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Chrysler Sebring Climate Control Problems

2

Comments

  • kls3kls3 Member Posts: 4
    I am the original owner so either it happpened when it was serviced even though we never had a leak or that wasn't the cause. We'll never know.
  • catlett1982catlett1982 Member Posts: 2
    this is the problem that I am having the heater isnt blowing anything but cold air , took it to the car lot said it was thermostat housing that didnt work , they said it was the water pump so they are putting it on today .. i dont think thats it either ... car isnt getting hot or anything so i think that rules the water pump out , but i have seen several post stating that their sebring had no warm air that would come out either , if you know how to fix or what the problem is , please let me know .. thanks

    Dale
    catlett1982@yahoo.com
  • catlett1982catlett1982 Member Posts: 2
    this is the problem that I am having the heater isnt blowing anything but cold air , took it to the car lot said it was thermostat housing that didnt work , they said it was the water pump so they are putting it on today .. i dont think thats it either ... car isnt getting hot or anything so i think that rules the water pump out , but i have seen several post stating that their sebring had no warm air that would come out either , if you know how to fix or what the problem is , please let me know .. thanks

    Dale
    catlett1982yahoo.com
  • seballrseballr Member Posts: 11
    I finally got my heater to work in my 2006 Sebring! I took it to a mechanic friend of mine at Firestone. The issue was the upper housing that needed replaced. the radiator was flushed and new coolant added. The cost, with a "family discount" was about $500.
  • seballrseballr Member Posts: 11
    Sorry. I meant to type that it was my 2002 Sebring. Good luck to all with heater issues!
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    I don't see how replacing a hose would get the heat working again unless it had a major leak and antifreeze was running everywhere. :confuse:

    Back flushing the system may have dislodged something blocking the flow or they might have also replaced a stuck thermostat while doing the other work.
  • tom_bergstromtom_bergstrom Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sedan 4cyl. I have the heater/blower problem where only number 4 works ( 1,2,3 nothing). I am picking up the resistor pack tomorrow.

    Next problem, the heat works great except when I turn on the lights......it blows cold out from the front defroster whenever I turn on the headlights. Also, the rear defrost only work if the head lights are off. I cant drive at night if its cold cause the windows fog up so bad I cant see.

    Does the resistor pack have something to do with this?

    I have recently replaced the battery.
  • msminkamsminka Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i'm not even sure if this is the right section but here goes. Yesterday after i had just driven my 97 jxi, i turned the enginef of only to hear a boiling sound.

    I pooped the hood and realised that the coolant was bubbling...almost as if it was boiling like water. It eventually stopped after about 5 minutes of leaving the hood open.

    It did the same thing today after a 15 minute city drive. However didn't do it after another 15 minute drive on the highway. My car is showing now signs on the dash board of overheating.....

    any ideas.....i just want to get an idea of what it could be before i take it to a mechanic for them to tell me something outrageous...

    Thanks In Advance
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    It could be something as simple and cheap to fix as a stuck thermostat. They're not too difficult to replace.

    Other things that would cause it to overheat might be a clogged radiator. That would require removing the radiator, taking it to a radiator repair shop, where they would take it apart and boil it out. It's a bit of work but weigh that against the cost of a new radiator.

    Also, a low coolant level would cause overheating. That might mean that there's a leak somewhere in the system. Check the coolant level after it has cooled down for at least 4 hours or more. I don't know why an overheating issue wouldn't display a warning light on your instrument panel.
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  • drifty1drifty1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 and have replaced the “Blower Motor Resistor” for the third time this summer. The blower works fine, but the new problem is there is no heat when I need it. The blower motor speed works fine, the knob that directs the air to the different areas works well; the air exchange knob also works. BUT the heat control knob rotates from cool to hot with a noticeable change in sound form cool to hot, but no heat.

    My question is this, is there a valve or relays somewhere that directs the hot water into the heater core? We had a massive water leak on the passenger side that shorted out the radio fuse and flooded the AMP under the passenger seat. I had to remove it, clean and dry it out and replaced the radio fuse. It works fine now but could there be another reason why the heater gives no heat?

    Thanks for any advise you can lend.

