Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Duramax Diesel Questions

123578

Comments

  • gmctechgmctech Member Posts: 1
    The turbo oil "feed" is actually from #4 cam journal, not crank. Turbo can be damaged by spun cam bearing blocking oil port starving it of oil, however it doesn't go the other way. Oil from turbo drains back to the pan. Glad you met a good tech and have had good luck after your repair though.
  • durataxduratax Member Posts: 5
    I have been arguing with GM about a cracked piston. In their service memo ID 2347464 they are dowining using Aftermarket Power Up devices. This includes a bunch of units that can harm the Izusu motor. They claim that all (at least the dealer I am working with) will harm their engine. The fact is that on pages 10 and 11 in their bulletin, they make reference to a (only one) cracked piston is due to an injector malfunction. My truck had one cracked piston in one cylinder that they first diagnosed as a bad injector in that cylinder. Now they are saying that the injector is ok and they are going to re-use it in a remanufactured motor. I feel they are trying to blame my Banks unit for an engine failure they are responsible for at a cost of $11,000.00. I have confronterd their service department, Banks and the BBB to resolve the issue. I have run the Banks unit for 4+ years with no adverse affects as I pay close attention to the monitor. It is important to know the duramax has 85,000 miles but has been emacuately maintained and cared for. I think we need to question some of their extened warranty policys and make sure they are dealing square. This is not a dis to the manufacture but a local problem. The minute they see a third party device they immediately discount any type of warranty. As long as they are used properly they can be useful. If they are affraid of the capabilities of the engine, they need to source something other than Izuzu. Kent
  • jillyo5jillyo5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Sierra Duramax Diesel and have had some pretty bad luck. First sign of problem...I thought I ran out of fuel, but the fuel gauge showed I had over 1/4 tank. I called the tow truck and they said they would bring me diesel. Before he added it to the tank, I asked him if he was sure it was diesel, and he said yes that he had to make an extra stop at the gas station to fill the gas can. After priming, I was able to drive it home (3 blocks). I called the GMC dealer to have it serviced, and I drove it the next morning about 10 miles. It seemed to run fine even on the freeway. They informed me that afternoon that the fuel pump went out. They drained the tank and replaced the pump. They could not get the truck to run after that. After 5 wks of being in the shop, the service person I was dealing with called me from his cell phone and informed me that phone calls were taped, so I needed to talk to him on his cell phone. He asked me if I happened to put gasoline in the tank. I told him NEVER. I said his tech must have done it when they refilled the tank because it was obviously running when I dropped it off. Long story short...I've had my truck back for a year now and it's been running like crap ever since. It's been in the shop at least 6 times since that incident. When they so called fixed my truck, they said they had to replace the injectors, glow plugs, fuel pump, flush out the entire system, blah blah blah....it ended up being $6500 to repair, but he somehow was able to get my warranty to cover everything. All I had to pay is the $100 deductible. My truck is once again in the shop after just getting it back a few weeks ago for the fuel sensor going out. Now they said they need to replace glow plugs again, and there is an oil pan leak between the engine and transmission and they need to replace the oil pan gasket. To get to that, they said they need to remove two cross member plates, one is a factory part, the other is an aftermarket part which will not be covered by warranty to remove. Does this sound normal? I know I'm a girl, and don't know alot about diesel trucks, but is my truck ruined forever from them screwing up? I am frustrated and don't know what to do.
  • durataxduratax Member Posts: 5
    I cannot imagine having to replace the glow plugs again. That is just something that is rarely done. I think you should confront the tow company if you think they put gas in your truck. If the dealer didnt find it, they are not very good.. Most of the GM service groups have limited expertise with diesel trrucks. It is an Izuzu motor and requires many special tools.. Not sure where you live but you should find a good diesel mechanic and get his advice. Sounds like the dealer is not competant>> K
  • durataxduratax Member Posts: 5
    I cannot imagine having to replace the glow plugs again. That is just something that is rarely done. I think you should confront the tow company if you think they put gas in your truck. If the dealer didnt find it, they are not very good.. Most of the GM service groups have limited expertise with diesel trrucks. It is an Izuzu motor and requires many special tools.. Not sure where you live but you should find a good diesel mechanic and get his advice. Sounds like the dealer is not competant>> K
  • youngdmechyoungdmech Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at trading my 99 dodge cummins and buying an 03 gmc d-max 71,000 miles was wondering on some input, what to watch for, the good, the bad, the fuel millage and so one all input would help thanks!!
  • evansdadevansdad Member Posts: 7
    Hey buddy I bought a 2004 gmc dmax and it is awsome uve never had a truck with such power mine has 74000 miles right now and ity feels like new I paid 18,900 for mine its a 4 door alot of room for my wife and 3 kids I know there are alot of storys on this forum about these trucks having trouble but ive had and heard nothing but great things out of these trucks my freind has a 2001 dually dmax and pulls a racecar and you dont even know its back there make the right choice and buy the truck have a good day.
  • jillyo5jillyo5 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I got my truck back last night after being at the dealer service center for 3 days. I was really happy driving it home on the freeway. It seems to have all it's power back that was definitely lacking and is running really smooth. It was running really rough. I started it up this afternoon on my lunch hour and the damn check engine light came back on. I am taking it back after work today so they can check it out....again. It is so frustrating! Anyways, I did check with Triple A and they assured me that they did make a special stop to purchase the diesel that they poured in the tank. I do need to find a new diesel mechanic. My truck only has 50K miles and it feels like it's got about 250K. I live in Lomita, CA and take it to the Long Beach/Signal Hill area. Does anyone happen to know of a good mechanic in the area that honors the GMPP extended warranty? Thanks for letting me vent.
  • davetxdavetx Member Posts: 5
    I have an '04 Sierra 3500 Crew Cab with the 6.6 Duramax and Alison trans. I have experienced a new problem with white smoke coming frmo the exhaust after the truck idles for a few minutes. When it is running sitting still and then drive off, the smoke pours out of the exhaust leaving a smoke trail behind me. The other morning when I hooked up our fifth-wheel RV, the truck was making clouds of white smoke out of the exhaust. I have checked both the oil level and antifreeze levels and both are okay. Ant help/advice would be appreciated.
  • shrimp1004shrimp1004 Member Posts: 6
    injectors or clogged i had the same problem with my 03.8year 200000 mile warranty from gm.must change fuel filter every 10000 miles
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Did they tell you what the trouble code was for the check engine light? Did your truck on rev to 2000 RPM? had very little power? Jeff
  • durataxduratax Member Posts: 5
    Kinda sounds like a head gasket... You may want to keep an eye on the coolant level.. My 2005 just cracked a piston and blew allot of white smoke. It happened all at once though..
    Good luck,

