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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

bkrneilbkrneil Member Posts: 2
edited September 2015 in Jeep
My 95 grand cherokee starts fine until the weather starts to turn cold below 52 degrees, then when you try to start it it turns over but stalls right off , it sound like the gas is being shut off, after sometimes 10 or better tries it finally starts like it never had a problem at all, and after it does start the jeep will start fine for the rest of the day. My son is a tech at a jeep dealership and say's it is the first like this he has run into, he has tried many different things to try to correct this problem, but it is still happening , has anyone run into this problem?? help!!

See Also
Edmunds Answers: Grand Cherokee Cold Start Problems
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Comments

  • bduttonbdutton Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 4.0L JGC with 170K miles. In the morning when I crank, it sounds like it barely is staying on. The idle is very rough. When I put in drive, it "miss fires" for a second or two then takes off. At stop lights, etc. it will stall on me. What could be the problem? I've read on here, possibly IAC, fuel pump, spark plugs. I don't want a new car, just some reassured confidence. Thanks!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Does it smooth out the instant you depress the accelerator? Meaning, if you lightly rev the engine to 1,000rpms, does the engine run smoothly? If that's the case, then yes the IAC is a primary suspect. Does the check engine light come on? If so, what codes are being returned? You can take it to AutoZone and they will read the codes for you. If the problem ONLY happens at idle, then I would rule out the fuel pump and spark plugs, at least just from what you've told me.
  • tkimagetkimage Member Posts: 1
    My dad has a 94 5.2 V8 JGC that did the exact same thing. It turned out that his EGR valve was bad, rather, the plastic valve was melted completely. Dramatic results!! :shades:
  • spiderman229spiderman229 Member Posts: 6
    I have problem with my 5.2 jeep grand cherokee 1995.
    when in idle the rpm go up and down
    i read alot about this problem on this forum and some other.

    so people say to clean the troudle body. so I did.
    some other pleople sugest to clean the idle valve located in the troudle body. dont remember what the name of the low idel valve. any way I clean the hold thing. and the problem still there

    the I go into error code messenge and I get error 32 is have something to do with the egr valve. so I clean that too. the problem is a little better but still there. and the error code is no longer there.

    but I still have small idle problem.
    can any body help here.
  • sarwarriorsarwarrior Member Posts: 1
    I've replaced the fuel filter; fuel pump; crankshaft position sensor; camshaft position sensor and PCM with zero luck. The check engine light went out after replacing all of the above, the camshaft position sensor was last, and all error codes cleared, however, it is still hard to start and stalls. I've taken it to two different mechanics & spent too much ca$h with no solution. ANY SUGGESTION(S) IS GREATLY APPRECEATED. Next post will be "JGC FOR SALE....CHEAP!!!!" :confuse:
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I didn't see a response to the question about if the engine smooths out under acceleration. A vacuum leak will cause stalling and rough running, but not when you are giving it the gas.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Another thought. If very slight pressure on the gas pedal when stopped smooths things out, you may not be getting enough air. Check the PCV orifice to make sure it is clear and you can also adjust the throttle body plate to stay open a little more when your foot is off the gas.
  • fwefwe Member Posts: 4
    I am having a similar problem, 96 Grand Cherokee, 6cyl, idles slow, and lopes. No vacum leaks, when I touch the accelator its smooths out. Could this be the IAC, no check engine light. Checked the CCV valve, plenty of suction, and cleaned. I am at a loss.. Possibly the fuel filter??
  • fwefwe Member Posts: 4
    My 96 grand cherokee is doing similar. Idles slow, lopes, checked, no vaccum leaks, CCV valve is clear, and hose has good suction. Does smooth out when I press the accelator and bring it above 750 rpms. However, no check engine light. Is this the IAC or possibly the fuel filter.. Its driving me crazy.
  • dotcom012dotcom012 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8. It has a problem running. You can be driving down the road and let your foot off the game and the jeep will just shut right off. If you say pull into a parking spot and let your foot off the gas it will shut off. Sometimes you can't even go out there and turn it on and have it stay running unless you keep your foot on the gas. I have heard stuff about the Idle Air Control Valve or anything that has to deal with the vehicle ideling. Any suggestions? I brought it to the jeep place here (an actual Jeep/chrysler place) and they said "We cannot duplicate the problem". I don't understand that becuase when i pulled it in there it shut off while it was still in drive. Needless to say that was a waste of money. So anyone have any ideas on why it may just want to shut off.