    Drifty1
  • 01sebringlxi01sebringlxi Member Posts: 1
    ok i have the 01 LXI coupe with 3.0....on all other sebring models there is a bleeder value for the cooling system...if you don't bleed the system you will not get heat.

    i have this same heating problem for over two years now and no one can fix it.
  • esw52892esw52892 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring JXI Convertable.(160,000 miles) My A/C won't turn off and if i turn the blower on a lower setting or off, it will freeze up. I know that the A/C compressor is constantly on, and ive tried pulling the A/C fuse out, relays but it won't turn off. (i did turn off the a/c button). Even if i am using the heater, it will eventually freeze up and no air will come out. I can see that the low pressure lines for the A/C have ice covering it. I have not had this problem for a long time. I would like to be able to turn the A/C off for better gas mileage too. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
  • ronkloronklo Member Posts: 1
    You may need to reset the PCM (Power control Module). I'm having a heat problem where I have no heat, unless I rev the engine, then it's great. Fluid is good, and it's not overheating sitting idle (indicating pump problem). I found info in my public library's online auto info (Chrysler bulletin# 24-002-04 Rev.A), that says to have the car in room temp of 50-80 degrees F (whole car should probably be warm), and disconnect the M-1 fuse for 10 minutes to erase the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes),. Reinstall the fuse and start the car to initiate the HVAC system calibration. Allow to run 5 minutes for calibration to complete before shutting off car.

    I just wish I could find where fuse M-1 is located.
  • hawker95hawker95 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have an issue with my fan speeds. 1 & 2 blows virtually nothing, but the fan is running. on 3, it blows a bit harder. Maybe about like it should on 1 or 2. Then on 4 its like a hurricane. Could this be the resistor? The blower is working on speeds 1,2 & 3, but just barely. From the other posts I have read, if it were the resistor then 1, 2, & 3 would be dead and only 4 would blow. Any ideas?
  • tscareustscareus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Sebring, the temperature control doesn't seem to change the air coming out the vents at all. It's always hot. Is there a valve that should close off coolant to the heater core? Could it be a vacuum problem with the controls? Is there a flap that should close off the heater core? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • sebringfoolsebringfool Member Posts: 1
    i have a problem where the radiator fan doesnt kick in even whe the AC is on. There is no water in the return line to the radiator. How do you know if its the temp sensor. Even if the fan motor was blown there should be water flowing thru the line. I replaced the thermostat. any suggestions
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I've got what appears to be the same problem with my 2008 Sebring Touring sedan with 16K miles, but in my case it's the high speed setting that works intermittently. Sometimes I have to play with the control knob to get the high speed to work and sometimes it will turn off by itself where I then have to jiggle the knob to get it to work.

    Since it's so intermittent I don't want to take it to the dealer just yet.

    Any thoughts?
  • ca0nhanca0nhan Member Posts: 1
    Could you please tell me where or which website I can buy the Fan/Blower Switch Resistor for the Chrysler Sebring 2001 sedan with the price around $12 to $24 that you have told above?
    Tks in advance
  • clipneckerclipnecker Member Posts: 2
    2002 Chrysler sebring sedan - Heating cooling fan is oscillating. The air coming out of the vents will stop then come back on after a few moments. This will happen in all speed settings. While in the lowest speed the air seems to oscillate down to near nothing then back to speed settings? Seems kind of like a fan going out or ??
  • clipneckerclipnecker Member Posts: 2
    http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/

    You'll find the resistor under HVAC/control/blower motor

    Resistor, all models, sedan 01-04 $29.64
  • corndoggy37corndoggy37 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me the right way to hot wire the fan with either a toggle switch or directly to the ignition or starter please in detail im not to mechanical incline thanks
  • mactavishmactavish Member Posts: 1
    This is the blower motor resistor going. I've had to replace this twice on my 02 Sebring. The latest ones are made better than the previous types so it shouldn't go anymore. The only issue you may have with the newer resistors is that you will have to cut a larger hole to fit it in as they've changed the size slightly.