    K
  • glenn14glenn14 Member Posts: 2
    05 Sierra Duramax with 56k miles has started leaking oil from the turbo intake.
    It drips down on the inside fender well just below the air filter case. The dealer
    is ordering new turbo rubber adapter hose and clamps indicating that there is a crack in the hose. They did check for gasket leakage and blow-by at the manifold. I don't understand how oil is getting into this turbo intake hose that should only be getting air for the turbo from up by the radiator/front grill. What am I missing and any suggestions?
  • ehjehj Member Posts: 1
    My 04 GMC Sierra Duramax Diesel has also had several sets of injectors replaced. I also have a recurring problem with the alternator system. The most recent event started with the voltage guage jumping around while running at high speeds and the lights were flickering. I had the alternator replaced 6-months prior to this. When I brought it in, they said weren't sure, but replaced the alternator under a part warranty claim. They also replaced a battery at this time. Coincidentally, two weeks later, the injectors failed. Is there any chance these are related in any way? It's been two months since then and now the voltage guage is starting to drop down to 10V when the lights are turned on. This is the fourth set of injectors, and at least the 3rd alternator.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Check your ground strap. Have you had a lift kit installed?
  • nsanfordnsanford Member Posts: 1
    My BlockHeater stopped working i think it just got un plugged from the heating element it is -20 in wyoming this week i need to plug it back in but dont know where the freeze plug is or the element it self is where is it located next to the oil filter please help
  • tr11tr11 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I have a 2007 2500 duramax and the compression fittings for the transmission started leaking at 35,000. I had three of them fixed under warranty. Now, at 67,000 and less than one year later the same ones are leaking again. The dealership says it is not covered even though they fixed it a year ago. They are a good dealership, and they have good guys there as well, but I feel compelled to ask you all if this shouldn't be covered? Any ideas?

