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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

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  • dsmith424dsmith424 Posts: 1
    My 2004 Canyon has started to make a noticable hissing sound instead of the usual turbo whine liken noise lately and I have also noticed the torque has been reduced as well,I apologize i dont know much about trucks and im trying to learn on my own.I really cant afford mechanic shops and i have some tools so any wise willing persons out there please help.thank you!
  • I read you message and found I have the same problem with a lot of the same tried repairs and still cant fix it. What did you do to finally fix it.
  • The light finally stayed off after I changed the MAP sensor.
  • bob88kimbob88kim Posts: 1
    Our gorgeous '05 Canyon with THIRTY-FOUR THOUSAND miles requires replace of cylinder head. GMC issued extended warranty to 7 years/100,000 miles--WHICH SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL and not an extended warranty. We've been through the GMC Customer Service saga from hell for almost two months (and without our truck), passed off from one "District Specialist" to the next, only to end up with them covering a mere 50% of THEIR $1,800 MANUFACTURING DEFECT.

    IT GETS WORSE: The replacement cylinder head that the dealership received from GM WAS ALSO DEFECTIVE!!! We paid $41K for this truck, bought it because our last GMC had 180,000 miles on it with no major problems, have supported GMC religiously for 20 years, only to find out that they're willing to lose a loyal customer at the cost of $900. Absolutely UNACCEPTABLE customer service, especially from GMC, and they've made it perfectly clear that SELLING is their number one priority and not customer service. What happened to their customer service "taskforce"? We will not be part of the "GMC Family" again until someone at GMC takes responsibility for reimbursing us for this nightmare and we will continue to warn others about it in every forum possible. Do the RIGHT THING, GMC, and back up your product so that we can be pro-GMC again.
  • olddog74olddog74 Posts: 2
    The noise you are hearing is the timing chain & it is common on 3.5 for the chain to make noise when first started . You are ok as long as the noise stops as soon as the oil pressure comes up but if you are hearing this noise while driving you need to get it checked out very soon
  • olddog74olddog74 Posts: 2
    Check the bottom of your exhaust manifold where the catalytic converter is attached , they are bad for breaking in that area & that could be your noise & your torque loss
  • 2004 canyon: 3.5 at idle: truck sounds like a washing machine with marbles in it; about 1500rpm; the sound quiets down: does not affect shifting or engine power or torque while driving onbly 2 idle: Need your input thanks savinhill bill
  • Have a 2006 chevy Colorado z71- some days won't start - wait 10-15 minutes- finally start up- read several complaints on this about the colorados. I would think this would be a security issue and a insurance issue if they knew . Being there is so many issues with this, is there a recall as there should be or do we indure the cost of repair?
  • Can't find my owners manual & don't really trust the dealer.

    The question is can or should a full synthetic motor oil (mobil 1 for instance) be used in the 5cyl engine without detrimental effects?
  • Hello Everyone, I'm new to this forum. I have had nothing but problems with my 2006 Chevy Colorado as well, from waiting the 10-20 minutes to start up, it also has a kill switch which I HATE! I'm currently having electric problems, and problems go on, does anyone know if these trucks are in recall or is there a GM customer service on this thread that can help me with more accurate info, it's getting really frustrating, I keep taking it to the mechanic and it just keeps getting worst, HELP PLEASE!!!!! my email address is gloriajarredondo@gmail.com
  • russ95russ95 Posts: 16
    Gloria,
    All of my '04 Canyon various electrical problems were resolved when I replaced the very expensive and very inadequate original battery with a much larger Group 65-850 battery from Costco. It is way too big to fit in the factory enclosed case but fits perfectly on the base and in the original position. Since I installed it on 5-30-09 I have only replaced 2 light bulbs! Zero electric problems. The truck has been used hard for over 150,000 miles including lots of towing trailers up to 4,500# up very steep mountains so they can be decent trucks. No serious mechanical repairs ever. See my previous post #695.
    Russ
  • Hello,
    I took my chevy colorado in to victory chevrolet dealership in petaluma california at 70000 miles right after buying it from the dealership with cracked manifold-they replaced it and the head through GM,is there a 100,000 mile warranty after that from GM? it just cracked again,i took it to a pep boys repair station-they inspected it and found that the only chrome bolt had backed off,i am now looking at another replacement at 167000 miles,Pep Boys said it cracked because the new bolt backed off,can you help
  • k9kopperk9kopper Posts: 1

