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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • 440cuda98grand440cuda98grand Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased my beloved 98 5.9L back again bought it from a dealer thinking it would be turn key sort speak, I'm in need of some help maybe you guys can give me some insight on my problem, Noticed it Miss firing last week replaced spark plugs started it up and it ran smooth took it out for a run maybe 5 miles of hard acceleration and when got back to my garage it was back to what it was, So i decided take it into a shop have him put the engine scanner on it and see what it will say, 150.00 later and another set of plugs he says number 7 was dead,changed and ran fine, Until i took it on a long ride that next day about 300 miles, got home noticed it again with a slight misfire at idle only same as last time, So now I'm ruling out the plugs being it seems to only misfire when at idle and after a few minutes running, Seems to have the power at higher RPM's as i gave a 96 Camero a run for his money today so i know the jeep is using its 8 cyl or maybe not? this is what i need help on here maybe someone has had the same problem, I should mention the check engine light came on both times and came off the first time i changed the plugs. Also i want to point out, The day i bought the jeep and drove it for the first time it was acting strange at first meaning the rpm's would climb over 1000 at idle and would idle up and down and then from then on it stayed under 1000 and now this issue of misfiring so thought i should mention this as this all happend in this order all within a week. Thanks Don
  • bkrneilbkrneil Member Posts: 2
    My son is a jeep tech, and has been working on my starting problem for over a year, it was starting and stalling out , right off, he narrowed it down to security problems , replaced the security module, all sensors, even grounded the doors to make the computer think it had a key in it to bypass, but still as soon as the weather got cold and wet, my problem came back, finally after he and the master tech trying everything as a last ditch effort he replaced the computer, that was over a month ago and it has seemed to stop the problem, we live in the very northern part of Vermont , almost on the canadian border, so the bad weather is here, he cracked open the old computer and it was full of moist er and corrosion, I hope this long effort to get this jeep fixed helps others to a very long but easy fix
  • firstjeep1firstjeep1 Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Grand Cherokee has been in the shop since Friday night. (The Garage is BMW, so I guess theyre not used to Jeeps, although they do seem to be trying their best). They initially replaced the ignition switch but that didn't work. They're know looking at electrical bundling (I think that's what she said). They're also considering whether it's worth throwing money at it. They promise to get back to me tomorrow. I'll keep you updated.
  • jagtech1jagtech1 Member Posts: 3
    hey,
    ive got a 01 grand jeep cherokee and im having problems starting my vehicle. i have the key in the ignition and when i try to start it , i cannot turn the key to start it ? could it be a bad park/nuetral switch ?
  • jagtech1jagtech1 Member Posts: 3
    hey,
    ive got a 01 grand jeep cherokee and im having problems starting my vehicle. i have the key in the ignition and when i try to start it , i cannot turn the key to start it ? could it be a bad park/nuetral switch ? :confuse:
  • stokes713stokes713 Member Posts: 1
    went out and mine would start then stall but would idle if i held the gas a litte bit there is a small screw where your throttle is(the 3 cables and the metal bracket that holds them) the throttle hits it when fully closed i turned mine out a little bit problem solved (this screw youll only see the threads needs to be turned from underneath)or use a small pair if vise grips from the top let me know if this helps anyone
  • spookie5996spookie5996 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1994 cherokee country with 2.5. I'm having a starting problem. In the morning my jeep starts up right away no problem. The problem happens after its warmed up. After its been warmed up and i run into a store for five minutes, then come back out to start it, it won't start it just keeps cranking, but once i put the pedal to the floor it starts right up. Everytime i drive around and run into a store and i need to start my jeep I have to put the pedal to the floor. can someone please help me out.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have injectors that leak
    i would also change the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail could be allowing to much pressure on the fuel rail
  • firstjeep1firstjeep1 Member Posts: 3
    Having had my 2000 jeep in the shop for a week, the BMW garage appears to have fixed the problem. Apparently they found a wire near the crank sensor that was being pinched, spliced and was shorting. This was a wire at the top of the transmission bell housing. (Sorry, means nothing to me!). They rewired this section and tightened brackets to stop further pinching. The cars been working fine all weekend. I must say after reading all these tales of woe I didn't have much hope, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    Good luck to the rest of you out there.
  • rmchavrmchav Member Posts: 1
    Same prob w/my 98!!! Did you get any good responding solutions?
