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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • dindihdindih Member Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum...

    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 4.7L V8 engine. Like many JGC owners, I had had many problems along the way.

    Last week the car began acting out during start-up and would die immediately after a start (after trying several times) and would die in idle if the gas pedal was not pushed down to supply extra gas. The lights would dim, the car would make a big hesitation as if dying out with a faint crank. After turning the key several times to start the car up, it would start and would die immediately in idle if extra gas is not supplied in high rpm idle by pushing the gas pedal...

    The lights in the car would otherwise work fine, the gauges, the power seats etc would function... The voltage gauge would show 13-14 volts on the dashboard analog gauge once it went through a successful start-up by supplying extra gas for 30-60 seconds.

    This went on for about a week until I replaced the battery yesterday and all the problems were solved... My battery was an AC Delco battery with a 7-year warranty and had just completed 4 years of use this month.

    I was thinking either a malfunctioning TPS, an IAC valve or a crankshaft sensor, but wanted to take the battery question out of the way first...

    Reading this post last night gave me this idea... I appreciate all the help... and wanted to give a feedback...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome to CarSpace.

    Did you by any chance have the battery tested before replacing it?
  • dindihdindih Member Posts: 2
    Yes, it was necessary for me to receive a partial credit and the test showed that the battery was bad...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, sometimes batteries die early or sit on the lot in the heat for six months. Four years isn't unheard of although I usually get a few more than that on mine.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i live in az and 2 to 21/2 years is all iget out of my batteries
  • 96jeep296jeep2 Member Posts: 11
    The light at the end of the tunnel........

    Oh my, what along dark road! At this point, I dont even know were to start! Well I guess the car would be a good start. I have a 1996 jeep grand cherokee leraido. In the beginning my car would die on the high way sometimes not start, stall at the stop signs, lights,etc.. If I waited a few hours it would start up no problem and run fine, even sometimes it would start up after 20 mins. I changed, the crank and the cam position sensor if fact an entire new distributor, and the cap, rotor, plugs, wire, coil, Idle air, m.a.p. sensor, and what ever that third sensor on the throttle body was, I changed that too!, I cleaned the throttle body and the intake, put new fuel filter/pump, and injectors. At that point the only this left to change was the pcm, so what did I do? Yup you guessed it, I changed that too! At this point I found out there are a couple of recall's, had that done by the dealership, and when they were done with that, I asked them to find out what was wrong with the car, after 2 weeks of having the car, still no luck they could not tell me what was wrong with me car, oh but dont worry they still figured out a way to charge me! so after i towed my car out of the dealer ship and paid the 125 doller diognostic fee ugh!!!! My car still did not start at that point. I brought it to my mothers mecahnic, they had the car for 4 weeks, I just got the call that the car is running just fine. The car is fixed!!!! I dont know how much I owe scarry thought! but I do know what was wrong with the car. You ready? I tryed to keep you in suspence, did it work? Well any-ways. My car had a 1997 transmission in it becuase @ 125000 miles it needed a new one. Now @ 211000, miles I find this out. well when I address the origanal issue and the very first the I replaced. The crank sensor, well I got a "96" one in and not a 97, thus cuasing all these probelms! Are you picking up what I am putting down. Althought the model for a 96 fit, it was not conducive. It did not work! Moral of this stroy is, when ever you do work on your car, dont asume becuase the make model and year of the car is one thing, that the tranny or the engine transfer case or anything eles is the same, expeshally when it's and older car! This car had alot of work done to it! i am going to keep it! and when I buy a new car, it will be a luxry one! I think i will try and hit 300,000miles with this strait six! what do you thing will it make it? cheers and good luck, i got some body work to do now!
  • 96jeep296jeep2 Member Posts: 11
    Oh let me give a little bit more detail, it was the air gap between the end of the crank sensor and the flywheel. The sensor was actually touching the fly wheel. If this air gap is not correct it will throw off the entire car! lesson learn quality over quantity ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!
  • sccorp8sccorp8 Member Posts: 1
    I had similiar problems with my jeep as far as I can tell it is related to the ignition and alarm, if it happens again and you are stuck somewhere, just remove both cables from the battery for about 20 seconds then put them back on turn the key to the start position and wait for everything on the dash to light up then start the car. since this is the first time this is happening to you, I can tell you it will get progressively worse, the only solution I have found to date is to not use the alarm fob lock the doors manually when you exit the vehical and use the key to open the car, the dealer as always has been useless. good luck
  • valelfvalelf Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with my 2001 jeep grand cherokee. I took it to the automotive place twice and they found nothing wrong with, but it keeps on dying on me. i drive it to run arrands and it just dies. then like 20 mins later it starts up and drives like nothing........I thought it would be the battery so replaced it but it still dies. can anybody give me advice?????
  • fjnordyfjnordy Member Posts: 2
    I am having trouble with my 1993 Grand Cherokee Laredo (Automatic 4.0 with 6 plugs). I purchased this vehicle out of a barn where it had been sitting for a couple of years. I was having trouble starting. I.E. would crank for up to three minutes before it would start. I have since replaced the cap and spark plug wires, spark plugs, the crank sensor on the fly wheel. (Boy was that a treat and thank god for having a mechanic for a neighbor and friend helping me!) After not being able to get it to start for a week straight, I was sitting inside the jeep thinking my next steps. I noticed the computer display panel by the Automatic shifter wsn't set. I set the the time and date, then said what the heck "I'll give it a try." The car started after hearing clicking noises from the relays. I have since then noticed that when I turn the key in the ignition, my jeep does its normal bulb checks and starts fine. Yet if the CHECK ENGINE light does not appear when it does the bulb check in the display panel, it will not start. When this light does not turn on, I do not get fuel pressure or spark to the plug.
  • veddyveddy Member Posts: 2
    I have been experiencing the dreaded "engine randomly shuts off while driving" problem that seems to plague a lot of Jeep owners with high mileage. However, I'm not getting any codes that would indicate any problems(Just code 12) No check engine light... Nothing.

