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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions
The place for all your Dakota engine and underhood queries.
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I'd look for another shop.
thanks
eric
Regards,
Dusty
Easy to replace,,,,,fixed mine.
Mick
kcram - Pickups Host
If this is a multi-point fuel injection system, the injectors could be very dirty.
Also, check for a sticky PCV valve and crackes in the vacuum hoses. Deteriorated rubber hoses are very often the cause for irratic idle and surging complaints on Dakotas.
Regards,
Dusty
start my truck it idles very high. But after it warms up
it idles normal. That isnt the big problem. I can only drive
the truck about 10 to 15 miles then it dies. I try to restart but it wont start{slow crank} If i let the truck
set for about 3-5 hours It will start again still fast idle.
I have replaced the coil,battery,plugs,wires,pickup coil.
please can you tell whats going on??????????????
The heater works only well enough to slightly warm the cab. It will not get HOT inside the cab at all. