Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My truck is primarily a winter vehicle for me, and as such, I wasn't putting a lot of miles on it to begin with. However, I retired last year, and instead of driving it 50 miles a day, back and forth to work, I probably now drive it 50 miles a week.
My truck was 4 years old last month, and just turned 26,000 miles. It may get another 4-5000 miles before it hits the 7 year mark....What warranty then?????
If the problem started months go, and the vehicle was under warranty at that time, then it's still up to the dealer/GM to cover the costs, until that truck is "right".....
Also, does that dealership HAVE to be the one that replaces the parts, or can I do them myself when and if it comes down to the lemon law?
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
The other side of the coin is this....I take care of the truck! It's not a refrigerator, you plug it in and forget about till it stops running....
I use the truck primarily for winter driving, so I wash it as frequently as possible in winter, especially the underside, to keep the road salt from accumulating. When I rotate the tires, I flush the front discs/calipers with clean water, and I pull the rear drums and rinse any accumulated salt from inside there, and blow dry with a leaf blower. I change the oil regularily. I use Red Line fuel system cleaner regularily to prevent carbon deposits.
So far, it appears that my methods are working...If you and your wife like the truck, buy it!
One good habit is to run the heater through the vents now and then to dry them out.
I've heard that changing the cabin filter (if your vehicle has one) might help but I can't verify that one way or the other. Unless it proves to be moldy itself, I rather doubt it would help.
You should read the code set by the ECM. If it has anything to do with the throttle this is probably what happened.
You should load test your battery or if it is the original, just replace it, reset the codes and see what happens. Don't replace any parts yet.
I have an '04 Canyon 2wd 5cyl 5mt with 112,000 miles. I have come to realize that most of the electrical issues with these trucks such as coils, blower resistors & blowers, switches, sensors, door electrical problems, lighting problems, idle speed, check engine, and some no start issues can all be caused by the high amperage flows that are created by low system voltages.
There seems to be (my opinion) two main causes. First is the marginal capacity Delco battery. If you are willing to eliminate the battery enclosure a much larger 850cca group 65 battery (Costco $80.) will fit in the stock retainer system. If you don't idle for long periods with the blower on high or other unusual high electrical demand (at idle) a battery upgrade may be all that is required. If that isn't enough you could consider changing from the stock 100amp alternator to the upgraded 125amp alternator used on the 08-09 4&5cyl trucks which seems to have resolved all these problems. Remember that no alternator will provide much output at idle speed.
Good Luck,
Russ
I believe you would be best off buying and installing a complete used '08-09 engine from a wrecked truck. They have bigger displacement, more horsepower & torque, better economy, and larger alternators. You might have a couple of small challenges on the exhaust side but it would probably be worth it overall. I am considering just this for my California emission '04 5cyl 5mt 2wd.
Also keep in mind that any qualified automotive machine shop can repair these heads. Loose valve seats have been around since the first aluminum race heads came out and an experienced machinist can easily test and repair them better than new.
Russ
The only changes I'm sure of are: A. Upgrading the alternator output wiring & maybe the mega fuse. B. There may be differences in the exhaust port shape/location that may require the use of the later model manifold & cat's.
Looks like an easy one day install to me.
Russ
I called the dealer and was told that my VIN was not subject to a warranty extension at this time. I assume it was built sometime in 2006. I also called a HQ cutomer service number they gave me and was told the same.
You can bet that I will be making some more calls and inquiries before my warranty ends.
Any suggestions?Was this problem corrected on newer 06 models?