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Ford F-Series Electrical and Lighting Problems

greivancegreivance Member Posts: 1
in Ford
My right side break light and signal do not work 3 days after a deer ran into the right side on forth door and did some cosmetic damage to the front and rear parts of the rear quarter panel all along the bottom.
I can't be a fuse beacause the left side works.
No damage near the light, but I did notice where the muffler system connects to the body became detached. It has been reattached. Sny ideas?
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Comments

  • cctxshirlcctxshirl Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 F150 and my Door Ajar light came on and won't go off. Now I really hate to take it in for just that, but the lights won't go off in the cab and over the bed. My battery is low now although we put a charger on it. I'm thinking the battery might have been low to begin with and this had something to do with the light (strange as it may sound) because once the battery was charged up, the light went off. Anyone else have this problem? By the way, I have the original battery in it and it is over 4 years old.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Your battery is getting rather geriatric. Probably doesn't have the capcity it had when new - it gets worse when it's cold out. You might wanna think about replacing it.

    For the door ajar - take some WD-40 and spray it into the door switches. These Ford switches tend to collect sand and grit in them and they eventually start to bind up. Spray the switches and work them back and forth. Keep drowning them until the switch works all the time and the door ajar light stays off.
  • bil2303bil2303 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 F-150. The interior lights stay off when any door is opened. Also get no door ajar light when doors are opened, and opening doors doesn't turn off radio when ignition is off.
  • cctxshirlcctxshirl Member Posts: 3
    Mine was my battery of all things. We charged it up (didn't replace it just yet) and the door ajar light went off and everything else seems to be functioning well. I know I need a new battery since my truck is 4 years old and it's the original, but we tested the battery and after the charge, the cells all seem to be okay. :)
  • bil2303bil2303 Member Posts: 2
    This seems to be a problem related to the door switches, not one, but all of them. Battery seems fine.
  • trotman999trotman999 Member Posts: 1
    This worked (wd 40 on the door switchs)great. Thanks for the advice saved a day lost at the shop and a drain on the battery.
  • missiesmissies Member Posts: 1
    Last week the door ajar light stayed on (2003 - F350). I thought perhaps I had not shut the door all the way. Nope.

    Worst thing is the electric locks and the windows will not work.