    Thanks. TR
  • bayou4usbayou4us Member Posts: 1
    07 4x4 GMC Duromax 6.6. My mileage just keeps dropping. 21 miles to the gallon on the 4-lane when I first bought it brand new. Now it's down to 16. Just replace oil again and put two quarts of Lucas with oil and it dropped to 12 mpg in town. Is it harmfull to put the Lucas in this engine or my truck has some problems?
  • cthom10388cthom10388 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 05 2500 duramax and an 06 ram 3500 mega with cummins, the chevy has been the biggest junk I have ever owned, I have bought a lot of new trucks and these 2 I bought new, I will never buy another gm again and wouldn't trade my dodge for one, think long and hard about it
  • lspillmanlspillman Member Posts: 6
    I owned Ford diesels which are great trucks but Ford ticked me off so I bought a Dodge cummins and that was a total piece of junk so I bought a Duramax and it has been been a good truck up to 85,000 miles now I have oil pressure problems. I would buy a new Duramax but as GM (and Chrysler) declared bankruptcy I will not do business with either so I am going to buy a new Ford diesel or a Toyota Tundra. I will not do business with liars cheats and theives and that is exactly what GM and Chrysler are.
  • evansdadevansdad Member Posts: 7
    Please help I have a 2004 D-MAX 2500 I pulled out of my driveway this morning and losed my power steering and my power brakes any idea what could have happened its been cold where I live but please reply somebody
  • evansdadevansdad Member Posts: 7
    cut the engine off and turn the key to the on position without starting the engine and push the gas pedal to the floor three times within 5 seconds and it should reset the oil light
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    My first guess would be your serpentine belt broke, and you no longer have power to hydrolic accessories. If this is the case then your alternator and AC would also not be working.
    The other possibility is you have a hydraulic fuid leak and don't have enough fluid to pressurize the system.

    Good luck
  • kenthunder4kenthunder4 Member Posts: 3
    truck starts and runs fine when plugged in cold here in michigan after sitting for 6 hours or more in cold turns over fast but takes awhile to start but runs fine after dealer says its the injection pump 1800 to fix dont believe them because it runs so good need help dont know what to do any one have same problem thanks
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Are you sure your glow plugs are working???
    Your glow plugs heat the cylinders before startup on cold days, and stay on until certain operating temps are reached, the fuel injectors spray fule directly on the glow plugs to aid with ignition in cold conditions.

