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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    just make sure that the block has the exstra mount holes ,look were your engine mounts are on you 318 thay bolt on like a chevy 3 bolts .got a engine built by S&S engine remanufacturing found it on GOOGLE it is a good start price is wright just ask for a short block then build it from there pull the 318 out and put the 360 in just remember the ballacer the torqconverter and the oil pan for 360 truck you got it made.
  • sjefferssjeffers Member Posts: 9
    check this out buy hot rod April 08 theres a 360 buildup youl like that
  • steve174steve174 Member Posts: 1
    hi i been having a problem with my truck the gages are not working and its not getting any spark. the problem started a few weeks ago it wouldn't start then a few day later it started. then it would just suddenly die. then would not start again then it started a few days later i drove it for about 15 mins around the block and parked it and it hasent started since.

    thanks
  • kdm172kdm172 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota V6 A/T 4x4
    My problem is that I lose power after about 50mph I push the pedal all the way down and there is no response it will slowly get up but it takes its sweet time...
    Was told either the timing is off or the fuel pump is clogged by the dodge dealer, any suggestions??

    Thanks,
    David
  • oldman1924dboldman1924db Member Posts: 1
    My Dodge Dakota starts ok but you have to keep your foot on the gas peddel to keep it running. I unhooked the battery then hooked it back up. Started the truck and it idled like new for two days then went back to not idling. Unhooked the battery- hooked it back up idles ok. No check eng. light, the only code is 12 for unhooking the battery. Did'nt think to check colds befor unhooking the battery the first time.
  • moquelvogmoquelvog Member Posts: 21
    My 97 Dakota, as the title would suggest, idles around 2000rpm when cold. I immediately turn off and start again and it idles at a norm 600rpm. ??? No check engine and problem doesn't go away when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected. Any ideas out there?

    Omen
  • davidb3265davidb3265 Member Posts: 1
    Miss lasts for only a brief time.Usually occurs on light acceleration but at any speed. Have replaced spark plugs and wires,checked distributor bushing,tried a new EGR.The miss just goes away and will come back after a period of time from one hour to several days,the warmer the day the more likely it is to occur.I installed a new K&N air filter a while ago but can't see this causing the problem.Hope someone has a suggestion!
  • fourdogs65fourdogs65 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a great 2001 extended cab with the 4.7 V8 which I love. The only problem is the engine crapped out with 170,000 on it. It has a gray sludge in the valve train due to metal in the oil. did not take it apart further to find out the exact failure. My mechanic is an old friend that I trust, and he said that the 4.7 engine is overly prone to failure and he would not waist his time with a rebuild or a used engine. He says to cut our losses and sell it for parts and start over with a vehicle with a better drive train. But we love the dakota so we are torn. Please any advice would be apreciated. Thank you, Todd :sick: :cry:
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Member Posts: 52
    I have a 2001 dodge dakota with the 4.7 with 204,000 miles and counting. I change the oil every 5000 miles with no oil added between changes. I would rebuild the engine if you choose since it has been proven because 170,000 is not too shabby. I usually take "sage" advice from others like your mechanic friend with a grain of salt.

    Robert
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You can tell your "mechanic" that he's full of you know what! I will bet he is a just another Dodge hater. The 4.7 IS NOT prone to failure. Just the opposite, in fact, it is one of the best designed if not the best designed and built American engine on the planet.

    The gray sludge, by the way, is likely material from the camshaft chain tensioners wearing badly. What kind of oil have you been using?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I concour with dustyk!

    The 4.7L semi-hemi actually WON AWARDS when it was first introduced. It is overbuilt even for a truck engine. (Nodular iron bedplate usually found on hi-tech racing engines!!)

    Everywhere one looks at the 4.7L, there are surprises in the design. From the close factory toleraces to the extra-high piston-ring pressures. The hollow camshafts which deliver oil directly where it is needed. This engine is designed for the long-haul.

    Of course, some folks ignore the recommended oil specs which are there for a reason.