    I just took it for another test drive, and it stalled again about 4 miles up the road, however, instead of immediately pulling over, I decided to put my foot in the pedal, and the engine fired right back up and I went on driving.

    Before when it stalled out, I just pulled right over in fear that if I did anything else I could possibly damage something, but this time I just gave her some gas, and like a light switch it fired right back up.

    I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin. Replaced fuel filter/Dist cap & rotor/Plugs & wires... etc

    Throttle position sensor? Crank position sensor? MAP sensor?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • 96jeep296jeep2 Member Posts: 11
    I had the same problem, after alont of time and money, i figured out what the problem was, the crankshaft postition sensor. Now, this was the very first this I did, and it did not resolve the issue, becuase the crk sensor in on the driverside of the bell housing on top, a few years ago i had a tranny job done, they put in a 1997 tranny in, my car is a 96 so beware what parts your working with.
  • bshockleybshockley Member Posts: 2
    Just wanted to update my orig. post. So my Jeep finally threw me a bone and the Check Engine light finally came on (prob be the only time I'm happy to see that light...lol) So I checked it and its reading Code 21 (Problem with O2 sensor). I'm going to check the wires and more than likely replace the sensor this weekend. Crossing my fingers and hoping this is the reason for the failed emissions. Keep ya'll up to date after I fix it. ;)
  • veddyveddy Member Posts: 2
    I installed a new Crank position sensor now my jeep idles like crap. Sounds like it is missing really bad. Like a bad plug or just misfiring. I doubt its a plug or anything else besides the CKS because it idled just fine with the old one but was stalling while driving.
  • driftnismo240driftnismo240 Member Posts: 1
    Ok I have a 95 jeep cherokee I just put a new motor in. the motor was from a 89 jeep cherokee, the intakes wasn't the same so I change the one of the old motor to the new one. The problem is it will crank but it wont start, but there's a trick it act like it wants to start when you first crank it, but after that it just cranks, but when I pull the fuel pump relay out and try to start it, it cranks a couple of times and then starts up and runs for about 20 to 50sec and runs really really rough, and then dies. Please some one help.
  • cgoleycgoley Member Posts: 1
    the problem is a crank sensor located on driver's side near the top of the transmission i know this cause i was having same problem i took it to the dealer to have it fixed cost was 299.00 but was worth it cause there were a bunch of re-call that needed to be fixed on my jeep good luck..
  • dakotajeepdakotajeep Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 (4.7) JGC limited. Intermitantly all gauges would bounce everywhere when trying to start it. If I would press the brake, all gauges would return to normal, and the vehicle would start. Never had an issue while driving. Now the battery is being drained, and sometimes the gauges would bounce even after the vehicle is shut off. I can jump it, but it will be drained the next time I jump in. I've read someone suggesting an ignition switch. Has anyone had this problem or have any idea what I can try? Thank you for any info!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how old is the battery? could have bad cell in it
  • deratristarderatristar Member Posts: 14
    As ironic as it sounds, I had an issue with my 2000 JGC, which was a bad battery. My Jeep started popping off a P1474 error, yet there wasn't a problem with the exhaust that could be found.

