also you know how the headliner is molded to the contours on the ceiling cushioning, well in mine it looks like they just pulled the liner down to accommodate the sunroof in the back behind then ac unit. Above the second row seats the liner becomes molded again but at this point where it re-attaches' to the molding its not even straight. I hope they can fix it to my satisfaction. How's does yours slide under the liner? Did they have it slide under the cushioning or did they simply do a better job of pulling the liner down. Any pics would be helpful. Thanks again, I do love having the roof and rear ac - wouldn't be happy without either at this point.

Debster

larry91 · September 2001

AHHHHHHHHHH, I have a Denali XL, soundz like u have the Denali/Yukon. That could be the difference, I have never seen one installed on the regular Denali. However, I also have a 1999 Tahoe, with an after market installed sunroof, with rear controls, and it is tight, no sags.

Take it back to the dealer, tell them you are not happy with the installation, and let them worry about getting it fixed properly. It DEFINITELY should not be sloppy loose.
Larry

blackmagic1 · September 2001

lalane,

I had the same chirping sound that kept getting worse and worse. Finally, the vehicle would not start. The battery was dead. The chirping turned out to be a bad alternator bearing. The volt gauge was correct the entire time because the system was discharging to compensate for the overcharging and/or vice versa. It ended up destroying the battery.

The dealer replaced the the alternator and the battery. They did not have the idler/tension pulley for the serpentine belt in stock to replace it before a trip we were taking. The chirping sound came back. The dealer replaced the pulley and no problems for the past 4,000 miles.

I don't know if this had anything to do with it, but our head lights would dim and flicker periodically. The dealer contacted the tech. center and they replaced or installed some type of relay or surge switch between the alternator and the main power supply. There is no official TSB yet, just an unofficial alert. From what I gathered, some vehicles have the part and others don't. I guess this is GM's attempt to save another two bucks per vehicle.

larry91 · September 2001

Unfortunately, that soundz like the General.
But, is there any PERFECT vehicle? I think they all pull the same stunts to save money

blackmagic1 · September 2001

I didn't mean for the end of my last comment to sound like a disgruntled consumer.

Any vehicle is going to have a few glitches and a good dealer makes that only a minor inconvenience.

This still is by far the best daily driver / tow vehicle there is!!! (Well, maybe if the Escalade came in an XL.) And I just keep saying no to my neighbor who wants to trade for his brand new Powerstroke Excursion.

larry91 · September 2001

your neighbor for wanting to trade, I haven't read a favorable article about the Excursion anywhere. It looks Great, but rides and handles terribly. I drove two of them, one with a diesel, UGH!

kikinj · September 2001

1st question... when changing the oil in the Denali XL, how many quarts should you put in? Can't find anywhere in the book where it tells you.

2nd question... any of you find that you have to add a quart of oil every so often? We've had our DXL for 2 months, husband changed the oil a couple weeks ago. Drove from NJ to VA this weekend, day after we got there check engine oil light came on, it was down to the "add" mark. When my husband changed the oil it definitely was above the add mark. So we put a quart in, then checked it before the drive home, and it seemed to be lower than it was after we put the quart in, but not down to the "add" mark. Drove back from VA today, just checked it and it's still at the same spot as it was before we left. My husband thinks maybe he just didn't add enough oil when he changed it (he put 5 quarts in).

Thanks!

jgmilberg · September 2001

My Yukon XL 6.0L takes 6 QTS. Look it up in the owners manual in the index, it will be in the capacities section. I have not lost/used/burned any oil at all in the last six months, and have 13,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3500 miles, and I am going to switch to synthetic on the next one later this week.

larry91 · September 2001

if u change every 3500 miles?

larry91 · September 2001

After u change the oil, U should run the engine for a few seconds and let the oil settle, then check it again and add if necessary.

biffer45 · September 2001

was the chiirping the tension adjuster or the alternator bearing?

lalane · September 2001

Blackmagic1,
Thanks for your inputs. I just got my DXL back from the dealer after leaving it with them over the weekend and claims that I had a defective serpentine belt, which was replaced. But your story is starting to give me concerns, because you said the problem seemed to have been the alternator bearing which was replaced, then you took your trip and the chirping came back!?! So the idler / tension pulley was replaced. And the chirping was eliminated?? So was it the idler/tension causing the problem. Please clarify.....Thanks

Lalane

GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali

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