Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I replaced all the weatherstripping around the windows including the front weatherstripping for the front window panel and the sides of both sides of the windows and rear windows.
Then my mechanic at Burge Chrysler in West Los Angeles was able to bend down the top of the convertible so that it sat tighter on the weatherseals. This worked and it does not leak anymore. He worked on it (even though it took two times) but it was finally fixed.
Keiko
Thanks Chrysler!
I had to replace all 5 major rubber window waterproofing seals on the car (one for the main front window, 4 for each driver and passenger front windows and rear windows.
Then it still rained since the convertible top would not closed down completely where the handle clamps for the convertible.
So my dealership technician at Buerge Ford in Los Angeles who is an angel, worked on it for several times, until he was able to adjust the tightness of the clamp and the top. I had to bring it in three times before he got it right.
All I know that they did not buy any additional parts (once I bought the rubber windows seals) and worked on it so that it shut completely closed down on the rubber seals.
It does not rain anymore inside my car. You have to be firm with the dealership and get them to fix it; also be nice to the technician who fixed it - it cost me alot of candy and cakes before he got it right.
Asiangem
Another poster suggested removing the hook (it screws out after removing the small lock screw) and grinding off the end so it can be screwed in even more than it can be now, but there is a limit to how much the threads on the hook will allow it to go into the holder. I also have a 97 and have never had a problem with is, but I think the securing mechanism is different.
Thanks for your time and support.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
mine originally clogged from the back window breaking and the shards of glss blocked the holes...but road gunk can splach up there too.
there are a few holes right under the door, between the tires...
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
The body shop said not a chance and quoted me $1200.00 for a complete new top?
My solution is:
JB Weld (glue) the rag top to the window again.
That would take some trim part removal to free the rag top from the car.
Do a visual where the ragtop was attached window.
Create an Inside and Outside, "Border One" with Duct Tape : Masking off the area on the rear glass that I will apply glue too. That should keep excessive glue from getting on the glass.
Create an Inside and Outside, "Duct Tape Fastner" : Create a "large Bandage", Over lap 4 or 5 strips of duct tape to create a really wide "duct tape fastner"
Attach the duct tape fastner to the ragtops outside edge. Only attaching half the width of the "duct tape fastner" to the edge. The remaining half should is used to secure the ragtop back to the rear window.
Apply the glue to the rear window area, apply glue only to the area masked off by Border One.
Then stretch the rag top back to the glue on the bottom of the rear window.
Complete the outside process by working the ragtop edge into the glue on the window; using the "duct tape fastner" to hold the ragtop in place until the glue cures.
Repeat the process for the inside of the ragtop.
Please reply with insight into:
Type of adhesive or fastners you would use to achieve a fix.
Removing trim work around the back of the car where top meets the car.
And any other constructive thought you may have.
Thank-you in advance for your time and any replies;
Jack
Any answers will help I just need to know because this car is in Mint condition with 65k on the mileage.
Good Luck on your repair; post your resolution when you have one.
I'm still soliciting ideas for a fix on my problem at the moment.
Regards,
Jack
1) Can someone tell me what size set-screws go in the convertible top latches to hold the "J" hooks in place? I've called 2 Chrysler parts departments and they only sell the complete latch assemblies, where my latches just have the treaded holes for the set screws, but the screws themselves are missing - so my "J" hooks (which attach to the windshield header) rotate with them.
2) My top folds down easily with a touch of the button, but it can sometimes be difficult to raise back up - the motor seems strong, I suspect it might be the switch - could I be on the right track with that assumption?
Thank You
Jim in Maynard, MA
2. Since 50,000 miles, dashboard/cluster lights do not work but for occasional flicker. Drive in the dark of all mph, fuel levels, etc. at night. Use flashlight. Dealership: $700 to repair. Bundled part problem again. Not fuse. Not electrical. Failure. Driving in trash can.
No remedy but lawsuit which is absurdly expensive and time consuming. Don't buy American ever. I bought this vehicle over the Solaria solely due to patriotism. Never ever again buy American.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f6882/12#MSG12
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f6882/27#MSG27
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f68aa/146!vuserName=rbender
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
problems to look out for
1- These cars have some electrical gremlims (like the radio that cuts out for a second when putting the top up or down) and the micro switches for the top stop working suddenly and then reset in a little while and work again. hopefully these happen when the top is either all the up or down. I would not bother to try and repair that issue unless it stops for good. Ours has done this on both the 08 and 09 for most of the 90K miles we put on them.
