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2008 Cadillac CTS

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Comments

  • rcantwellrcantwell Member Posts: 77
    Just got my new issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines magazine. It has a pretty good picture of the 2009 CTS Coupe and the CTS-V in it. Don't have it with me right now, but Ibelieve it said the coupe might not be available until 2010. CTS-V has about 150 more HP than the old one. Hard to imagine that much power in this car.
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,192
    I rented a 2008 CTS last week. Nearly new – with less than 2,000 miles.

    I am pretty sure it was a ‘base’ V6 ( not the DI 304HP version ) and it was a decent car, certainly. I put well over 400 miles on it.

    Here are a few of my impressions of that CTS:

    The V6 gave the impression of working pretty hard as I drove ( alone ) from San Diego to over 4,000’ on my way inland, to Desert Palms. I expect that the optional engine would have helped, certainly – but would still not have been enough for me. But I expected that.

    My biggest disappointment with the CTS’s drivetrain was actually the trans. I have heard \ read much about how great the 6L50 is in the CTS. My Corvette has a 6L80. I drive mine nearly 100% in “S” & manumatic mode. 2 things about the CTS trans. drove me nuts – to the point that after the first 50 miles or so, I never used that mode again.

    Thing 1: In my Corvette, once in a gear ( fourth or fifth or sixth, for example, on the freeway ) it will NOT downshift without a manual request. Ever. The CTS will downshift based on throttle position – even in ‘manual’ mode. Often shifting down one or 2 or 3 gears. Weird. And not ‘manual’, by my definition. Not exactly sure what GM is thinking here – though I have experienced something similar in a couple of BMW 3s, with their Steptronic automatic.

    Thing 2: If accelerating at ( or close to ) WOT, commands to upshift are ignored. Again, my Corvette will do as told. And again, I have seen this behavior in BMW 3s. Weird. Both these odd ( to me ) choices in the programming of the automatic are counter-intuitive to me. And I dislike them both. A lot.

    When driven like a luxury car ( the fun portion of my trip, with my Daughter ) the CTS was fine. When I tried to drive it like a Sport Sedan – no dice. Would not work, for me.

    The suspension handled the surface street driving with my Daughter in & around San Diego, La Jolla and north through Del Mar to Cardiff reasonably well. I expect that it had the base FE1 suspension – and it definitely had Michelins that were biased ( much ) more toward ride than handling. Again as expected.

    On the highway portions of my driving, I was not as impressed – with either the ride or handling. The concrete slab portions of the San Diego area freeways were challenging – and the grooves caused some minor ‘wandering’. The CTS did not seem to have quite the “I know where straight ahead is” feel that I like at 70 +/-. With the tire pressures at 34 ( cold ) the botts dots were absorbed well.

    The ( rather steep w/many switchbacks ) descent into Palm Desert was handled reasonably well.

    And the CTS-v will likely be much more money than I am interested in spending, right now.

    I did not test drive a CTS – partly because it became clear that it would simply not have the acceleration & torque I am seeking. And the one time I did decide to test drive one, I stopped at the local BMW store & drove a 335i first. And that would not have been fair – so I cancelled that drive.

    Not a bad car – but so far as purchase: Not my cuppa tea.
    - Ray
    Glad some here are finding the CTS rewarding to drive . . .
    2022 X3 M40i
  • lonestar2lonestar2 Member Posts: 3
    Since you're a corvette owner and obvious car enthusiast, you should try the top CTS. I understand they're not in the rental fleets, but if you have time, go back to the dealer & se if you can drive a DI, FE3 set up. Along with the PS2's, it just might put a smile on your face. You may not be able to log 400 miles, but hopefully long enough to get a true feel of that car's personality.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Also no matter which options you get neither the CTS or the Beamer are a Corvette. You need to step back and give it another chance with a different prospective.
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,192
    CTS quarter mile times [ DI \ 304HP ]
    C+D = 14.6 @ 97
    R&T = 14.5 @ 98.2

    Currently, to be \ to feel rewarding to me, in the acceleration department, I really “need” something quicker than 14.0. While I certainly did not expect “Corvette level” acceleration ( or anything else, dynamically ) even the DI \ 304HP version would just not be quick enough. For me. YMMV.

