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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • papenpapen Posts: 11
    THANK YOU! It fixed my problem to. It did cost 50.00 and trust me if you hadn't brought this up no one was able to find the problem. Not even the Jeep dealer. I have my Jeep back thanks to this excellent advice. Thank you sooooooo much!
  • Appreciate all of the discussion on this topic because it led me to my problem without spending too much money. My '97 Grand Cherokee has been shutting off
    while driving since this past summer, and has left me in dangerous situations, and my catalytic converter and muffler are history due to the backfiring. I replaced battery, distributer cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil with no relief.
    I found that barely moving the connectors to the ECM/ECU would shut off the engine and would not trigger the check engine light. I removed the coolant tank
    and cleaned the 3 connectors. Now, wiggling the wires does not shut the off the
  • Let me relate my experiences with my JGC (96 5.2L Limited). About a month ago, I started experiencing the same common stalling problem (when I took my foot of the gas the engine would die). On top of that, the vehicle information center kept resetting itself when I started the Jeep each morning. My mechanic did not find any codes when he analyzed the diagnostic system. Doing a fair bit of research on the web led me to believe that a common cause for this type of problem is the idle air control (IAC). Indeed after replacing the IAC, my jeep idles nicely about 300 rpm and the VIC stopped resetting itself! I would have never thought the two could be related. My working theory is that the old IAC was shorting and that caused the ECM to go into spasm.

    Anyway, based on my experience the first place I would recommend checking when a JGC develops the dreaded stalling problem is the IAC.

  • mssncmssnc Posts: 1
    Hello All!

    I am seriously at my wits end! My check engine light was on and I took my 04 JGC Special Edition (it's special alright) 80,000to the dealership. Well they told me all sorts of codes were lighting up. Basically, the hoses needed to be replaced and a flush of the system (667). Oh and he noticed an oil leak ($700.00) in the pan and the back rear brake seal was leaking. Now I was peeved since no one had bothered to tell me this before, seeing as though they are the only ones who have ever touched my Jeep.

    I've had nothing but problems with it from the word go. I noticed it seemed to be "misting" about thirty days after I bought it. The mechanic tells me that it's normal for jeeps to feel this way. I hear the big squeak when I shift gears from P to D, finally get them to fix the transmission. Then all of the rear lights go out. I forgot what they said the problem with that was. And to top it all off the engine light flashed and it was rough to say the least. That was the caustic conferter switch (sp sorry).

    I've had it with this truck. I've never had so many problems with a vehicle in all of my life! As a single mom it's become too much for me to deal with. Anyway they have fixed this stuff and it's still idling again. Will someone please point me in the right direction? I've got to get it evened out so I can get rid of it. ASAP! :lemon:
  • I have a similar problem with a 1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, 4X4. When cold and/or damp it won't start. Mechanics have tried everything: new fuel pump, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, grounding system, etc. A friend's son (former AutoZone employee) suggested the ballast resistor in the ignition system. Discussion from other websites suggest same thing. The ballast resistor does not show up in many schematics. The manuals do not show it. The counter staff at several autoparts stores can't find any such thing in their catalogues. Help! Where is it on this model? Who can help?
  • Hi. I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 liter. When I was driving it, it shut off on the highway but I was able to pull to the side. I was able to start it again but the Jeep kept on losing power...rpm's were erratic and I had to shift it into 1st gear to keep it going. I had it towed to my home and replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and wires. After all of this, the Jeep only starts when I hold down the gas. Also, when I took the jeep for a drive around the block, the rpm's would read zero if I pressed the gas and when I took my foot off the gas pedal, the rpm's would climb back but never stabilize. The jeep shudders when it is on and usually stalls. There is no check engine light and the battery and starter are new. Any ideas on what might be causing the problem. Thanks in advance.
  • caylecayle Posts: 1
    ok, i have a '96 4.0L and every time i go to accellerate it almost dies then it goes. Every once in a while it will die on me when accelerate from a dead stop. Any ideas to whats going on?
  • I too am having the same exact problem with my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4x2, 6 cylinder. Using a test light, I disconnected the positive battery cable and put a test light on the positive terminal of the battery and the other side of the test light I clipped to the unhooked positive battery cable and it lights up showing there is a short somewhere. I pulled the 50 amp Mux/T tow fuse and got the same results ( from the fuse box in the engine compartment ). I also found that if you pull fuse #7 (cluster fuse ) from the fuse box in the passenger area under the glove box and to the right ( passenger kick panel ) the current draw goes to zero, but your instrument cluster wont work either. I took everything out of the dash hoping that when the item causing the short was pulled the current draw would go away. I pulled the insturment cluster, the headlight switch box, the O/D and defroster switch box, the radio, the cigarette lighter connector and the accessory power connector and still the current draw is there. I havent found the answer yet, if anyone is out there that knows how to fix this, could you share what the fix it? I also changed to Alternator which didn't fix the problem. I also unplugged all 3 computer connectors ( computer is located on the passenger side firewall in the engine area ) still the current draw was there, so the computer isn't causing it.
    ...........HELP!!!! Quarkdude
  • My 1999 jeep Cherokee is stalling when being started cold. It needs pedal application for about 20-30 seconds to keep going. I cleaned the throttle body and checked the mat sensor and coolant temp. sensor, they were fine.the Idle air speed sensor is not in my service manual but when i unplugged it, the vehicle starts fine. I changed that sensor, and things worked great for a week, and now the problem is back. could this sensor have gone again, or is there something else i should be checking. the old sensor reads 52 ohms and the new one reads 54. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is the idle air control and idle control valve the same thing as the idle air speed sendor??, I believe there is a map sensor in my throttle body but i don't know what the third sensor is. again my hayes service manual is not showing or describing it. could anyone tell me what the third sensor is.
  • Saw the same thing happen after I changed the idle air control sensor. Worked for about 3 days and started stalling again. I found that by cleaning the tunnel that the IAC is mounted in with throttle body cleaner, the problem would go away. Cleaned out this very greasy dirt that must be coming from the throttle body. What I didn't understand was how oil was getting into the intake manifold and then the throttle body. After my mechanic checked everything out, he is of the opinion that I have a leak in the intake manifold. He also noted that I had a weak battery and recommended that I change it. Incredibly, when a new battery was installed, the stalling problem went away! As I recall, others in the forum have had similar success with the Jeep stalling problem when they replace the battery.