    Fuses have been checked so far. Thoughts?
  • cctxshirlcctxshirl Member Posts: 3
  • mvpgriffmvpgriff Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 ford f150 king ranch with power windows and moon roof. All of a sudden no windows will work or moon roof. Looked at owners manual and saw were there was a circuit breaker 30 amp under the hood that works all windows. It's number 601. Went to ford and bought new one and installed and they still don't work. Any suggestions???
  • hwydriverhwydriver Member Posts: 4
  • hwydriverhwydriver Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 F250 Diesel that has had the alternator replaced three years ago and the batteries 3.5 years. The red battery light stays on but the gauge shows the system is charging. I switched alternators with a 2001 diesel Excursion and the light stayed on. I then switched out the batteries and the light stayed on.
    I put the truck batteries and alternator into the Excursion and the light did not come on
    in the Excursion. I switched the batteries back to see if anything would change over some driving time but nothing has. Any ideas?
  • chatrkatchatrkat Member Posts: 4
    My 2004 F250 SuperDuty automatic 4x4 PSD 6.0 has a relay under the dash (on the drivers side) that intermittently begins to chatter. Nothing I do seems to make it start or stop. Tried turning things on and off. Wiggled wires under dash, no change. It does not do this all the time. So far everything works and no warning lights come on. The truck has 63k and power windows/locks/keyless entry and no modifications or accidents. Ford service manger said to check the batteries? Both are good and the terminals are clean. Charging system is normal. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (I already tried turning the radio real loud!)
  • hwydriverhwydriver Member Posts: 4
    I had the dealer replace the relay on my 2000 F250. Parts and labor were about 48 bucks and that seemed to take care of the problem
  • chatrkatchatrkat Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for the reply. Do you know the function of the relay in question?
  • steven222steven222 Member Posts: 1
    HELP! My delima is a 95 f150 truck 4.9 4x4 w/ a broken gas gauge. The non working gauge is driving me nuts and my anxiety level is high. The sending unit in the tank has been checked and is working good, my delima is at the gauge and how do I install an after market one. Anyone with an idea please help. My truck is a work truck beat up and going strong at 234000 mi.
  • crash150crash150 Member Posts: 2
    My 95 F150 4.9 M5OD has a cruise control problem. I have checked all the wires and switches. I have one that is strange the #4 location on my cruise control connector is a pink/white wire it has 18v when checked with a volt meter and the key at "run" I only have 1 battery 12V. I also have a black/yellow wire that connects to the cruise cancel switch on master cyclinder to the #9 position on the cruise conn. the wire checks out fine disconnected both ends but when I connect it to the cruise control there is a short I checked the terminals on the cbuise control and no shorts????? Any help would would be appriciated. Thanks.
  • crash150crash150 Member Posts: 2
  • jerryb732jerryb732 Member Posts: 1
    HI BILL,
    I'M NEW TO THIS FORUMS.I HAVE A 2004 F150 AND HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY FORD.JUST THIS FRIDAY 8/3/07 I BROUGHT MY TRUCK IN TO FORD AND THEY FOUND A FACTORY DEFECT.THE DEFECT IS WATER LEAKING INTO THE CENTER JUNCTION BOX ON THE FIRE WALL,WERE ALL THE FUSES ARE.THEY WANT TO ME TO PAY 2500.00 TO CHANGE THE COMPLETE WIRE HARNESS DUE TO WATER DAMAGE FROM THE JUNCTION BOX TO ALL THE WIRES UNDER THE DASHBOARD.THIS IS A BIG JOB AND A VERY EXPENSIVE ONE FORD DOE'S NOT WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT.PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE ARE NO INTERIOR LIGHTS WHEN I ENTER MY TRUCK,RADIO STAYS ON AFTER I EXIT MY TRUCK WITH NO KEY IN IT,POWER SLIDING WINDOW DOE'S NOT OPEN.AND STILL WATING TO SEE WHAT OTHER PROBLEMS THAT I'll HAVE. CHECK YOUR CENTER JUNCTION BOX AFTER A RAINY DAY. HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU. I'M AT THE FIRST STAGE WITH FORD TO SEE WHAT WILL HAPPEN.JERRYB732
  • raven873raven873 Member Posts: 1
    The passenger window button on the drivers main control will not bring the window down. The window will go up, however not down. I have an F-150 Supercrew 4wd, 2004. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • cleoncleon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 ford f-250 I recently purchased. It has about 110,000 miles on it and everything has been ok since I boought it. That is untill this morning. When I heard the engine cranking emidiately I though someone was stealing my truck and they could not start it. After a while the nieghbors fiqured out that no one was in the car and the door were locked. For some strange reason the car was trying to start itself. I have to pull the batteries to stop the cranking.
  • cleoncleon Member Posts: 2
  • honhon Member Posts: 34
    I had that happen with my 59 Ford truck parked in the garage. I heard it cranking over, when I checked to see what was going on I found that since I had it in gear, it pushed my dryer up against the wall and put a dent in the dryer. Lucky it didn't start or push thru the wall. Turned out to be a short in the wiring, not a ghost. What a surprise that was.
  • 98autobahn98autobahn Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone had problems with the icm going out about a half hour after putting a new one in? It's a 96 f-150 straight six. we've put three in so far and it runs great for 30 min. then it just shut's off. Is there a short maybe causing it to go? any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • chatrkatchatrkat Member Posts: 4
    Not knowing the history of the truck it's hard to determine what else may be causing the failures (I assume the ICM fails completely). Here's a long shot, put a good voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine running and confirm the voltage is not higher than about 14 volts. Be sure all accessories are turned off. Raise the engine RPM and watch the meter, the voltage should remain constant +/- a volt or two. There's small a chance the voltage regulator is bad and the alternator is producing high voltage, causing the ICM to fail. Good luck. KF