    BTW: I changed the oil in my 2000 4.7 thisafternoon! (I am still running synthetic oil due to the emulsion issue.)
  • prodieselprodiesel Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    This is cory. I have a dodge full size truck doing the same thing. Just wondering if you figured out what was wrong with your dakota?
  • bryanajbryanaj Member Posts: 2
    just switched out my high mile engine with same yr.1991 engine 3.9L,the motor ran excellent prior to installing, now engine expands oil filter and it leaks around the seal on the oil filter. Is there an oil pump regulator in the engine? :mad: HELP!!!!
    :confuse:
  • bryanajbryanaj Member Posts: 2
    I haven't figured it out yet, and it's driving me crazy! The engine was running fine when we pulled it out of the old truck. I'd be good to go if I could fix this problem!
  • syn5syn5 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Dakota does the same thing. My mechanic found that it is the IAC Motor. I decided not to replace as it only acts up on cold mornings and resets itself with a second start.
  • fireman725fireman725 Member Posts: 1
    I am rebuilding the engine of my 2001 3.9 liter dodge dakota. I have to replace 3 pistons and connecting rods, this will make me have 3 old pistons and 3 new pistons. Will this matter in the performance of the engine when we I start running it again? I'd rather not spend the money to buy all 6 new ones but would it be worth spending the extra money replacing all of them or no? :sick:
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    To start out I have a 1994 dodge dakota V8 5.2 liter automatic. ABout a month ago I started to loose power and it would die on me. So I replace the EGR Valve as suggested by people on forum.

    But today while driving, the truck sounded as if it was not in gear and then would not accelerate well no matter how much I pushed down on the gas. Then it sounded as if there was air coming out of a hose. When I pulled over and took a look it smelled like melting plastic. The plastic part of the EGR valve was melted. So I replaced the EGR valve again.

    And after a few blocks it sounded as if the valve blew again. ANd sure enough the valve looks as if the very center of the plastic piece is melted or blew straight down the center of it.

    Any help or suggestion of what I can do would be really great.
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    This might be a bit late but have you checked the EGR valve? It is not the cheapest part (about $100) but is very easy to replace. Let us know what you figure out.
  • jyrojyro Member Posts: 4
    Todd,

    I would love to speak to you regarding your 2001 Dakota with engine failure. If you can click on my username and find an email address, shoot me a quick email. I'll reply back to you.

    If you can't find an email, reply to this thread and let me know that. And I'll put my email address on here. Thanks.

    - Jason :)
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    SO after dealing with 2 dodge dealers and the local shop found out that the catalatic converter was the problem. It had broken in ternal part that where causing the exaust to be to hot and that was what melted the Egr valve.

    SO got that replaced and then put in the 3rd EGR valve and it runs like it should again. Wow forgot what a beast it is. Thank you to our local Shucks who replaced not 1 but 2 melted EGR valves under warranty for us. There customer service is awesome. ANd I have to drive by 4 other parts stores to get to them but it is worth it.
  • cindy215cindy215 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab the VIN number pulls up a 4.7 engine but the sticker under the hood says a 5.2 how do i know which engine i have?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The 2 engines are VERY different.

    Here is a write-up on the 4.7L semi-hemi. (with photos)

    Perhaps this will help you identify your engine.

    HINT: The 4.7L does not have any sparkplug wires while the 5.2 does.
  • boatdude22boatdude22 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 dakota with a 3.9 v6. it has a spun rod bearing. i found a 3.9 at a wrecking yard out of a 98 dakota. will the 98 go in my truck and everything hook up, or is there things i have to change to make it work. or will it not work at all? please help asap before i go buy the 98 motor. thanks, scott
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm pretty sure that after 2000 the 318 (5.2) was no longer available.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You should have no problems swapping in '98 to replace a '95, they're both Magnum versions. A '92 might be better. They used a larger exhaust manifold and were rated slightly higher in horsepower.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Dusty is correct. The 5.2L (318ci) was replaced with the 4.7L semi-hemi in the 2000 model year. I do not think it is possible for your 2001 to have a 5.2L from the factory.

    Trivia: The 4.7L was first available in the Jeep Grand Cherokee in 1999. Starting in 2000, it was also available in the Dodge Dakota. (Replacing the 1960s-era 318ci)
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    heres the senerio i was on cruise control at 55 mpg suddenly dakota jumps off cruise i hear a little pop from the engine gets knocked down to 30 mpg pummping gas can hear the motor misfire but still losing power have to pump the gas to keep going til i get home shes a 94 model i had already put new wires and plugs but rechecked them anyway could it possibly be a fuel pump or rotor these are suggestions from my step son i know i need to replace the sensor above the transmission but hadnt yet and i had replaced the sensor on the rear im afraid to drive her cuz its hot and i dont want to leave her on the road any suggestions would be appreaciated
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 02 quad cab 4x4 with a 4.7 and the idle from start goes about 2000 rpm and then goes down and right back up again. if i leave it just sit there it will calm down until i put the air on then it does the same thing, any help???? at wits end here. sitting at stoplights it will idle up as well thus having to press brake more
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Clean the IAC (Idle Air Controller)
  • jprice3jprice3 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 6 cyl with 170k miles. The engine is not using any oil anf all cylinders are burning clean. There is, however, some constant lifter noise. The alarming issue is that the oil pressure warning light comes on at idle (600 rpm)
    shortly followed by the gauge. Both go out at 1100 rpm. Suggestions?
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Sounds as though a good possibility would be some oil sludge build up. The oil light stared flickering occasionally in my wife's Mercury Grand Marquis recently (112K miles) and I ran some motor flush through it for five minutes before the last oil change. That was 3K miles ago and I have not seen the oil light come on again. It is probably worth a try on yours, especially with that kind of mileage on it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with the last appender. Try what he suggests (motor flush) to help clean out the gunk from inside the engine and lifters.