    C+D’s recent ‘Short Take Road Test’ of the CTS w/the base engine:

    “Down 46 horses and 20 pound-feet on the DI engine, the indirectly injected base mill still brings a hearty portion of power with 258 horsepower and 253 pound-feet of torque. With the test gear strapped on, our six-speed automatic CTS managed a 7.0-second 0-to-60-mph romp en route to a 15.4-second quarter-mile at 91 mph. The more powerful uplevel engine (with a six-speed manual) achieves the same marks in 5.8 and 14.6 seconds at 97 mph.”

    And: “From the driver's seat, an extra 1.2 seconds in a full-throttle blast to 60 are glaringly obvious, but in more measured driving, the difference between the two engines is purely statistical. Both sound fantastic for V-6s, both pull hard all the way to their 7000-rpm redlines without noticeable straining, and both have sufficient power for commuter duty.”

    http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/high_performance/performance_files- _tested_by_c_d/2008_cadillac_cts_short_take_road_test

    The ‘problem’ for me is that I am certain that I would miss that acceleration – in my [ um ] ‘spirited’ driving. And in a car weighing close to 4,000 pounds, I also strongly prefer the relatively effortless acceleration at less than WOT that is typically provided by a V8 with ( much more ) torque. But that’s just my personal preference. C+D refers to a lack of “carefree passing power” in the base engine. I’d second that. And the upcoming CTS-v appears to be the only V8 CTS on the horizon. [ sigh ]

    Again, I want to be clear here, I mean absolutely no disrespect to the CTS. A mid-14 second quarter mile capable sedan is likely all anyone actually needs. In fact, a mid-15 second quarter mile sedan like the CTS with ‘base engine’ is likely just fine – for most people, most of the time. I only use the term “need” here in the context of what I require for entertainment purposes.

    The CTS does have gizmos. It has interesting interior styling. The exterior styling, I find much more attractive than the previous generation CTS. It is just not the car for me, at this time.

    And even with a V8, the trans. [mis-]behavior I referred to above would drive me nuts. I am hoping that this is unique to the Caddy & the 6L50 – as my ‘short list’ includes one with a 6L80.

    I am hoping that I will be able to buy a sport sedan with the kind of acceleration I am looking for ( not Corvette acceleration, I readily acknowledge ), and a few amenities, for less than the price of a BMW 550i.

    We shall see . . .
    - Ray
    Still In Search Of . . .
    2022 X3 M40i
  • plektoplekto Member Posts: 3,738

    Thing 1: In my Corvette, once in a gear ( fourth or fifth or sixth, for example, on the freeway ) it will NOT downshift without a manual request. Ever. The CTS will downshift based on throttle position – even in ‘manual’ mode. Often shifting down one or 2 or 3 gears. Weird. And not ‘manual’, by my definition. Not exactly sure what GM is thinking here – though I have experienced something similar in a couple of BMW 3s, with their Steptronic automatic.

    Thing 2: If accelerating at ( or close to ) WOT, commands to upshift are ignored. Again, my Corvette will do as told. And again, I have seen this behavior in BMW 3s. Weird. Both these odd ( to me ) choices in the programming of the automatic are counter-intuitive to me. And I dislike them both. A lot.


    If you are such an enthusiast, you deserve to treat yourself to the available manual. It totally changes the character of the car. It's quicker to rev, snappier between gears(because you can rev it harder), and has 0 junk in the way. Even the base model with manual is, IMO, better than the DI with automatic, it's such a difference.
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,192
    “If you are such an enthusiast, you deserve to treat yourself to the available manual.”

    Bursitis means that anything with a clutch would no longer be possible, for me . . .

