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Comments
BTW: For the Safaris/Astros, it is recommended to keep above 1/4 tanks of fuel. Above 1/2 tank is best. And. park on hills facing downward. Thus, it puts less stress on their "weakly designed" fuel pumps. Works for me...
Hope this helps as well...
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Based on increase braking performance (with its ABS fuse pulled), don't think I'll every replace its ABS fuse again. Other then putting the fuse back in - when it comes time trade the vehicle in.
Hope this "hint, hint" helps....
.
Bottom line is... Defector sensor (which needs to be replaced) or the existing sensor is too "rusted up" to work properly...
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.... Basically, dirty sensor mounting surfaces cause the signal to drop out at low speeds, which fools the ABS system into thinking that it is experiencing an ABS event when it's not.
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor
Mounting Surface) #02-05-25-006A - (11/26/2002)
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor
Mounting Surface)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
This bulletin is being revised to change model information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006 (Section 05 -- Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8
km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel
speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on
the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1.. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2.. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3.. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4.. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading
should be at least 350 ACmV's.
5.. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel,
caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.
6.. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from
falling into the hub during service.
7.. Clean the speed sensor mounting surface on the hub to remove rust and
corrosion.
Important
Make sure that the sensor sits flat on the hub. If the sensor flange is
distorted, replace the sensor.
8.. Apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface prior to
sensor installation.
9.. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure
the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.
10.. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
11.. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage
while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350
ACmV's.
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I will make the switch. Thanks.
The next rain It would not start again, I pulled the dog house off and checked, Gas, good, spark not good. Removed the Distributor cap and removed the Rotor, well it had more burn marks on it than if it had been in a fire, and it was still the autozone one. It seems that the GM Dealer did not replace it...is that a way to pump more $ out of me? About a year and a half later the problem reappeared, so I removed the dog house, dist cap and the rotor was again burned and very dirty. I used the air gin and blew out the distributor and paid special attention to a recess and a hole in the bottom which was plugged. I even poked a small wire in it to see if it was open. No more problems yet, but If it does I know to replace the rotor with a genuine GM.
does not effect the performance of the vehicle any ideas?
In addition to the lights, horn and fuel pump, this will also cause the high fan position to not work properly
Mine (1995 Astro) died on the road, so I cut the two wires for the links and temporarily wired them directly to the (insulated) stud which holds the mating connector to the firewall.
I expect this is a dealer part, but it won't be the labor...
Whats the problem?
dlm1
I have the same problem it seems. No lights,no fuel pump noise, no horn, no dash lights. It will turn over fine but does not start. Now no patience. Help please, I'm getting nowhere fast with this Chilton manuel.
Your answer to the one gentleman's van was worth checking on mine but my fusable links behind the battery seem strong and in good shape.
This is my whole story, maybe you or someone else has another idea. I was driving the van early one morning and it just died; no lights, no motor, no fuel pump, no horn. I stopped, waited 10 seconds, then the lights returned by themselves and I had everything working again so I started it up and went on my way. The next day same thing happened. Third day same thing happened only I was 70 miles into a trip. Fourth day it never came back to life. It is a 94 Astro with 130k on it and looks like it could go to 200k fairly easily.
Is there a relay or circuit breaker that may be faulty and if so where?
The thing I,m most confused about is it came back 3 times so I don't think fuse, I can turn it over fine so I don't think battery, so it must be something that controls lights and fuel pump electricity. Help! Anyone!
For "good" selling price comparison for your specific area, do shop around. Try your other local auto dealers and if needed, try online sites (like auto trader sites) and do lots of web searches. Unfortunately, each specific region has their own selling range.
190,000 miles sounds like lots of miles on a van. Especially a previous business van - that might have been driven hard - to meet business "within same day" deadlines. Hopefully, it's mostly hiway miles.
For Astro / Safari van weak spots, do focus on:
- Transmissions sometimes blow and need a rebuilt. My previous van needed tranny rebuild at 75,000 miles - which cost $1,000. After the tranny was rebuilt, it ran better then factory.
- Even if you do NOT tow trailers, do install a transmission oil cooler in the Astro/Safari van. For example: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/OC-1678.html Many tranny specialists say that keeping its transmission oil "cooler" helps. Especially on those hot summer days and van is loaded with onboard cargo.
