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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • b_lindzyb_lindzy Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I'm having a hell of a time with my 2001 JGC. It stalled on me two weeks ago and has not been able to run for more then a min or so since then. I can get it to start and idle for a bit but if I rev it up it will spit and sputter then die. I am gettin multiple random miss fire codes, codes on the cam and crank sensors and also on #1 and #3 coils. I replaced both sensors with no luck, got a coil pack and before istalling it I checked it against my old one with my multi meter and it checked out extactly the same. I replaced it anyway, also with no luck! I checked fuel PSI at the fuel rail ad it was great at 45 psi. figuring that it must be the PCM I orderd one, already flashed (plug and play). Installed it today and nothing!!! Still wont do anything but idle for a while. Anyone have any ideas that I have not thought of? Only thing I can think of is maybe I got a bad cam sensor from the parts store. Thanks for any help.
  • cgillilan7043cgillilan7043 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to email you as this reply won't help any other reader. Did you find out what was causing your issue? I'm having identical symptoms to you.
  • johnnie01johnnie01 Member Posts: 1
    Hey

    My jeep grand cherokee laredo is doing the exact same thing. I had it tuned up, ingintion core put in it and I just put a brand new map sensor in it and not even a week later it did it again. i will try and replace the other 2 sensor but since you wrote this has you had and problems out of it and how long ago did you replace all 3 sensor? Please get incontact with me and let me know because I hate to be paying for something that it might not need like the ingintion core that I had put on it which was probably not need. Please contact me am a single mother and money is tight and this is my only ride to work so you know that if its not working right am in trouble.

    Thanks for your time am on facebook you can locate me there. :sick:
  • carlos8081carlos8081 Member Posts: 1
    Ok so a mechanic told me that for $600 he could change out my radiator fan motor and fan relay. I told him to go blank him self. So I didn't have any money to fix it and I let the jeep be. 8 months later I come to find out my wife didn't move or even turn on the jeep like we had agreed and now it wouldn't start. I had recently replaced the fuel pump and filter so that's not the problem. My jeep will start only of I throw gas in the throttle body and will only run if I keep it reved up to 2000 rpm not only that my manifold on the exauhst is turning cherry red at some points. Can anyone plz help me I'm at a stand still and I'm tired of walking
  • nfsouthworthnfsouthworth Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo. I can drive it down the road for little bit and it will die on me. I have put a new ignition switch in and a new ICV, but it will still stop running. It if as if it has no gas, but it does have gas. It will turn over just not fire up. It has a new battery as well. It runs good when it will stay running I love the truck, but just can't keep it running.
  • duffy2514duffy2514 Member Posts: 10
    i have a 93 jeep grand cherokee with the 5.2 v-8 . has the same issues. my problem is the ignition coil. go to your local part's store and pick up a spark detector. on mine when the coil start's to fail it will knock off and will start with the spark detecter in place then after a few time's of doing this the ignition coil will fail permantly. i purchased two ignition coils with the lifetime warranty. when the one on the vehicle fail's completely i just change the coil with the spare then take the bad one back for a free replacement. it's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] but it's the only issue i have. i have been through bout 5 coils in a year. still cant figure out why they fail. doe's not give problem code's. good luck and the spark detecter is only bout ten buck's but worth every penny. just like a spare tire i keep the coil and a 10 mm wrench and the spark tool. take's about ten minutes to change. REMEMBER THIS, A YELLOW SPARK IS THE SAME AS NO SPARK. it must be blue.
  • hashballhashball Member Posts: 2
    mine was having the EXACT same problem. I replaced the fuel filter, MAP Sensor, Crank Sensor, Spark Plugs, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Converter...it turned out the problem was a bad fuel injector. Fuel injector on cylinder 3 was sticking. My friend is a mechanic and he replaced the fuel injector for me. It's been running spectacularly since.