    Also, you may try a can of STP oil treatment when you put the fresh oil in it. This will add extra detergents to the oil to help clean up the lifters. The STP oil treatment also improves viscosity (thickens the oil) which will help quiet the lifter-rattle.

    You should EXPECT the oil to get dirty pretty quickly with the STP in it. You may as well use inexpensive oil because you will be draining it before 3,000 miles.

    If you are REALLY serious about cleaning the inside of your engine. Consider running MOBIL1 synthetic after that. The synthetic oils are extremely good at scrubbing the inside of an engine sqeeky-clean.

    I once bought a car that had 1/4 inch of gunk on the inside of the valve-cover.... I started to run only MOBIL1 in that engine. About a year later, I removed the valve-cover to adjust the valves and I could SEE MY REFLECTION in the shiny metal on the underside.
  • retired8retired8 Member Posts: 15
    My original equipment battery finally died. I had a heck of a time removing the clamps which were like none I've worked with before. They were dug into the posts very deeply and I had to mess them up getting them off. My question: is there a special tool to remove and replace those? Can I just get a normal clamp and somehow clamp the old cables to the new clamps. Or do I have to get it to the dealer for their expertise? Thanks.
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    hi i have a 94 dakota as i was going to a town 18 miles away only drivin 55mph she begins to jerk and shake i took my foot off the gas and pushed it again she regained then began shakin again that tappered off she was fine i could feel her shakin as i maintained 55mph at one point i had to pull over and just shut down can anyone help i did put some gas treatment in but do get a little bit of shakin on my trip home
  • henryh2henryh2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 dakota 5 spd
    I filled fuel tank to filler neck and was driving 40 mph about 8 miles from shell sta when motor lost power I floored it got no response it sputtered and died.I could get it to start and idle and it would die after 30-45 seconds.I waited 10 minutes it started I put it into 1st it drove 15 yards and it died again.I went home to get vehicle to tow dakota home I returned 2 hours later I started it and it ran normal so I pulled out onto road drove it to stop sign about 100 yards and died again . I towed it home next day it would start and idle for about 1 minute then quit .It started for me 5x now it won't start,I'm quessing it might be a fuel problem I figured bad gas maybe fuel filter,I went to parts store and they told me this dakota has a internal filter and I need to replace fuel pump cost $160.00
    It seems to be a fuel problem but I'm not sure are there some other things that would cause this? what should I be checking. I also checked for codes and I got 23 and 5     :confuse:
  • goose6goose6 Member Posts: 1
    92 dodge dakota no spark and no fuel pressure

    I have replaced the crank sensor, computor, dist modual, pickup coil. ran 12volts to the fuel pump so I know it works, also have check all the fueses and most of the grounds, and all of the relays I think any one with any thoughts on what else I should check ???

    I am so out of Ideals.
  • deputy235deputy235 Member Posts: 3
    I recently acquired a 1999 dodge Dakota from my sister that is rough on vehicles. She said it ran hot, so she replaced the radiator. When I went to pick it up it starts fine but there is a knocking noise in the engine. I checked and there is water in the oil. How do I check to see if she messed up a head or a gasket? Also since the oil is floating on top of the water could this be why it knocks? If I change the oil do you think the knocking will go away? I plan to fix it up for my step son, and don't have a lot of money. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Water in the oil may not necessarily mean its coolant. If this vehicle has been owned by someone that is "rough" on vehicles, it is possible that this engine has not received very good maintenace. In frequent oil changes in combination with short trip driving can build up moisture. This usually shows up as a whitish or light brown frothy element in the oil visible on the oil cap or dipstick. If this engine has a lot of miles and the engine ventilation system is not working correctly, moisture can build up very quickly.

    The detection of coolant in the oil or a bad head gasjket can be diagnosed. I would recommend you perform these tests or have your local repair establishment perform them for you first. Mopars aren't noted for having head gasket problems and I haven't seen or even heard of one in years. A bad intake manifold gasket can cause a problem, however.

    In the meantime I would change out the oil and see if the knock goes away. If it does it indicates that there was probably too much moisture (water) in the oil. Then perform the test for coolant and proceed accordingly.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I know for a fact that In 1999, the ONLY vehicle available with the 4.7L was the Jeep Grand Cherokee. The 4.7L engine was first available in the Dakota in the ModelYear 2000 .... but you suggest you have a 1999 Dakota with the 4.7L Somthing does not jiive here.

