Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

KCRam · October 2006

The place for all your Dakota engine and underhood queries.

gafo · April 2006

In June, 05, my mpg dropped from 22-23mpg to 17-18mpg on the highway on on tank of gas and stayed that way until today. 2 dealers have looked at it. One charge over $400, kept it a week and didn't fix anything. Other dealer had it a week and wanted to do over (and charge) the same as the first one. Both told me that there were no codes so there was no problem. Wanted to replace "points, plugs, wires, distributer cap, condenser and rotor". After the first I replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum and was told by both dealers that Bosch Platinum would not work in a Dakota. The second dealer kept it for a week and found nothing (but charged nothing). The last week in Mar,06, I contacted the service manager of the second dealer who had me bring it in. They run a fuel test resulting in 17mpg. The factory rep told them that was acceptible and that it was attributable to "oxegenated gasoline". That trip was from Las Vegas to Salmon, Idaho then to Jackson, WY, Yellowstone, Cody and then to Deadwood, SD, Mount Rushmore-a lot in mountains often running the AC. On my second fillup in Deadwood, we started home at when I gassed up in Cheyenne, WY the mileage dropped and remained that way to this day. Also, high gear, 60 mph plus has little throttle response but will kick down to a lower gear then accelerate. No one has ever heard of this and blaming it on oxegenated gas is stupid. If many others had experienced that loss there would be a loud complaint launched at the gov for imposing the gas on us. I am retired and current gas prices impact me severely. Any suggestions?

jneal · April 2006

Either you misunderstood what the dealer was telling you or they were blowing smoke at you. I don't know of any modern production vehicle that uses ignition points and condenser.
I'd look for another shop.

gafo · April 2006

That's why those items are in "quotes". The first dealer wanted to do a mass parts replacement to troubleshoot the problem but $200 for a set of plugs was simply rediculous. They did find a vacuum leak so I let them replace all the lines. Also flush the injector system. The second dealer advised me to do all of the same. When I told them I had replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum, the advisor looked me straight in the eye and told me that was the problem and that platinum plugs didn't work in Dodge engines. So far, everyone I told about this laughed. They kept the truck for a week and did nothing so I retrieved it on a Saturday. On Monday, he called to ask what we were going to do and did not know that I had picked it up. Now several months have passed and I contacted the service manager of the second dealership and we agreed to try again. He kept the car a week ran and fuel economy tests. They drove it around with some readout device connected and watched several parameters. I don't know if this is all smoke but he said everything is normal. So he contacted his Dodge rep who told him the mileage is normal and that the problem is oxegenated gasoline and at this point I realized that Dodge was "blowing smoke" as you so aptly put it. If you are a mechanic, what should the tailpipe look like if the truck was running normal? Years ago, I was taught not to buy a car if the tailpipe was any color but a mild grey. Thanks for you response. I hope to hear from you again. Gary

dakotaoffroad · May 2006

hey, My 02 dakota has the same problem with the fuel economy but i havn't figured it out yet. I also have a bad stalling problem at idle speeds, i sure would like to see 20+ mpg, if i find anything out i'll let you know, i find too that dealerships are just stupid, all money and no brains.

gafo · May 2006

gafo · May 2006

I just came back from a trip to Mexico. Drove a liitle over 1k miles and averaged 20mpg with ac running. It is improving on its own. I haven't changed anuthing. Thanks for your response.

sleded · June 2006

hey guys im new this the board and i love it already!! i was wondering if anyone knew what that code means? i took the truck in the other day for the check engine light and it was the gas cap!! so he fixed it and today the check engine light came on again. i think its the gas cap but who knows hope u guys can help me out

thanks

eric

dritten01 · June 2006

this is my first post, and I am glad I found this site. I have a 2000 4.7 dakota 4x4. Check engine lite on with these codes, but my bigger problem is that all of a sudden a couple of weeks ago my truck is taking 2-3 cranks to get started. Once started it runs great. any ideas? I thought maybe a bad injector, but getting same fuel mileage. today I am also hearing a loud ticking for the first 5 min or so after starting. It eventually goes away

scoopyex · June 2006

Depending on Your mileage, start considering the crank sensor to be at fault. I've had this problem myself and found the crank sensor to be the issue. You may have other underlying problems, but replacing the crank sensor or keeping a spare handy just in case isn't a bad idea.. especially if You're stranded on the side of the road some place and all the engine does is crank... providing Your fuel pump hasn't puttered out. Not all sensors cause driveability problems. Also take a good look at the EGR/Solenoid. That can cause irratic cold idles and starting problems... but won't prevent You from starting the engine.