    Take it to AutoZone to have them pull your engine codes and see if you are getting a cylinder misfire code. If so, it's going to be your fuel injector giving you the problem. Good luck!
  • hashballhashball Member Posts: 2
    This reply was for an earlier discussion but it applies to your problem as well.
    Mine was having the EXACT same problem (1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0). I replaced the fuel filter, MAP Sensor, Crank Sensor, Spark Plugs, O2 Sensors, Catalytic Converter...it turned out the problem was a bad fuel injector. Fuel injector on cylinder 3 was sticking. My friend is a mechanic and he replaced the fuel injector for me. It's been running spectacularly since.

    Take it to AutoZone to have them pull your engine codes and see if you are getting a cylinder misfire code. If so, it's going to be your fuel injector giving you the problem. Good luck!
  • shakennot1shakennot1 Member Posts: 1
    i'm having this same problem and the mechanic can find no errors on the "computer". mine starts everytime but just loses power without warning. seems like it always early in the morning or early in a trip. after driving out on the highway for a few miles, with the jeep warmed up, it won't do it. it won't do it for the mechanic either!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    From Edmunds Answers (scroll down to the bottom):

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo stalling problem

    Apparently some web site is selling this information on the net and YouTube for $20, when the spacer fix has been around for a while on the net for free.
  • jeepjamiejeepjamie Member Posts: 1
    figure it out yet? I am having the SAME problem. my mechanic replaced the starter a while ago because the pin was sticking. still wouldnt crank right up. then it started dying on me while driving and the crank problem persisted. he checked the fuel pump - psi 20 - replaced it 2 days ago. still having crank problems and died on me while driving down the road twice today
  • kramer842kramer842 Member Posts: 5
    Which eBay reseller did you buy your PCM from? I've read mixed reviews on the rebuilt PCMs from eBay resellers. There's two with lifetime warranties. All Computer Resources and Auto Computer Exchange. The latter gets crap reviews but there's really nothing on ACR. How's the car running now?

