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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

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Comments

  • gmerazgmeraz Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem on my 2009 chevy colorado 4cylinder right after first gear on a fresh start i hear like a spring noise its annoying is this normal, i took it to the dealership and they told me that they cant to anything beacuse the engine is brand new with only 1500 miles they said to wait atleast until i get 3000 mi then if the problem continious then they crack they engine open. what should i do
  • jaytee2jaytee2 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had my check engine light go on. I have an 04 4wd canyon w/ z71 pkg, 5-cyl. I took it in to autozone to check the codes and a code corresponding to a bad o2 sensor came up. I changed the gas filter (removed the neg cable) and the ck engine light went away (i have 30 k on it). However later about 200 miles later the ck engine light came on again and then went away. I have not seen the engine light come back for about 100 miles.
    Any thoughts if this is the initial signs of the bad cylinder head problem i have seen on this discussion board. Thanks.
  • lift4041lift4041 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for you responce, I was thought the same thing. I have been making sure to change my oil regularily. I guess i will look into taking care of the chain tentioner. Then we'll see if there is a difference.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    That is a sign of a poor dealer service center. If a mechanic/service manager can't diagnose a problem without codes than they are not very good at what they do. Check with another dealership.
  • dbcruedbcrue Member Posts: 6
    i had the same problem with my colorado. About the tensioner.The service center said it takes a second to pump up the racket system on the tensioner.Well that sounds like a premature wear problem. My truck sounds like a deisel starting up.They told me to stop using any other filter except delco.I tried it and it didnt change the noise at start up.Heres another problem. Has anyone noticed and abnormal wear on the inside of there front tires.The factory set them in so they will not rub the inner wheel well. The dealership should of changed this if they did the new car prep right.My front tires are at the wear bars at 12,000 miles.So spread the news maybe GM might be listening.They wont listen to my truck problems.
  • dbcruedbcrue Member Posts: 6
    dont all valves have hardened valve seat after they got rid of leaded gas.In the 70's
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "dbcrue", yes, valve seats became hardened at that point in time. However, many engines today, including those in the Canyon, have aluminum cylinder heads. That in itself, would require valve seat inserts of some kind, as aluminum is way too soft to act as a valve seat.

    In fact, my first car, a 1965 Chevy Corvair, had an aluminum engine, and valve seat inserts in the heads.
  • cruznt2cruznt2 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem. Have a 05, 63.000 miles, this is the 3rd set of tires.
    Can anything be done to correct this problem.
    What a headache this truck is........the only reason I am keeping it....am not willing to take the money loss.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "cruznt2", are your tires wearing evenly across the tread? If not, then you should have the front end alignment performed on the truck, before throwing more tires at it. If they are wearing evenly, and simply wearing out, I suggest you buy better tires.