    So, if I had known then what I know now..... I guess I should kiss the ground and thank the Lord. I have an 05 Ext. cab Colorado z71 4wd. Everyone who sees it thinks it's brand new they don't believe it's an 05. A point I am proud of. 6 years ago (approx.) I picked up a tap in the engine. I continued to drive it until 8 March 2014. My "poor baby" suffered a myocardial infarction and it was unable to be resuscitated. sniff The number 3 cylinder is out. So I now have a beautiful well kept truck with no engine. Well the engine's still in it but you get the idea. I have 199,000 miles on this truck. I replaced the starter a few years ago, replaced the front brake pads (they didn't need it and rotors were fine) at 101,000, replaced the rear brake pads last year (they didn't need it) and replaced the right front hub assembly the end of January 2014. It was a good truck for me. I had considered putting a used engine in it but after reading all these horror stories I don't want to spend the money on an engine that seems to be extremely unreliable. What do y'all think?

  • timsuedetimsuede Posts: 1
    I doubt anyone will see this but I'm fed up. Have a 04 Canyon 2.8. Bought it from my dad. He's not very mechanical. He started having a rough idle engine shakes real bad at 55k had it in the shops no one could figure it out. Well I took it from him 2 years ago it has 116 k on it now and still does it if not worse I've had it at the dealerships local shops. No codes are kicked but it all not right engine shakes so much the front grill squeals and everything else. Steering will vibrates like crazy. I've done everything I can think   But as I read all the posts on different sites I've read about head issues and valve seats wrong. And I guess because my dad didn't know about the recalls ect now the truck will never get fix correct. I use to love gm chevy. But after this I don't know if I will ever go that way again. I will make sure everyone knows about this. I don't think it's right. I can't keep dropping money for no answers. And the thing is I know gm knows what the problem is. I've read to many posts about the same thing and no one having an answer to fix this problem. If anyone has any idea I would greatly appreciate it. I've done everything u would expect tune up throttle body clean clean maf senseor checked camshaft I've dropped a lot of money in to this truck cause it was my dads and I wanna keep it. And I'm getting no where with this problem. The way this truck has been maintained before I got it and since I got it there is no reason I shouldn't get another 80 k out of it but whatever is causing this engine shake at idle is causing problems. Gas mileage sucks lights keep going out cause of the shaking I'm sick of paying dealerships and shops to diagnose and come back with no answers. Or answers that it's going to cost a grand to check this and this ect but no promise that's the problem. Ugg. Gm is covering something up with these 04 inline 4s. If a recall is done it dosnt matter how old the truck is if it didn't get done it should get done no matter the age of the truck. Not everybody is notified about them till its to late 
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    You might go to this WEBSITE and click on "repair shops". If there's one in your area you can be sure that the technician there is very well trained to figure this out. Sounds like too much guessing and not enough fixing has been going on with your truck. A cylinder leakdown test and a thorough scanning of all real-time data should reveal the possible cause for the engine shake.

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  • ddroot56ddroot56 Posts: 2
    I have a 2010 Colorado with a 2.9L that throws a P0013 code and sounds like a diesel at an idle. I replaced the exhaust cam sensor , vat actuator , changed the oil , and reset the codes. it runs great until the second time you start it then it's right back to noisy idle. first start after reset you can drive for hours and it runs great at all speeds including idle... just don't shut it off. any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    Your or a tech might need to check all the wiring from the oil control valve back to the PCM. Also, the PCM could be damaged.