    I would look to a relay or fuse related to glow plug function and trouble shoot from there.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    PPE out of Califormia sells a fuel rail valve that you can DIY. Gives you better fuel pressure. Try them. Jeff
  • kenthunder4kenthunder4 Member Posts: 3
    the dealer said they were working the light comes on and goes off thats what i thought it was they said the injector pump suppose to read 10 mega mine reads 9.5 is that enough to cause problem thanks
  • kenthunder4kenthunder4 Member Posts: 3
    the dealer ship change my injector pump did not fix problem are they stupid 1,800 $ and my truck is still broke told them too check glow plugs they never did they said the injector pump should read 10 mega pixsoil dont know what that means but mine reads 9.25 and said my truck would not run but it ran very good just hard start when cold so so mad did not pay them thanks for the help
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Did you try the fuel rail valve from PPE out of California? Cost about 50 and give you better fuel pressure I think. Easy install.
  • bowmabowma Member Posts: 1
    Hi! My husband and I are going to attempt to change the oil in our truck. It is a 2005. When we consult our manual, it doesn't really address this, especially where the oil plug is. Can you help us with some advice on changing the oil? Thanks so much.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    I know things are tight right now but have you ever changed the oil in any vehicle before? The oil pan has the drain plug on it. Unscrew it, drain the oil into a container that you can take and recycle, remove and replace the oil filter, which you did not mention, reinstall the drain plug and fill to proper level and check. Sart the truck and let run for a minute to fill the filter, shut off, let sit a minute or two and recheck the oil level and fill as needed. Don't forget to do the other maintanence as well. Chassis lube. I recommend for $75.00 or so you take to a professional to do this. Air filter, check brake fluidlevels and cleanliness, trans fluid cleanliness, radiator, etc. My local shop checks all this for me. Jeff
  • lspillmanlspillman Member Posts: 6
    I agree with Jeff. Changing the oil seems like a very simple procedure but do you have the necessary equipment? Such as large enough container to hold at least 4 gallons of oil to drain into. Replacing the oil filter is an absolute must. Do you have the filter wrench large enough to fit this filter? If you do please make sure you follow the tightening procedure supplied with the proper oil filter. I had the local dealer change the oil and they did not tighten the filter to specs and I lost 5 quarts of oil on the freeway :P . Good thing the whole thing did not dump or it would have been a 20 grand loss and we would have ended up in court. Les
  • bones417bones417 Member Posts: 6
    Last week we were on a trip with our 2007 3500 Silverado, I was pulling our 15,000 fifth wheel camp trailer. We were going from northern Utah to Southern Utah on I15 so we had alot of good climbs and steep downhills. All was going great until about 250 miles into the trip on a steep downhill 6% grade I had to touch the brakes, the instant I did 2 red lights next to the check engine light flashed, the warning chime went 3 times and the check engine light came on. The 2 red lights don't come on when I first turn the key and they were not labeled. The check engine light remained on, all gauges looked normal truck was running fine. Since we were about 60 mile from our destination we continued.

    The check engine light remained on the next day so I went and got fuel still remained on. So the next day Friday I read in the owners manual to see if it said anything about the warning lights flashing and the warning chime with the check engine light, nothing, I start the truck to see if the check engine light was still on if it had been I was going to find a dealer however it was out.

    Does anyone no what the red lights flashing and warning chime going off with the check engine light is all about, it sure got my attention and then no information as to what was going on not even anything in the drive information center.

    Thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello,
    I am from GM Customer Service. You can have a 10 second chime when your warning lamp comes on. Because it is just saying check engine and nothing specific then I cannot tell you what the check engine light means. I would recommend taking it to the dealership to have it diagnosed. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • millerdmaxmillerdmax Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax Diesel truck and I just got it and it already had the Banks 6 Gun chip in it but was not connected which I did so. Now I have a boost gauge and EGT gauge installed in the truck in a pod. If I accelerate heavy on the 6th stage on the chip my boost gauge hits 30 psi no problem but I get no smoke no power no nothing. If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it deeply. Thanks.
  • lukflukf Member Posts: 1
    My vehicle has been great up until last year. Power died completely on a busy highway. Had to be towed, new alternator put on. Was great for awhile but then twice recently, once after towing a small trailer, and the 2nd time while driving on the highway without towing, my low battery indicator came on and all the gauges failed. However the truck ran fine as long as I didn't have to stop or slow down. As soon as I stopped at a light, I had no or very slow acceleration in drive and if I put it in reverse it would do nothing. Trying to accelerate on a small slope from a stop was inpossible, I had to roll down the hill and take a run at it. I had the tranny checked, fluid changed etc, and everything is fine in that regard. I just had the engine oil changed prior to this latest incident. When I get home and leave the truck for a couple of hours, it runs like there was never a problem. I thought it might be a relay switch or some electrical issue. Anyone got any ideas. I am planning on towing my camper in a few weeks on a long trip, worried about perfomance and safety.
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Try PPE (Pacific Perf. Engineering) out of California. They have a fuel rail valve that goes on the driver side fuel rail. As to the dieing truck, have the ground strap checked. Put a lift on the truck?
  • clennoxclennox Member Posts: 2
    Lost all power. Engine kept running. Engine light on. Stuck on freeway! Drained filter. Engine ran great for ten miles. Same thing again and again. Went though this for 50 miles. Made it home.
    Changed filter. Engine ran good for 2 miles. Now if I drain and prime it doesn't get better. light on zero power
    Also when priming filter the pump get hard, like it should. Start engine pump gets soft? Is that normal?
    Where should I start?
    I don't want to tow it to dealer.
    Thanks in advance
    Chuck
  • folbfolb Member Posts: 54
    Wha did the error message say when the engine light comes on? Does it normally do this under acceleration? My 2005 needed a fuel rail valve. Took care of my problem. PPE out of california sells them. Worth the money.
  • clennoxclennox Member Posts: 2
    Well problem solved!!!!
    Used scan tool. found the following two codes 2146 "Fuel injection group A supply voltage circuit open.
    PO 207 Injector circuit Malfunction cyl 7