    Then my battery started to have problems on Saturday. Slow cranking, then would turn over. Got worse and worse over Sunday and Monday. Went back to Walmart, who diagnosed a bad cell in the battery, and replaced it no charge (I purchased it there, about 1 yr ago).

    You might want to have the battery and cables checked.
  • osborneash2osborneash2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 Jeep Grand ch, V8 will turn off while driving, it is my main car I travle all day with kids, this is not safe! It may do it one week then not the next. I have taken it to the dealer and ran the tests on it and nothing is showing on the computer to show a problem. It will do it at random, it has happened at 35mph and today at 75 on the highway. No lights on the dash show. The dealer said until a light shows they can not know the problem. Help!!!!!
  • mmalungommalungo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, in the last few days i haven't been able to drive it. It starts, but after a few seconds it dies, has been always like that. What could be the possible problems. I thought it was the alarm system because before i had a problem in which the car wouldnt start, because i had lost the remote, but i'm just confused. Anybody has an idea what it might be?
  • kolaidman24kolaidman24 Member Posts: 1
  • valelfvalelf Member Posts: 2
    the problem is with the crank shaft senor. change it and it will run.
  • jhonpjhonp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee a year ago I had the same problem turned out to be the tac censor located on to of the transmission on the bell housing. Not hard to replaced except for where its located a couple of extentions ans 1/4 " rachet and socket should help out.
  • jhonpjhonp Member Posts: 2
    2000 Jeep grand cherokee pushing 215,000. miles stills runs good but now at low idle in or out of gear it idles at or bellow 5,000 rpm sometimes so low that it stalls out. When I give it gas it runs good until the vehicle comes to a stop, then it dies. Temperature does seem to have an effect the colder the outside temp or if the eng is cold it seems to do it more often, It is not a consistent problem, but it occurs often. I took it to a shop a while back they said the check eng light threw out air intake censor problem, I replaced it twice each time it helps for a little while then goes back to same old pattern. Now whatever code its throwing out, the check eng light does not stay on all the time, its on and off. I am kind of tight on cash right now specially the way things are these days, Just getting the code read is going to cost over $100.00, am a diesel mechanic but gas engines are a headache! Does any body have any advice? Please :confuse: hellllpppppp!!!!!!!!
  • aneke007aneke007 Member Posts: 3
    I have been experiencing the same thing and have had my Jeep in the shop since May and have not been able to drive it. I had them Change the crank shaft sensor, the cam shaft censor, and the temp censor, all with great expense and none of it worked. When it was put on the machine to see what was wrong it always came up as the crank shaft and cam sensors. I called my dad and he called everyone he knew with a jeep and low and behold the problem was a $30.00 part called the ignition coil. It took five minutes to put on. My Jeep is now running. Thank God! Hope this helps.
  • aneke007aneke007 Member Posts: 3
    Auto zone $ 30.00 ignition coil you can put on yourself. This part does not show up on those machines. My car would come to a stop and die. I would drive and would stall, it was hesitant and not a consistant problem. My dad researched and found that several people have the same problem. Most people have changed their crank sensor and cam shafts twice before asking a friend with a Jeep if they knew what the problem was. It is the ignition coil that sends the right information to the car iginition system to function properly. Good Luck.
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    GOT NO CODES.....
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling.
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts NOT POSITIVE ON THE PARTS PRICES
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....
    SWAPPED OUT THE ECU AND
    THIS SEEMS TO HAVE SOLVED IT........ IF I WERE YOU I WOULD START WITH THE ECU
    alan
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Did you figure this out? My 99 grand cherokee just did this yesterday. first thing, i started car but got strange abs light on, i gave gas, it went out, and i drove. after i shut off, i tried to start again, acted like no batterey, no cranking, no interior lights or dash lights, then gauges flipped to max, interior light worked, radio clock at 12:00, dash lights ok and started. i turned off and on a few times ok, then it does again.Battery is strong when system comes back up and starts right up, but acts like no battery or bad batterey when fail is happening. i read a similar post that someone said ignition coil, could it be a intermittent short? I had a new crank position sensor 3 months ago, that was a different problem, car cranked but would not fire for that problem. This one acts like battery is not on.
    Below is the post i am replying to.