    Thanks
  • wolfblumwolfblum Member Posts: 1
    For everyone having stall problems with 95-97 JGC's (I can't speak to pre-95 vehicles) I may have something of interest. Our 96 JGC suffered just as described in the various above posts. I cleaned/checked fuel/ignition/IAC etc. etc. all to no avail. Everytime one came to a stop, it stalled out.

    I finally decided to measure and inspect the electrical system using my electronics laboratory test gear (not automotive diagnostics equipment), because I design electronics for a living. I found that we had a "hard" i.e., sulphated battery, which meant that the 13.8-14.4 so-called DC voltage coming from the alternator was really a very, very bad/ripply voltage (since the battery was not able to act as a smoothing filter if you will.)

    I put in a brand new battery, bingo! no stall problem anymore.

    How can this be you may ask, well methinks that Chrysler has cheaped out on the amount of voltage regulation/ripple rejection circuitry in the ECU, and hence that could certainly lead to the above stall symptom.

    Today's automotive technicians should be more than 80% focused on electronics rather than the mechanical, as that is usually the root cause of problems, unlike the old days. And heaven forbid that the great big software company should soon succeed in implanting Windows into our vehicles!!!

    Hope this is of interest or helps*****
  • dotcom012dotcom012 Member Posts: 5
    Well, i replaced the IAC valve today and so far not a single problem. My Jeep stays running and hasn't shut off so far. I will get a new battery anywaz to see if that helps anymore. If you happen to change the IAC remember to disconnect the battery before you do this. I guess it is like a computer, you have to restart it to find new hardware. I talked to some people who have just pluged it up after taking the old one out with the same problems. I will let you know on the battery thing though.
  • terribilterribil Member Posts: 1
    I had a good mechanic put a 4.0 Jasper in my 1989 Cherokee. He said it wouldn't start and he thought the problem was the ECU. He installed an ECU and the Jeep ran fine for about 4000 miles. Then it would start one day but not the next. When it doesn't start, there is no spark. I replaced the ICM, ignition coil, distributor, CPS, and EGR valve. It runs great but I never know when it may not start up.
  • keith28keith28 Member Posts: 1
    Well I replaced the battery in my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Inline 6 motor today and it starts up but the Check Engine light still comes on right away??

    Engine runs smooth, I don't get it?? Did a spark plug, wires, cap & rotor replacement well over a month ago and check engine light still comes on?? Infinity radio comes on but no sound and everytime I turn the brights on and off the Security light clicks and blinks once?? Anybody have similar problems, any help would greatly be appreciated as I don't have a lot of $$ right now!!
  • spiderman229spiderman229 Member Posts: 6
    I keep reading about this problem I have low idle.
    some one sugest to change the spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap so I did.
    I also change my fuel filter

    when I change my distributor cap I find out it was a big crack on it

    any way after all this the low idle and erratic continues.

    any body know the solution to my problem????
  • spiderman229spiderman229 Member Posts: 6
  • chris1973chris1973 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 jgc and the dealer couldn't figure out the problem. I found some where online that it could be the tps (throttle position sensor) so I changed it which took about 5 minutes and it fixed the problem completely!
  • jsamsjsams Member Posts: 3
    i have the same problem, i cleaned out the throttle body and replaced the a censor but still no luck i have learned that if you try and start the jeep by giving it gas then it will start after that put it in gear and drive it the whole time leave your foot on the gas when you hit second gear it will run fine on its own at an idol. tell me if you have heard any way to fix it
  • treschitreschi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Grand Cherokee and had a similar problem. While I am driving the engine suddenly shuts off. It usually happened when I stopped at a red light or when I pulled into a parking lot. I could only drive on if I left my foot permanently on the gas pedal. Since it only happened once in a while (and never at the dealership) the mechanics couldn't find anything. I decided to replace the pcv valve because that only cost me a couple dollars and is easy to do. Since that day the problem never occurred again!
  • lydiam99lydiam99 Member Posts: 2
    All,

    I have the SAME issue regarding the idle problem: vehicle will not idle, I have to pop it into Neutral to keep it from stalling out. It is fine once I drive it for a distance (not sure exactly how far it takes, never compared) without stopping. All the above postings really helped with diagnosing.
    One thing I had before this was when using lights at night, the interior lights will get really dim and barely visible, and I literally "hit" the headlights lever/dial to get them to come back bright again. Used to work, but that barely works anymore. Then started that idle issue, which went from a very few instances, to about every time I drive now. That with the flickering interior lighting, REALLY makes me lean towards the electrical problem and not so much the IAC, TPS, or PCV replacement.