iamsirjones · June 2006

It's your fuel pump for sure. I just lived through this. The check valve has most likely failed causing your fuel to drain back into your tank when you shut it off. I too have a 2000 Dakota quad cab 4X4. I thought it was injectors at first but after taking it into the garage they isolated certain areas of the fuel system and found that was the issue....a minor $700 (canadian) it was fixed. Hope this helps although it is not good news.

cdrinker · June 2006

I have 2000 with 4.7, in the last couple of weeks the check engine light came on and started running rough. They found the power steering switch was bad, they also said I needed a tune up. While changing the spark plugs I found the plugs from the right side of the motor were black the right side was fine. After changing the plugs the truck started to miss while idling and while driving it. The computer then showed I needed a new O2 sensor. After changing that and a new injector the plugs on the left side are black again. The truck is still running rough while idling and driving. Any suggestions or ideas.

cableguy822 · July 2006

I believe you should look at the durango forum i believe you will find your answer start with 197 and work your way up through I found it very helpful here is the link roxybluems, "Dodge Durango: Problems & Solutions" #191, 30 Jun 2006 9:46 pm

moquelvog · August 2006

I have a 5.2l 5-speed and when I depress the clutch the idle goes down, but it settles around 800rpm then goes to 500 then back to 800 and so on. Any ideas on what I need to do to get a consistant idle?

oldrusty · August 2006

my 1993 3.9 dakota has a persistant problem, and it is getting worse. when cold (and sometimes when warm) it will suddenly lose power and start bucking and valve rattleing like it is out of time, if I shut it off and restart it will run as it should until it does it againsometimes 3 or 4 times, while it is in the backfire , rattle sputter mode it will idle as if there is ni proble, the check engine light does not come on and i can retreive no trouble codes,???????????

dustyk · September 2006

Aside from the usual ignition components being suspect, it could be a clogged catalyic converter or a bad intake manifold gasket.

Regards,
Dusty

oldrusty · September 2006

Thanks Dusty, all the ignition stuff except the coil has been changed. I really hate that intermittant crap, it won't do it if you want it to. I have never experianced a clogged converter before so don,t know what to look for exactly. I tried to retreive the codes using the method in my manual but could get nothing from that. thanks again for the suggeation. oldrusty

willett · September 2006

Recently purchased a used 2001 Dodge Dakota, V6, 2WD. At 50-65 mph, on level road, it surges. The RPM will be at 1500 and move up to 2000 and then back to 1500. Sometimes moves up to 1700-1800 and then back to 1500. Dodge dealership won't try to repair it until they feel the "surging"...Any thoughts on what it could be and is it expensive? Thanks..Jim

mtrialsm · September 2006

Change the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS); $35 to $45 bucks.
Easy to replace,,,,,fixed mine.

Mick

technoman57 · September 2006

I just bought a 91 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 engine. I have checked with everybody I know to determine the rated hp. Does anybody out there know?

KCRam · September 2006

1991 3.9 was rated at 125 ponies

kcram - Pickups Host

technoman57 · September 2006

Thanks, I just installed a performance chip to boost it to another 25hp.

technoman57 · September 2006

willett · September 2006

I have isolated the "surging" problem a little more and wanted to get some more input from this forum...I usually keep the cruise on when on the open highway and that's when the surging happens..Today I left the cruise off and there was no surging.....Any more ideas of what the problem could be? Thanks..Jim

mtrialsm · September 2006

Have you cleaned the throttle body?

willett · September 2006

moquelvog · September 2006

dustyk · September 2006

The most common cause for this type of problem on single-point systems, especially on older, high mileage vehicles, is a dirty idle air port in the throttle body. The Idle Air Solenoid can easily be removed with one screw. Then the neoprene plunger and the associated port should be thouroghly cleaned with the proper solvent.

If this is a multi-point fuel injection system, the injectors could be very dirty.

Also, check for a sticky PCV valve and crackes in the vacuum hoses. Deteriorated rubber hoses are very often the cause for irratic idle and surging complaints on Dakotas.