    Thanks!
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    sorry do not remember. The car ran great as soon as i plugged in the rebuilt one..... what an easy install too.... supposedly there are no new ones.... only rebuilt.
    alby
  • kramer842kramer842 Member Posts: 5
    good to hear the rebuilt off ebay is working well for you. turns out even mopar isn't making new pcms. only remans and charging $682! And NOT programmed. 3rd party resellers like on ebay are charging $200 fully programmed. just need to find one you can trust. if you recall who you got yours from, please post. thanks!
  • jeepercreeeperjeepercreeeper Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    Hey everyone, had all these stalling, intermittently, and bad idling just like all you all. I am so broke I can't pay attention but anyway here was my fix. Two hex screws hold the PCM module under the harnesses, and these according to a airplane mechanic who was an angel of a man to troubleshoot this and let me know. These screws are too long and cause some kind of short. I put spacers on screws($0.10) to make them about half as long and stalling stopped this was around two months ago. I also had an tension pulley replaced cause the belt was jumping and causing a stall. It looks great and a cheap fix. Try the spacers first, please do not spend all those big bucks I have been reading...Thanks for your time....E...
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 GC Laredo 4.0....this past Monday night, my daughter was driving it and it cut off at a stop light. When she went to try to restart it, all the gauges went haywire, the gas gauge went from 1/8 to below empty, the volt meter went below 9 and it never re-fired. It was towed to a mechanic friend's business. At first I thought it was the fuel pump as I could not hear it running as I turned the key on, but the mechanics could not get any readings from a diagnostics computer, so we assumed it was the ECM/PCM. I have just changed the computer and it still will not start. I've cleaned battery terminals, checked fuses....no luck. The fuel gauge still indicates below empty, and I have put roughly 6 gallons in the tank, so it should be registering more the 1/4 of a tank. Battery volts still read 9v, and the key in the circle indicator on the dash is illuminated( there was not an owners manual in the vehicle when we purchased it). I have seen all the discussions on GC problems....any ideas????
  • scottj1scottj1 Member Posts: 9
    These vehicles are insanely sensitive to engine and chassis grounds. Two jumper cables (from ground battery to engine, from ground batter to frame) will give you an idea if it is that. The problems sound EXACTLY like the PCM died. The gauges going fritz is like a huge flag. From a distance and based on my own experience, I would still say it is the PCM. Was the new one programmed for your vehicle? The connectors (I remember three on mine) have to be TOTALLY cleaned and spotless when they get plugged back into the new PCM. Any grungy old silicone grease will kill the deal. they need to be totally spotless and new grease used to keep out any corrosion. I wish you the best. After the 2nd PCM in 50,000 I traded for a Kia. I don't like it at all but it never stops, it won't quit. Good luck.
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    Hey Scotti...thanks, I will check the grounds tomorrow. Yes, the new PCM was programmed for my vehicle. It is so weird, it turns over, but no fire. The mechanics yesterday told me they had sprayed started fluid in the tbi, but it never fired up. This has me baffled as I can diagnose a lot and have some good mechanic friends that help also, but this is just weird. I will get some contact cleaner and spray the 3 pcm plugs and see if that helps also. I had a battery charger on the battery for the last 3 hours and it never came off of 9amps on the charge meter......that has me puzzled too....I tried to jump the car with another car and the volt meter in the car never got above indicating 9volts.....
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    well i am currently 2 and 1/2 weeks into the same guage problem.... a year an 1/2 ago i had a stalling probem (but no guage problem) when i came to a stop..... changed a few sensors cleaned trottle body...and no luck. so i replaced the computer and that worked perfectly. then about a year later i started having guage problems when the outside temp was below say 50 degrees. skim light came on first, and sometimes it would just die. put it in park and it would start right back up. some times it stalled once or twice, rarely three times (skim always came on before) then it would run and be ok except for the guages, they would work at random..... Now the skim light still came on (along with every other light) but the car would run fine. the guages would bounce on and off until the outside temp rose to 60 plus or minus .... drove it this way all winter last year . this year i decided to get it fixed (figured $1000 to $1500) as a wishful estimate.
    the dealer (have to go to a dealer for this) took it and put his best electric guy on it. he tracked to the instument cluster ($800), replaced it and a sensor (total $1250). i picke it up, drove it 2 mile skim light came on, it died and the guages did the same thing. took it back that next morning, (1 1/2 weeks ago), they have been tracking it (when the temp is below 50) and they tried replacing the skim unit.... still no luck. when they did that then they ran a scan on the computer and the computer said it was a diesel truck (not a 2000 grand cherokee) and the computer was now he problem. they ordered that part ($800) and it is on the way and that is where we are right now..... I told them up front i do not want to get into this for over $1500. the service rep says he knows and they will work with me.... If they do, then they will have my business for sure, (i have never used a dealer in the past) but i have not got that far yet... i am calling today because i really need my car back.. will try to keep you posted.....
    alan
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Alan for the info.....I'm getting ready to go out and work on this thing now. Your info is helpful and where to do some checking. I'll update as I go along....

    Tim
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    Well, I have taken the both battery terminals loose and cleaned them, the battery stayed disconnected for more than 30 minutes, sprayed contact cleaner on all 3 plugs going to the new pcm, cleaned the ground for the wiring harness and still this thing will not start! I even put the old pcm back in just to check all the lights and gauges on the dash and I still have the 'skim' illuminated, volt, fuel, water temp and oil pressure gauges are inop, this dash indication is the same for both pcm's (old or new) . I used a handheld ODBII diagnostic checker with both pcm's installed and it displayed 'no link' both times. I'm at a loss..... :confuse: :cry: :mad:
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    Here's the update on fixing the jeep....on Friday, I talked to the service manager for the local Chrysler dealership and told him everything that I had done and all the problems that I was having. He told me to unplug every 3 wire sensor on the engine....cam position, crank position, throttle position, etc. When I had unplugged the shorted sensor, I would hear the fuel pump relay energize. I first unplugged the cam position sensor, nothing....then I traced the wire bundle back into the engine compartment and unplugged a connector that led around the engine and voila! I heard the fuel pump relay energize....as it turned out, the problem was the crankshaft position sensor. I got it changed out today and my wife and daughter are very happy to have the car running again. This sensor, though, was a bear to change out. most of the work was done from underneath and very tight space to do it in. BUT......it is done!
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    buy yourself a new tool...............
    alan
  • kristinagkristinag Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Jeep GC Laredo (v6, 4x4). Recently it has been having trouble starting. When I turn the key it will take a while to catch, and when I can hear it beginning to engage I have to immediately give it a little gas in order to get it to catch. Once the car starts I have to keep my foot on the gas to hold the car at around 1000 rpms, otherwise it will stall out. I have to hold my foot on the gas like that for about 5 mins- basically until the engine warms up. Then it will be able to idle around 500/750 rpms and not stall.

