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Comments
(2.) Have a mechinic trouble shoot the ignition switch,make sure all contacts
are working!
I found that the problem was an internal short in the stock radio. I replaced the radio and haven't had the problem since.
works,Does the"Battery Protecter"have anything to do with electrical power for
the complete van.The "Battery Protecter"is located on the firewall behind the
Battery!
So it must be an after market thing,I guess.Anyone,any suggestion!
This system keeps the battery from being drained,if my battery drops below
10 volts,it will not reset,also I connected the right post on relay under the hood
to the left post on relay with the wire that came off battery and went to fuse box
under the dash.Everything is OK,van starts,all the lights work GREEEAAATTT !
fine after that! Take the starter to autozone and ask them to test it.
where you bought the part,some alternators can be polorized,some can"t !
under the hood. I stated early "Fuse Box Under the Dash"not so the fuse box under the hood!So Please,remember Fuse Box Under the Hood!
builds up on the outer glass/plastic !
to get to the wiring , not sure about that, check your manual!
driver side,also I unplugged the "battery reset" located on the "dog house".
The only thing I had to worry about, was the "air bags".I removed the negative
side of the battery and left it unplugged until I relocated the "positive side"
of battery wire!.I done this about 2 weeks ago,been starting my van everyday,
and no problems.All the battery guard does is when the battery voltage drops
to 10 volts it shuts off the battery completely so it will not go dead!
The problem you describe here is just like a problem I'm havine with my 2003 Astro. I noticed you posted this sometime ago. Did you find out the cause? If so, can you help me?
a solution! thx. I'll get on it this week.
Now i can't drive in freeway for more than 10 minute, if i drive in regular traffic with no radio and no AC i can make from point A to B but the Volt indicator goes down and back up. I had the car checked but the computer don't see to find the problem , battery is fine same as the alternator (I had both tested at Autozone). Thank you
I would probably still think it may be the alternator and would remove it and have it rebuilt if the mileage is at least 80k. Your description of it fluxuating leads me to think that. Hope it is of help.
In your opinion, I just find a faulty cable ( no the sparks plug ones, but the one the goes to the coil is shorting) you think that can cause the problem?.
I ll replace it this week anyway.
If this do not work I ll replace the alternator.
Thank you for your help.
problems you are experiencing ! You could try to install a ground wire from the motor block to the firewall !
I also heard the Crank Shaft Sensor, can cause a similar problem...shuts off fuel if it doesn't sense the engine turning sometimes due to a short in the wiring.
If you are getting spark from coil to distibutor but not to plugs, The suspect would be the cap and rotor or the plug wires. But, since there is no firing going on the wires are probably fine its got to be under the distibutor cap.
You can get the code read free at autozone or advance auto parts stores. I have 2 astros. 87 and 98. My 87 (175,000 mi)died a minute after starting it last december. The check engine light came on and the code read lean or rich mixture. The coolant temp sensor was bad. It had previously failed at 48,000 miles in 1991. It is hard to get to with rear a/c lines in the way, but the $7 part screws into intake manifold into the coolant passage. Van started right up and the 3 mpg mileage increase from then on suprised me. I could hear my fuel pump prime and I had spark.
Then when you drive and to press down kickdownen so switches it up, but you have to release the gas a little bit then goes into gear without any problems, and let not the gas a bit so it will knock from the engine, but then you have enough a arvtal above normal, and it feels like the engine on the way out the hood.
Hope there is someone here who can help me. And you know what I write, I'm not a whiz in English.
The fix was less than $100 dollar and it was very easy.
There are two companies that do this and give you a warranty for their work:
ASI (Automotive Scientific Inc) www.AUTOECU.com (HINT: their Ebay listings are way cheaper! http://myworld.ebay.com/ate1234)
And the other company is Module Master: http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php
You can ship it to them and still drive your vehicle. Your brakes will work just fine, but the ABS feature won't until you replace the controller. Just make sure you cover the other half of the ABS unit on your car. You'll want to protect it from debris and water.
Best of luck.
My friend and I tore into every thing. Finally I got it towed to a shop they found the wire connection to the coil damaged. It seems a Neoprene foam rubber jacketed A/C hose that curves around and runs along the right side above the Rocker cover vibrates and damages the wiring going into the connector. I bought a coil, a Ignition module from a Upull-it bone yard to confirm. I am currently dealing with the same hose taking out the wires leading into the 4wire ignition module. I found out by pushing the wires in and it started fine. I tied the A/C hose and the big wire loom together downward away from the coil area. Vibration wear is a concern. BTW check the upper Radiator hose, brother.
Not a wiz on these things at all so a bit of direction would be much appreciated. Hoping it is a, fix it my self problem and thinking electrical as is intermittent.
Any help would be really appreciated!
This one's got me stumped..Any thoughts??