    HINT: Check if your Dakota has rack-n-pinion steering (1st available in MY2000)

    To more specifically answer your question "How do I check to see if she messed up a head or a gasket?"
    The common way is to do a "bleeddown test" and a "compression test".
  • mfreehillmfreehill Member Posts: 3
    how do i remove the fuel line from the line that feeds the injectors 2000 dodge dakota 4x4 v6
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I beleive there is a "special tool" which is intended for this task. Some autoparts stores (Autozone?) will "loan out" special tools.
  • deputy235deputy235 Member Posts: 3
    The production date is 8/99 and under the hood tag is 4.7. It must be a later production date
  • deputy235deputy235 Member Posts: 3
    I didn't have a chance to change the oil yet but i got a clearer story, The truck was running hot so her mechanic put a new radiator in it. Right after she got it back someone hit her in the front and damaged the radiator so they put in another new one. After he installed the second one he noticed a slight knock in the engine and it hasn't been driven since. I opened the radiator cap and it still has water in it. If it was using this much water i would think it would be empty. I also pulled the dipstick out again after sitting for over a week and there is no separation of water and oil, it all looks the same. When i change the oil i will let you know what happens. Thanks for you help
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Given the info you show above about your underhood sticker... I beleive you have one of the early MY (Model Year) 2000 Dakota. (I orderd my 2000 from the factory and took delivery in October 1999)

    I assume you DID verify that you have rack-n-pinion steering.

    Now that we have that setteled.... how did you determine that you have water in the oil?

    Just incase you were not aware...
    The very early 4.7L engines had a tendancy to build up water-oil emulsion in the oil-filler tube. There were several 'recalls' pertainig to this. (I am very aware of them because I initiated at least one of the recalls)

    The 2 changes were
    1) The oil-filler cap was redesigned to contain an insulating barrier from colder under-hood air.
    2) An insert (factroy calls it a "baffle") was developed which slides into the oil-filler tube.

    Both of the above changes to the very early MY 2000 4.7L oil-filler tube were intended to reduce the buildup of condensation inside the oil-filler tube.
  • ivansm85ivansm85 Member Posts: 1
    is the dakota 97 magnum v6 motor same used on the ram model? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Depends on ModelYear of the Ram.
  • ronindelawareronindelaware Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a '98 Dodge Dakota, V-6 , 3.9 4x4. Its been a good truck over the years and I have taken care of it the best way I can. Its got me around 188,000 miles, I cannot complain much. Low cylinder compression in cylinders 4 and 6 . OKAY needs a new head gasket.
    Tore it all apart and swapped out the gaskets with the top end overhaul kit.
    New cylinder heads- cause they were cracked.
    OK.. RE-INSTALLING the heads went fine - torqued down to spec.
    Now I am installing the INTAKE MANIFOLD onto the heads and I keep snapping bolts--#1 and #2 in the sequential order. I replaced the bolts and bought a new torque wrench- Craftsman dial- in torque release---How could one go wrong? Snapped another with Dodge dealer bought bolts and new torque wrench---
    Haynes book says to tighten to 12lbs and rock around up to 144 lbs---Dodge dealer said to start at 24lbs to 48 to 82 lbs---I have tried Haynes first and broken bolts ---redid everything and tried Dealer way---still same results.
    What is the proper torque spec and foot lbs; so I dont have to keep replacing bolts ?
    Please , any help would be Wonderful. Losing my sanity in Oklahoma . Thank-you
  • wiremapwiremap Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 99 Dakota with a 3.9lt and 63,000 miles in it. The truck was not used for about a year at the time I got it. I have change the oil and filter as soon as I've got home. Couple days ago the pressure gauge hits 0 for a couple of seconds and then got back to normal. It does that twice on the same trip. Tonight it goes down to 0, never came back to normal, I was close to my house so I just got there. I turn it off, wait for a couple of minutes and start it back. The engine start to make some noice (I guess it was the lifters). Any advice from someone. Should I replace the pump and start praying?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. The older 3.9 motors and 318s required a 35 lb. torque for intake manifold. Are you sure about the 144 foot pounds?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Oil pressure falling that rapidly then rising again usually indicates a clogged oil pump inlet screen. I suppose you could have a bypass valve that sticks intermittently, but I've always seen them stick in one position and stay there.

    Looks like your going to be pulling the pan anyways.

    Regards,
    Dusty

    P.S. I once found an oil pump screen blocked by a heavy paper return parts tag on a '70 Ford. That engine had 16,000 miles on it before it seize from lack of lubrication.
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