- Fuel pumps sometimes blow and need to be replaced. My buddy's Astro fuel pump blew and needed $1K to fix - including a tow to the local auto shop. I hear GM Delco fuel pumps can be bought on ebay - if you like to keep one on the shelf (sort of speaking).
- Rear axles (especially default factory 342 gearing) sometimes blow. If you can, get a RWD (2 WD) van with 373 or if towing or heavy cargo, go with 411 gearing instead. The default 342 gearing in passenger van isn't designed for lots of passenger body weight, trailer towing or lots of onboard cargo - that many business vehicles need. Next time around, I'd get an Astro/Safari with 373 gearing instead. And go with 411 gearing for hilly region.
- Vaccum rubber line (that operates cabin heater controls) often melts. $20 or so to fix it.
- Alternator (being so hot under the hood) often blows. Under $300 to replace.
- Engine oil "cooler lines" often leak and need to be replaced. GM charges way "too much" for these replacement parts. If you can, replace with 3rd pary piping. Many pipe bending shops will create better replacement piping for 1/3 the cost that GM charges.
- Front steering idler arms need to be replaced often as well. If needing to be replaced (to tighten up steering controls), go with MOOG brand idler arms and grease them during every engine oil change. Many say this MOOG brand is the best - for idler arm replacements.
- For onboard cargo, I'd buy / install Timbrens SES units. They eliminate "factory mush" up/down rear suspension and more importantly, eliminate mass rear sag. To me, the Astro/Safari design should have been built with 4 leaf springs instead of factory 3 leaf springs. Install Timbren SES units and rear suspension sag is eliminate. Especially if loaded down for business cargo. For more details, surf: http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
If the used van in question looks great, has been inspected by reliable mechanics and "feels right" to you (and is a good selling price), then its probably worth buying. Especially if its design fits your business hauling needs. After buying it, I'd install a tranny cooler for up to 5,000 lbs trailers (to make its tranny last longer), install Timbrens (to eliminate rear sag) and start using it. And, replace the other "design weak spots" IF they happen to you.
Hope this helps...
.
I have taken it to three different repair shops, the first one replaced the coil and ignition module, the next two replaced the ignition module. This has happened in the last year and 2000 miles. Any ideas?? thxs
I also have a '94 Astro but have not experienced your particular problem but I did have to replace my water pump and elected to get rid of my air conditioner for a "dummy" pulley.
Could your problem possibly be, 1)- a bearing going bad on the AC? (mine was getting hot because the AC would not let the fan belt turn the fan fast enough). Or 2)- Could the thermostat be not opening fully and needs replaced? Check by dropping it in pan of boiling water. Or 3)- Could it have another leak somewhere and be low on antifreeze? Just some thoughts.
Are you experiencing any other losses other than engine quitting?
Here's my story for you to consider. My 94 Astro would die all of a sudden with loss of horn and lights as well. After a few moments the power returned and I was able to restart and be on my way. The 4rth time it did this it was for good. I realized also my fuel pump start up noise was missing. Checked wiring, fuses, fusable links, and relays but they were all good. It turns out the problem was the firewall plug itself behind the battery with the four wires. The plug was only feeding 3 wires. The other wire was dead and was the one that fed the lights, fuel pump, and horn. I wired it up direct and it is working. Check to make sure all four lines have power. Hope this helps.
I stick the key in the ignition and it freely rotates from ACC all the way to start, but there is no reaction from the van--no dome lights, no dash lights, no starter...NOTHING.
The battery reads a littel over 18 volts.
I put the voltmeter down at the solenoid, and it is good.
The connections at the battery are good.
The terminals are clean.
I tried to jump the van using my Jeep, but the van just acts as if there is no battery. I even went so far as to disconnect the battery, and hook the jumper cables to the battery cables, but nothing.
The only thing I can think of is the cylinder where the key goes in.
Any ideas/opinions?
Note: Just because your getting 12-14 volts at the starter doesn't necessarily mean that you have a good ground. A week ground will prevent adequate amperage from reaching the starter (not the solenoid).