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  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Having read all 24 pages of this post I offer my sympathy to my fellow Colorado owners. GM has really laid an egg with this one. I purchased my 4wd Colorado new in 2008 with the 2.9 and 5 speed. It now has only 40,000 miles and is already starting with the problems outlined here, the worst of which is the dreaded P0017. I have changed the vvt solenoid, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor but the code still persists. I therefore conclude the timing chain is stretched and/or the cam advance/retard sprocket is bad. There are videos on youtube showing how to replace these and every body who has done one says the best way is to pull the engine. If you want to change the balance shaft chain and tensioner the engine has to come out anyway since that chain is in the back. This is totally unacceptable for a vehicle with 40,000 miles that has had good maintenance.
    This engine has always had a lean surge even under full throttle acceleration. I even entertained the idea of putting two side draft webers on it, but seeing all the basic design flaws I now am abandoning any idea of improving it. Next question is what other engine would bolt up to my 5 speed and transfer case. I would dearly love to have a 327-300 horse under my hood instead of this 2.9 boat anchor. I know they built a few 5.3 trucks but they were all automatics. Are the 5.3 and 2.9 the same bellhousing pattern? Is the 5.3 crank drilled for a pilot bushing? We don't have emission inspections in my county so I'm not worried about that. Does anybody have any other suggestions for an engine swap? I have done swaps in the past so I'm not afraid to tackle the cutting and welding but would like to keep it to a minimum.
    BTW: I also have a P0411, P2430, P2431...all related to "secondary air flow." Who knows what the next code will be. Shoulda bought the Tacoma.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    marksee said:

    Having read all 24 pages of this post I offer my sympathy to my fellow Colorado owners. GM has really laid an egg with this one. I purchased my 4wd Colorado new in 2008 with the 2.9 and 5 speed. It now has only 40,000 miles and is already starting with the problems outlined here, the worst of which is the dreaded P0017.

    So it's going on ten years old and only 40,000 miles. Does this idle a lot putting time on it but not distance?

    P0017 means that the PCM is seeing the synchronization of the camshaft and camshaft sensors fall out of tolerance. The possible reasons for that code are pretty straight forward but essentially the system turns the variable valve timing on and unlocks the camshaft from it's "0" position and then when the cam starts to fall retarded it cannot be advanced to the desired position.
    marksee said:


    I have changed the vvt solenoid, cam position sensor, and crank position sensor but the code still persists. I therefore conclude the timing chain is stretched and/or the cam advance/retard sprocket is bad.

    What code(s) set if you turn the truck off for at least ten minutes and disconnect the VVT solenoid and then restart ? You should get a P0013 of course but are any others generated?

    As far as throwing the sensors at it a P0016 is NOT caused by a failing sensor. The computer looks at the signals from the crank and cam sensors and constantly judges the quality of the signal that they generate. A flawed sensor signal results in a code related to that sensor, not a valve timing system performance code.

    Replacing the VVT solenoid would be a plausible step if you don't have any other way to test the system. Proper testing would have you capturing the scan data in a snap shot while monitoring the VVT actuator command along with the cam and crank sensor signals on an oscilloscope.
    marksee said:


    There are videos on youtube showing how to replace these and every body who has done one says the best way is to pull the engine. If you want to change the balance shaft chain and tensioner the engine has to come out anyway since that chain is in the back. This is totally unacceptable for a vehicle with 40,000 miles that has had good maintenance.

    Could you expand on how you maintained the vehicle. What was the mileage and time between services? What engine oil did you use, please be specific.
    marksee said:


    This engine has always had a lean surge even under full throttle acceleration. I even entertained the idea of putting two side draft webers on it, but seeing all the basic design flaws I now am abandoning any idea of improving it.

