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we have 3 jeeps and have removed them from all 3 (just in case)
Dave
Here is where it gets weird. I was turning the key to start and let it come back to run position a few times then all of a sudden on like the 4th try, the dash board lit up and the vehicle started fine. Needless to say this leaves a very bad feeling when driving out far from home especially since the wife uses this vehicle too.
This morning, I go out to start it and again no power but this time, all the guages(exept the Tach and Speedo) were pulsing up and down. This is with no key in or anything. They were going by themselves. I went to the battery and was getting a variable reading of between 6-8 volts. (pulsing like the gauges). I unhooked the battery and reconnected and everything powers up again fine and the battery is now reading normal at 12.5 volts.
Before unhooking the battery this last time I was pulling fuses and relays to try and isolate a possible short and got the pulsing to stop on the gauges when fuse Skim/Hood Lmp or Overhead RRwipe was pulled. Not sure if related but it did make the gauges stop bouncing. No relays being pulled stopped it.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to get trapped out somewhere with this thing dead. This may be the obivous and just be a bad battery(bought 1.5 years ago but you never know.) going to have it tested later today.
Again the main thing that stands out is when I unhook the battery then reconnect, it seems to correct itself and power up fine (and even odder, it goes from reading variable 6-8 volts to 12.5 after the disconnect reconnect)
Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.
AND IF THIS DOESNT WORK TRY THE CAM SENSOR ( AKA THE IGNITION PICK UP COIL INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER TO THE COIL BY USING A TEST LIGHT. GROUND THE TEST LIGHT AND CHECK THE GREEN / ORANGE WIRE AT THE COIL FOR POWER THEN PUT THE TEST LIGHT ON + AND CHECK THE GRAY / WHITE WIRE FOR GROUND. HOPE IT HELPS
This problem would have me pulling my hair out if I had any to spare!
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a9f71
use this url to read about it
2. Replaced battery (it was low)- no joy.
3. Checked PCM cover screws- no joy.
4. Cleaned middle knuckle electrical connection- no joy.
This problem is that the engine won't stay running after it starts when it it cold outside (approx. below 30 degrees). When it's a little bit warmer (35-40 degrees), this problem does not occur, it starts and stays running.
It was at the mechanic all day today and it was acting up all day. The mechanic ended up cleaning the throttle plate (carbon build up) and making an adjustment to the idle screw.
Any suggestions??
It will not crank over at all, just clicks. Will let it sit for a few minutes and it will slowly crank over til it starts. Sometimes it will run rough and die without the gas pushed but eventually will smooth out.
This morning it was below 30 degrees for the first time and the battery is completely dead.
I am just frustrated. If I had any clue that this problem existed, I would never have bought a Jeep.
I used the On-Board Diagnostic System and it gave the following messages: Power to Powertrain Control Module was disconnected and Throttle Position Sensor input below/above acceptable voltage. What should I do? Are these problems related? I just sold the car to my cousin (before this happened) but I don't want to give it to him like this, at the same time I gave it to him for a very low price so I don't want to spend too much fixing it either. Help?
Can anyone help when my car is warm, not at proper running temp and not cold it sometimes wont start. It is a 1999 4.7l V8. We've replaced the crank sensor, and fuel pump still no joy, it shows a fuel error when it dosent start but my garage cant find the problem it also has an LPG conversion but this has been checked and apparently is fine. Please if anyone can help I would be very grateful.
Claire
Thanks Chuck
We are frustrated and back to square one. It will be hard for a shop to diagnose if it is currently running.
Any suggestions or advise on what to do? Frustrated in DFW!
Thanks
Been looking at some of your posts to see if they mirror my problem but none quite do. Just got off the phone with my neighborhood service station who couldn't figure out what was wrong. Here's the problem:
On cold days (especially) engine stalls and cuts out even after its been running for a good 20-30 minutes. Seems to happen especially when I'm moving slowly (<20 mph) down a side street and go to make a turn. Also happens just sitting in park and sometimes when I go to move out at a traffic light or stop sign. Thought maybe there is a fuel system problem but mechanic said no because it starts right back up. He put it on their diagnostic machine and it's not showing any codes or problems. Asked what to do and he said probably it's an electrical problem and will need to go to the dealership (AHHH!!).
I'd appreciate any suggestions or advice.
CB
I'm having a stalling problem and my mechanic can't figure it out. Said basically take it to the dealer or wait for it to get worse!
Anyway, thanks.
CB
:lemon: :sick: By big red needs some serious medical assistance so please reply if you know whats going on with her.