    "I had the EXACT same problem yesterday. My issue began after the vehicle was running. I heard a loud pop from the radio speakers and observed the voltage gauge floating while driving. After I got home and turned the Jeep off, it would not crank. No interior or brake lights, nothing at all that indicated I even had a battery connected. All of my gauges were pulsing and flipping over wildly with or without the key in the ignition and I could hear a faint clicking noise timed perfectly with the pulsing of the gauges. I let it sit for about an hour and it finally looked normal on the dash and sure enough - it turned over fine and all my gauges are back to normal. Even the pre-sets on the radio are still there. The only noticeable difference is that my clock on the radio is wrong.
    Did you ever find out the problem?
    Has anyone else encountered this problem and if so - what's my next step in troubleshooting this issue?"
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    last time mine would not start, the battery cable was loose..... just a little but it was enough, cleaned the post and the cable reconnected and it has been fine since.
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    My 95 GC 5.7 auto. stalls predictably after a few miles. RIt restarts and stumbles and dies unless I pump the gas. After a couple restarts in less than a minute it will start and run. The last time it started I held the throttle at 2500 RPM and it ran and lost 500 RPM then went back to 2500 RPM a couple times as if there was some kind of switch being thrown. 30 seconds later it was fine. It won't do this again unless stone cold many hours later. No indicators as to the problem though the tach says the idle is 300 RPM. Cold RPM starts at 800-1000 RPM. Once it is through with it's warm up fit, it will run normally. My mech. is going nuts and says this is new to him. I started it at home last week and let it idle. In 20 minutes it stalled just like the driving probs. BTW, it never stalls while going down the road, only when coming to a stop sign or red light.
    Bill
  • 99wjguy99wjguy Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 grand cherokee ltd 4.7. jeep runs fine at a high rpm and rough at low rpm and stalls when you put it in gear and try to drive. i have changed idle air control, throttle position sensor, gave it a tune up, cleaned fuel lines, and checked fuel pressure, even bought a new ECM. i dont know what else could be the problem. Any ideas???
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.
    if you are not getting anu codes ..... that malkes me think ECU