    Even though my Jeep is running better now (no stalling), I am still experiencing the bouncing tach syndrome Backing off on the gas suddenly will cause the engine rpm to drop dramatically then climb back up to a steady rpm. I am pretty sure this is due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold. Hopefully, when we replace the intake manifold gaskets (big job) the bouncing tack problem and the oily IAC will problems will both be solved.

  • I have a problem with my 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo and the mechanic cannot find out what the problem is..When I am out on the open road and have been driving for a while and I start down a hill the car surges like I have water in my fuel and then it start to miss and the RPM's start to drop real low and then it goes back up and the vehicle missed real bad and then the check engine light comes on...But, the mechanic cannot find out what the problem is....Any suggestions...I would appreciate any advise..... Thanks.....:confuse:
  • papenpapen Posts: 11
    With all the people having trouble---don't you think its time to all join together and start a petition for a recall? On this site alone dozens having problems. We have all placed major money into repairs still not fixing problems. Anyone know how? Would be happy to sign it. Thank you.
  • I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche which was suffering from the same problem. Idled fine, ran on the highway but almost stalled every time off the line. After some farting around I found a damaged/melted EGR valve under the air intake just beside the exhaust manifold. It had fallen off earlier and melted against the manifold as it dangled. Luckily I have a parts Jeep in my lane way and just replaced the EGR. This fixed it right up. Because the EGR was malfunctioning I assume it was sending way too much exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber and destroying the reaction.

    Hope this helps...
  • I totatly agree.i have searched many web sites(automotive troubleshooting).and have found people world wide are having the same exact problems we all have had with our jeep's.what really tiks me off is CHRYSLER DODGE dealership are not willing to fix the problem,"they dont know" no more than i.i will do further ivestigation on this.i've been wanting to do this....soooo thank's for the encouragement.i will be back with action!!!!
  • Bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 3 weeks ago and have had problems with engine cutting out this week. Had to call AAA last night to rescue me. Engine sounds odd and then just dies. Refuses to restart for more than 2 seconds. Check gages light on. Told me I was out of gas, but tank is full. AAA managed to start car in Neutral but not Park. Have just left message with dealership I bought it from, but after reading all these messages I don't hold much hope. Will post again if I get this resolved.
  • Did you ever figure out what was wrong? My mom is having the same problem with her 94 Grand Cherokee v-8. During cold weather it will start but die after just a few seconds. They replaced the fuel pump and filter and still nothing. My mom resorted to putting a hair dryer on the distributor and after a few min. of heat it would start and run like noting was wrong. But now nothing works. My dad thinks it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
  • I have a 1994 JGC 5.2L, and it has always been a great vehicle. This past May the CE light came on, the mechanic changed the O2 sensor. Then the next day the light came on again, he then changed the EG valve. It came on again, but I never took it back in. Now, my car starts, but won't stay on. If you give it lots of gas it will eventally stay on. This happened the other day when I went to pick the car up at the mechanic, and the cleaned the throttle body and said it was running fine. It did for two whole days. Now what. I need to take it back in, any suggestions.
  • I have a 200 Jeep GC Limited w/ same problem. Just started in last few months. I have been reading the postings and you might be interested to go to page 27 under electrical problems and read some postings. I think this is electrical and causing problems in many areas. There are some long responses but worth trying. Dealerships can't seem to find out anything.
  • If you battery is old, try changing it. Had a very similar problem with many of the same symptoms you describe (btw, my 1996 JGC 5.2L has two O2 sensors; one before the catalytic converter and one after. Does your JGC have two also? Were they both changed?). After changing the IAC it ran great for a couple of days then would not idle. On a whim, my mechanic suggested changing the battery. After installing a new battery, car runs very nicely now. If you are also experencing problems with the Vehicle Information Center (VIC) this may also indicate the need for a new battery.