    All I am really asking \ expecting here is that the maunmatic function do as I say. Unless drivetrain damage will result, shift when I tell you – and do not otherwise shift.

    Seems reasonable.

    And I know that GM can do this – has done this.

    - Ray
    Guilty of being an enthusiast . . .
    2022 X3 M40i
  • sls002sls002 Member Posts: 2,788
    If I understand what you said about your Corvette, it is possible to come to a stop in manual mode in 6th gear and then start off in 6th gear. Somehow I think that will eventually cause damage to the torque converter and transmission from overheating the oil.

    My SRX has the 6 speed automatic (V8) and will not upshift if the current speed to deemed too low. It will downshift as the speed decreases. If you demand a lot of power in 6th it will downshift (probably to 3rd or 4th). What I would like is for it to return to the higher gear automatically but once it downshifts automatically you have to upshift manually. I use the normal D mode except for holding on steep hills usually.
  • rayainswrayainsw Member Posts: 3,192
    “If I understand what you said about your Corvette, it is possible to come to a stop in manual mode in 6th gear and then start off in 6th gear. Somehow I think that will eventually cause damage to the torque converter and transmission from overheating the oil. “

    To clarify:
    In manual mode, the trans. in my Corvette does downshift as one slows.
    All the way to second gear.
    But.
    It downshifts only when the road speed would result in the engine RPM being too low \ slow to effectively pull the weight of the car, even with full TCC unlock.
    You are certainly correct in that with sixth gear ( a second overdrive ) and a final drive ratio of 2.56:1, starting in sixth would not be a good thing. It is perfectly happy staring in first ( obviously ), second or third gear.

    It will never downshift based only on throttle position.
    And it will always respond to an upshift command, again assuming that road speed makes such a shift ‘reasonable’.
    - Ray
    Who did test drive a BMW ( 535i ? ) in the early 1990s that did NOT downshift when slowing – resulting in rather slow acceleration, until I realized what was happening . . .

    Edit . . .
    From the C6 manual:
    “Pg 2-29

    The vehicle speeds required for Manual Paddle Shift up-shifts depend on several vehicle inputs, which will vary the allowed up-shift speed by a few mph (km/h).
    • Up-shifts to fourth (4) gear require approximately
    22 mph (35 km/h)
    • Up-shifts to fifth (5) gear require approximately
    28 mph (45 km/h)
    • Up-shifts to sixth (6) gear require approximately
    41 mph (65 km/h)”

    These are approximately the speeds at which the trans will downshift, when slowing the vehicle. From sixth to fifth at around 40 MPH, etc.
    2022 X3 M40i
  • sls002sls002 Member Posts: 2,788
    I see. My SRX in 6th does about 40 MPH per 1000 RPMs. The engine likes to run at about 1200 RPMs minimum in any gear, but the torque converter may be slipping too.
  • taxesquiretaxesquire Member Posts: 681
    I had heard that the manual transmission is kind of clunky and not easily maneuverable. I can't find a dealer that has one to test-drive (not that I'm in the market now anyway), but if your experience differs, please explain.
  • 91199119119911 Member Posts: 54
    The color code is on the fwd part of the driver door pillar. Just set down in the drivers seat with door open move your left hand to your hip pocket location, now move the hand outboard, there you will find the color code.

    As far as the side molding, I stressed over this for a couple of days, after buying a 2008 model. I went on line and found several places to get them custom fit....after several questions to the manufacture (aftermarket) I purchased a set from BrightTrim, you can find them at WWW.BrightTrim.com or call Ben Thurmond at 972-442-4619. By the way, I have over 40 yrs experience at body and fender work including show cars and I found the moldings they sell to be as good in quality as any you will find. I installed mine yesterday, took about an hour. They look great and the paint match is perfect. I used 1 1/4" width.

    Good Luck
    Chuck
  • mthmth Member Posts: 18
    Hey Chuck,

    I still don't see. I see the tire pressure sticker, I see the date code GVWR sticker and that is all on the b pillar.