    Cheers!
  • fox11fox11 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Sebring sedan, just had blower motor replaced then it stopped working. Back to the shop this time they replaced resistor,. Now the AC works but the damper opens and closes at will shifting the ac from floor level to face level to defrost at will? any suggestions.
  • thebeekthebeek Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 convertible 6 cyl. Exact same problem. The A/C dash control unit on mine behaves better if the trim plate is not snapped into the dash. I've noticed that the wiring harness connection to the distribution dial (floor, vent, defrost, etc.) requires jiggling to allow the distribution to work properly, especially with the headlights on. The connection is seated well, so it almost seems like the socket is not soldered well to the circuit board. I don't have the resistor block problem, so the headlight issue seems to be connection or voltage related.
  • nixoniinixonii Member Posts: 1
    Instructions on how to replace heater core 2002 sebring.
    Is it difficult to do?
    how many hours will is take?
  • rocky61rocky61 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I bought a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with 33,000miles. It has been in a garage and used very little. Two days ago, it is having a problem to start. I turned on the key several times then the car will start. Auto zone checked it out and said it is the oxygen sensors, so I bought two. When the car starts runs smoothly. A mechanic says it is the fuel pump, but if it is the fuel pump why is the engine light still on, after it starts and runs smoothly? Another mechanic says it is something else. any help?
    Frank
  • schaferjbschaferjb Member Posts: 2
    I too have an 05 Sebring. Just within the last 3 weeks I have ben getting water build up on the passenger side. After pulling the seat and removing the carpet for a second time to dry it all out, I have traced the leak to come from the evaporator housing firewall "interface"to the engine compartment. There is a foam seal (between the housing and the firewall inside the car) that is not sealing anymore. At one point all the drain water was coming inside rather than draining outside. I Tugged and pulled the seal a little bit and was able to get about half the water to drain outside. All this was after inspecting the drain tube (out side of firewall) was clear and clean. The car only has 29,000 miles and the ac cranks out cold air. I have had two mechanic friends tell me it must be the evaporator. If the evaporator was the problem, it would not work and blow cold air. I am convinced it is the foam seal but can not confirm without pulling the dash all apart to remove evaporator housing. Please tell me that you had this same problem and how you got it fixed
  • mpines69mpines69 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find out how to hot wire switch I think mine in my 2002 chrsler sebring convertible is bad and i want to hot wire to find out? thanks mike
  • zephonzephon Member Posts: 9
    Didn't really know what to title this question. Problem: the air/heat blows only through the dash ports...turning the switch to defrost, feet, or inbetween will not change the direction of the air flow to those ports. Mechanic says the switch is working, sending signal to some kind of computer module that in turn is not sending signal to the door which pivots to change the direction of the airflow. He says the part available from Chrysler is around $600. Not acceptable. He also said that by crossing the switch with a wire they are able to get the door to move, so an option might be moving it to the defrost/feet position and let it stay. I'm not sure of the name of that "module" or I would look it up myself. Has anyone had this issue crop up?

    BTW, I had the same problem with the blower switch and with the heat not working. They replaced the resistor and flushed the cooling system and it blows hot now.
  • zephonzephon Member Posts: 9
    Found out the mechanic thinks I need a new body control module (BCM), about $650. Does this seem reasonable?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi, zephon,

    Try running your question past the folks in the Maintenance & Repair Costs topic - they should have some input for you.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