    If it's any consolation, when I bought my '05 Canyon 4x4, it came with the 265/75/15 General Ameritech tires. Poorest excuse for a tire I've ever driven on. They were off the truck within a week (3-400 miles), and I say this in all honesty, I GAVE THEM AWAY!!
  • sgfunksgfunk Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2008 COLORADO WITH 3.7L. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR ENGINE NOISE.THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE FRAM OIL FILTER. THEY PUT ON A AC FILTER.TOOK IT BACK NOISE WAS GETTING WORSE.THEY REBUILT PART OF THE BOTTEM END.GOT IT BACK SEEMED OK.AFTER A WEEK THE NOISE WAS WORSE THAN EVER. TOOK IT BACK .THEY REBUILT THE COMPLETE BOTTEM END. GOT IT BACK SEEMED OK.A FEW DAYS LATER THE NOISE WAS BACK.THEY ORDERED AN ENGINE FROM THE ASSEMBLY LINE IN CANADA. WAS PUT IN THIS PAST THURSDAY....THE NEW ENGINE IS WORSE THAN THE OLD ONE!!! IT SOUNDS LIKE A DIESEL EVERY TIME I START IT .I LIKE THE TRUCK
  • gfcargfcar Member Posts: 2
    I have the 08 Chevy Colorado w/the 2.9L engine. Experiencing the same problems with engine knock during a cold start. Service managers and GM customer serv reps are all giving me the run around. What type of engine do you have in your new Canyon? I am also experiencing severe leaks inside the cab. Testing w/a hose on my own, I can tell the water is coming in from the back somewhere. GM and the service manager at Chevy tried to tell me the water was entering the car through a vent. Actually told me I have to keep my vent on recirculate when there is wet weather. What a joke! With all these issues occuring within the 1st year of ownership, GM wants to tear the truck apart, but not give me a new truck. Did you pursue the Lemon Law at all while dealing w/all of your issues? If anyone is having similiar issues, please let me know and contact GM or your service department, because it is definitely an issue.
  • catkencatken Member Posts: 6
    Can you get a 5 speed with the 3.7 engine. Ken
  • winmagwinmag Member Posts: 3
    If you mean a manual transmission 5 speed, I believe the answer is no. I went through all that a year ago when I was trying to get a manual transmission, and they have apparently become like photographic cameras - almost totally replaced with digitals, or in this case - automatic transmissions. Everyone tells me that no one orders those, so the factories have stopped making many of them. Well, you can get one, but only with the smaller engine, and I believe with not as many of the option packages. I ended up having to settle for the one they had in the showroom, which happened to be a 3.7 with an automatic. It had most of the options I wanted, and not many I didn't, so I settled. Shouldn't have to do that with the largest automaker, but this seems to be a society where customer service in all regards is not the priority anymore.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I retired from GM and worked at the Lansing Car Assembly which built at that time the Grand Am, Buick, and Olds versions. We ran 2 assembly lines with each line running 60 cars an hour on two shifts of at least 8 hours each. That is over 1900 cars per day. We would build about 2 cars per hour per line with manual trannies. Thats around 64 manuals out of 1900+ cars per day. We lost money on everyone of them due to the so few we built but had to keep them in the mix to conpete with the Toyota's and Honda's which those type of people tend to buy cheap models though most americans that buy domestic perfer automatics. Hope this helps you understand why GM don't make a manual in the 3.7. Those that buy the 4 banger buy it for only one thing, either they want the cheaper truck or want the most mpg's they can get.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "gfcar", regarding your water problems...There IS a ventilation system vent at both of the lower sides of the cab. They're visible between the cab and pick up box. Make sure that A) they're both in place; and B) the flaps are "closed" and/or not damaged.
  • gmerazgmeraz Member Posts: 5
    I also have a 2009 chevy colorado 2.9L iam too experiencing a spring noise from a cold start when it switches gears 1st to 2nd i know for a fact its not the tranny my guess is its coming from some part of the engine in the center closest to the cabin. could some one plz help me out i took it the dealership they said its normal cause the engine is agusting its self. but i have had brand new cars in the past and nothing like this has happened. this is not normal some one give me a hand!!!!!
  • dbcruedbcrue Member Posts: 6
    Chevy Colorado's just suck. they wont fix mine
  • gmerazgmeraz Member Posts: 5
    You have the same problem? or something else
  • shareholdershareholder Member Posts: 2
    I have this problem, I have a 2005 Colorado, front tires wear preferentially on the inside the dealer has aligned it 4 times, (3 times at my expense of $100) each time saying it will solve the problem, and it has no impact. I'm on my third set of front tires in 42k miles, first set replaced under warranty. This truck replaced a Ford Ranger that I drove 150K without ever getting an alignement, never rotated the tires and never had an issue.