    That engine will run plenty rich on full acceleration, so long as everything is working correctly. If it has a lean air/fuel ratio it is pretty straight forward to test and prove why and then fix the problem. Besides, hacking in a set of Webbers would make the vehicle worse to drive, not better.
    marksee said:


    Next question is what other engine would bolt up to my 5 speed and transfer case. I would dearly love to have a 327-300 horse under my hood instead of this 2.9 boat anchor. I know they built a few 5.3 trucks but they were all automatics. Are the 5.3 and 2.9 the same bellhousing pattern? Is the 5.3 crank drilled for a pilot bushing? We don't have emission inspections in my county so I'm not worried about that.

    Actually you do, OBDII isn't a diagnostic system, it is an emissions program designed into the vehicle, you just don't have regulated program and your truck s failing that test which is why the light is coming on.
    marksee said:


    Does anybody have any other suggestions for an engine swap? I have done swaps in the past so I'm not afraid to tackle the cutting and welding but would like to keep it to a minimum.

    The task of transplanting an engine with something other than what was in there isn't practical. That isn't saying that it cannot be done but mismatched components and software will make doing it extremely difficult unless you can pull all of the required components from a donor car and have custom software written to correct vehicle identification number mismatches.
    marksee said:


    BTW: I also have a P0411, P2430, P2431...all related to "secondary air flow." Who knows what the next code will be. Shoulda bought the Tacoma.

    Related to the Secondary AIR system is true, however the P2430 and P2431 are specific to the voltage signal seen at the PCM from the secondary air pressure sensor and can be caused by a circuit issue, a failing sensor, exhaust restriction or a bad/failing secondary air control valve. What do you see reported in scan data when the system is commanded to run using either bi-directional controls or running the forced system test? What do you see when the system is not commanded on? Do you hear the air pump run when using bi-directional control inputs? When measuring the pressure sensor signal, reference voltage and ground, do the voltages fall inside the expected ranges and does the signal voltage match what is displayed in scan data?

  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Thanks for your response but I fail to see a reason to throw additional diagnostic time and parts money at this engine when the next 40k mi is just likely to see the valve seats falling out of the head. What I want is a reliable engine with a carburetor. Chevy makes LS components to use conventional distributors and carbs with those engines, my friend has one in his 55 Chevy, but it would be a ton cheaper to use a 350 if it would bolt up to the Colorado trans. The PCM can go to the bone yard along with the elcrapo engine attached to it.
    To answer your question, no it has never idled for long periods. My annual mileage is spread between 3 vehicles so none of them get many miles. I have never seen the change oil warning on the dash of the Colorado. It gets done around 3-4k, and a new filter every time. I use WalMart super tech 5-30 oil.
    So can you help answer my question, what will bolt up to either my bellhousing or my trans?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    I think you'd have to swap out the tranmission as well, as that's computer-controlled as well. So you'll have to deal with trans mounts, engine mounts and altering the driveshaft,too. And I"m not sure what your ABS is going to think about all this, or how to get your speedometer and gauges to work.

    Most hot rods you see have gutted the entire vehicle.

    You'd be much better off getting a reman engine and keeping your truck stock otherwise.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    edited October 9
    marksee said:

    Thanks for your response but I fail to see a reason to throw additional diagnostic time and parts money at this engine when the next 40k mi is just likely to see the valve seats falling out of the head.

    That's one of the reasons that a remanufactured engine would be a wise choice.
    marksee said:



    What I want is a reliable engine with a carburetor. Chevy makes LS components to use conventional distributors and carbs with those engines, my friend has one in his 55 Chevy, but it would be a ton cheaper to use a 350 if it would bolt up to the Colorado trans. The PCM can go to the bone yard along with the elcrapo engine attached to it.

    Here is a wiki list of bolt patterns.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_GM_bellhousing_patterns

    The Colorado uses the ATLAS "Atlas family engines use a unique bellhousing pattern which no other GM motors share."