    Nothing on the passenger side, nothing in the trunk. I'll pull the car out of the garage and look under the hood again later.

    As for the body side moldings, my wife insists she doesn't want them. I cringe every time we park the car somewhere other than our garage!

    Thanks for the reply.

    Matt
  • kdawg69kdawg69 Member Posts: 9
    I just visited the Cary Auto Mall here in NC. I went to see the new Jaguar XF. I came away disappointed. It does look very nice, a huge improvement on the S-Type. But when I stepped back from it, the overall shape was a little bland. Not nearly as sexy and curvy as the XK.

    Then I crossed the street to the Caddy dealer. I had never liked the previous CTS, just on style. The profile was awkward and slabby and looked like it had been designed by an entirely different team from the team that did the front and back. And the center stack was terrible.

    The new CTS has a great shape, just the right amount of fender bulge. I like the combination of straight edges and curves. The Performance wheels were gorgeous. I still don't like the cattle-catcher front end, but I can live with it. The back end is a little cluttered, but not too bad.

    The interior, here in black and wood, was gorgeous. Just the right size for me at 6'0". The only bit I didn't like was the silver plastic on the center stack. It looks cheap and I don't think it will wear wll. I think real aluminum is in order here.

    I took a DI Performance for a quick drive. The pick-up was more than enough for me. I drive a Miata and a BMW 325 with sport package so I have high demands for handling. The Caddy didn't disappointment. The steering was nicely balanced with crisp turn-in and the suspension was outstanding in it's ability to manage the car's weight without being harsh on the highway. It felt like a good deal less than 4k lbs. I was very impressed at the CTS's ability to perform without giving up refinement and highway ride. My only complaint from the drive is that the Performance tires were fairly loud.

    The CTS is now on my short list for a new sedan this fall or next spring.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Tires aren't a big problem. I always take my new cars to Discount Tire which is like a Bell tire and they pretty much give me what the tires are worth on what I want. Makes for a good deal plus for $4 a tire I get a life time warranty for any reason. If it can't be patched then they put on a new tire without any mileage adjustment. Plus they fix all flats and rotate and rebalance anytime I want for free.
  • 91199119119911 Member Posts: 54
    Matt,

    Sorry I mislead you...the paint code is on the bottom side of the spare tire cover in the trunk. Pull the cover out,turn it upside down and there you are. If that doesn't get you the paint code, let me know.

    When I answered your request I was still living with my 05 Lexus RX330.

    As far as the side molding, it does cause a bit of loss to the lines of the vehicle but, so does a big ding.

    Hope this is of some help.

    Chuck
  • nathessnathess Member Posts: 11
    I finally got a "Universal Home Remote" (garage door opener) for my 2008 CTS. I wanted the unit to add to my overhead console but GM refused to sell it to me. They finally sold me an entire overhead console with the unit to replace my existing console for a cost of $450.

    GM knows how to develop poor customer relations.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I think I would have figured out another option. When I used to have a Jeep CJ the old ones where youopened the doors, pulled the plugs out the floor and hosed it out I mounted my remote in a good quality plastic zipper bad and soldered wires to the inside of the remotes contacts bought a tiny push button and mounted it to the dash very low so you didn't even see it unless you knew it was there. Would serve the same purpose without spending $450 plus install time.
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    OMG..........!! Why didnt you just get a $30.00 key fob transmitter and velcro it under your steering column? Out of sight...$30 bucks and it gets you in the gararge...:)
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    Use waxed dental floss and "work it" behind the chicklet. Pops right off. Bug N Tar remover takes off any glue safely and effeciently.
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    weird that it's not in the center.....if the car is wrecked and thats what it's for...you would think that throwing any HOOK under the car would pull it out. Wrecked is wrecked right? LOL
  • bingomanbingoman Member Posts: 373
    What if the car is mired in mud after a flood. The car isn't wrecked, you can't get under it to hook to the undercarriage and you don't want further damage.

