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If this works write back here. Because I may purchase a non starting jeep
Thanks
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Intermittent Fuel Pump
Intermittent Fuel Pump Relay
Intermittent ASD Relay
Good Luck
can anybody help with any suggestions
thanks
I start her up (happened in all seasons) goes up to 1000 rpms. Thinking "normal" since she just started up but if it goes longer than 10-15 mins. That's just odd. Then drops down to 600 rpms, now that's normal. Then Idle just acts up. Goes from 600 down to 400 rpms then up to 1000 rpms and jumps down to 400. She stalled on me twice and she only does that when she's sitting still. I think its the computer but I'm not positive and I don't know what else it could be.
having problems with it running, ill turn on but stall 3-5 secs later, before i go changing all the sensors id like to know where i should start, i thought it might be electrical so ive tried the backing off the screws/cleaning connecters to the comp, i cleaned the IAC vavle. also oil pressure rising once its running with the help of pumping the gas, no codes on odmeter/code reader/
Cutting the air off to the intake seems to help it run smooth??
id prefer to upload a vid to show exactly issues accuring, if someone know a bit about these issues id love to know where to start, BEFORE i go on a spending spree on sensors/filters/fuel pump/ and a comp!
01
inline 6/4.0
IMPORTANT: Make sure you include, make, model, year, odometer reading, vin number, old PCM model number and description of your problem. They'll custom program the new PCM to all of the above--as well as confirm whether you need a new PCM based on your problem. Be as detailed as possible with info from your mechanic. They're in a tough position because they can only send you a good PCM but if that's not really your problem, then a new PCM won't help. I thought this was pretty cool of them. I guess they've had their fair share of customer whose problems weren't PCM related.
WARNING: Don't confuse ACR with Auto Computer Exchange (http://autocomputerexchange.net/). These guys get a lot of returns and only offer 1 year warranty. And I found one too many complaints about them.
Lastly, I read on a few of the forums that Mopar does NOT offer new PCMs for older Jeeps. They actually buy rebuilds from these 3rd party companies, diagnose, package up and ship them off to Jeep certified repair shops and service shops who then charge an arm and leg to program and install. Another interesting tidbit, a lot of the these companies are in the south eastern states (FL, LA, TX). Due to hurricane katrina and other natural disasters hundreds of thousands of cars were trashed--including their PCMs. Hope this helps.
About 4-5 years ago I had the first problem.
When i started the jeep and put it in to gear and started to go it would die. it acted like i turned off the key, just died. Then it got hard to even start. That problem was the crank timing sensor. It is located at 10:00 position on bell housing (From under the vechile) . To get to it takes long arms and small hands. Oh and a lot of extenions and knuckle on a ratchet. Replaced with a new one from parts store for @ $70.00.
Then for the last few months the big one happened.
Ill try to explain in as much detail as i can.
My girl friend usally drives the jeep, so some times the problems are not always the easyest to figure out when she has no mechanical back ground at all.
She kept telling me that the jeep woul die on her and couln't explain what happened when it did. I would show up and it would run fine. Then about a week a go i was driving and it happened to me.
I was driving down the road at 45mph and it lost power, it was still running, but if ya gave gas nothing. It had dropped about 1000rpm and stayed there for a few seconds (@ 5-6 seconds) then it was fine for about 30 seconds, then again lost 1000 rpm and it back fireded and started going again. I drove about 2 mile down the road then it died at the stop light. It started back up and ran with the occational dieing along the way. No check engine light or any thing. Then about 2 days ago it died when my girl friend was making a turn and she almost hit the car that was going to turn on to the road she came off of because she lost power steering.
At this point I really had to do something about it. So i was reading the posts here and everyone had the symptoms and no answers.
I found a youtube vidieo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY62r-rtvls). Now im not really one to do this but i figured that since I had done all the trouble shooting in the hanes manual, and noticed that when it died and would not start i could still smell fuel, that the problem was electrical. Now mine did not have the loose connections just pulling it apart and puting it back together, The problem has seemed to dissapeared.
I would like to note that if you do deside to pull the pcm apart, that what you are prying on is a pc board so be carefull not to break it. And you have to pull the jell apart, when you are prying on it so it is kinda hard to get apart.
I will post again in a week and let you know if i have any other problems with it.
Take care and good luck with your trouble shooting!
I really don't want do do smart alec, but I bought a scan tool recently and it was a very useful bargain. It not only shows the troublecodes (you didn't have any), it shows you also the operation and sensor data. What's wery important, it can also show the oxygen sensor condition (current amplitude), so you can find out, if it's to be replaced (worn out) ot not.
I have the same problem with the instrument cluster light, I removed the dimmer switch module from the dashboard and cleaned the pod contacts. No problems anymore.
I hope it will help you.
I purchased a extra coil cause every time it would quit running i would have to call a tow truck. a 10 mm socket is all that's required to change it then i go trade the bad one for another new one. i'm not sure what cause's it unless it's the heat breaking it down. good luck. steve
I can hear tapping noises coming from within the valve cover even when it is cold as well as hot and I asked her about this she said this has been going on since she bought the truck used.
The following sensors have been checked.
TPS, IAC, MAP, Intake temp sensor, OX sensor, Fuel rail pressure regulator, water temp sensor, new plugs...a light brown color on plugs...spark plug wires, rotor and cap.
The item replaced was the fuel rail pressure regulator which would allow the pressure to go up to 40 psi and not drop back down to 32-34 psi. After replacement, the fuel pressure stablizes around 34 psi with vacuum variations...No more 40 psi.
I did check the vacuum and during smooth idle, no needle fluctuations @ 14 inches but when rough idle lots of fluctuations until the engine smooths out. I'm thinking when engine starts up again, possible lack of oil within the lifters or lifter bleed off until oil pressure fills lifters? Oil is thinner.
I have not had the valve cover off as of yet and I hope the rockers have had oil during this period of time whereas if not , then there could be more possible problems.
I'm thinking about adding Gum Out oil treatment to hopefully free up any defective lifters.
Any ideas folks?
I have the same symptoms with my '98 JGC Limited 5.2 134K.
My mechanic suspects the CPS, (crank position sensor)
And many moons ago on my old '87 JGC 4.0L same thing. Your in luck, the CPS on the 4.0 is a lot easier to get to than on my 5.2. On yours it is on the bell housing, and can be reached from underneath jeep.
The v8 engines require the removal of the wires, cap, and heat shield on the passenger to reach it. And a star tip head on the bolts. Not fun for me.
'87 i had when I lived in FL, and when it went in the heat, it left me stranded. My current address here in up state NY this time of year with the cold weather has allowed me to get away with out having to change it so far, but when the weather gets warmer, I won't have a choice.
I am on call almost 24/7 so finding the time to do it my self is difficult and the look on the mechanics face, well on my Jeep it would be most likely 2 hrs or more to get to the two bolts and plug. So I will try and get it my self when I have no other choice. save my self $150 - $200 in labor.
Good luck.
Thanks and I wish you all good luck with your trouble shooting.