    I pulled connector off cyl 7 injector. cleaned male and female sides. Put it back on and all is well!!!
    I didn't see anything wrong with this connector? I read several posts about "Ice pick cleaning"
    This looks good. I just drove it about 25 miles towing a heavy trailer and so far so good. Knock on wood!
    Thanks for the help.
    Chuck
  • dinah2dinah2 Member Posts: 1
    have a 2005 Duramax diesel 3500 coming up interstate lost all power went into limp mode changed fuel filter no change ...bad injector .... understand there may be a recall of some sort on these does anyone know thanks for any help
  • durataxduratax Member Posts: 5
    hello, if your truck will only go about 25 mph then it is probably because the wiring to one side of the injectors has failed. They only replace both sides if they both fail. Most likely they will just repair the bad bank only.

    if your truck can go at near normal speeds, but stays only in 3rd gear. then it is in limp mode. not sure what the problem is in this case.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Dinah2,
    You can email me and I can look into your concern further for you. You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • heinerheiner Member Posts: 1
    Bought the truck in May 2003, got a letter from GM Oct. 2006 in regards to injector warranty ext. 200k/7Y. Experienced injector problem 3 days before lapse of warranty. Stealer checked injector pressures and found 146MPA(145unacceptable, new 160MPA). GM warranty was contacted and an extension to warranty was promised verbally. I wrote a follow up to confirm and now was informed that although the truck has only 75k no new extended warranty would be given. (Warr. rep. had lied.) I have witness to conversation- what does one do. Any input? Heiner
  • pearce369pearce369 Member Posts: 10
    My transmissin will not stay in reverse and gives a message on dash " shift inhibited palce in N to reset " It stays in reverse for a few seconds and then goes to neutral. Does anyone have any answers?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Pearce,
    Has anyone diagnosed the vehicle for the concern? How long has the concern been present? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • pearce369pearce369 Member Posts: 10
    Yes I have it at service dept. at Gilbert Chevolet in Okeechobee, Fl. they are bending over backwards in frustration trying to find the problem, it shows no codes after mulyiple attemps to read it. The problem with reverse just started this past monday, not being an aggressive driver I haven't noticed any problems in forward. Since this showed up and the test drive was done it also has shift problems in forward as well. I have no complaints with Gilbert's service department, they have always done a good job. I just thought if someone on the blog could help I could pass on the information to them. When they are not getting codes it makes it extremely difficult to determine what issue they aredealing with. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Pearce369,
    Unfortunately I cannot diagnose your vehicle over the internet. However, your dealership has access to our tech department that will help them diagnose the concern you are currently having. Please keep me updated on how the progress is coming. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • lspillmanlspillman Member Posts: 6
  • lspillmanlspillman Member Posts: 6
    Since I changed from Delo to Rotella and now back again, after a disaster with oil hiding out in the engine, in my 2003 Duramax I now get a very low or no oil pressure after about 30 miles of continuous driving. I start out at 65 PSI and by 30 miles it decays off to 0. I stop for 5 minutes, check the oil, and fire up and have 65 PSI again. Then 30 miles later, same thing, etc. The Chevy dealer in Pasco, WA says they cannot get it to do the same thing so just to drive it unless it starts making noise then shut it down. Any one have a clue on this one?
Sign In or Register to comment.