The front strut mounts tend to go bad,then you get a little rattle in the front end,change the struts and the mounts
The 2.7 has a sludge issue,especially the earlier versions. I use full synthetic and change every 4000 miles
also. make sure you change "all" the fluids every 50K max, trans fluid,ps fluid,coolent,brake fluid. Do this and you shoud get 150-175k out of the car. this is the most important thing you can do
Brakes- The brake system on this car really sucks.The rotors go out of round very easily when they overheat just once. I get my brakes at brake masters.lifetime on the pads,1 year on the rotors. after about 35K you will need new front pads, then new rotors at about 50 or 60.if you get the brakes don,make sure they have at least a year warranty against the rotors getting out of round.they should turn the rotors for free up to a year
Thats all I can think of, hope this helps
I just replaced my 2001 convertible hydraulic pump and ram cylinders with a used unit from ebay.
It's a larger unit than the original, if that's any help. Anyway, it works great, but the cylinder travel for putting the top up is not as far as the old ones. I have to pull the top down to latch it and I'm afraid there might be some difficulty with it since I'm not the primary driver.
Is there a way to adjust the travel on the rams or adjust the limit switch on the motor? Or did I just waste my money on a replacement?
Thanks for your expertise!
Paul
JCC
Let the window open for air circulation if possible to let the car try out afterwards before you got mildew and stuff.
Good luck.
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
Purchased at 93k miles now at 104,443.
93k miles valve gasket (rear/upper) cracked + top goes down slowly, drops at end, and won't go back up via switch. Ball joints failed on way home from purchasing car, could barely steer and had to pull over at toll booth. Had fixed by mechanic got ho reinstalled struts backwards......
95k miles front struts crooked and bent had to be replaced. Alignment.
97k miles car randomly wouldn't steer AT ALL, engine light came, had to pull off and then be followed by another vehicle while I drove 10mph back home bc steering was so unstable. Threw codes saying system running too rich and throttle body/MAFS, 02 sensor, whatnot had errors. Replaced PCV valve, air filter, cleaned throttle body, replaced spark plugs + gasket cover + seals. Cleaned cylinders. MAFS, MAPS replaced. Car ran good drove good still threw P0172 even after engine light reset or something like that? System too rich.. then suddenly engine light went away and code wasn't being thrown anymore.
Tranny slips in 3rd gear by 100k miles.
Turned right onto road and car stalled out, went over median and sat there. Started car back up and it drove fine. That's when I discovered windshield leak, cracked oil pan, cracked valve gasket cover AGAIN, oil leaks all over everything and back struts are now worse.
99k miles passenger side rear window doesn't like to go up, drivers side window leaks rain if it POURS, seems to be coming from corner where windshield + window + door meet. Doesn't leak when lightly raining.
101k miles battery dropped to 6.5V, died randomly and wouldn't start via jumpstart. Continuously revved and attempted to start back to back until it did. Let run for 20 mins turned off and tried to turn back on.. wouldn't start. 3 hours later car starts and has full 14V battery again. Has been running since.
103k miles lights inside flicker slightly when headlights/high beams on and occasionally my air will blow out of dash vents and not front vents, and warm. Then glitches back to blowing cold air thru vents (I use the far left "cycle cold air in car" ac option) but I also live in FL... Which leads me tooooooo: undercarriage drain holes were clogged on passenger side and ac had a clog so water started filling passenger side floor undee carpet. Clog was cleaned and ac doesn't glitch anymore and floor is dry once again (RIP with all the mold/mildew tho...)
104k miles truck started swerving into my lane as if I wasnt there 11pm middle of nowhere. I swerve left into median and tires lose traction. I spun 360 over and over, brakes were locked up, I pulled e brake and was thrown sideways and backwards down ditch into lake. Started to flip onto drivers side in waist deep water, but passenger side fell back down. Air bags did not deploy WHEN THEY SHOULDVE. Back right tire broke, tire laid crooked in wheel well but still connected. Still drives and steers but grinds, able to be towed out and drive car into a straight position for tow truck. Seems to be stabilizer bar snapped, steering knuckle/ball joint bent, heat shield around rotor bent up into rotor disc but I used plyers to bend it back into shape (as best as I could as it cracked the shield on the backside when the lip was bent up -- bottom lip of disc) and strut/shock bent (grinding sound) so all needs replacing -- and as usual, gotta mirror any work done on left back tire too 🙄 so.
Tire erosion/bent rim on left/right inner tire from weight of car on tire from car, bc stabilizer bar/tie rod snapped. All lights work even tho hood was in water up to headlights (submerged and left me in complete darkness which is why I remember) and everything seems clean. Pending mechanic inspection to make sure no water/muck in anything important, and the like.. will update.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!
MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4