    Is there any way this could be as easy as just changing the spark plugs??

    I will add that the car needs several parts (catalytic converter, muffler) of the exhaust replaced (exhaust is leaking). I didn't think that could be related but I don't know a whole lot about cars..
  • ucheuche Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2004 grand cherokee which refuses to start. Dashboard shows key cancellation symbol. Fuel guage is also refusing to rise. had this problem after servicing gear box.
    What should i do.
  • dealprodealpro Member Posts: 1
    Hello all...

    This is my first trip in here and do hope that you will be able to help me out...

    I have a 99 GC Laredo V8 4x4 that just started having issues today.

    It WILL start right up, idle very low, then shut off every time. When I turn the ignition key everything lights up and I can hear the fuel pump run. When it starts, I can give it gas and it will rev up and then proceed to die once it runs out of fuel. I then turn off the key, turn it back on and the same thing all over again. I do not want to point anyone in the wrong direction however it just seems that once it runs out of fuel pressure it dies. I am by myself and cannot get under the jeep to listen to see if the fuel pump continues to run while it is at such a low idle... Any ideas???
  • rebekartrebekart Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 JGC, 4 cyl. It has about 140,000 miles on it. While driving last night the engine cut out while driving then started up again- felt a hard shake from the engine. It did it a few times until it completely lost power. I pulled over the the side of the road at one point and tried to start it. I heard a rapid clicking noise and then the car went totally out. Has this happened to anyone else? Or can someone tell me what they think might be the problem?

    Thanks,

    Rebekah
  • ucheuche Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2004 grand cherokee which refuses to start. Dashboard shows key cancellation symbol. Fuel guage is also refusing to rise. had this problem after servicing gear box.
    What should i do.
  • ronnavronnav Member Posts: 1
    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee: intermittent no crank/turn over/start when turning key, but all electrical is okay. I do have an after-market remote starter/alarm system. Not sure if this is a contributing factor or not. Car will subsequently start on the 2nd or 3rd try when I do experience the no-start on the 1st try. Probably happens every couple of days. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  • duffy2514duffy2514 Member Posts: 10
    Hi, sorry to hear you are having issue's. these jeep's are great but have been known to have electrical issue's. I had the same problem with mine. Now i alway's turn the key just far enough to turn on all the electronic's and listen for the fuel pump to run and stop then it crank's on the third revolution of the engine every time. the fuel will ease back to the point where there's no fuel or not enough to have the pressure it need's to start and if you let the fuel pump build the fuel pressure back up that may fix it. try it and see if that's the issue.
  • au80au80 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2000 GC Laredo - first started showing key symbol then gauges going haywire - runs just fine. Found loose positive battery connection which seemed to resolve the gauge issue but key light remained on intermittently. On for a few seconds -off a few seconds. Dealer did not seem to have a clue - no codes found - at least they did not charge me.

