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I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 4.7L V8 engine. Like many JGC owners, I had had many problems along the way.
Last week the car began acting out during start-up and would die immediately after a start (after trying several times) and would die in idle if the gas pedal was not pushed down to supply extra gas. The lights would dim, the car would make a big hesitation as if dying out with a faint crank. After turning the key several times to start the car up, it would start and would die immediately in idle if extra gas is not supplied in high rpm idle by pushing the gas pedal...
The lights in the car would otherwise work fine, the gauges, the power seats etc would function... The voltage gauge would show 13-14 volts on the dashboard analog gauge once it went through a successful start-up by supplying extra gas for 30-60 seconds.
This went on for about a week until I replaced the battery yesterday and all the problems were solved... My battery was an AC Delco battery with a 7-year warranty and had just completed 4 years of use this month.
I was thinking either a malfunctioning TPS, an IAC valve or a crankshaft sensor, but wanted to take the battery question out of the way first...
Reading this post last night gave me this idea... I appreciate all the help... and wanted to give a feedback...
Did you by any chance have the battery tested before replacing it?
Oh my, what along dark road! At this point, I dont even know were to start! Well I guess the car would be a good start. I have a 1996 jeep grand cherokee leraido. In the beginning my car would die on the high way sometimes not start, stall at the stop signs, lights,etc.. If I waited a few hours it would start up no problem and run fine, even sometimes it would start up after 20 mins. I changed, the crank and the cam position sensor if fact an entire new distributor, and the cap, rotor, plugs, wire, coil, Idle air, m.a.p. sensor, and what ever that third sensor on the throttle body was, I changed that too!, I cleaned the throttle body and the intake, put new fuel filter/pump, and injectors. At that point the only this left to change was the pcm, so what did I do? Yup you guessed it, I changed that too! At this point I found out there are a couple of recall's, had that done by the dealership, and when they were done with that, I asked them to find out what was wrong with the car, after 2 weeks of having the car, still no luck they could not tell me what was wrong with me car, oh but dont worry they still figured out a way to charge me! so after i towed my car out of the dealer ship and paid the 125 doller diognostic fee ugh!!!! My car still did not start at that point. I brought it to my mothers mecahnic, they had the car for 4 weeks, I just got the call that the car is running just fine. The car is fixed!!!! I dont know how much I owe scarry thought! but I do know what was wrong with the car. You ready? I tryed to keep you in suspence, did it work? Well any-ways. My car had a 1997 transmission in it becuase @ 125000 miles it needed a new one. Now @ 211000, miles I find this out. well when I address the origanal issue and the very first the I replaced. The crank sensor, well I got a "96" one in and not a 97, thus cuasing all these probelms! Are you picking up what I am putting down. Althought the model for a 96 fit, it was not conducive. It did not work! Moral of this stroy is, when ever you do work on your car, dont asume becuase the make model and year of the car is one thing, that the tranny or the engine transfer case or anything eles is the same, expeshally when it's and older car! This car had alot of work done to it! i am going to keep it! and when I buy a new car, it will be a luxry one! I think i will try and hit 300,000miles with this strait six! what do you thing will it make it? cheers and good luck, i got some body work to do now!
I just took it for another test drive, and it stalled again about 4 miles up the road, however, instead of immediately pulling over, I decided to put my foot in the pedal, and the engine fired right back up and I went on driving.
Before when it stalled out, I just pulled right over in fear that if I did anything else I could possibly damage something, but this time I just gave her some gas, and like a light switch it fired right back up.
I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin. Replaced fuel filter/Dist cap & rotor/Plugs & wires... etc
Throttle position sensor? Crank position sensor? MAP sensor?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Then my battery started to have problems on Saturday. Slow cranking, then would turn over. Got worse and worse over Sunday and Monday. Went back to Walmart, who diagnosed a bad cell in the battery, and replaced it no charge (I purchased it there, about 1 yr ago).
You might want to have the battery and cables checked.
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
GOT NO CODES.....
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling.
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts NOT POSITIVE ON THE PARTS PRICES
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
SWAPPED OUT THE ECU AND
THIS SEEMS TO HAVE SOLVED IT........ IF I WERE YOU I WOULD START WITH THE ECU
alan
Below is the post i am replying to.
"I had the EXACT same problem yesterday. My issue began after the vehicle was running. I heard a loud pop from the radio speakers and observed the voltage gauge floating while driving. After I got home and turned the Jeep off, it would not crank. No interior or brake lights, nothing at all that indicated I even had a battery connected. All of my gauges were pulsing and flipping over wildly with or without the key in the ignition and I could hear a faint clicking noise timed perfectly with the pulsing of the gauges. I let it sit for about an hour and it finally looked normal on the dash and sure enough - it turned over fine and all my gauges are back to normal. Even the pre-sets on the radio are still there. The only noticeable difference is that my clock on the radio is wrong.
Did you ever find out the problem?
Has anyone else encountered this problem and if so - what's my next step in troubleshooting this issue?"