  • grandjeepgrandjeep Member Posts: 3
    I own a 96 jeep grand cherokee with 118000 miles on it.It recently started acting up,hesitating ,bucking,then it stalled.The mechanic thought it was bad gas,he put fuel system cleaner in it.After a weak it started again, i put high octane gas with a dry gas, drove it down the road,it was bucking frantically,losing power,pulled it off on a side street,put it in neutral,reved it up,cause it sounded like it was ready to stall.waited a bit, put it in park, it rev up too 1200rpms,then dropped to around 600rpms.I've read other people problems like mine.I'm going to try to replace the Crankshaft sensor,but i don't have a clue where it is located,I looked but could not see it.Does anyone have a pic,so i could see where it is?Does my jeep have a camsaft sensor too?I called a local jeep dealer they said it wasn't listed in there computer.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    what engine you have
  • blockpartyblockparty Member Posts: 1
    2004 Jeep Grand Cheorkee SE.
    When I try to start the vehicle, absolutely nothing happens. The engine does not even begin to turn over. However, if I sit and try to start the vehicle multiple times(minimum 20 times), it eventually starts in the manner in which it should.
    The weird symptom that may give some indication as to what the problem is what the gauges are doing prior to attempting to start the vehicle. The gauges will spike up to about 25% (ie, 30-40 mph on the speedomoter) and then immediately go back down. All gauges do this and are in sepuence.
    The only other note is that while the vehicle is in this "no start" mode,...is that all electrical functions do not work. Radio, door locks, windows, etc all do not function.
    The vehicle has done this to me 3 times, but on all occasions has eventually started up with persistance. However, I would like to fix this asap.
    Thanks in advance.
  • teamo1teamo1 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my 05 jeep grand cherokee. i had the ignition replaced. worked fine . but down the road i had another problem , lost all the lights on my display . the only thing i had was the park and rev nut light on couldent tell how fast i was going nothing , plus my rear brake lights went out at the same time , brought it in a couple of times kept re sending some codes in the computer . worked for a few day . the problem was after i got tired of thier [non-permissible content removed] was , the p.s.a board witch is a computer board was bad ,was still under warentee thank god i head they can cost 600 to 700 a board . so be carefull have them check it , no problems sence then , good luck
  • grandjeepgrandjeep Member Posts: 3
    i have the 4.0 straight6
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    at the rear of engine on the pass side way in the back held in with one small bolts hard to get at should come with instructions on how to install has small paper spacer on tip that goes in by flywheel (dont remove as sets the space betyeen flywheel and sensor will come off when you first start up)
    good luck
  • grandjeepgrandjeep Member Posts: 3
    thank you,.one more question,does this have a camshaft position sensor?If so where is it,and is it hard to replace,i was told i should replace both.Where is the computer located?
  • jhertzogjhertzog Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 grand cherokee with the same problem. I was driving last night and 2 mins later it stalled and now it wont start back up... I am out of ideas and my mechanic thinks its the computer. I was just wondering if your problems have stopped after you replaced the computer? I live in PA and my problems occur when its wet or hot out. If you could reply I'd greatly appreciate it... Thanks
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    yes inside distrubater
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    Having to hold the gas sounds like possibly a bad TPS "throttle position sensor.." Or IAC valve "Idle air control." Both of them are on the throttle body. I would go to your local Pep Boys or Auto Zone and get a 29 dollar Haynes manual for your GC and run some tests on this area. If they check out it could also be a Crank sensor or Cam Pickup Sensor.. or worse case scenario ... a bad PCM. But strange its not popping the check engine light.
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with about 160k on it.. runs ok on everyday around town jaunts.. but get it out on the freeway and try to run around 70 and it feels like it stumbles and has a funny feeling miss. Also has a problem under a heavy acceleration like climbing a hill.. it shudders and loses power until you let off the gas and gradually it will recover its rpm and run ok. This thing has been a bee blanket since we bought it at 116K.

    With all the troubles its had I have changed every sensor in this thing.. plus the coil.. cap... rotor.. wires..the PCM...breakers,,hoses..lines.. etc. We have checked the fuel flow coming from the pump and it seems to be a good stream. But I havent pressure tested it. But I am wondering if the fuel pump is starting to get old and breaking down under a load and causing this problem.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    It Pi$$es me when it runs like crap. but.. when it runs ok.. its a sweet little ride.