    +++My 93 F-150 4.9/6 has been totally reliable since the day it was new.
  • davey11davey11 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me where the wires exit for the 4 aux switches on the dash? Have contacted several Ford dealers with no help...where are they hidden? Thanks
  • gard2gard2 Member Posts: 1
    battery goes dead over night what should i look for
  • jdr5jdr5 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought an 08 F150 FX4. I was towing my 17ft Whaler on the back roads without a problem. I proceeded to the main roads and suddenly it started to act up. It was shaking everytime I stepped on the gas. It seemed like it was running on 2cyl. not 8. Thank goodness I was going a short distance. When I shut down the engine and removed the boat, I headed to the dealership w/o a problem. They said everything checked out fine. Anyway, could this be an electrical or fuel problem, or both!

    Thanks
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    Ford owner's manual page 2 or so says NOT to tow in the first 500 miles and in the first 500 miles of towing don't go over 70.

    Mark
  • sgtcoopersgtcooper Member Posts: 2
    MY 2003 F250 WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK. MY BRACK LIGHT WORKS. :mad:
  • astros461astros461 Member Posts: 2
    I have installed a pair of aftermarket foglamps on the rear bumper of my 03 F350. I followed all directions but for some reason when i flip the toggle switch on, it blows my fuze. I've tried wiring them to the battery, to the fuze box, to the rear lamps, all the same result. They pull so much power, when i removed the fuze, the wire insulation began to melt. They are well grounded and the relay swith is good. Anybody got any ideas?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    If your positive you have wired it right, try the following.

    One or both of the lamps are cheap and have a short. Try conecting them temporarely right at the battery with shorter wire. Verify the lamps are good.

    Fog lamps are by design to go on the front, a shorter distance. Sometimes the guage of the wire isn't large enough to handle the extra length. Extra length means more amps going through the wire.

    Depending how many watts each lamp is, you may have to just wire them sepperately from their own relay, same switch. Relays typically can only handle 30amps, thats about 400watts. If each light is 200watts, with the extra length your way over the max. The formula for solving if you know your algebra is watts=amps time volts. Looking at the bottom of your relay , it should be wired like this;

    Relay

    ___
    For Accessory
    ___

    | |
    I+ --> | | <---Ground

    |
    | B+

    Good luck
  • idfordidford Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F150 King Ranch crew cab. After I turn the ignition off the interior lights stay on. I have finally removed the Fuse relay that controls the interior lights. Is the fuse relay bad or is it something else. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Ford used various designs and features for this, but this is what you can do. Please make sure that the dimmer switch is not turned all the way up turning the light on. Next, if the light just wont go off by itself after exit. try exiting through passenger side. If problem is still present, unlikely that its the door switch. By the way, you will have to put the relay back in for these test. If this is a common type relay try switching it with one of your other ones. Relays rarely go bad. Next, test the relay socket for the ground that comes from the door switch. Ford also used a positive on some models. If you have the time delay feature for when you open the door or lift the handle, there may be a problem with that.
  • diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    I had the same problem with my 2008 f250 the interior light ould not go off. took it to dealer and they reflashed the computer . Had no problem since.
  • rvoskuilrvoskuil Member Posts: 1
    2002 f250 superduty diesel

    I hooked up a trailer with a short in the trailer wiring and lost my head lights and tail lights. checked all fuses ok, took it in to a garage and they think its the whole fuse box / control module. any ideas on problem and fix ???
    thanks rv
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Assuming that the diagnosis from this shop is right, you only have 3 opions;

    Get it fixed.

    Drive only during the day.