    GM agreed with the dealer that the alignment should solve the problem, and that its my fault becasue I didn't rotate the second tires every 6K miles. They really haven't agreed to do anything about this, it seems its normal. I have been rotating at 6K, but there is no way this won't kill the tires early they are bald on the inside in 20K miles. I will have to take it back again, but I'm not anxious to waste another $100. Anyone had this problem successfully fixed?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Bulletin No.: 04-03-07-004B

    Date: July 22, 2005

    TECHNICAL
    Subject:
    Premature Front Tire Wear (Set Front Z Height, Toe and Rotate or Replace Front Tires)

    Models:
    2004-2005 Chevrolet Colorado
    2004-2005 GMC Canyon

    Built Prior to November 18, 2004

    Supercede:

    This bulletin is being revised to add a build date to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-07-004A (Section 03 - Suspension).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on excessive front tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.

    Cause

    On four wheel drive (4WD) models, an incorrect Z height trim setting, resulting in an excessive front sum toe-out of specification, may be the cause.

    On two wheel drive (2WD) models, an incorrect front sum toe setting may be the cause.

    Correction

    Follow the procedure below for diagnosis and repair of this condition.
    Important: Prior to performing any tire repairs, permanently record the current tire inflation on the repair order.

    1. Permanently record the tire pressure settings on the repair order.

    2. Inspect the inside edge of the front tires for excessive wear.

    ^ If the inner front edge of the tires are worn to the wear indicators, replace the front tires and continue with the next step.

    - For repair information, refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting.

    - For tire warranty information in the U.S., refer to Warranty Administration - GM New Vehicle Tire Warranty Program Bulletin Number 00-03-10-003I, dated June 2005.

    - For tire warranty information in Canada, refer to Warranty Administration - GM of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty Tire Program Bulletin Number 01-03-10-003B, dated April 2004.

    ^ If the inner front edge of the tires are not worn to the wear indicators, rotate the tires and continue with the next step.

    Important: Prior to performing any additional repairs, permanently record the following information on the repair order.

    ^ Z Height

    ^ Alignment Measurements

    ^ Fuel Level

    3. Set the inflation per the vehicle tire placard located on the driver's door.

    Important: On 2WD models, DO NOT replace the front coil spring(s) or add insulators to compensate for a low trim Z height. A lower trim Z height reading is acceptable as long as it is within specification. Refer to Trim Height Inspection Procedure.

    4. Check and adjust the vehicle Z height.

    Important: ON 2WD models, ONLY replace the front coil spring(s) if the trim Z height is too low and out of specification.

    5. ON 2WD models, ONLY replace the front coil spring(s) if the trim Z height is too low and out of specification.

    6. Check and adjust the vehicle front toe to 0.00°+/- 0.20°.

    7. Road test the vehicle in order to verify that the steering wheel is straight.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Shareholder, there is no way you should be wearing out the inside of the tires that quickly. My opinion is that the dealer, even though they are "aligning" your truck, they're not working within the limits of the specs to eliminate your problem.

    Many of the newer alignment machines have the "red" (out of spec) and "green" (within spec) scales built into their software, and many of the younger techs simply get the machine's screen "in the green", and proclaim that you're "good". They don't yet have the understanding or experience to diagnose problems accurately, and formulate a "custom" solution to your problem. Also, I'm sure that GM exerts a certain amount of leverage on them to adjust "to the green settings" regardless of what the tire wear is saying.

    Well, "good" is still wearing out your tires, so you need an "old fashioned" wheel alignment man that will read the problem, and tweak the specs a bit, to fix the situation. It would appear to me that if you're wearing the insides of the tires, you have either A) too much negative camber; B) too much toe-out; or C) a little of both. Maybe, in order to fix your particular wear problem, your truck needs to be a little in the "red" zone, and you need a front end man that know suspensions, and not just how to turn the adjustment bolts to get it in the "green".

    To be honest with you, I DO rotate my tires, but I sincerely believe it isn't the cure for everything. Look at how many cars today have staggered tire sizes, directional tread patterns, or both. Can't rotate the tires on a car like that.....
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Shiftright, that's avery interesting post, howver it lacks one important thing...The ride (trim) height measurement!