Regards,
Dusty

deej63 · October 2006

my 1987 dodge dakota has a 3.9 lit is carburated. When i
start my truck it idles very high. But after it warms up
it idles normal. That isnt the big problem. I can only drive
the truck about 10 to 15 miles then it dies. I try to restart but it wont start{slow crank} If i let the truck
set for about 3-5 hours It will start again still fast idle.
I have replaced the coil,battery,plugs,wires,pickup coil.
please can you tell whats going on??????????????

oldrusty · October 2006

nbass · October 2006

94' 239 2wd
The heater works only well enough to slightly warm the cab. It will not get HOT inside the cab at all. Normal operating temp, normal working blower, and no leaking inside the cab from hte heater coil. Any suggestions?

sharris806 · October 2006

I have a 2001 dodge dakota 4x4 with the 4.7 in it I had the same exact code for sevaral months and i cahnged the gas cap three times 2 of wich were from the local auto parts store and the third one i bought from the dealer and that did not work i called every body and no one could figure it out so i started looking at all my evaproative hoses o bye the way that (code p 0455 is an evaporative emmision control small leak.) and there is a vacume canister under the truck right in front of the gas tank and there is a couple of hoses on there that were cracked all i did was wrap them with electrical tape to see if that was the problem and it worked. also on the throttle body the driver side there is a hose there it was also cracked my light hasnt come back on since and it has been a couple of months now.

sleded · October 2006

dustyk · October 2006

This could be a bad throttle position sensor issue as well.

Regards,
Dusty

reddakota02 · October 2006

If you'll allow, I'd like to pose the following...

I own a 2002 Dodge Dakota 2X4 regular cab. Several months ago (around the time I passed 30,000 miles) a klunking noise started occurring underneath my feet at or around the base of the steering column. When I took it to the dealer the service manager (who also owns a 2002 Dakota) told me that he issue is in the "steering knuckle" and the only fix to to grease it, but other that hte klunking noise and feeling there's nothing mechanically wrong with this issue.

I find this hard to believe as this has gotten worse since it started and the manager told me this is normal occurence for Dakotas once they reach around 30,000 miles.

This doesn't seem right as I wouldn't have bought the truck if I had know this.

A second question I have is whether any other Dodge owners feel their windshield has become too pitted and scratched through normal wear and tear on the vehicle. I've never had such an issue with ANY other car I've owned.

A third question is does the insterior side of anyone's Dakota or Ram winshield frost up as much or more than the outside on days when the temperature is and stays below freezing?

Thank you.

dustyk · October 2006

Are the symptoms a normal occurrence? Yes, if the upper ball joints or the intermediate steering shaft is worn, the two most common causes of this type of symptom.

But it is NOT a normal thing to expect from a Dakota. You might think about seeking another Dodge service department. The service manager at your dealership is full of BS.

This issue can be isolated to the ball joints by greasing them. If the klunking stops or is greatly reduced, worn joints are a likely suspect. A worn intermediate steering shaft can cause this, too, and is also somewhat common. The upper joints should have been recalled and replaced.

My 2003 Dakota at 70,000 miles has some pits but I would not judge them, or the condition of the glass to be inordinate. My ex-wifes Toyota Avalon is much, much worse at 98,000 miles.

Regarding moisture forming on the inside of the windshield glass, yes, in rainy weather I do experience some of that, but the defroster clears it readily.

Best regards,
Dusty

gtownguy · November 2006

Hi Guys its been a while. I have 64k miles on my 01 QC 4x4 4.7L and have been getting a check engine light on. It seems to do it more when the truck is under high speed and or load on a long drive. I believe P306 is cyl.#6 misfire. I have approx 15k on new plugs, same that came with the truck. Does anyone know what can cause this. Should I change #6 plug and if so what one is that one. Any other possible causes.
Thanks for any responses.

Tom.

jneal · November 2006

I would either swap #6 plug with another one and see if the code changes or just stick a new plug in #6 and see if the code goes away.

gphillippi · November 2006

A second problem I have with my 70K truck is also sporadic and 2 dealers couldn't figure anything out. The truck will start to increase engine speed, in gear, when stopped with foot brake at an intersection. It will almost send me into the intersection! I have to apply more pressure to remain stopped. You would think Dodge dealers would consider this pretty serious, I do. After sevral failed visits to find anything to fix, they suggested changing plugs, air filter and pvc valve which I did. No small task and I am a mechanic of sorts. This seemed to work immediately, but 2 weeks later, it returned. I have not done 70K service yet as I don't trust dealer and want to perform myself, as much as possible or find a good mechanic in this new area for me of Portland, Oregon. Thanks, signed Speedy!