Bill
if you are not getting anu codes ..... that malkes me think ECU
1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
2)
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD
start-up, as it heated, it would become intermittant then work again once
past a certain temp. After several days it began to stay internittant and
could be more easily located. No engine service light would come on. The
shop also found the throttle sensor was failing and a sensor having to do
with water temp was bad. The engine runs now and feels normal in every way
so it was at least one of those or all of those sensors that appears to be
have been the problem. $390. and several shop hours. This rig came from
Salt Lake City and there is corrosion on the engine aluminum parts. I
bought some electrical contact cleaner and will carefully be separating the
connections and reconnecting them per the advice I've read here. I've seen
some signs of oxidation and the door speaker is going "intermittant" also.
135,000 miles. Thanks all!
WillyT
i have a 1994 JGC limited with a 4.0 6cyl. my wife was driving down the road when it all of a sudden just stalled and died. it would start back up then run for a couple of min and die again. when i got to here about 30 min later it ran for about 7 miles and died again. it acts like the fuel just shuts off. i changed the relay for the auto shut off still dies. no check engine light no nothing just dies. if any one can help i would be willing to try any thing.
If you read my problem/solution for my 95 GCL V8 (135K miles) it was the crankshaft sensor which caused my rig to act exactly like the symptoms you describe. It was very sporadic at first then deteriorated quickly and eventually making it "easy" to find. In the course of fixing that problem the mech found 2 other sensors going bad and replaced them too, the throttle control and water temp sensors. Runs great again. I had no engine light come on either. Hope it helps.
Bill
This problem began after I pressed the reset button on the "Overhead Console" . That was as a result of being unable to use the keyless remote transmitter to open the vehicle. The key was used to open the door but attempt to start the vehicle failed for it turned out the battery was dead. A new battery since be placed and the keyless remote works but the vehicle refuses to start and idle unless the accelerator pedal is hold down.
Could you advise on what to do to solve that problem please.
Thought my mech had it licked but the '95GCL parked along side the road stalling at 40 mph on the way to the hospital. Nice. Restarted 5 or 6 times goosing the gas and it finally stayed running and resumed my trip with it choking and puking along the way. Got another appointment. Check engine light came on this time. This morning I had to make the same trip on a sheet of ice as the 2WD honda would not have made it. Passed 6-8 wrecks as 2WD folk spun into ditches and sailed into front yards. The GCL with new mixed tread tires was great on ice. Got to the hospital but it stalled in the parking lot but a minute later stayed going and got home. Gotta get this bug fixed so I can count on it because the traction of full time 4WD is unbeatable. Just hope I don't have to swap out stuff until its all new under the hood! Sorry I can't help!!!
This below is prior report.
Just reporting in on what fixed my problem i am replying to. After reading on different forums i gave this a try: I pulled the battery relay from the under hood fuse box(this is basically the same as disconnecting battery), then i disconnected all three computer plugs located on firewall behind coolant add bottle, and reconnected them. This is enough to clean any minor corrosion off pins of connectors which may perhaps cause a weak or intermittent signal from sensors to computer. So far 3 weeks later there has been no more issues.
this is my second time having this problem. My car will turn on but will not start unless i push the gas at the same time. The car is driveable, but i have to double foot it. The second i let my foot off the gas, the car dies. I had this problem back in September and i put in a new IAC and that seemed to fix the problem. However, this time a new IAC did not fix it. check engine light does come on.
also, in february i had a mechanic also install a new IAC.
anyone have any ideas as to why this keeps happening?
load of bad gas in Rossevelt WY once clogged my fuel filter so much that
it allowed only enough gas to pass through to get me to the next town (about
100 miles @ 40 mph on level and 5 mph up hills). 3 bottles of alcohol and a
new filter did the trick that time. Another time, I bought a used 95
Cherokee Sport and it stumbled and died after a 275 mile trip. I changed
the fuel filter and stayed the night. The next morning I made it back home
and found that the previous owner had been slimed with something in the
tank. It was sludge that eventually moved to clog the fuel intake (fuel
pump is in the tank in '95). Steam cleaned the tank twice before it was
cleaned out. Prob. solved. Right now my engine light says throttle control
sensor voltage too high. It's brand new. New crank sensor was a waste of
money for this problem. I've asked the mech to clean the ECU terminals and
think about the problem. No solution yet. 2-3 miles from home after an
overnight and it stalls while moving @40mph or so. Restarts and runs rough
after another 5 minutes of restart attempts. Then it will idle and surge in
pulsations. But, it will get to the mech. 136K miles, 95 GC V8
Good luck,
WillyT
Sometimes this will start up.Diagnostics came back reading multiple po305,po003 misfire detected,Lost Communication Link which is why i replaced the spark plugs.When i turn the key the check engine light appears,then disappears only for the check gauges light to come on,still no start.The battery gauge shows the battery is half full,the oil gauge moves up slightly toward the middle or around 40.
Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Replaced Map Sensor ; exact same problem on ours - 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee...
Runs perfect now. Mileage is even better too.
D
Problem is ; it heats up @ light / stopped for a few minutes... but on the road works correct - cause cooler.
Other possible cause - throttle position sensor and/or IAC - Idle Control .
But a Map sensor can cause all of above.
Almost lost my mind locating it on ours [95 Jeep Grand C]... it was Map.
On other Jeep [99 Cherokee]; same kind of problem - idle issues only - was the Idle Control.
D
WillyT
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