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Jeep Liberty Electrical and Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • orangecamperorangecamper Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Libby Sport, no mods (yet!). I went out yesterday morning, wouldn't start, just fast ticking noise. All the light come on, no problem lights on the console. I charged the battery, started right up, ran fine. No signs that I would take as alternator going out. Left it a couple of hours, started a little slow. Got up this morning, same thing. Interior lights come on, but when I try to start, it just ticks.
    Any ideas what it could be?
    Thank you!!! :cry:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Optima Red Top battery symptom... Mine died this way :(
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Are the interior lights dim after it sits? Sounds like something is drawing current while its sitting and draining the battery.
  • bobmcbobsonbobmcbobson Member Posts: 1
    We have the same problem with our '02 Liberty. For us, the thing that always makes the light go out is to activate the turn signal (doesn't matter which direction). Our dealer has been no help either, so if you do discover a solution, I would love to hear about it.
  • tjb2tjb2 Member Posts: 7
    Turn signal does make the lights go out..and you"re right..the dealer is no help..
  • orangecamperorangecamper Member Posts: 3
    O.K. coming back to say what happened.
    I feel silly now, LOL! It was the original battery, battery was done for. Replaced the battery, no problems since. :blush:
    I was worried it may be the alternator, I ahve had problems with other vehicles and alterantors, and it always started with ticking... :D
  • ulfclkulfclk Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty the passenger side turn signal and some times the brake light go out. I have replaced the bulb on several occasions but it still goes out. Any help would be appreciated.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Sounds like maybe a bad connection in the socket. If there is say a bad ground the bulb will flash on and off very quickly from vibration and pop the bulb. You won't see it because you are driving the truck. Hope this helps.
  • gremmiegremmie Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2005 Jeep Liberty. My wife had taken the car to work and back along with running a few errands with no problems. She goes to leave the house 5 minutes later and won't turn over at all, although some of the lights come on. But, there is very little power - not even enough to lock doors.

    I put the key in the door (remote entry won't work) and a red light starts flashing on the dash along with a clicking noise. The clicking sounds like it is coming from the PDC box by the battery. When I turn the key a little, all the dash lights come on flashing. When I disconnect battery, the clicking (and of course the lights) stop. I reconnect the battery, put the key into the ignition and put it in neutral to push the car into the garage. When I get to neutral, all the flashing stops and lights are quite a bit brighter and almost like normal. So, I turn the key to try to start it. The lights all turn off, no clicking noise, no nothing.

    I checked all the fuses in the interior and they all seem ok. I am not really sure how to check the fuses in the PDC box by the battery. I tried jumping it with our other car and it just seems dead.

    Any ideas where to start? Money is tight right now so I am trying to do as much as I can on my own and will be very appreciative of any guidance.
  • orangecamperorangecamper Member Posts: 3
    2 things - remote entry won't work, and the little red light. I would suggest replacing the battery in your key. When I bought my '05 (at a Jeep dealer), they told me about the keys, and there is something in the key that interacts with the computer. If you don't have that, or the battery dies in your key, you won't be able to start it. That's why the replacement keys are so expensive, too. I would suggest trying that first.
    GOOD LUCK!!!
  • gremmiegremmie Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. Would that still be the case if I now have no lights at all? Since I thought it might be the battery and that is pretty easy to pull out, I took it down to Autozone to get it tested. The clerk working there didn't want to test it so he just gave me a brand new battery since mine was still under warranty. When I put it in, I got the same reaction as I did last night - which is also the same reaction I would have if I tried turning the key with the battery disconnected - no lights, no power windows/locks, no turning over, etc.