    When I first took delivery of my Canyon, I picked it up in the evening, and it was snowing pretty heavily. Therefore, I basically drove straight home, about 2-2.5 miles, and didn't realy get a feel how it handled. The next day, while driving to work, I was shocked! The truck was all over the road.

    I have a general distrust of dealers, so I took it to my trusted front end man a couple of days later, to have the alignment checked, as I felt it HAD to be off....way off! Long story short, the alignment was OK, we bumped the air pressure 5-6 lbs. and the truck was somewhat drivable.

    A few days later, I put 4 Blizzaks on the truk, as it was primarily my winter vehicle, and it was like a different truck altogether. The OE General tires were SO BAD, that a good set of snow tires made it handle 100% better!

    Anyway, do you happen to know the trim height spec? Just out of curiousity, I'd like to check mine. (It's a 4WD, Z-71) Thanks!

    As a side note, I mentioned this in another Canyon/Colorado discussion...I switched to 16" rims and 245/75/16 tires, as well as adding a rear sway bay. It handles quite well now, for a 4x4, that is.....
  • tobolobtobolob Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 08 Canyon in April and I have idle engine problems that the dealer can't seem to fix. The truck when stoped acts like its going to die and shakes. There are no lights to indicate that there is a problem but its not normal. The dealer has tried re-programing the computer two different times and said they cleaned out the trottle?? GM said that they have the latest computer program that they will have to try but ill have to wait and see. I also have had other problems such as: windsheild wipers going off whenever, seatbelt issues, and backfiring. Any info that could help my cause??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No I don't know where I'd find that measurement. Your alignment guy should be able to find it though in his spec sheets.
  • exnavysnipeexnavysnipe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 08 colorado 5cyl 4x4. the engine seems to not shift from low to drive. the engine is very loud and truck will only creep. At times it seems to drop to neutral. All this happens at start up before the engine warms up. It will be fine the rest of the day. I had it in to the dealer twrice, but they say it is normal or that the computer says it is ok. :confuse:
  • jeepfan6jeepfan6 Member Posts: 1
    Hi!
    Have you tried with Mobile 1 5-30W fully synthetic oil. My noise disapeared!
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Not saying this is the issue, but the torque converter has a lot to do with your shifting and ability to get up to speed.
  • slumpcone2001slumpcone2001 Member Posts: 4
    I have had the same problem. When I would come to a light my rmps would drop to about 400 and shake. It had 36700 miles out of warranty. They said it was still within the specs and since out of warranty they could noth. $300 they clean throttle and fuel rail and reset computer. 15,000 miles later it began to stall at light about once a week. I refused to take it in, but when it stalled turning left in traffic I had no choice. I told GM Service that I would not pay 300 dollars every 15,000 miles. This time only 89 dollars. They claim that they could not find anything wrong with it because no check engine light on. I also noticed when it was having these problems if you put it into neutral when getting on the highway the rmps would bounce between 400 and 1200.
  • slumpcone2001slumpcone2001 Member Posts: 4
    Now my 2007 Colorado 2wd 3.7L 81,000 Miles is loosing some coolant. About a half of gallon

    I am going to wait and see if it continues. Before I take it to the dealer.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    It'll stop pretty soon as there won't be any left. :shades:
  • tobolobtobolob Member Posts: 2
    The dealer tried to calm the rough idle down about 5 times by reloading the computer. After 5 times they said that there is NO fix for the problem and that it is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. I don't think there is enough money for GM to put fourth the effort to help their customers. I guess the lawyers will have to see if its a problem or not. My truck looks cool but is a pile of crap. The lighting doesn't work right, my window wipers go off whenever they feel like it, and now the truck has a rattle sound in the engine when driving.
  • chevyman29chevyman29 Member Posts: 1
    hi i bought a 2005 colorado with 61,000 miles on it i had it 1 week then the motor wasnt idling right i brought it to chevy and they said there was a recall on all the 3.5 5 cyl motors they had to put a new cly head on it. so if you know anybody else that has this problem gm has to fix it for free 10 years or 100,000 miles on it at first they were trying to keep it quiet but they could not. and just hope they dont break the cam sensor like they did on mine . that took a week to get that part.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Everyone who own them at the time was sent a letter on the problem so it is well known and a few here have had the problem fixed.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    I received "the letter", and it's safely tucked away in my truck's glovebox. Hopefully, I won't need to use it, however at the rate I put mileage on the truck, I'll never get anywhere near 100,000 miles on it within the 7 year period.