    Any thoughts??
  • lydiam99lydiam99 Member Posts: 2
    ADDITION:

    What I mean by "Interior Lights" is the dashboard lights, clock/radio lights, etc....
  • blackbird220blackbird220 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 JGC 5.2 that is hard to start and when it does it runs for about 3 seconds and shuts off, if you try to give it any fuel at all it immediately shuts down. any ideas?
  • jman11jman11 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 JGC will start up and then bog down and then it will just fire up this is the first time this has happend and i was wondering if there was any solutions? Thanks
  • fwefwe Member Posts: 4
    Ok, here goes, I cured this problem, after changing the IAC, no help, I checked the Throttle Position Sensor, it was bad, changed it and problem is now cured!!!!!!
  • jgurrolajgurrola Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing exact same problem with my 1996 GC. Any ideas how to fix this? I have owned this car since 1998 and no problems of this type until now.

    Thanks
  • the_skepticthe_skeptic Member Posts: 4
    Lydiam99,

    Did you ever get that problem fixed? I'm having the EXACT same issue with my '98 JGC 5.9. The lights on the dashboard have been dimming for some time now, and the engine has started to die when I take my foot off the gas. I'm hesitant to take it to a dealer since the problem doesn't always happen. It would be my luck that it would malfunction all the way to the dealer and then when the dealer checked it out it would be fine. Any help that you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    -Scott
  • fwefwe Member Posts: 4
    Scott, yes I did, it was the TPS, AKA Throttle Position Sensor, I changed it ( very easy to do, if you have a throtle body, its located on it, takes about 10 min.) and the problem is cured... good luck. Suggestion, get the Hayes Repair Manual, it is a big help... the part is inexpensive, $30 - $40, and it is an easy task. Good luck
  • the_skepticthe_skeptic Member Posts: 4
    Thank you very much. I'll give it a try.

    -Scott
  • trelliswesttrelliswest Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I too have a '98 JGC with the dimming light problem and the stuttering of power. Did you get the problem fixed? If you don't mind, I like to hear whatyou did. Was it spendy?
    Thanks for your time,

    :sick:
    Trelliswest
  • the_skepticthe_skeptic Member Posts: 4
    I haven't had the time to try this yet. When I do, I'll let you know.

    -Scott
  • holey24holey24 Member Posts: 2
    Hey all..got a 1994 JGC 5.2..last year at this time my Jeep would not start and you could hear the relay clicking...my local dealership determined that it was an O2 sensor and that they were getting no response from the ECM. I bought a used ECM and replaced it and the Jeep worked fine..until the summer when it started to just stall..it would sputter and I would have to rev it to keep it going...then it would sometimes rev itself and thge RPM's would shoot all over..now what's happening is my voltage meter is dropping whenever I use anything (lights, heat etc) and the sputtering is back in full force..but the last two things only happen when the Jeep is warmed up. Sometimes it starts back up..other times it will not fire and the only way to get it to run is to unhook the ECM and re-hook it back up..then it starts right up...oh one last thing..when my central monitor reads 10000km to service, the Jeep sputters and shuts off..happened THREE times in a row and once I reset it, it works fine. But oddly my km's to service reset to 12068km's..what's that all about? HELP ME BOYS!!!
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    You're absolutely right - DC / Jeep takes enormous pride in trying to out-Lucas the 'Prince of Darkness' with electrical gremlins. Fortunately most are more easily remedied than your old Brit-mobile.

    Connectors get oxidized & throw off the ECU sensor voltages. Cleaning them with contact cleaner (non-solvent base!) & putting a little dielectric grease in them can often work wonders. Sometimes a ground jumper wire around a bad connector is enough to fix a particular issue - depends on the circuit affected.

    For the Jeeps made since AMC got out of the game - ground cables are known issues. Just expect it to cause problems one day so go ahead now and spend less than $5 to replace the braided factory one from the engine to the firewall with a generic battery ground cable w/ eye terminals on each end.