    The thread behind the square for an eye bolt seems like a good idea to me. It's a much more secure, accessible and safer location than anything under the car.

    But I agree, it would seem that it should be on the centerline or matched on the other side.
  • sls002sls002 Member Posts: 2,788
    I think that you will find that the square lines up with beam under the body. That at least seems to be the case with my SRX. So there may be additional strength at the point where it is.
  • mtmdatlantamtmdatlanta Member Posts: 2
    Remember that this car is also intended for sale in Europe. All cars sold there have this feature. There are two reasons why it is off-center. One is that it closer to or right on the bumper support, so it is inherently stronger and better able to withstand the tow. The other reason is that all European nations use a very wide and short license plate, which is usually placed at the front of the bumper, in the middle. The tow hole cannot be obscured by the plate, so it must be assymetrical. Cars sold in Europe are sold with emergency kits, which we don't get here. My European delivery cars did come with the kits. My cars, a BMW and a Porsche, also come with tool kits, which included a tow hook. This system is quite robust, and are used on many race cars without modification for towing after crashes or other on-track problems. It's too bad they don't give us the hooks here, especially seeing how low the front spoiler is on the 2008 CTS.
  • 150mphclub150mphclub Member Posts: 316
    My Maxima and my Passat both came with tow hooks. I bet the CTS has one, too, if you know where to look.
  • mtmdatlantamtmdatlanta Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2008 CTS with DI, manual transmission, summer performance tire package, and all other options except the spare tire. I wasn't initially in the market for a new car. My other cars are a 1993 BMW M5 and a 1997 Porsche 911, both with modified and track worthy suspensions. I live in Atlanta, and lately all of the local roads have been torn up by sewer and water system repairs, not to mention the serious proliferation of speed humps and detours. While I love my other cars, the ride on our streets became intolerable for daily use, so I thought I would seek something more comfortable but still sporty, and maybe more economical to run as well.
    I first saw the CTS at our auto show one year ago, and I was impressed. It was beautiful, which I couldn't say about the current BMW's. I visited a dealer this fall, after reading many positive reviews, and the car was quite promising in person. They offered me a test drive, but it was raining and there were no sticks in stock (or apparently produced yet) so I asked them to call me when one came in. Just before Christmas (and after the Car and Driver test of the stick, which wasn't that complimentary), I got a call that a loaded stick had come in and was available for a test drive. It was black/black and had all sorts of stuff I wasn't interested in, but it drove quite well (it had the summer tire package, too) aside from a tricky clutch uptake that made smooth shifting difficult to do at times. I also thought the shifter was placed too far back on the console, but the shifter was otherwise quite nice. I decided to look at some other cars, and thought that if I did get a CTS I would probably special order it.
    There are not a lot of rear drive cars available with a stick, and I'm not wild about the styling and/or controls of the competition, but I wasn't sure about the clutch. I then found a local dealer that had THREE sticks in stock! I went to take another drive. The red one had just been traded to another dealer, but they still had a black/black and a silver/black, both totally loaded and with summer tires (are they all made this way?). I liked the silver one with the black interior better, so that's what I drove. The ride was a bit stiff at times, and I wanted to drive the FE2, but they didn't have one in stock. I then drove my M5 over the same route, and I couldn't believe how much smoother and more comfortable the CTS was. The clutch was still an issue, but I was already starting to master it. I also played with the luxury features, and decided that I kind of liked them. The dealer offered me a pretty good price right off the bat. I did some more research, and found that loaded it was still cheaper than a similarly equipped 328 (and much nicer). The dealer sharpened his pencil more, and with the "conquest cash" and 1.9% financing, it was a done deal! My first American car since 1980, and the first car I hadn't special ordered since 1990!
    So far, It has been quite nice, and my car guy friends have been impressed as well. I fixed the shifter position by moving the seat and wheel back a bit, and now the driving position is perfect. The shifter itself is very nice, with moderately short throws, reasonably positive and with low effort. It is the same as the one I drove two months earlier, not at all like Car and Driver and others described. The clutch still has an unpredictable uptake, but it is getting better. The steering is nice and meaty ( maybe the FE3 is higher effort than the others), and becomes very communicative at the limit. It handles well for it's size, and the handling really perks up when you use the Stabilitrack "Competitive Mode". The brakes are strong and fade free, and I do tend to brake late ( I have the big brakes). The acceleration is quite good, except in 6th, which is to be expected considering the long legs of that gear. My mileage so far has been between 17 and 20 mpg, which is about 3 mpg better than my other cars, and it's not broken in yet (800 miles).
    Car and Driver was right about some funny noises. The car does emit a groan and low level vibration when driven in 6th gear from 1400 to 1700 RPM while the throttle is applied. It does not happen in 5th at the same rev range and throttle position, and can be avoided by shifting later, but then the 'shift' light comes on. The automatic may be smoother, but I would still take the few warts of the manual for the extra control, performance, and fun with the stick. I do wish it had a hand brake, though. Overall, I'm very happy with the car, and it sure is pretty!
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,504
    Thanks for a very comprehensive & helpful review.