    We have two keys and it wasn't working with either key. But now that you mention the key, I have noticed that the horn has sounded really muffled the past few weeks. Any correlation?
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Check your ignition relay. Clicking noise was probably a relay not working and your not getting power switched on for the ignition. They act as switches. The PDC box has the ignition relay in it. It was probably starting to burn out and now its fried.
  • gremmiegremmie Member Posts: 3
    That was it. Thanks.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    No problem.
  • mvqmvq Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 CRD with tow package when applying the brake the left turn signal indicator and front and rear turn signal bulbs light up, the outside bulbs still flash when turned on while braking but the indicator light on the instrument panel stays on anytime the brake is applied. I haven't went to dealer yet if any ideas I would appreciate it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi, it seems you're missing the ground connection of the left stop light bulb.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    edited March 2010
    Maybe a bad ground or a short possibly in the fusebox? I'm thinking maybe corrosion.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Or something with the wiring in your tow package.
  • drossovdrossov Member Posts: 1
    I have an 2002 Jeep Liberty sport and I have the same problem with the left turn indicator illuminating as I apply the brakes. If it is an improper ground, how can I fix it. I found the fuse for the parking lights to be blown so I keep on changing it as a temporary fix...
  • dkampsniderdkampsnider Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty and my power seats went from working off and on to not at all. The seats will tilt up and down but not forward and back. My mirrors are doing the exact same thing, went from working fine to off and on, now they dont move at all. The seats and the mirrors stopped at the same time. hope you can help.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    If you keep blowing fuses its probably a short. A short will also make one circuit work off another because two wires are touching together usually in a connector.
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Switches might be worn out. Get a voltmeter and check your voltage coming into the switch. Positive will be on a connector on the switch and ground will be the door frame or anything metal on the body. If there's volts there goto the other side of the switch that connects to the electric motor(s) and see if there's voltage when you toggle the switch.
  • libertygirl13libertygirl13 Member Posts: 8
    Hello!
    The Fan Speed Selector Switch in my 2003 Jeep Liberty blows air on 1,2,and 3 but NOT on 4. Any ideas? Thank you!
  • mvqmvq Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for your ideas I am the owner of the 2005 CRD with the left turn signal indicator lighting up when hitting the brake just to let you know what I found. The wiring harness from the factory installed turn signal converter below the left turn signal apparently was grounding somewhere on the hitch I removed it and taped the whole harness re-routing it as I went, everything is now working fine now. While on the subject of the 2005 CRD does someone out there know how to wire up an electric brake controller I assume the wiring is already installed just need to know where to start looking.
    Thanks
  • libertygirl13libertygirl13 Member Posts: 8
    Hello. I'm the owner of a 2003 Jeep Liberty. Recently, my console lights have dimmed and I cannot make them brighter (by turning its switch located on the turn signal lever). Seems to have short-circuited. Also, I cannot turn the ceiling light on with the switch. They do come on when the door is open or if I press them to turn it on. Any suggestions would be so appreciated :)
  • jscott228jscott228 Member Posts: 2
    Read messages on here all which seem older, seems to be a common issue and hoping to correct with advise given this weekend by replacing resistor behind glove box. Any other advise of others who have done this is appreciated.
  • navisolracnavisolrac Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I'm having the same problem with my '02 Liberty and I was wondering what exactly was the fix on yours? :cry:

    I've read a couple of options but some are a bit misleading and the two shops I've been to are making it sound really really complicated!!

    I would appreciate your feedback!! Thank you!!!!! Good day! :)
  • libertygirl13libertygirl13 Member Posts: 8
    Hello Navisolrac~~ I haven't fixed the fan blower problem yet..I did go to Auto Zone and they sell the part for the blower switch...It does seem a bit complicated to fix because of the location of the area to work in is in the glove compartment... right now, I am just putting the control on the number that lets the air out the most AND also putting the other control switch to the recycled air level...this helps the air to blow stronger (with my problem, the air doesn't come out of #4 but it comes out of 1,2,and 3).. Please let me know if you get yours fixed and how much $$ they charged...
    Thanks a bunch!!
  • cheeps34cheeps34 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    Just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. Recently my right headlight went out, replaced it, worked for a while. Just the other day I had my head light, top brake light and right brake light all go out at the same time, replaced them all and they still don't work. I didn't touch the bulb with my fingers and have checked all the fuses. Any ideas?
  • ron915ron915 Member Posts: 1
    i have an 02 jeep liberty and the whole cluster dont work speedo gauges nothing.has anyone had this problem or any ideas
  • joeusatbmjoeusatbm Member Posts: 1
    Dear mvq;
    We have a 2005 Liberty with the exact same problem that you've experienced. The left turn signal indicator is lighting up when the brake is applied, and when the turn signal is on it flashes all the brake lights!!!!! What a joke eh??? Anyway, my question for you is... where exactly is the signal converter that you speak of that was shorting? Is it in the front or rear? Please give me some more info so I know what to look for.

