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This GCLtd, with 5.2 V8 has 294, 000 miles on it and is ready for many more years of driving.
could gust be sending unit
i really appreciate your answer
tanks
It has always run with the temp gage just at the "Half way" mark on the temp gage. Lately when I am stopped at a traffic light, or just idling, the temp gage slowly creeps up. It has gotten close to the red mark on the gage, but never hit it. When I start driving again and the air is flowing thru the radiator, it cools back down.
Any suggestions to keep it from heating when Idling???
I have a 99 with 125,000 miles with the same problem and havn't been able to solve. Have you had any luck resolving this problem?
But, within a couple weeks it appeared to be "possessed". Started cutting out while driving, so quickly it was hard to know I stalled. It generally occurred while idling or at times of slowing down(pulling into parking lot). It would immediately start right up without hesitation.
Now it is becoming more frequent( multiple times in short trips & 95% of all trips to store!) & takes longer to start, today was over 10mins after it stalled. Also, it now will cut out while driving at any speed, don't have to be slowing down or idling. In addition, to the fact that it will also cut out while driving, but while I am pulling over it kicks back in & I'm driving again!!! ??? Also, today it stalled as I went over RRtracks & seemed to happen as we hit the bump???
Shortly after noticing the initial stalling(which was so weird and infrequent I wasn't sure it wasn't something I did accidently without realizing) It was parked in my driveway &cold, when I noticed it sounded like it was running....the fan turned itself on. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it, even then when I reconnected the battery it was still on.
Last thing, don't know if it is related, but the dealer did mention when we changed the fan relay switch to make sure to use rivets. My boyfriend, who was a mechanic for 15years had already done the job &we weren't worried that it was in with screws. The dealer had suggested though, it could cause electrical shorts? Is it as simple as putting another new switch in, but with rivets? Or is it something completely unrelated?
I apologize if this posted twice???? couldn't find the first one...I dont think I clicked the button.
any ideas?
thanks
A month or so ago as I was driving the dash lighta flickered and then stayed on but the car was still running fine. When I stopped, I turned off the car and when I tried to start it, nothing happen, no clicking, no nothing. After trying a few more times it started and off I went. All was fine after that untill the other day I backed my car up to my trailer, turn it off, got out and hocked everything up. Then got back in and turned the key, it started for a spilt second and died, now it simple turns over and doesn't start.
I removed the battery cables, cleaned them both and put back on (even though it turned over strong, thought I'd give a reset to the PCM modules). Turned the key and it still turns over but doesn't start, not even attemps to start. I checked the EFI pressure and it was fine, each time I releave the pressure it build back up when trying to start it again.
Anyone have any ideas?
Dennis
What's really odd is that if I shut it off and turn it right back on, I can drive off with no problems. Seems to happen mostly first thing in the morning or after sitting for a couple of hours.
Thoughts?
I was hoping someone might help-- My Cherokee (101k miles) has recently started bucking/hesitating at 2000 RPMs, usually on up hill climbs. OBD2 says multiple misfire....I replaced the plugs, same problem.
It tends to last a bit, than stop, usually accompanied by a blinking check engine light, which I assume is the misfire, then it runs fine. It rarely happens when I start it cold and drive to work (1+ hour)
It seems to do it more after short stops/restarts (like gas station, quick store stop), but it's getting worse.
Any thoughts? I'm thinking TPS?
I went to start my vehicle and nothing happened. It was like there was no power. No lights on the dash, no lights on the cd player, and I could hear a clicking noise. However I know the vehicle did have some power going through because I could hear the CD changer resetting.
After taking the key out and trying again it started. However immediatley after starting the vehicle died out. It did this another 10 or so times. I then started it and gave it some gas to keep it going, this worked and I was able to put it into drive.
Once it was in drive everytime I took my foot off the gas and attempted to stop/slowdown the RPM would drop to almost zero, then it would stall out.
Once I start it back up again, the RPM goes up and down a lot, and then it will eventually stall out again.
I took it to the garage and they replaced something to do with the throttle (I don't know the exact part) and they have replaced the MAP sensor.
Everything was working good until today, when I went to start it. First it did the same thing. At first no power, and a clicking noise. Then everything kicked on and it started.
Of course as soon as it started it immediately stalled out. Again it did this for another 5-6 times until I kept my foot on the gas and put it in drive. Again still when ever I take my foot off the gas or apply the breaks, the RPM drops to about 100-200, and then after a few moments it will die out.
After it runs for a few minutes in drive, if I shut it off and start it again, it will stay started, but the RPM will flucuate between 100-400, and then eventually stall out.
My garage doesn't seem to have any idea what could be causing this. And I don't want to keep dropping money into new parts that may or may not fix the issue. Any ideas what this could be?
Cruise control - while engaged, the rpm's go up and down continuously.
Any suggestions? :sick:
sounds as is your tps (throttle posising sencer) is dirty or bad
Thanks. What do you think?
goldenbetty
the tps tells the computer where the throttle plate is if it says that it is not all the way closed at idel the computer thinks that you are pushing on the gas tells injectors to inject more gas air mixture gets high with unbernt gas senced by oxy sencer tell computer to not inject as much gas tps sends reading that plates are open when they are if fact closed cycle starts all over
unplug the wires that plug in to computer and plug in unplug couple times see if that dont fix prob
could be dirty contacts unplugin and plugin in scrapes the contacts clean
I have replaced the fuel & air filters and done complete tuneup (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)
I'm not usre if these problems are related or separate issues. My main issue is the starting problem.
Any good suggestions? :sick: :confuse:
It is simply a faulty wiring knuckle but getting Jeep to fes up to it and turn it into a recall will be the fun part....hope this helps
Missy