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2)
    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    Just reporting in on what fixed my problem i am replying to. After reading on different forums i gave this a try: I pulled the battery relay from the under hood fuse box(this is basically the same as disconnecting battery), then i disconnected all three computer plugs located on firewall behind coolant add bottle, and reconnected them. This is enough to clean any minor corrosion off pins of connectors which may perhaps cause a weak or intermittent signal from sensors to computer. So far 3 weeks later there has been no more issues.
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    Just got the Jeep back (95GC) and the crank sensor was going bad. At
    start-up, as it heated, it would become intermittant then work again once
    past a certain temp. After several days it began to stay internittant and
    could be more easily located. No engine service light would come on. The
    shop also found the throttle sensor was failing and a sensor having to do
    with water temp was bad. The engine runs now and feels normal in every way
    so it was at least one of those or all of those sensors that appears to be
    have been the problem. $390. and several shop hours. This rig came from
    Salt Lake City and there is corrosion on the engine aluminum parts. I
    bought some electrical contact cleaner and will carefully be separating the
    connections and reconnecting them per the advice I've read here. I've seen
    some signs of oxidation and the door speaker is going "intermittant" also.
    135,000 miles. Thanks all!
    WillyT
  • dcbakerdcbaker Member Posts: 2
    hello all.
    i have a 1994 JGC limited with a 4.0 6cyl. my wife was driving down the road when it all of a sudden just stalled and died. it would start back up then run for a couple of min and die again. when i got to here about 30 min later it ran for about 7 miles and died again. it acts like the fuel just shuts off. i changed the relay for the auto shut off still dies. no check engine light no nothing just dies. if any one can help i would be willing to try any thing.
  • dcbakerdcbaker Member Posts: 2
    would it crank over for a while before it would start?
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    Baker:

    If you read my problem/solution for my 95 GCL V8 (135K miles) it was the crankshaft sensor which caused my rig to act exactly like the symptoms you describe. It was very sporadic at first then deteriorated quickly and eventually making it "easy" to find. In the course of fixing that problem the mech found 2 other sensors going bad and replaced them too, the throttle control and water temp sensors. Runs great again. I had no engine light come on either. Hope it helps.
    Bill
  • black_913black_913 Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing difficulty getting the vehicle started without keeping the accelerator peddle pressed down. Also whenever the peddle is released the vehicle stalls immediately.

    This problem began after I pressed the reset button on the "Overhead Console" . That was as a result of being unable to use the keyless remote transmitter to open the vehicle. The key was used to open the door but attempt to start the vehicle failed for it turned out the battery was dead. A new battery since be placed and the keyless remote works but the vehicle refuses to start and idle unless the accelerator pedal is hold down.

    Could you advise on what to do to solve that problem please.
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    All:
    Thought my mech had it licked but the '95GCL parked along side the road stalling at 40 mph on the way to the hospital. Nice. Restarted 5 or 6 times goosing the gas and it finally stayed running and resumed my trip with it choking and puking along the way. Got another appointment. Check engine light came on this time. This morning I had to make the same trip on a sheet of ice as the 2WD honda would not have made it. Passed 6-8 wrecks as 2WD folk spun into ditches and sailed into front yards. The GCL with new mixed tread tires was great on ice. Got to the hospital but it stalled in the parking lot but a minute later stayed going and got home. Gotta get this bug fixed so I can count on it because the traction of full time 4WD is unbeatable. Just hope I don't have to swap out stuff until its all new under the hood! Sorry I can't help!!!
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    And This was my next chapter below before today when i had another event 60 miles from home, came out of a restaurant after lunch, opened door with remote ok, and gauges maxed out, jeep no crank, no interior light, seems like no juice, remote no loner working, reseated computer plugs, no help, called auto club, they tested batterey which was 30 months old on a 36 month battery, battery had 11 volts and 0 cold cranking amps, put new battery in, problem solved, still don't know if problem last month was battery starting to be bad or a different problem.
    This below is prior report.
    Just reporting in on what fixed my problem i am replying to. After reading on different forums i gave this a try: I pulled the battery relay from the under hood fuse box(this is basically the same as disconnecting battery), then i disconnected all three computer plugs located on firewall behind coolant add bottle, and reconnected them. This is enough to clean any minor corrosion off pins of connectors which may perhaps cause a weak or intermittent signal from sensors to computer. So far 3 weeks later there has been no more issues.
  • ashysaysashysays Member Posts: 1
    97 Jeep grand cherokee V8 will not idle.

    this is my second time having this problem. My car will turn on but will not start unless i push the gas at the same time. The car is driveable, but i have to double foot it. The second i let my foot off the gas, the car dies. I had this problem back in September and i put in a new IAC and that seemed to fix the problem. However, this time a new IAC did not fix it. check engine light does come on.