  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ. When I start it up after the engine is at normal operating temperature, it idles rough for a few seconds. There is no stalling or hesitation, just the rough idle. I noticed a smell of semi-burned fuel [which means that its running rich] when this happens and the RPM goes to 1,200.It's a 4.0 POWER-TECH I6. Other than that things are fine. By the way, the engine light isn't on. Any comments would help :)
  • Just purchased my beloved 98 5.9L back again bought it from a dealer thinking it would be turn key sort speak, I'm in need of some help maybe you guys can give me some insight on my problem, Noticed it Miss firing last week replaced spark plugs started it up and it ran smooth took it out for a run maybe 5 miles of hard acceleration and when got back to my garage it was back to what it was, So i decided take it into a shop have him put the engine scanner on it and see what it will say, 150.00 later and another set of plugs he says number 7 was dead,changed and ran fine, Until i took it on a long ride that next day about 300 miles, got home noticed it again with a slight misfire at idle only same as last time, So now I'm ruling out the plugs being it seems to only misfire when at idle and after a few minutes running, Seems to have the power at higher RPM's as i gave a 96 Camero a run for his money today so i know the jeep is using its 8 cyl or maybe not? this is what i need help on here maybe someone has had the same problem, I should mention the check engine light came on both times and came off the first time i changed the plugs. Also i want to point out, The day i bought the jeep and drove it for the first time it was acting strange at first meaning the rpm's would climb over 1000 at idle and would idle up and down and then from then on it stayed under 1000 and now this issue of misfiring so thought i should mention this as this all happend in this order all within a week. Thanks Don
  • My son is a jeep tech, and has been working on my starting problem for over a year, it was starting and stalling out , right off, he narrowed it down to security problems , replaced the security module, all sensors, even grounded the doors to make the computer think it had a key in it to bypass, but still as soon as the weather got cold and wet, my problem came back, finally after he and the master tech trying everything as a last ditch effort he replaced the computer, that was over a month ago and it has seemed to stop the problem, we live in the very northern part of Vermont , almost on the canadian border, so the bad weather is here, he cracked open the old computer and it was full of moist er and corrosion, I hope this long effort to get this jeep fixed helps others to a very long but easy fix
  • My 2000 Grand Cherokee has been in the shop since Friday night. (The Garage is BMW, so I guess theyre not used to Jeeps, although they do seem to be trying their best). They initially replaced the ignition switch but that didn't work. They're know looking at electrical bundling (I think that's what she said). They're also considering whether it's worth throwing money at it. They promise to get back to me tomorrow. I'll keep you updated.
  • hey,
    ive got a 01 grand jeep cherokee and im having problems starting my vehicle. i have the key in the ignition and when i try to start it , i cannot turn the key to start it ? could it be a bad park/nuetral switch ?
  • hey,
    ive got a 01 grand jeep cherokee and im having problems starting my vehicle. i have the key in the ignition and when i try to start it , i cannot turn the key to start it ? could it be a bad park/nuetral switch ? :confuse:
  • went out and mine would start then stall but would idle if i held the gas a litte bit there is a small screw where your throttle is(the 3 cables and the metal bracket that holds them) the throttle hits it when fully closed i turned mine out a little bit problem solved (this screw youll only see the threads needs to be turned from underneath)or use a small pair if vise grips from the top let me know if this helps anyone
  • i have a 1994 cherokee country with 2.5. I'm having a starting problem. In the morning my jeep starts up right away no problem. The problem happens after its warmed up. After its been warmed up and i run into a store for five minutes, then come back out to start it, it won't start it just keeps cranking, but once i put the pedal to the floor it starts right up. Everytime i drive around and run into a store and i need to start my jeep I have to put the pedal to the floor. can someone please help me out.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have injectors that leak
    i would also change the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail could be allowing to much pressure on the fuel rail
  • Having had my 2000 jeep in the shop for a week, the BMW garage appears to have fixed the problem. Apparently they found a wire near the crank sensor that was being pinched, spliced and was shorting. This was a wire at the top of the transmission bell housing. (Sorry, means nothing to me!). They rewired this section and tightened brackets to stop further pinching. The cars been working fine all weekend. I must say after reading all these tales of woe I didn't have much hope, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    Good luck to the rest of you out there.
  • rmchavrmchav Posts: 1
    Same prob w/my 98!!! Did you get any good responding solutions?
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