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In any event, your vehicle is still worth more than the cost of a new transmission---if you don't fix it, you'll get practically nothing for your trade-in.
Its been at a mechanic's shop for 5 days now. It took 2 days to replicate the problem and the next to get it on a rack. They have tranny exposed, find only light metal shavings, and no visible problems or analytical solutions. All they have offered is a 3 grand replacement. But if they haven't found a problem yet, how does putting a new version of the same thing solve anything. That, and I don't have $3,000 to hope they get it right.
Dodge Caravan ETC ETC ETC..
When will you people learn, American vehicles are junk, the dealerships put faulty transmissions in cars knowing it will go bad around the time your warranty goes out!
The next year model car they will take that same faulty transmission and put it in a newer model to make money,,, If you have an extra 3000, for a transmission and 7000, to replace a motor every 3 or 4 years then keep on buying american!
I am out odf state right now so I can't check it out myself.
Thanks!
Now however I am having trouble with the transfer case. 2wd is fine. 4wd full time cause the vehicle to grind to a halt. I can only describe the feeling as though the brakes are applied. I can push the accelerator and move the vehicle but it resists forward motion and quickly comes to a complete stop upon releasing the accelerator pedal. Anyone have thoughts on this one? I know that the NV242 transfer case has a planetary gear to allow the front and rear shafts to spin at different speeds while in full-time 4wd. Could this planetary gear be buggerred up?
If you want not to put the money into a SunCoast T/C and Transgo shift kit be prepared to be dealing with problems. The 545 transmission was designed for a 6 or 8 cyclinder engine and definitely not one with the torque of a Hemi, but a Hemi is 8 cylinders=4 power strokes and a 6 cylinder = 3 power strokes of torque/power to the TC and onto the transmission as a whole. The CRD Mighty Mite is 4 cylinders =2 slam dunk of pure torque/power to the TC = to a 4 stroke Hemi in the power range. Not hard to understand why the TC's fail, even the recall replacement better but won't last. Now, I'm sorry I forgot to mention this and try this out, put a car ramp under the front wheel and back wheel have someone watch for you when your centered up on both and stop, emergency brake. I've seen this on alot of cars not just our beloved CRDs (most of the time) reach around near the top from the driver's side you will find the transmission breather laying "FLAT". Cut the hose directly behind it and go to the auto parts purchase 6 feet of same size hose and a junction connector/splice connector. Now run the hose first down from the engine compartment route the hose to stay away from sharp and hot items, zip tie here and there, put the union connector and hose you purchased into the transmission breather line ( Dawn soap works great for this task) then I tied ours off onto the brake line box just infront on the firewall on the drivers side as it should be "VERTICAL". Now unplug the battery clean the MAP sensor check Eurekaboy.com for this. Good luck I have alot more to say for mods I've performed and researched 33.5 mpg in town, it'll take 2 years to break even but the little pains and some larger are all gone 1 year and not even a hickup.
Have you ever found out what the problem is?Should i be worry?
Thanks,
Ginette
Ajax,Ontario,Canada
Tranny is a different story, I got to 87K miles and the transmission is now (once again) shifting hard from 2-3rd gear (at approximately 20MPH under light-to-moderate accelaration). It also "bangs" into drive when I move the shift selector to "D". I pulled the codes and one was tranny overheat and the other was the generic TCU code.
Has anyone had this issue? Am I looking at a bad wiring harness or a bad TCU or both?
Thanks for any guidance.
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD - 129k miles, stock everything, original EGR, second engine block/head/turbo/water pump at 40k miles. I plan to change my timing belt before winter and would appreciate some suggestions about what else I shoud do to maximize the life and performance of my gutsy little diesel.
It seems like a good idea to disable the EGR before it creates the big problems some people have reported. There are a few other upgrades that sound worthwhile like the Pro-Vent system. I can't do everything of course, but I am willing to spend about $1,000.00 this time to buy a little peace of mind. I will do all the labor myself with the help of my diesel mechanic brother-in-law.
My transmission has so many miles on it, I am reluctant to invest in a shift kit or other upgrade. No doubt it will need a total rebuild in the not so distant future, but it is working great now. Should I consider replacing fuel injectors or glow plugs or just wait for them to fail?
Any ideas on how to fix this would be great. Especially if I can do this myself.
Around 79K miles, the TCM was throwing several codes and they replaced part # 4799758-ad sensor. Apparently this is the one and only, but I am not a tranny expert (obviously from my other posts). The replaced line pressure sensor resolved my problems for about 9K miles.
Now at 88K miles, I am getting P0700 (MIL request from TCM) and P0714 (transmission internal temp sensor intermittent).
I am looking at the service manual for the 545RFE. Can anyone verify/validate for me that the internal fluid temp sensor is integrated into the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)? if this is true, it looks like I would have to pull the valve body.... but is the TRS integrated into the valve body (i.e. do I have to purchase the whole valve body new) or is the TRS a replaceable/separate component?
Does this make sense?
*update* crap, looks like a $380 part and few hours of wrench-time, correct?
I bought a ODB-II code reader, when my tranny started acting up around 88K miles. When I reset the codes, the transmission shifts like it just "rolled off the factory line."
It might be two minutes, two hours, or two days later; and it sets P0700 and P0714 agains and starts shifting roughly.
Rinse and repeat. Same random results.
Is there a way to splice a resistor into one for the wires from the 24-pin connector an send the TCM the expected voltage, all of the time? I know that's some serious stupid-engineering... but it drives very well WHEN the codes aren't set.
It was loping for a couple days in the lower gears after the clutch was disengaged. Then finally, it wouldn't pull the car at all in any gear.
The dealer wants $1200 to replace everything (his words) and $900 to just replace the clutch. My questions are these:
1) What does a clutch problem look like as opposed to a transmission problem?
-and-
2) Have you seen this sort of problem resolved and if so, how?
Best regards,
Damien Riley
car info:
Make: Jeep
Model: 2004 KJ Liberty 2WD
Transmission: Manual
Engine Size: Basic
If you mean you can't GET it into any gear anymore, then you may only need a clutch hydraulics overhaul, which is a lot cheaper.
1) Leave the truck idling in Park for 8-12 minutes. This is 100% repeatable.
2) Operate the vehicle with the Air Conditioning running on the road for more than 10 minutes. About 80% repeatable.
Ambient temp doesn't seem relevant, nor does driving conditions (city vs. highway).
Any thoughts?
-Marc
PS I am strongly considering pulling the Internal Temp sensor wire and feeding the TCM a false 15ma value :-). The tranny runs fine, once the codes are reset.
I appreciate your input in helping me understand that it was a clutch issue.
Do you have the 45RFE tranny?
This one needs a pro. My non-pro guess is that a pressure control device is failed in the closed state.... and pressure is not being passed.
Thanks for your information
While this work-around is annoying, it works and costs me nothing.
If I get resolution, I will post it.
other than this I love my jeep.