    Today I tried disconnecting the battery completely and let sit for about an hour - hopefully to let computer reset. So far no key light and everthing works - crossing my fingers!!!
  • macrealtor75macrealtor75 Member Posts: 2
    I do have the same problem on my 2004 gcl, it wont start and gauges dont raise, the cancelation key code comes up, according to owners manual this is an electric problem but I still trying to find it, does anyone have a solution for it? what can I do?
  • macrealtor75macrealtor75 Member Posts: 2
    HELLO THERE., HAVE U FOUND THE PROBLEM YET? ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN SHARE WITH US??, MY 2004 GCL HAS THE SAME PROBLEM AND DOES NOT START AT ALL :(
  • jeepstalljeepstall Member Posts: 1
    are they the 2 screws that hold the mounting bracket on to the fire wall? on the right side and under the PCM its self?
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    what I did on my 2000 4.0 gcl, was to start unpluging all the 3 wire sensors on the engine (crankshaft position, camshaft position, map sensor, etc.). If any one of these sensors has shorted out, it will kill all the gauges. As I have found out since working on mine, the most likely culprit is the crankshaft position sensor. As soon as you unplug the bad sensor, the gauges will come back to life and more than likely you will hear the fuel pump relay in the fuse box in the engine compartment energize. I learned that a bad sensor will not kill the gauges, only a shorted out sensor.
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    edited December 2011
    i have a 2000 gc v8 4x4
    well the dealer seems to have fixed my guages going on and off. skim light coming on and car dying.... always started back up but when the temp outside went below 50 degrees the skim light would come on and the guages would start and stop working. they ended up replacing the instument cluster, the pcm, the crankshaft position sensor and maybe the skim module as well..... when they put it back together they left the skim module disconnected, their idea and i was all for it...... $1600 but they seemed to get it right
  • 8isenough8isenough Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I've scoured the boards but never found a solution to this, so here goes:

    I have a formerly well behaved '95 JGC Orvis, 5.2L (remember when we called one of these a "318"?), 165k miles, which, rightly or wrongly, I love. :shades:

    It has developed problems, which may or may not be related.

    First, It has the relays clicking (repeated clicks, from the ASD and starter relays) before the CEL comes on, then requires multiple tries before it will actually start, but when it finally starts, it runs fine. If it stays warm, it starts more easily for the rest of the day, if it cools all the way down, it goes through the relay clicking --> CEL light up --> start process again...

    Second, it has a draw that takes the battery from fully charged to barely charged overnight that has thus far eluded testing to identify the cause.

    Finally, while driving over longer distances it has begun tossing a code 032 (EGR) which goes away on it's own, and the VIC has started complaining about Servicing the 4WD Switch. I have had it on an OBD scan tool and all of the numbers are in a range that seems ok once the thing is running and warmed up...

    I have pulled all of the fuses and relays, tested them, and cleaned all of the contacts. I have replaced the CPS, ASD and Starter relays, the battery and the ECM, none of which have solved the problems.

    Has anyone seen any of these issues / problems and found a fix that didn't involve a shotgun and a shallow grave? ;)
  • traviscole84traviscole84 Member Posts: 3
    So I went to go start my jeep and turned the keep on and didnt hear my fuel pump coming on, like I usually do, and it wont start. So I went and bought a new fuel pump and new fuel filter and installed. Now when I turned my key to the on position, I hear a ticking noise coming from under the hood from the fuse box, where the relays are. So I went and bought a new fuel pump relay switch and installed. Turned key on and ticking noise coming from the Auto Shutdown relay switch so I switched that relay out and still makes a clicking noise for about 30 seconds. Even when I remove the relay switch from the box it still clicks for a bit then stops and still wont start, and also noticed that my rpm gauge is bouncing from 1 to 1 1/2 Rpms for about a minute then stops. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it will try to start but wont. Never had a issue with this jeep til I changed the fuel pump Yesterday. Please help, idk what else to do. Thank you
  • vinettavinetta Member Posts: 5
    dana having the same problem with 96 jeep cherokee laredo. it stalls backfired blew the muffler out. checkeed the pcm and one screw was out. you are saying washers and wrap it in plastic. wrap the whole computer in plastic then screw it in. my catalatic converter is also plugged do you have this video. you can send
  • traviscole84traviscole84 Member Posts: 3
    So I went to go start my jeep and turned the keep on and didnt hear my fuel pump coming on, like I usually do, and it wont start. So I went and bought a new fuel pump and new fuel filter and installed. Now when I turned my key to the on position, I hear a ticking noise coming from under the hood from the fuse box, where the relays are. So I went and bought a new fuel pump relay switch and installed. Turned key on and ticking noise coming from the Auto Shutdown relay switch so I switched that relay out and still makes a clicking noise for about 30 seconds. Even when I remove the relay switch from the box it still clicks for a bit then stops and still wont start, and also noticed that my rpm gauge is bouncing from 1 to 1 1/2 Rpms for about a minute then stops. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it will try to start but wont. Never had a issue with this jeep til I changed the fuel pump Yesterday. Please help, idk what else to do. Thank you
  • cantfixit2cantfixit2 Member Posts: 1
    I removed the water res, I see the PCM, but I can't find the two screws I keep reading about that might fix my stall problem. Where are they? Anyone have a picture?
  • stryder17stryder17 Member Posts: 1
    1. Instruments do not work.
    2. Checked fuses, swapped relays around - no change.
    3. No Spark.
    4. Tried to use OBD II - unable to communicate with computer.