    While I focus on Jeep XJ's with the older RENIX based engines, I'll gladly help anyone I can or at least point you in the correct direction for help. You can contact me in this thread or on my email form at my website:

    Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    finally i have others with my same problem. i have a 1996 JGC, 4.0 and have the flickering dash lights, doors only lock and unlocking on occasion, jumping idle at stops and when cold, stalling when at stops, all very random and increasing in occurence. i have replaced the feul pump last year, also the ignition coil, IAC, and just replaced cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires, as i knew i needed those done. still same problem. my next step is going to be the fuel filter again, and possibly the throttle position sensor. any other ideas? other than this mystery, i love my jeep. also, should i disconnect the battery in order for the computer to find the new IAC?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Check your ground cable from the engine to the firewall + from the battery. Everything you describe isn't just random, nor (we hope...) is your Jeep possessed! Common to all these things is the electrical system and bad ground cables are VERY common - especially the braided garbage cable from the engine to the firewall.

    There is also a electrical feed plug on the firewall than can, on occassion, give problems. It's low on the list of suspects but the vast majority of electrical connections to the interior run though it.

    If you have a straight drive - make sure there hasn't been any leakage of fluid from the clutch master cylinder down the inside beneath your dash onto the fuse panel, or any electrical connectors. It's nothing more than brake fluid and eats up many plastics & paint.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    thanks for the tip. i will try replacing that ground cable today and see what happens. i will let you know.
    thanks so much!
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Yes, please post back! It's a cheap fix of a common item that causes a LOT of wierd behavior on these vehicles. Should cost under $5.00 at AutoZone etc... It will eliminate that engine ground strap as a potential cause & we can go from there.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    i don't trust myself to figure out which cable wire it is....i think i may have to ask someone to do it for me. i went and bought the generic cable with the eye terminals at each end.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    No worries - Open the hood.
    Look on the firewall near the engine on the driver-side.
    There should be a flat, braided steel cable bolted there that runs from that point over to the rear of the engine's head.

    If that's gone then you should see the bolt hole there, perhaps with the bolt still there. (Metric size, I think.) You can just run the new cable from that point and bolt it to the back of the engine or head. (Not on the manifold or valve cover bolts - those are not good ground points either.)

    I think I have a schematic on my site of the engine bay. Let me check & I'll repost.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    i looked and i don't see a braided steel cable anywhere. and many of my cables and wires are covered in those black plastic covers. hmm. i wish i could find it, as i am so curious about this. let me know if you find the schematic of the engine bay.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Yes, I have the schematic. Wasn't posted on my site but I'm editing the files right now. My XJ isn't here or I would just shoot a photo & post it for ya... I'll do that as an edit for the article I'm getting ready to post to my site in a few days but the schematic should help you find it.

    On older 4.0L's the ground cable wasn't braided - it was just part of the engine harness but went to the same locations. Sorry, I thought you had a newer XJ (the forum format here isn't the greatest & I simply didn't pick up on it.)

    Just to double check - post your model, year & engine size... but here's what to look for on a 4.0L engine:

    Look on your engine's dipstick tube. (Holds the dipstick that you use to check oil.) It's bolted to the passenger side of the block. The bolt that holds it in place to the block should have a wire grounded to it.
    THAT is the engine end where the OEM harness connection on my 1990 XJ goes to the block. Make sure your new cable is long enough to go from there to the firewall bolt.

    To begin:
    Engine end:
    You can bolt your new cable to the dipstick tube bolt, or any other available bolt - but for simplicity - let's assume you choose that one.

    Just remove the nut, pull off the existing ground wire, scuff up the area a bit with a wire brush if you'd like, install one end of your new cable there, reinstall the OEM ground wire, replace the nut & tighten. (Don't overdo it but get it tight.)

    Firewall end:
    Standing in front of your Jeep, facing the windshield... Look for a bolt on the firewall, about 8" to the right of center and near the upper side of the firewall. It should be a black wire with a metal connector on the end being held down by a bolt. Once you see it, just remove that bolt. The OEM ground wire will likely come off with it - no problem. Just remove the OEM ground wire and SCUFF THE WIRE's CONNECTION METAL with a wire brush or sandpaper. Install your new ground cable beneath the OEM ground wire and reinstall the bolt.