    Or hard wire the system so everything works from your switch. If you have the headlight delay feature, by passing the moduel will eliminate this feature. Good luck with it.
  • chatrkatchatrkat Member Posts: 4
    My best guess would be a fusable link, possible under the hood, but I can't say for certain. You may want to consult a Ford truck mechanic (not just some pinhead walking around the service dept). I looked on my 2004 diesel F-250 but it's near impossible to see with the mass of wiring under there. Good luck. KF
  • kevin57kevin57 Member Posts: 1
    2005 F-150: The brake and turn lamps on my taillamps are not illuminating. Not the fuse. I can't seem to get the lamp housings off to check the bulbs even though I removed the two screws on the side after opening the bed door? Thanks for suggestions.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    They may be just stuck, new you know. The only other thing holding those in are some push in one way lock tabs. You may have to wiggle them a little, but pulling straight back is how they come out with those screws removed. It sounds like your breaking the thing when those metal spring locks start to release.
  • vibe98vibe98 Member Posts: 6
    what can be the cause of the tail lights and the license plate lights not to work. I have change light bulbs, the light switch and the fuse inside the truck under the dash. Any suggestions?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Do you have power and ground at the socket? With what you have already stated you must be missing one of them. If you have power going through the fuse, and I mean you tested it with a test light. It could be something wrong with the harness. I would double check the bulbs you used, and make sure they are pushed into the sockets correctly. The little metal tabs sometimes bend out of shape. Test the socket for power and then repost.
  • vibe98vibe98 Member Posts: 6
    Well it has been -4 degrees with an wind chill of -20 but I am doing my best to check the sockets.

    I do have brake lights, hazzard lights, change all light bulbs in the tail lights again, change the fuse in slot 18 with a 5amp fuse, plus I do have front parking lights and hazzards and headlights. But no tails and license plate lights. I did locate the conector for the wiring harnes also and i wiggle it hoping something will happen but to no avail.

    Seems no fuse are getting blown. Licenses plate bulbs look good too. I am still stump. Any suggest now besides checking the power and ground?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Your parking lights are on the same circut as your tail lights and license plate light. Forget about your other lights for now. You either are missing ground or positive for the tail lights and plate light. Take a test light to one of the sockets and see which one is missing. You may have just lost a good enough ground for the bed of the truck.
  • vibe98vibe98 Member Posts: 6
    The wire harness under the truck bed by the shock was cut. It probably happened when I changed out shocks by the shop. The wire loom was melted through plus the black tape was melted. Thanks for all the help.

    How much would a wire harness cost from the back to front?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    How much would a wire harness cost from the back to front? You would have to check with the dealer on that. I'm willing to bet that after you do, you will decide to repair the one that is damaged.
  • vibe98vibe98 Member Posts: 6
    They told me about $1000 but did not tell for sure even though I did ask. But it was 6-8 wire that were cut and melted the wire loom plus the black tape. Just that alone costed me $377.12, $356 for labor and $20 for parts. They resolder the wires and put on a fresh loom and tape. Yeah I guess this is the cheaper way but I still wanted to know about the harnes.

    Be care whenever you chage shocks that no one melts your wires.
    P.S. any where I can get a diagram of the wire harness of the F150 series?
  • bladblad Member Posts: 1
    2003 f350 my wiper dont stop even if truk is off i need help
  • vibe98vibe98 Member Posts: 6
    What would cause my 1998 ford f150 with 192,600 to blow 3radiators in one year.
    I have a new one now that was under warranty but it would be nice to figure why the right side seals are going bad.

    Any sugestion.
  • kowenkowen Member Posts: 1
    2003 f150. Noticed the left turn signal stopped working but only when my headlights are turned on. Then found that my brake lights go on with my headslights as well. Changed signal and high center brake bulbs and visual check all fuses - ok. Out of my mind with this problem.
  • rickevin29rickevin29 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 05' f-150 with power door locks that dont work from the door switch, but work with the keyless entry and shift from park feature, my question is , is there a relay for the door swith and if yes where is it located? thanks...........
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