    Thanks in advance.... Joe
  • bchiassonbchiasson Member Posts: 2
    i have an 06 liberty. the drivers side lights all work properly. the high brake light works, the license plate lamps work, all interiors. but the passenger side headlamp only works when its on the lowbeam setting, the DTR and the Highbeam does not work. Also the brake light on the passenger side doesnt work but the taillight does and they are the same bulb.
    I have replaced both bulbs multilple times and i have checked the fuses, i realize both sides run off separtate circuits. I can not figure out whats up.
    Any help is appreciated.
  • sphelpssphelps Member Posts: 1
    My son is stranded iin tenn. he is at booneroo festival and they wont allow AAA on the grounds. The battery went dead playing the radio (at a music festival???) so several people jumped it for him. after many different trys he got the ground vrew to jump it , they finally got it to start. they were leaving it running to charge system and then it died and even tho the battgery was up refused to start. we bought it new, a 2003, has low mileage and never a problem. does he need to rest the PC.
    just called him. it started this morning and same thing ran awhile then died. smelled a lot of exhaust. i think the fuel ratio PC has been destroyed from jumps?
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    You better hope it's not the Powertrain Module, because it could be. Somebody might have hooked jumpers up backward, that can fry computers.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited June 2010
    A battery doesn't charge very well from just letting it idle for a while; furthermore, this type of charging is very hard on the alternator--and if the battery was totally dead, it might not take a charge at all.

    So first thing I'd do is have the battery fully charged on a charger, then load test it. Your car's computers do not like voltage drops at all.
  • nypddmomnypddmom Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I have an '06 Liberty (bought new) with 97,730 miles on it. My son was driving it last night and the ESP BAS warning light came on. I went out this morning and My remote wouldn't work, I have no interior lights, no radio and the ESP BAS, the ABS and the loss of traction light is on. When you turn the key it starts right up, but all gauges peg themselves to the right then peg to the left and then go to normal. Checked all the fuses and they appear to be fine (I checked any fuse that said it had anything to do with the BCM, radio, lights, etc...I checked 7 or 8 in all).

    Any suggestions?
  • wezwewezwe Member Posts: 10
    I had written that I had a similar problem a number of times, when driving at night. (2004 Liberty) It seemed to happen, only when I was using my brights consistantly, clicking on and off, on and off numerous times. I have avoided using the brights for the last 8 months or so, and have not had a problem since. My brother in law (mechanic) told me he had a liberty come in with this problem and it had to go to the dealer, for what I believe is the BC Module ($1,000.)
  • jscott228jscott228 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to all those that posted the easy fix for the blower resistor. It is just as explained in this blog. My fan was only working on level 4 on my 2005 Liberty Renegade. I purchased the blower resistor at my local auto parts store today for $15 plus tax. Once you buy it and look at it, it's easy to identify it once you drop the glove box. Open your glove box, push in the tabs on either side of the glove box and the glove box will swing down toward the floor. The resistor is truly right in front of you with about 6 wires coming out of it. You don't have to take each wire out. It's part of a clip that slides into resistor. I'm no mechanic and this was easy. There are two small bolts, you'll see clearly enough. The one on the bottom is a little tight to get to but one user on here suggested removing two screws under the glove box and a plastic panel drops out to give you more room. I didn't need to do that, just a little patience and a small ratchet. Remove the bolts. Once you do that, gently pull the resistor out and with the wires attached, the tail end of the resistor that plugs into the electrical housing is flat and about 3 inches long. Using a little slack on the wires as you can and turn the device upside down so the red locking clip is facing up. Get a small flat head screwdriver and push it in the clip gently and wiggle it and pull it gently, it will allow the wire assembly to pull out of the resistor. The red clip will pop out, set it aside until ready to reinstall. Once done, remove the old resistor. Next plug the new resistor back into the wire assembly. Press the small red locking clip back into the same place. Next with the red clip facing down, plug the whole resistor back into the housing above the glove box, reinstall your two screws. Pull the glove box back up to click into place and you are done with all speeds of the fan working again. Whole thing took me 15 minutes. Easy, and a dealership would most likely charge $75-$100 for an hours labor plus the part. Hope that helps.
  • nypddmomnypddmom Member Posts: 2
    Hubby came home and rechecked the fuses..found two that were blown. Replaced them and all hell broke loose! Now all idiot lights are on (except the check engine), radio has power but no control over it, back hatch won't open and back hatch window won't catch shut. Locks don't work, car won't turn off even with key out of ignition, rear defroster is on and won't turn off, a/c won't turn on at all. Intrior lights stay on and the only to turn the car off is appy the brake and pop the clutch to force a stall. All of this whether the car is running or not! arrgghhh!! It's at the shop now. I hate having to take it in, we do most of the work ourselves, but this is so far beyond what we are capable of.