    So what are you going to do with the instrument cluster, the radio, the ABS system and the body computer? (BTW is this 4WD? If so add the transfer case and controller to that list)
    Unfortunately along with the PCM these other components create virtual systems that simply won't operate correctly if at all if one of the portions of the system (the PCM) is missing.
    marksee said:


    To answer your question, no it has never idled for long periods. My annual mileage is spread between 3 vehicles so none of them get many miles. I have never seen the change oil warning on the dash of the Colorado. It gets done around 3-4k, and a new filter every time. I use WalMart super tech 5-30 oil.

    About that Walmart oil.
    http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/supertech.htm

    Your Colorado needed an oil approved for GM's 6094M specification which in 2011 was superseded by the dexos1 specification. As you can see by the labeling it states suitable for, but that doesn't equal meets the specifications in fact it falls short of the specification based on the testing that was done in 2013. We have no way to know how far off of the spec the oil was before that date. The majority of the failures that we have seen are due to the use of engine oils that actually didn't meet the vehicle specifications.
    marksee said:


    So can you help answer my question, what will bolt up to either my bellhousing or my trans?

    No and that's because it is far easier to repair it correctly than it is to deal with all of the other systems that would also be impacted by attempting the swap. FWIW, it's not that I couldn't do if I chose to try I just have much better things to do with my time since I know how much work would go into completing the project beyond just slamming an engine and a complete manual driveline in.

  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Wow, a reman engine every 40k...I don't think so. My trans is a manual 5 speed. No computer control required.
    Thanks for the link to the bellhousing patterns. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy to see the Atlas is a unique pattern but at least now I know. That led me to transmission links and I find my truck is an Aisin AR5, or some say MA5. There are a ton of possibilities for hooking it to other engines.
    http://web.archive.org/web/20130527131749/http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740
    First I will try a motor flush and change to the GM spec oil as you recommend.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,855
    A reman is still your best bet here. You'll spend more on an engine swap and get less in performance and fuel economy for it IMO, even if you figure out all the electronics. Besides, it's totally illegal, although unless your state has smog inspections you may not get caught.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    marksee said:

    Wow, a reman engine every 40k...I don't think so. My trans is a manual 5 speed. No computer control required.
    Thanks for the link to the bellhousing patterns. Doesn't give me a warm fuzzy to see the Atlas is a unique pattern but at least now I know. That led me to transmission links and I find my truck is an Aisin AR5, or some say MA5. There are a ton of possibilities for hooking it to other engines.
    http://web.archive.org/web/20130527131749/http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740
    First I will try a motor flush and change to the GM spec oil as you recommend.

    Woah, try testing as I described first. Disconnect the VVT solenoid and start the truck. P0013 should set with the circuit fault unless you still have the original solenoid which you could plug in as a dummy load. See what code sets with the VVT disabled.

    Do not attempt the motor flush. Any debris that has gotten into the actuator will be slung to the outside of the assembly away from the bleed port in the center. There is no way to get it out short of removal and disassembly which really means you are replacing it.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    OK, will try disconnecting it. I still have the original sol.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Plugged in the old sol and now getting a P0014.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    I see somebody on here had problems with water in the cab. You probably had the same issue I had, there was an 1/8 inch gap between the cargo light and the body! When it rained water poured it. I removed the light, rolled a rope of dum-dum for around it and reinstalled it. Problem solved. Unbelievable GM would do such a thing. It's like they want the floor to rust out so they can sell you a new truck. Same with the frame. It's a full box frame which is very strong and good. Only thing is they didn't put any drain holes in the bottom, only holes in the middle of the sides. So guess what...water comes in thru the holes in the sides and lays in the bottom half of the frame. I was doing something else under the truck with air and I noticed water coming out when I shot air into the frame openings. Got to checking and found the frame laying half full of water. I cut triangular holes in the inside of the frame rails and you can't believe what I took out. (After I dried it.) Pieces of rust scale as big as the palm of your hand! Got it all scraped out and sprayed Fluid Film in there so it's protected now. I'm just appalled at the amount of bare metal I found under that truck. Thought I had it all rust proofed but never dreamed the inside of the frame would rust away. Check yours before it's too late.
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