    I'll have those diagrams up in a few minutes for you and post the URL here.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    I'll try to post pics to this same page in a few days. Here's a link to the ground strap diagrams.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    my jeep is a 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6cl, 4.0, 2WD. if that helps at all. i will take a look again shortly and look for that ground cable.
    again, thanks so much for being here and your willingness to help out. i have been at my wits end with this problem for so long......fingers crossed!
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Glad to help! Just hoping that this is the source of your problems - the symptoms fit but I've been wrong before. Either way - under $5 & you help eliminate this as a cause.

    Forgot to mention but I highlighted the areas to look for in yellow on the diagrams.

    Your Grand Cherokee's engine is a newer version of the one in my standard XJ model Cherokee but we can treat it the same for this problem.

    Grand Cherokees I've seen do have that ground strap as described but if your engine has been pulled / replaced / serviced in the past it may have been removed and not reinstalled... Or I may be all wet and yours will have the same standard black insulated wire as mine! :)

    Either way - this ground wire causes so many erratic issues that drive people nuts it isn't funny. Should have been a factory recall item for correction.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    ok, so i found where the oil dipstick tube is bolted to the side of the engine. but the wire that leads from there does NOT go to the firewall. i found that large bolt on the firewall just to the right of center, but nothing is connected to it. it extends out pretty far, and has a rubber tip on the end. sorry to be such an amateur, but i am a bit confused. but those diagrams really helped. i will ask my husband to take a look too when he gets home. perhaps i am just not seeing something.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Ok - you can still use that dipstick bolt & run the cable from there to that bolt on the firewall with nothing connected to it. The grounds that connect to the dipstick tube/motor must be left connected - they are harness grounds, but you can just add the new cable right to the same point if you'd like.

    Evidently, your OEM ground strap has been removed when the engine was worked on. It may even be hanging down behind the motor and still connected to the harness so do a quick check for that. (I've also seen them just ripped off and left hanging torn by mechanics who think the motor mounts will ground the motor properly. NOT! )

    HTH

    Feel free to access my mail form on my website and email me directly - I can give you guys my Yahoo name & I can walk you through it online. A link to mail me is on every tech page.

    Link to my site:
    Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    you are awesome...thanks so much! if we can't get to it tonight, you will be hearing from me tomorrow. thanks a million.
  • melina3melina3 Member Posts: 10
    ok, so we just installed the generic cable with the eye ends, one end to the oil dipstick tube, it had 2 wires already connected to it that run from there through the top right side of the engine. so we took those 2 off and placed one end of our new cable on, then placed those 2 on top, and tightened all 3 onto the ground there at the oil dipstick. then we ran that new cable and connected it to the bolt/ground at the center dash/firewall. you said this bolt should be about 8" from the center toward the drivers side, but this one is almost directly dead center. i also see another one on the passengers side with nothing connected to it.
    anyway, the cable is now connected to the engine/oil dipstick mount/ground and to the bolt sticking out from the dash. and i started it up and it still seems a bit rough and idle unstable. but we will see about the stalling tomorrow. if so, i will be asking what next...you mentioned another cable running to the battery before?

    thanks again...i will keep you posted.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Feel free to access my mail form ...

    Members can access your email address right here if you set your email address to "visible" in your user profile. You can also use your CarSpace.

    tidester, host
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Thanks for the heads up on CarSpace - actually I hide it deliberately to help reduce spam. My email form is through a third party mailer so my email address is never "out there" / visible unless I reply. Doesn't stop the spam problem but does extend the time between address changes.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Ok, dipstick end is correct - it had the harness grounds there.

    I don't have a Grand Cherokee FSM ( factory service manual ) so I cannot verify the firewall ground point in the center... It may be there BUT when I personally helped someone with a Grand fix this I recall the cable ran to the driver side of the firewall. (Again - that Grand had a factory installed flat, braided ground strap.)

    Is there a threaded hole in the location I described?

    Or an empty one nearby that looks like it may had a bolt in it at one time?

    If you used a bolt that had a painted area beneath it - you should ensure that there is good metal to metal contact. (We don't want to sand off all the paint... only a small area DIRECTLY beneath the cable terminal)

    What about your gages & other erratic behavior? Was there any change in the other symptoms?

    (Idle issues with these engines area also common - usually vacuum leaks etc...)

    Has it thrown any codes / check engine light staying on? (You can get a free code scan at your local AutoZone.)

    We'll keep at it until I run out of cheap/free ideas!
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