    Like you, I was looking for RWD & a manual, plus a couple of other factors that are peculiar to my situation. Sounds like you had a very pleasant outcome; I did as well, but I had to pass on the RWD to do it.

    Continued good luck & pleasure with your new car.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    OK...I can see that happening......:)
  • taxesquiretaxesquire Member Posts: 681
    Thanks for the details on the MT!!
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    OK..someone had to bring it up. No I'm not 20 years old I'm 48 but I was wondering if anyone knows of any legitamate 3.6 DI Liter minor performance upgrades available for this new engine.

    I know it's 304 HP and I have plenty of power BUT....................why not squeek out a few more if possible....right?

    I dont see K and N selling any CTS air filters...I dont see any "CHIP" makers selling any chips except for the CTS - V.......anyone know of any proven ways of gaining a few more horses?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I think it is to new. Give it a year and things will start poping up.
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    Yea right......all these aftermarket tuners think no one driving a Caddy would want a few more ponies....:) Wrong! :)
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    No that isn't it. The problem is that until they get their hands on a car it is pretty hard to build something for it and then they have to test it etc. and then find a chinese company to make it for $5 so they can sell it to you for a couple hundred bucks. I worked on future GM products before I retired and once the tooling was in the plant we spent a good 6 months or longer getting everything tuned in just so we could build test cars.
  • cptsullycptsully Member Posts: 18
    Hello All-

    I just got an Ipod for my CTS, and I seem to be having a problem with it. When I plug it in, the car audio/Nav screen displays everything properly and all, but no music comes out. Music will play when I connect using the RCA jack, but then you have to control everything using the Ipod rather than the car controls. I checked the Apple website, and I do have a 5th gen Ipod, so I don't know what the problem is...any suggestions?
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    funny stuff but true. Thanks for the inside look.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I bought my 04 Colorado just after the 05's were out and I still had a almost impossible task of finding any aftermarket wheels for it as they changed the bolt pattern etc. from the Trailblazer and this is a vehicle that I'm sure sells more than the CTS does so you would think it would have had a desent selection of wheels available a year later but it didn't. I found about 4 styles at that time but lucky for me one of them I fell for.
  • jdavis12jdavis12 Member Posts: 19
    Are you using the special split cable? If one was not provided, hound your dealer for it. I had to ask for it but many others reported receiving one with delivery. My i-pod works great - I rarely disconnect it so it is on and an audio option every time I get in.
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    True! Go figure...Hurry up and wait as they say............:) Thanks
  • arby1arby1 Member Posts: 83
    I don't have an iPod but I remember a post about a cable, in the trunk storage section, where the inflator kit is , in a bag , which you use for the iPod .
  • dfusnikdfusnik Member Posts: 10
    I've just been screwed by GM and was wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them. I went to my Cadillac dealer almost 5 weeks ago to look at a CTS. Long story short: drove it, loved it, wanted it. The dealer didn't have a car on the lot with the color and options that I wanted, nor was he able to locate one. So I gave him a $1000 deposit to order one from GM. Part of what made the deal attractive was GM's Luxury Conquest incentive. Because I'm trading in an Acura, GM was going to knock another $1000 off the price. "This is great!" was what I was thinking. My first Cadillac and my first American car in about 10 years. Cool.