    Anyone have any ideas????
  • dustyone1dustyone1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Liberty, have had it to the dealor now for the second time, had to unhook both visor vanity lighting mirrors systems, blows fuse, juts got it back 3 days ago, turned into my driveway and blew the fuse again, anyone having this problem, Chrysler and the local dealor say no one else has had any problem. HELP!
  • rickc38rickc38 Member Posts: 20
    Maybe the bulb sockets shorting out? Get a meter and measure for voltage from the the metal on the truck's body behind the light cover to either side of the socket, if there's voltage present you have a short to ground. Of course the fuse will probably pop so have it setup before you put the fuse in.
  • jdean4jdean4 Member Posts: 1
    my 2005 liberty has a problem when it rains very heavily. The car is parked and not running when this happens. The horn blows continuously until the battery is touched. Then the lights will not go off, the windows do not work, and the car will NOT start. I had it jumped, but it did not help. I waited a couple of hours, and then it started. When i had it serviced it had a bunch of computer problems, but none of them made any sense.
    Does anyone else have this problem?
  • 351a351a Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 liberty everything works fine in good weather conditions but when it rains hard the lights come on by themselves while the car is parked and can't be turned off. If i dont catch it in time naturely the battery is drained when this happens and i try to start the jeep the lights go out but come back on when i shut it off.
    It also messes up the remote starter, when I try to shut off the car it will not shut off right away. I have to have the remote starter re programed all the time the horn used to go off to but i unplugged it the dealer wants to charge me an arm and a leg to try to figure it out anyone ever had this problem? If so I would sure like to know what it was and how you fixed it I would sure appreciate any advice on this matter.
  • 351a351a Member Posts: 2
    Hello, Jdean4
    I have the same vehicle with the same problems did you ever find a answer to the issues or how to get it fixed??? I am trying to get help with my vehicle its just hard to find answers from anyone. Thanks 351A
  • kvn1021kvn1021 Member Posts: 1
    2008 Liberty door lock and washer fluid problem Hi. I'm new to this, or any, forum so please forgive me if my etiquette is not right. I have a 2008 Liberty sport 4x4 with a manual transmission. Last week I was driving in 4 hi and the window washer in the front stopped working. When I got home I realized the door locks were also not operational using the key fob. I did blow the fuse for the automatic door locks. I replaced the fuse and now the doors unlock with the key fob but will not lock. The front washer is still not work as well. I can't find a bad fuse for the washer motor. The rear washer works fine. I'm guessing that the two are related since they happened at the same time. Does anyone have any suggestions? It's got over 50,000 miles on it so my warranty is not any good and I try not to take it to the dealer if I can help it.
  • rallycomrallycom Member Posts: 5
    I've started changing over to LED bulbs in my 2006 Liberty Sport (gas - 82K) and have run into some issues
    1. Tail/Stop replaced bulbs ......no issues ....plug n play
    2. Turn signal - LED in rear....... Passenger side no problem! Drivers side blink rapidly!
    I have no idea how to add a 6 ohm 25 w resistor (which would kind of defeat the purpose of reduceing heat and current drain). Any ideas?
    3. Dome lights .....two in front work great......installed the one in the cargo light and suddenly all three glow dimly all the time. Installed the OEM bulb in the cargo light .....all is good unless the cargo lamp switch is turned at the lamp, if the switch is on the front two dome lamps glow dimly.
    After reading all the posts on this thread I feel that I am very fortunate that I have had very very few issues with this Jeep (which gets used hard). I have added 3 - 100w driving lights, use 100w bulbs in the headlights, 2 - 55w backup lights, 4 - 100w strobes, 4 - 20w strobes, mirror turn signals, and run 2 - 100w Ham radios plus a motorized HF antenna. So if anyone should have electrical problems it should be me.