    "Jerk Every Electrical Part.. Gobbles Cash. " :)
  • comantzkecomantzke Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche, so here's the issue. Before I break it down, this problem only happens when it's cold outside. I'm AZ so anything under low 50's is cold. Anyway, she starts fine and idles normal. Once the engine temp goes up, the idle goes up too. So once it's at normal temp the idle is around 2k and stays there. If I drive it for a while it might drop down and stay around 1500 but wont go any lower than that. When it starts warming up outside the problem goes away and it idles fine all the time. I change the IACV (idle air control valve) but didn't change a thing. Any suggestions?
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Could also be a shortage of air. Make sure your air cleaner and intake system is clear.
  • snake_plisskensnake_plissken Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Grand with the 4.0 and 135k, beginning back in the summer I would go to start it and it would not turn over. Everything turns on electricly and I can hear the engine cranking but it will just not turn over and run. However, if I push on the gas pedal as if I'm reving the engine or as if it wasn't fuel injected I can get it to start. I must hold the idle speed, usually around 1000 rpm, for maybe 30 secs. or so to make sure it'll stay started. If I don't do physiclly hold the gas to keep it running it just stalls out. Once it's running for the first few minutes the idle is very low, around 400 rpm. I've ran the codes before trying to get it to stay started and nothing is being tripped, just says done in the readout. I have new plugs, have ran fuel line cleaner through the entire system, and have checked the battery. Planning on changing the fuel filter next. In addition to the problem this happens totally random and without warning. Have had it happen as many as 3 times within a week and have gone as long as 2+ months between it. Once it gets running it's perfectly fine with no difference in performance or ride. Anybody with any suggestions?
  • gbalchgbalch Member Posts: 1
    93 grand cherokee will not idel , has smooth exceleration until you are on the freeway then it starts to buck and a little back fire it has MSD icnition K&n air filter after market intake manafold and Doug Thorly headers, i have put a new battery, alt. coil cleaned the carbon out of TBI, no vac. leaks and yet i can put a rag in the TBI and it will still run? please help.
  • papenpapen Member Posts: 11
    The fuel pump fixed mine ,BUT, you must get a good fitting fuel pump. One ordered off of ebay (junk). Finally purchased 302.00 one came with seal and longer dip. My car still shuts down, BUT, restarts immediately. The fuel pump is expensive ,but, very important buying the right one.
  • plamat52plamat52 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 Cherokee with the 4.0L, check engine light came on so i checked the code and it came up P0123, throttle position sensor. Anyone know if this is an easy fix for semi competent person, and anyone recommend a good book or web site to go to for pics of the swap out. Thanks
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    The TPS is an pretty easy change.. 2 screws holding it on and its mounted on the throttle body. Just change it out and start the engine and let it idle and the pcm will set it . If you need specs the haynes manuals are pretty good and not overly expensive. About 29 dollars at your local discount auto or pepboys.
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    Yep.. definatly pays to buy a good pump. This is what turned out to be wrong my 96 too.. the wife went on a trip to Ft Lauderdale to her friends 3 days ago and it died on her down there...she took it to a mechanic there and found the pickup screen was about 3/4 plugged up and had overheated the pump a few times. It cost over 500 bucks for the fuel pump and labor.Ouch. But at least its working and I know my wife and kid will make it back to Tampa safe.
    Thats worth every penny and then some !!
  • kerry6kerry6 Member Posts: 1
    After cranking up, the engine runs smoothly for a couple of seconds at around 700 RPMs, afterwards the RPM drops to around 250/300 and runs rough. The car runs even rougher when in gear as well but only at idle speed. When driving at any speed the engine runs very smoothly so the problem is at idle. The engine is rough all the time at idle speed, even when the car is hot!

    Any Ideas???
    Thanks!
  • stax831stax831 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2.7 crd diesel auto (UK) and have a problem when I go to start I get a whirring noise, and it will not start (like the starter is not engaging) if I then try and restart it will start with no problem. This has been happening for a few months but recently has got worse.