jneal · November 2006

Which engine/transmission do you have?
Have you checked for codes? If so, what were they?

gphillippi · November 2006

I have the V8, auto trans and don't kow what you mean by codes? Thanks

jneal · November 2006

I assume then that you have the 4.7 V8/automatic combo.
You stated in your first post that you are a mechanic of sorts but you don't know what trouble codes are??
The main computer detects and stores codes for any problems it detects. The Check Engine light will come on and normally stay on until reset but this isn't always the case.
Go by AutoZone and they will check/read any codes for free. If there are any stored codes, come back and post them and someone may can give you further guidance.
The only thing I can suggest, assuming that you did a competent job on what you have already done, would be to change the throttle position sensor. This is usually the culprit in a lot of drivability problems such as yours.

bpeebles · November 2006

I guess there are several folks that think they are mechanics 8-) ... There is no need to take your Dakota anywhere to "pull the codes"

I have posted this about 50 times and will say it again -
To get the codes from Dakota, do the following...
Without starting engine, turn key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (then leave ON) - The odemeter display will now show the diagnostics running and will display any failing codes when it is complete. Write down any codes then turn the key OFF.

gphillippi · November 2006

Well lets not get picky about being a mechanic. I don't have diagnostc systems for moderns, I restored antique vehicles. Anyway, Thanks for the trick, will use it.

gphillippi · November 2006

Thanks, I will change out the tps, and am changing brake/tranny fluids with a flush just for grins as well.

manstang46 · November 2006

i have a 2000 quad cab 5spd w/ the 4.7l engine with 63k miles. my trouble is when you go to start the truck it will crank for a few seconds before it starts. sometimes you have to stop and start cranking again. occasionally it will spit and sputter before it actually starts, and runs smoothly, i replaced the plugs and that did nothing. i have read a couple differernet string saying maybe a crank sensor or maybe the fuel pump. also seems like the low end power isn't there like it was. thanks guys

jgerrity · November 2006

my engine light on my 99 dakota has come on with a temporary code for the evap purge solenoid. I had solenoid replaced but the light came back on with the same code. Any idea what this may be? and how to fix it?

bpeebles · November 2006

The evaperative emmissions system has several diagnostics it runs thru and can throw several codes based on the outome of the tests. One should NEVER just replace the part that flagged a fail... it is most often NOT the source of the problem. (just a symptom)

To isolate a problem, one really needs to understand what each of the diagnostic tests are checking and how they are doing it.

For example, one of the evaperative emmissions diagnostics uses a soliniod to seal off the airspace above the fuel in the gastank, then runs an airpump to build a slight pressure in this airspace. A timer is then used to make certain the the pressure "holds". This test will flag a failure if any hoses are leaking or the gascap is not sealing properly.

#1 thing you need to do CHECK YOUR GASCAP!

jneal · November 2006

"I guess there are several folks that think they are mechanics 8-) ..."

I have "been thinking" I was a mechanic for over forty years now since I went thru my first schooling in the military but guess I have been wrong all this time.

I advise people to go by Autozone as most people find it easier and more convenient to have them read and told what they mean than trying to find out for themselves what the different codes mean.

jgerrity · November 2006

Tried the gas cap with no luck. The light was off for that night as I drove around but the next day the light was back on. Any other ideas??

bpeebles · November 2006

The gascap was just the most common thing to check... you have still not told us what code(s) you are getting. Are you CERTAIN that you replaced the gascap with a known-good one? (Some Dak gascaps have been known to go bad internally and it is not easilly seen by looking at it)

The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is expected to go out and come back on. This is due to nature of some types of codes self-resetting. When the auto-diagnostics run again, the fail comes back and re-lights the MIL.

The EEC diagnostics DO NOT run every time you drive.... thus they cannot fail every time you drive.

If you really want to work thru this yourself, you should start "boning up" on the EEC diagnostics. There is all kinds of reading material available on the web for your browsing pleasure. If you research it for a couple hours, you will likely be better educated than many mechanics (who seem to just blindly replace parts and charge you for it)

I have always wanted to see a LAW that forced mechanics to refund your money if they replace a part that DOES NOT fix the problem. I would bet that would weed out some of the bonehead mechanics. 8-)

Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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