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    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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  • charlessrcharlessr Member Posts: 11
    i have a 2002 sebring lxi convert...the blower fan only works on high....i am told I have to replace the resistor..has anyone done this...how hard is it????
  • swentlingswentling Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2007 Sebring and I can't get heat down to my feet. The heat blasts on the windshield and defrost even though I close the vents. How do I get heat to my feet, they freeze while I suffocate. Also, is there a quick fix for cruise control not working?
  • homer17homer17 Member Posts: 2
    The HVAC control module seems to be a common problem with these cars. When the module goes bad, the system behaves erratically. Easy fix - replace the module (module is the circuit board behind the control dials). Pops out of dash. Bad news - part is dealer only, about $350.
  • homer17homer17 Member Posts: 2
    This is a symptom of the HVAC control module failing. It behaves erractically when it goes bad. Easy to replace, but part is about $350 from the dealer. The module is the unit with the control dials on it. Pops out of dash.
  • bobickbobick Member Posts: 1
    I am having a real odd problem with my heater blower on my 2005 Sebring. I have the standard A/C heating cooling setup. When I first start my car in the morning my blower fan control works fine. It will turn on and work at all 4 different speeds. The problem starts once the car is turned off. Once I start my car up again the blower will not come on. When I move the selector switch that controls where the air is blown (upper, lower, or both) I can hear the flaps open and close to direct the air but the fan stays off. If I move the selector to one of the A/C settings (upper, lower, recirc, or defrost) I can hear the A/C compressor kick in, but the blower will stay off. Every once in a while if I rap the area close to the control panel or the area close to the blower motor the blower will start to work. For the most part though the blower will not come on unless the engine is cold. Does anyone have any guess as to what I may need to replace to fix this. I don't have a lot of experience working on cars, but if anyone has any advice, and any pictures that might help me to do the repair I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
  • mgonzales1235mgonzales1235 Member Posts: 1
    This same exact thing happened to my 02 lxi and it was the blower motor resistor. It is located behind the glove box and is very easy to change out- about 15 minutes.
  • djess1djess1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Sebring Convertible. When I turn on the heat, it takes along time to heat up in the cold. When it does finally heat up, it will continually oscillate from hot to cold and back to hot again, then cold, the setting is not on Automatic. If I put automatic on, it only blows cold air. Any idea what this could be? Please help! It's starting to get very cold in the northeast!
  • ardvark02ardvark02 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2002 sebring convertible. I replaced it myself in about 20 min. The resistor is located under the glove box. It's awkward to get to but not hard to replace.
  • teneeds1teneeds1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Sebring conv. And the blower controller will only work is I put pressure on the knob when selecting a speed if I let go of it it shuts off,how would I replace the controller unit. :mad:
  • rayman4234rayman4234 Member Posts: 1
    I had that problem and found out in the engine compartment either in the front or back part of the engine there is a bleeder valve on the radiator lines, the same kind thats in the brake calipers, sounds like you system is air bound so you need to open up the bleeder and get the air out of the system......hope this helps....
  • cycle50cycle50 Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I replaced the heater core on a 2000 Sebring Conv. Hours were approx. 10 hrs. for a 'DYI'. I had another car to use so I took my time. Wasn't too bad but had a Chiltons manual to help guide me. If you are used to working on cars and can take time it isn't too bad a job. I also did the heater core in my 1994 T&C Van which was quite the job. That was more like a week job - had to strip down the entire interior.
  • cycle50cycle50 Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I had the same problem on a 2000 Sebring Conv. I replaced the entire control unit - heat/blower/ac knob unit. Bought a replacement unit at a salvage yard for $20. Took me about 2 hrs. including pulling the part from the salvage yard. I think others had paid $350 for a new replacement unit from Chrysler. Also had the resistor problem along with the fan unit. Replace two resistors and finally the blower fan before replacing the resistor for the third time. Overall I have ~150K miles on this 2000. While I have done some repairs - also the heater core, it has been a good car for 10 years+
  • cycle50cycle50 Member Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    Might want to check out replacing the fan unit at the same time. I replaced two resistors and then finally the fan unit along with the 3rd resistor. (2000 Sebring Conv.)
  • robmexrobmex Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2013
    I have a 2001 sebring. The a/c and fan work but not the heat,rear defrost, and the air directional knob.When I turn on the a/c the air comes out strong but then settles down a lil.Is this normal?Nothing happends when I turn on heat ,rear def or directional air knob.Can or should I take it apart and fix the control switch first or do I need to buy new one? Can it be the resistor or something else? Thanks !!!
  • zephonzephon Member Posts: 9
    We had the car in the shop and got the air flow direction door fixed on my wife's 2002 Sebring so that's ok. But there are still issues with the climate control. When she's driving at faster speeds, the AC (or heat, when needed) seems to work fine, putting out good cold (or warm, if heating) air. But when she's driving at slower speeds such as in city traffic or stopped at signal lights, the air coming out when using AC doesn't feel cool at all, and when using the heater, it doesn't feel warm. Should engine rpm affect the climate control output? It doesn't seem to in other vehicles.

    Also, and this may be related or not, when she parks and turns the car off, the coolant often boils into the reserve reservoir and out an overflow tube. Does this indicate a faulty thermostat? We did have that replaced but it still happens. The wife says this has been going on since we bought the car.

    Trying to get these issues fixed has been a thorn in my wife's side since none of the local garages seem to be successful at it, and it costs a bunch each time we take it in.
  • crimsonredcrimsonred Member Posts: 1
    Was wondering if you could offer a little guidance on how to find/access it. the fan works in my 04 sebring convertible, but not the a/c. Just had it checked for $75 & they said it was full.
  • robmexrobmex Member Posts: 3
    If your fan works,it must not be the resistor.First check panel control switch then thermostat.I had problems with mine.Bought a used one junk yard changed thermostat.Like new.
  • danylldanyll Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I think my a/c has a poltergiest! It blows cold air from the front panel venr, then all by itself, it starts blowing thru the defrost vents. .. then moves to the floor vents. .. switches to warm air. ..then back to cold air. ..then back to the front panel vents. ... etc. .. anyone else? ??? I would love some feedback... Thank you. ..

    Its a 2007 sebring convertible
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