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Thanks!
BTY Jeep Chrysler Customer Assistance Center took 5 days to reply and call to re-advise me to take it to the STEALERSHIP for their diagnostics.Too late;problem fixed.
They are really poor on customer CIRCUS. I'll be back If the prob. comes back.
I don't know why the web address split-up but, type out the whole thing
Look for both Hankster1 and Brigada starting around posting #70
Start with the free stuff...remove the Idle (Air) Control Motor and clean with carb cleaner or replace it if you wish.
Disconnect the battery and then remove the connections to the Engine Control Module. Apply dielectric grease to the connector and to the pins and reassemble.
If these have no effect check the coil. Primary resistance (between terminals A & should be around 0.95 to 1.20 ohms. Secondary resistance (between terminals A & secondary terminal) should be around 11.3 to 13.3 k-ohms
The manifold gasket should have little effect unless it is so bad causing the O2 sensors to send bad info to the ECM.
Let us know...
After you grease (dielectric grease) the connectors for the PCM check these three sensors:
Throttle Position Sensor - check voltage across the (+) wire (Purple/white) and the (-) wire (black/blue). Voltage should be 5.0 volts. Next check signal voltage across the (+) wire (orange/blue) and ground. It should be 0.5 volts. Move the throttle to a fully open position and voltage should increase to 4.5 - 5.0 volts. Replace if necessary.
Crankshaft Position Sensor -check ohms across terminals B & C on the crankshaft position sensor (B is the center terminal and C is to its right when the connector locking tab is on the top). Resistance is infinite. Replace if resistance is low.
MAP Sensor - check vacuum hose for deterioration...check electrical connector for a good fit and the wires for deterioration, looseness and breaks. With the ignition on (engine not running) check the voltage on the positive (+) wire(purple/white) to ground (-). It should read between 3.5 - 5.5 volts. Turn key off and connect the connector up to the sensor. Turn key on (engine not running) then check voltage on the signal wire (red/white)(+)to ground (-). It should be 1.5 - 3.0 volts. Replace if necessary.
Let us know...If this doesn't reveal a problem...We can try the camshaft position sensor next.
I go to start the vehicle and the engine begins to start but then starts sputtering and stumbling like its running out of gas or not engaging completely. It feels like the engine is half started. None of my lights are on. I have taken back to the garage and they cant find a problem and of course it doesnt do it while they have it. They checked it on the computer and no codes are active.
It happens both when its cold and when its hot. Any suggestions???
Start with the free stuff first. I would remove the Idle Air Control Motor and clean with some carburetor cleaner and then re-install.
In the last 3 weeks my jeep has been at the dealership 3 times.
They have replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, 02 sensors, pcm, and an ignition coil(3rd one) and said they fixed my bad coolant sensor. I picked it up on Thursday and the bad coolant sensor popped on within 2 miles from dealership. My jeep is stumbling and stalling when I am going low speed or at a stop. Today it cut off on me while going over railroad tracks. Since so much has been replaced, is it possible that the bad coolant sensor is causing all of my problems? Today while being in line at the drive thru at my bank, the bad coolant sensor popped on and within seconds my jeep cut off.
Any ideas will be greatley appeciated.
mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studeer or misfire.... and it always started right back
got mine fixed with the very last option #3, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from
ebay
they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the (pcu or ecu). worked like a charm.......
grand cherokee stalls or dies out.
1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.
3) FOR 1999 AND LATER
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... several months ... SO FAR SO GOOD
good luck
alan
Try this website www.justanswer.com and go the the auto machanic part
It will cost you a few dollars (minimal) to get an answer, but you will be communicating with a live Jeep mechanic over the internet. It helps to have some auto repair knowledge. There are some negative reviews, but it worked for me.
Good Luck
And it's free.
Tell Karjunkie I sent you. Or 0Patience. Or Zaken1, Morin2, Knowledgepower, Texases or DocJ. Or Shifty or a few dozen other great techs hanging out there.
There's over 500 questions answered there just on the Jeep Grand Cherokee. (link)
http://fortlauderdale.citysearch.com/profile/2448438/davie_fl/auto_computer_exch- ange_inc.html.
Can anyone help me with a reliable coy that could solve this problem for me please?
Thank you
GOOD LUCK. EDMUNDS WILL NOT LET ME SAY THE NAME
ALAN
It is a 30 minute, $2.49 fix. Well worth a try.
I'm not getting any error codes or a check engine light.
Has anyone else had this issue?
good luck
alan
Who had the same problem and know what to do.
Thanks in advance.
my '97 jeep cherokee is having some running problems. it started when i couldnt get it to start and/or run from a parking lot without keeping my foot on the gas.. i checked the fuel injectors and the coil, both were working fine, so i replaced the sparkplugs. that didnt work. then i replaced the air idle sensor, throttle sensor, and wires because it would not keep idle and reved on its own. it seemed to run fine, no more stalling when i went to accellerate, but i replaced the rotor cap and button anway. i thought i fixed the problem, but now when i let the rpms abruptly stop (stomping on the excelerator quickly and letting it go) it dies when the rpm gauge goes down. im at my wits end, please help!
very easy to replace on my 2000 gc 4.7 v8....
good luck
alan
donna maler
No check engine lights. Any idea what the cause could be?
donna maler
I replaced the Battery and still the same ?
Starter Motor checked but could not find any problem.
In addition to this some times after starting A/C ,Signal Lights , does not work and
some times after few minutes it starts working. At this time dash board ABS ,and
Air bag lights does not get switched off .
can any one give the reason and what is defective.
Jagath Ranawaka Sri lanka
I have same issue, and I see you posted changing the fuel pump. My buddy suggests this is what I should do...My car stalled like your story, etc and after reading these posts, it's so hard to figure out where to start. Your last post I saw stated "2nd day after fuel pump change and running good"...How has the car since the fuel pump change??? I have a 2000 Jeep..Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Take care.
i probably replaced a few good sensors but they were reaching their replacment time anyway.....
mine was not that bad. but it shut off like the key was turned off.... no studder or misfire.... and no codes . but it always started right back
got mine fixed with the very last option #2 below, I HAD TO REPLACETHE BRAIN (ECU) Got mine off ebay for $185 from on line auction
they will program, and ship for that price..... it has a lifetime warranty. It has to be programed for your vin #, part nbr, and mileage.... but they will tell you all that. It took about 35 minutes to swap the part. worked like a charm.......
grand cherokee stalls or dies out.
option #1
1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
option #3
2) FOR 1999 AND LATER
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN 3 months.... SO FAR SO GOOD
good luck
alan
I have a CarMD check engine code reader for my jeep but it always passes with a green light even though the check gauges and check engine lights are both on and the sentry key light is on as well.
While I run the car, before it stalls out, the CarMD reader shows a yellow light but no codes. I've replaced the CPS, fuel filter/control unit, thermostat, fuel injector, put a new AirAid air intake, new spark plugs but still this problem persists. One thing i will say is that the sentry key logo tends to stay on after it stalls but thats just strange. Again, my diagnostic kit, CarMD, doesn't read any codes (Green light with 0 problems) after the stall. I'm at my wits end, I might try to replace the PCM before taking it to the dealership. Any Ideas as to the problem would be greatly appreciated. Why no codes eh?