    My truck is 4 years old this month, and I'm just approaching 26,000 miles. Knock on wood, it's still running well.....
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    My nephews 2005 5-cylinder Canyon has been troublefree thus far.
  • puregreenpuregreen Member Posts: 24
    I just had the code come up on my 05 rado and from what I understand everyone says t more than likley the head, goes dealer monday any recomdations on how to aproch them if they tell me its the head and try to charge for it only has 60,000 miles.
  • hurtsjhurtsj Member Posts: 1
    did you ever get any answers on this? my canyon has this exact same issue and i was wondering what you did or if your problem has been resolved?
    we are off all warranty now and i am worried this is going to lead to bigger and more expensive problems.

    please help jaytee2
  • toofast1toofast1 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 07 colo. ext.cab 4x4 w/265/75/16 Decoata AT's from Pep boys w/10,400 miles. (hard).. Tire ware very good @ never rotated. 32psi ft./30psi rear. Also have 2 full turns in on each torsion adj. bolt. Has factory alignment. Drives good.Runs good. Has 3.7 L. Truck came fully loaded. No problem's yet. Getting rear air bags soon.
  • longrunner1longrunner1 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2004 Canyon, 178,xxx miles since new. If you start getting low idle/ check engine light with "low idle speed" code after 30k miles or so, clean the throttle valve assembly. I clean mine every 50k. Carbon buildup in the assembly changes the position of the air valve at idle and throws the idle circuit off. You need a flat blade screwdriver, a 1/4 in. rachet with 6 in. extension, a 10 mm socket, a can of throttlebody cleaner, and a paper towel. Remove the aircleaner top (3 snaps), the cleaner to intake pipe (2 hoseclamps), the oil vapor chamber (big plastic box on top of engine, 2 bolts and a vent hose). this leaves the throttle assembly with 4 bolts and a wire connector. Remove and clean (wipe, don't just spray) the passageway thoroughly, making sure you open the valve with your fingers and clean the seating area. Re-assemble. iIt takes 25-35 minutes and 5 bucks; not even worth calling the dealer for. If you're going to own a truck, you should be able to do some of this stuff for yourself; you can't expect the dealers to wipe your butt for you. If you want that kind of service, buy a BMW or Mercedes- the pricetag will reflect your right to have the ashtray emptied for you on demand.
    On Tires, I burn a set a year - figured out they had the wrong alignment specs from the factory on the second set- a good shop is one where they know how to adjust the specs to make the alignment right; my guy made his own adjustments and I haven't had an issue since.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    Do a search on this discussion thread...Go back to late 2006-early 2007. Someone posted a copy of the letter that GM sent out to all registered Canyon/Colorado owners. This letter explained what GM will do for you, as well as any exclusions.

    With respect to the tire/alignment discussions, I decided to put my truck on the alignment rack, since it hasn't been on one since it was a couple of days old. All that was required was a slight toe adjustment, as the caster/camber were OK. The truck always drove well, once I got the OE General tires off of it, and was still doing so. However, after 4 years to "settle in", I wanted to check things once again.
  • harveykarismaharveykarisma Member Posts: 7
    I have an 07 Colorado 4 cylinder, 4wd. I've had no problems with the engine, altho the lack of low end torque is annoying. Shoulda bought the 4.10 rear end. With regards to alignment, the truck always tended to wander a little, so I finally got off my lazy hind end and took it in for a check. Man, what a difference. Guess GM doesn't do the greatest job aligning them. The tow in was way off. I suspect it's been that way right along. I also had them put some new shocks on it, which also made a big difference. I intend to add a rear sway bar. In 07 this was not even an option.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "Longrunner", you're suggesting that an owner actually perform some maintenance on their vehicles???? Wow, there's a novel concept!