    also, in february i had a mechanic also install a new IAC.

    anyone have any ideas as to why this keeps happening?
  • ruth1234ruth1234 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Jeep grad cherokee larado, It starts out driving fine for about a mile the it looses powe and won't go over 25 miles, we did a tune up changed the fuel pump and put a new computer in, At first it was stalling before we did that after we put the computer in it drove fine for about a week and then started goin to 25 miles, PLEASE HELP can't afford a new car. Thanks
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have a plugged cat
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    This perhaps is not the same as my problem but in previous experience, a
    load of bad gas in Rossevelt WY once clogged my fuel filter so much that
    it allowed only enough gas to pass through to get me to the next town (about
    100 miles @ 40 mph on level and 5 mph up hills). 3 bottles of alcohol and a
    new filter did the trick that time. Another time, I bought a used 95
    Cherokee Sport and it stumbled and died after a 275 mile trip. I changed
    the fuel filter and stayed the night. The next morning I made it back home
    and found that the previous owner had been slimed with something in the
    tank. It was sludge that eventually moved to clog the fuel intake (fuel
    pump is in the tank in '95). Steam cleaned the tank twice before it was
    cleaned out. Prob. solved. Right now my engine light says throttle control
    sensor voltage too high. It's brand new. New crank sensor was a waste of
    money for this problem. I've asked the mech to clean the ECU terminals and
    think about the problem. No solution yet. 2-3 miles from home after an
    overnight and it stalls while moving @40mph or so. Restarts and runs rough
    after another 5 minutes of restart attempts. Then it will idle and surge in
    pulsations. But, it will get to the mech. 136K miles, 95 GC V8
    Good luck,
    WillyT
  • rob1231rob1231 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 4X4 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.I have been experiencing problems getting it to start up.It will crank but wont start.I have replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor 3 days ago along with the spark plugs.The Crank Sensor 4 months ago along with Fuel Pump, Coil Pack. This vehicle originally had 138k miles on it until i put in another engine from a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that has 67k miles on it.Last month.On the new engine i put on the new cam,crank shaft,coil pack.

    Sometimes this will start up.Diagnostics came back reading multiple po305,po003 misfire detected,Lost Communication Link which is why i replaced the spark plugs.When i turn the key the check engine light appears,then disappears only for the check gauges light to come on,still no start.The battery gauge shows the battery is half full,the oil gauge moves up slightly toward the middle or around 40.

    Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
  • davidcanadadavidcanada Member Posts: 2
    Hi;

    Replaced Map Sensor ; exact same problem on ours - 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee...
    Runs perfect now. Mileage is even better too.
    D
  • davidcanadadavidcanada Member Posts: 2
    try replacing Map Sensor. Ours had same issue.

    Problem is ; it heats up @ light / stopped for a few minutes... but on the road works correct - cause cooler.

    Other possible cause - throttle position sensor and/or IAC - Idle Control .
    But a Map sensor can cause all of above.

    Almost lost my mind locating it on ours [95 Jeep Grand C]... it was Map.

    On other Jeep [99 Cherokee]; same kind of problem - idle issues only - was the Idle Control.
    D
  • willyt1willyt1 Member Posts: 8
    So now that the MAP sensor was the real culprit, I am faced with an old friend who got $550. from me while finding the problem at the last. When I asked him why he charged 169.00 (his cost) for the MAP sensor on my '95 GC he said the $60 quote I got on the Internet was wrong and it really cost him $169.00. The three other sensors he swapped out looking for the problem were of similar price. What to do about the obvious overcharging? What price friendship? I got the real answer here on the Internet, the MAP sensor for about $60-70 dollars. I ended up paying the mech. $550. It's hard to take the screwing. Cut my losses and simply say goodbye or go to small claims court? What's my damage? Feelings that I got a screwing from a friend. Another experience to put into a box and move on? I tend to think so but there is this feeling of treachery that bugs me. Get over it?
    WillyT
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    He's either cheating your or cannot competently shop for replacement parts. Both are good reasons to stay away in the future.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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