    Now I am not sure what I am looking at could it be the starter or :confuse: to me it sounds like the starter is engaging but there is nothing for it turn can the teeth be wearing on the starter or what its engaging with. Is it going to be a big job

    Its a 2003 model with only 60,000 miles :cry:
  • kotannielkotanniel Member Posts: 2
    Mine only has 1 O2 sensor. Well after all of this we went ahead and changed the IAC. Ran fine for a week and then did the samething at startup. It would start but would not idle. So you hold the gas about 1000 rpm and then it is fine. Since the check engine light never went off after changing the EGR and O2 sensor, we finally put it back on the computer and it read Code 32 which is a faulty EGR. So the mechanic changed it under warrenty and guess what, it came on again. I will try a new battery. When you replaced yours was it difficult to start? Any other suggestions. After they changed the IAC, on the computer, I guess it is supposed to read about 18 - 20 at an idle and mine only reads 0 - 1. They said it could be a number of things, but it will be difficult to find because it is an intermittent problem.
    All help is appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Deanna
  • snake_plisskensnake_plissken Member Posts: 2
    Appreciate all the advice on potential causes for the starting problem. Ran fuel line cleaner through the system along with a complete cleaning of the throttle body this weekend. Will also be replacing the fuel filter shortly along with the valve cover gasket and adding a BDS 2" lift, which is unrelated to the problem. Really won't know if the problem has been fixed unless it doesn't start again at which point I'll have my answer. As far as the fuel pump goes with previous experience and from additional advice, the problem should be more consistant with usually the pump going out after a few weeks. But it will def. be a thought if this keeps up. So thanks again to those who offered advice.
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    I would probably guess it to be the starter bendix going bad. They will do the hollow sounding whirr when they are cold in the beginning.. then gradually get worse until it does it nearly every start. Might want to take your starter in to be checked. Only other things that will cause this is bad ground or starter cable.. or worse case a flywheel beginning to get bad teeth on the ring gear . But at the mileage I would suspect the bendix.
    Don.
  • dave5centsdave5cents Member Posts: 6
    Deanna -
    The symptoms you are experiencing sound very much like the ones on my JGC. The mechanic found the weak battery when trying to diagnose the problem. The battery died as he was trying to start it. He suggested replacing the battery (which I did) but his diagnosis was a vacuum leak in the intake manifold. As I didn't have the money to have the intake manifold pulled and the gaskets replaced at the time, we agreed that I would drive it until I could afford the work. But you know, I haven't had a problem since the battery was replaced. Strange, but when you realize that you are driving a computer on wheels, it sort of makes sense.

    Dave
  • agelos123agelos123 Member Posts: 1
    i had left the Jeep for one month in a parking with alot humidity and when i went to take it i realised that there was a problem.
    when i turned the key on position the volt instrument cluster show at 9volts and the check gauges lamp is on,the driver seat
    stop to go front and back the only thing that work on the driver seat is the pump on the back, (when i tern the key to the stop
    possition after for 10 minute 0r 15 the driver seat work again.),
    the passenger seat work ok, but both dosent have heat,when i press the heat buttons the light is on the buttons but the heater
    of both seats do not work.
    when i turn the key to the start possition the Jeep start but when i press the gas the mashine not work normal make convulsion(spasm)
    (broum broum).I think maybe the problem was the battary is not full and i went slow slow for a small drive,after for one killometer
    the mashine stop to work with out to press the gas.After i check with voltmetter the battery,i realised that was overcharging from
    the generator (was 15volt and when i press the gas the volt make up 16-17v).i thing that the problem was the generator,then
    i chaing the generator and the battery but the same problem.i check all the fuses is ok! i check also the connecions to the power
    train control module and all the others.
    With your experience can you please tell me if i can check somthing else
    thank
  • tommyluv78tommyluv78 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 JGC Laredo 4wd 4.0L that when i go down the highwat sometimes jerks stutters like the trans is slipping. I took it to a trans tech who looked it over and told me it was fine. He changed the fluid filter etc. It still does it. Another guy told me it could be my feul filter. My question is has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it?
  • mammamamma Member Posts: 5
    I had the same thing. MY O2 sensor was installed about 3-4 years ago. The new mechanic (diff shop) says that it was a "universal" O2 sensor which is really not so universal. It was shorting out and fried my computer ($500). Maybe you could check your sensors. My car started out sputtering for about 1 1/2 years in high elevations before it just took to stalling when it felt like it. IT is in the shop now, hopefully the new computer and O2 sensor will fix everything. Good luck :cry:
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    Hi, all, my Jeep when idling sounds like a tractor. It vibrates, spits and sputters, but doesn't stall, check engine light is on but not blinking . I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of where to start? I put dry gas, and premium gas in it thinking it was a gas problem but the check engine light is still on, and it is still running bad.