    :D:D
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "Harvey", I added a rear sway bar to my truck this past summer. While it didn't turn it into a "corner carver", it certainly did help out.
  • puregreenpuregreen Member Posts: 24
    I took to the dealer and they said it was the throttle body and it needed replaced, they said they would do it under warranty but was not sure if it was covered or not, just wondering if that item is covered, i didnt get a bill. But we will see if the light comes back on or not.
  • tdb1272tdb1272 Member Posts: 2
    i have an 05 colorado. engine light came on three months ago. i do most of the maintenence on the truck myself, never had real problems with it. Started running rough at idle. replacing plugs and ignition coils didn't fix the problem. I took it to the dealer finally and they said the head needed to be replaced ($3000). Never got a letter in the mail or i would have brought it in. They don't care because the truck has 106650 miles on it so now they don't have to fix it. It is a work truck that i put alot of miles on. If i had taken to the dealer when the light came on three months ago i would have been under 100,000. I don't think its right. The head was like a time bomb that i wasn't aware of. Still owe for two years on it. And when i got it back from diagnostic work , the ABS light was on and the speedo doesn't work at all. So i took the truck back today and they want to charge $300 to fix, when i know its their fault. the mileage loged on the service paper work is what the truck still registers after driving at least 200 miles today. how can they not be responsible. Oh well , going back tomorrow to work up the chain. Never will i buy another GM vehicle. :mad:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    So because you didn't take it in it is GM's fault. Do you think they put the light on there just to look pretty? The head problem has been a known issue for a couple years at least but nothing would have been done unless it reared its head. For most of us this wasn't a problem. Why not get a Toyota truck next time as they have been quietly buying them back due to rusting frames. So you see no ones truck/vehicle is without problems. There are just to many parts to not have something go wrong. Admit, it was your thoughtlessness that is costing you the money so suck it up and get it fixed and take it as an expensive lesson, when the light comes on get it to the dealer. :cry:
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    "D", that's a bit cold......but true. When the light goes on, 99.9% of the time, it's for a legitimate reason. Putting off a trip to the dealer for a few days is one thing, because sometimes a light will set for something simple like a loose gas cap, and it will clear the code after a few starts. But 3 MONTHS?? That's foolish.
  • jwebbojwebbo Member Posts: 1
    Where would I find this letter as I am having check engine light problems with my 06 colorado and dealer tells me it is cylinder misfire and needs new cylinder head.
    truck has 54,000 miles
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Why was that a bit cold. Someone needs to take the person aside and explain the facts of life so to speak. When you wait 3 months you lose a lot of respect here and need someone to tell it like it is.
  • tdb1272tdb1272 Member Posts: 2
    i guess your right. The days of working on your own vehicle are over. Working 6 days a week sometimes 12 hours a day leaves sunday to do maintenance on vehicles. Why wouldn't everyone want to pay $90 to the dealer to tell you whats wrong when they will do it at auto zone for free. Last time i checked there wasnt' a CEL code that puts out a cylinder head defect from the manufacturer warning. i should realisticly get another 100000 out of that truck without major engine problems. Why shouldn't i expect a company thats been in business better than 70 years to stand by their product without loopholing out of responsibility. I guess with all that taxpayer bailout money , they just don't really have to give a hoot. Bad business decisions should not be rewarded so bad business decisions can continue to be made. Lets reward them so they can continue with business as usual. 6000 miles doesn't remove responsibility for poor quality parts that they supposedly have taken responsibility for.
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