    ECM?

    Please advise. Thanks.
  • jeepboy01jeepboy01 Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I'm not sure what exactly is wrong with your jeep.. but i had something similar happen with mine. Though i have a few ideas, take a meter and pull the plug on the fuel filter, next have a friend turn the ignition on and see what the voltages read. It should be somewhere between 10-16 volts. If that fails take off the throttle body, if it is heavily carbonated clean it very well or replace it. My last suggestion if all else fails or if you haven't already got it fixed is to replace the computer. You should be able to find one rather cheap at a junkyard. I hope this helps. And one last thing, make sure you replace the seal on the throttle body, those things are noisy as heck if they have a leak.
  • dieselman10dieselman10 Member Posts: 1
    hi, your problem sounds very familar. i was just wondering where excatly is the crank case sensor located.my 99 grand cherokee limited v6 will not start at all. only turn over. i changed fuel pump and fiter. replaced ignition coil strip. and still wont start. i belive im not getting fire. i just bought crank sensor, so if any tip or info could really help! thx
  • airbus_pilotairbus_pilot Member Posts: 7
    Hi dieselman....the crankshaft sensor is on the back of the engine. If you look on the RIGHT side of the engine, you will see a grey sensor just below the valve cover, this is the camshaft position sensor....follow the wiring from that and it goes into a bundle. There is a connector in the middle of that wiring bundle and from that connector it leads to the crankshaft sensor. You have to access that sensor from the top LEFT side of the engine and from underneath. It takes a small hand and arm to reach between the back of the engine and the firewall to reach the sensor.
  • westrepwestrep Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GCL - the engine will not even "crank" if the weather turns cool (below 55 degrees.) Once it warms up in the afternoon it cranks, starts and runs just fine. Never a problem when it is warm weather. I have a new battery so that is not the problem. Ever heard of anything like this?
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    that is were i would start. crank shaft position sensor. check your codes at autozone.... it is free... i had an intermittant problem with stalling but it always started back. it was the computer. $190 on ebay... cannot buy new ones anymore... give your vin nbr , mileage, and year and they reprogram... it is vwery easy to replace.... good luck
  • westrepwestrep Member Posts: 2
    2000 JGCL will not even crank if outside weather is below 55 degrees. New battery so that is not problem. Once weather warms up it starts and runs fine. Anyone ever heard of this type problem?
  • potatoeman2011potatoeman2011 Member Posts: 12
    this may sound crazy did lot of research thinking of buying jeep with lots of new parts but not start. People seem to think it has something to do with security system. Take your key and manually take it to every door and hatch and lock and unlock 3 to 4 times and then try to start it. If this works let me know because then I'am going to buy that jeepl
  • potatoeman2011potatoeman2011 Member Posts: 12
    did lot of research try resetting security system by working key in each lock by locking and unlocking 3 or 4 times then try to start it let me know if works. supposedly lot of problems with security systems
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