    I look forward to any insight y'all can share with me. I can supply anyone with the complete service manual and parts manual for the 2006 Liberty (on DVD) that wants it at no charge.
  • shistevensshistevens Member Posts: 2
    New here, not sure of the proper etiquette, so will just jump right in and hope someone can tell me. 02 Jeep liberty 3.7L V6 2WD. Sisters car -- She tells me that is sticking in 3rd, and won't shift to OD. Sometimes when it DOES go into OD, and you let off the gas, will dang near give you whiplash with the downshift, and then will not go back into OD. So I drove it, and it stayed in 3rd all this morning. On my way home, it went into OD fine, and ran about 2200 RPM's at 65-70 MPH.....Till I let off the gas and it downshifted, and wouldn't go back into OD. So, I get off at the exit, and stop, and the headlights go out, come on. Weird!! So keep driving. Poor guy in front of me must've thought I was trying to get him to pull over or something, because for the next 5 miles, on, off, on off, BRIGHT, off, on. Noticed also in the last few miles getting here that acceleration from a stop, have to really put my foot in it for it to go.....Pulled into the incline driveway at a crawl, even tho I had my foot in the gas pretty good. Found out that the prev owner had to replace the motor, and some JACKIE put the wrong computer in it, and JACKIED some stuff up, so guy had to go get a new computer, but they think he may have gotten one from salvage -- So, do I need a computer, a wiring harness?? both??? Oh, and the A/C blowere motor works on 4 only and only about 25% of the time. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP!!! I am tryin to help her out, but don't really know with this many things going on....was going to change the transmission filter as we are at a little over 153000 miles----but wony if that will possibly cause tranny problems, and possibly just a relay or bad connection!!!! THANK YOU!!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to have a look at Jeep Liberty Transmission Problems as well.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jayphi1jayphi1 Member Posts: 1
    I too had a 2008 Liberty Limited 4x4 auto tranny that had some similar sounding electrical issues. I would have windhsield wipers start either front or rear with fluid spraying with no key in the car. Sometimes just opening the door without the keyfob would trigger a weird electircal response with horn blowing yadda yadda. Mine was still under warranty and the dealer replaced the TIPM (totally integrated power module) which they say controls the electrical system and doing some quick searches the symptoms sounded similar. It's around a $200 part, not saying it's your fix but something to inquire about.
  • shistevensshistevens Member Posts: 2
    Ok, so yesterday, we replaced the transmission filter, and ended up putting in 7 additional qts of tran fluid after dropping the pan. So, think the transmission fluid must've been low to begin with. Since doing this, we haven't lost OD once, but is now shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd. We also found that the previous owner must've patched the PCV valve with a rubber 'L' boot, (why -- when the part is $4 at autozone, is beyond me)......So still shifting a little rough between 2nd and 3rd. Think maybe the loss of OD was due to low trans fluid. Drove all last nite, and no problems with the headlights. BUT now, if we shut the car doors, the doors lock automatically. Which was really bad last nite, because we got out of the car at a friends house, and were standing around in the driveway-- left keys in it, because we were right there. NOT RUNNING, KEYS OFF, and doors locked. And doors keep locking automatically....have no clue why -- and now, (we cleaned the posts on the battery also -- so reset), when we unlock the doors with the key, the alarm (horn) goes off until you hit the unlock button on the inside of the doors. Anyone have any clue as to the doors locking by themselves, and the alarm going off when unlocking the doors with the key??
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