  • artco96artco96 Member Posts: 7
    First thing you need to do is get your Jeep scanned for trouble codes. Thats why your check engine light is on. Its trying to tell you its got code"s" stored in the computer from whatever is malfunctioning. Get it to your local mechanic and have them put it on their scanner. Or you can buy your own hand held scanner and code manual for around $75 to 100.00 at most of the popular Auto Parts outlets and troubleshoot it yourself. But my guess is it sounds like an " IAC" Valve or EGR valve giving you fits and needing attention.
    Hope this helps.
    Don
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks I'll try that.
  • dixiecrawlerdixiecrawler Member Posts: 89
    When you say that it sounds like a tractor when idling, is it knocking and rattling like a tractor? If it is, and it sounds like it's in the top end (heads and/or valves), there are some things you really need to check out. How is the oil pressure? How does the oil look? Is it dark brown or black, or light brown and milky? How long has this been going on? Have you or the previous owner had any major work done on the motor?
    If you haven't yet figured out the problem, answer these questions and then we can go from there. By the way, instead of buying a code reader that will only read and clear trouble codes, go to Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts and they'll scan your truck for trouble codes for free. Write down what the reader says for future reference. After you do all of this, post what you find out and maybe some of us can help. Let me know if you have any questions.
  • ciowensciowens Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 JGC; 6 cyl. It clicks when starting but won't fire. I have ruled out the relay switch and the starter (bench tested ok). I suspect the ignition coil or the ignition switch but I don't have a lot of experience in the ignition systems. Any suggestions?
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks so much for the advice. I took my Jeep to autozone, and it turns out no.3 spark plug had gone bad, for whatever reason. I did a total tune-up this past weekend. Changed and replaced oil, air filter, spark plugs and wires. The thing runs like a dream, and the check engine light went off. So seeings how everything is new, I hope I solved the isssue. Thanks so much for the advice.
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    Did you check to see if your battery is putting out enough voltage? Sometimes this is the most common problem. Before you go diving off into the ignition system. I don't have a lot of experience in that field either. Hope this helps.
  • ciowensciowens Member Posts: 2
    I'll try and jump it tonight. If she jumps, then I don't have enough cranking amps. If not, I'll check the wiring into the starter relay. The wierd thing is that I tapped the relay just (3) days ago and she started right up. I replaced the relay and now I'm back to square one. Thanks. I'll post the results.
  • charlie40charlie40 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all my first post just after a little help or guidance,I have a 97 jgc 4.0 auto which is converted to lpg but starts on petrol , while driving last week the check engine light came on so I checked all my levels and everything was fine as its recently had a service then after pushing a few of the connectors tightly together I started her up and the light had gone off , then this morning (7 days after) I had real problems starting her I had to crank for a good while and it died straight away twice before finally starting, drove to get my paper and same again long cranking to get going then the wife took it rest of the day and all was fine,any help much appreciated. cheers from charlie 40
  • moneymatmoneymat Member Posts: 1
    1994 jeep grand cheeroke laredo v8 5.2L Ok some times it wont try to start so you have to pop thehood and jiggle the batery or some times the fuse box. why is that?? ok but it will start with some messing with then when you get it started its like its running realy rough i had aa tune up on this 3 weeks ago new plugs and wires. it shakes when driving when stoped when running in park i resently had a transmission put on it. along with brake lines before the tranny went out it ran fine but some one said mabe the fuel filter? im trying to get an opinin before i dump a crap load more cash in it.
  • jeremy20jeremy20 Member Posts: 12
    Hello all, the oil pressure gauge goes to zero and the check gauges light comes on in my 2001 JGC, when I'm at a red light or whenever the vehicle is in drive and stopped for any length of time. But as soon as the RPM's start going up on take off, the pressure shoots back to normal. I have no idea what the problem is. I just had the oil changed and it is still doing this. When in park idling it is fine, it only does this when it is in drive and stopped still. No shaking or anything when pressure drops, but like I said check gauges light comes on and it dings. If anybody has any suggestions I'd really appreciate it.
  • quarkdudequarkdude Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    After all that I checked from the original post here, I finally gave in and bought an Optima red top battery from Costco. Cost about $130.00 but seems to be working now and the 2 day battery drain is gone. I had a Walmart battery that I replaced 3 times before going to the Optima. Seems to have fixed it. Hope this helps for others that have the same problem.
    .............quarkdude :)
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