    Not so cool. I received a phone call from my dealership a couple of days ago informing me that GM has decided to pull the Luxury Conquest incentive from the CTS and apply it to the STS. Which means the great deal I received when I signed the contract/order sheet is not so great anymore. In an instant, GM has renigged on their offer of $1000 for anyone trading in another luxury marque even after they have placed an order for their car. Is it just me, or does anyone else think this is an unfair business practice on GMs part? Whether I purchase the car off the lot or place an order for it from the manufacturer, any incentives offered at the time of signing should be locked in to the customer. Dropping a rebate is one thing. Pulling it back from a customer who has already ordered the car is just dirty business as far as I'm concerned.
  • jgaffney1jgaffney1 Member Posts: 41
    Call GM...I agree...........
  • rspruittrspruitt Member Posts: 13
    Sounds like the dealer may have agreed to the terms without understanding the current GM programs. If so, this is a dealer issue and not GM's issue. Bottom line- the terms of your contract apply. I wouldn't accept anything but the deal you agreed to and would start looking into another dealership. This would not only give you another perspective, but also get the attention of the dealer you are walking away from. Good luck.
  • adnanzadnanz Member Posts: 10
    Dealer agreed, dealer is responsible...even if it means they take it out of their cut. Find a new dealer if you can...the problem is that generally the GM dealers are old school, and they don't go above and beyond in service. A car is a car, the CTS is a great car but what makes the difference is how the dealer is treating me and it's service department. Hope you get what your looking for...
  • sevenfeet0sevenfeet0 Member Posts: 486
    First, you need to use the iPod cable provided by Cadillac (it should of come with the car). A normal iPod sync cable that Apple provides will not work and not allow the CTS to properly control the iPod. Also, the GM provided cable is a hydra...the 30 pin iPod connector has two connections on the other end...one is USB which the CTS uses for control of the iPod, the other is a standard 1/8 mini stereo jack for transport of the audio. Your CTS has connections in the center console for both USB and a mini-jack and the provided iPod cable plugs into both of them.
  • ajl1223ajl1223 Member Posts: 13
    Got my 2008 CTs out of the shop after 23 days..new cam and new head...2600 miles on it 4 months old.car is a lease...........now today the navigation screen went black goes to the shop tomorrow............anybody have this problem also????...........Finally go back to GM after 20 years.i probably will not go back after the lease is up
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Don't say you will by Toyota instead as the German company that makes the Nav which is used in the Lexus, Mercedes, and I hear a couple others beside GM is partly owned by T.
  • 150mphclub150mphclub Member Posts: 316
    Anyone know why constraints have been placed on these two packages.
  • ctshadafloodctshadaflood Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone out there have a ping at 20 mph with light accelaration? Even the GM Mech. is baffled. Simply because these cars do not ping. But this one is!!
    Note: using a heavy foot seems to either muffle the ping or just plain eliminate it. GM rep will follow up.
    AP
  • cptsullycptsully Member Posts: 18
    Thanks to all who replied about my iPod problem- I didn't realize I had to plug in both the USB port, AND the RCA jack. It works fine now, and sounds GREAT!

    Thanks again!

    :)
  • nathessnathess Member Posts: 11
    I purchased a set of side moldings from www.BrightTrim.com for my Crystal Red tintcoat CTS. Excellant match and took less than an hour to install. Cost about $130.
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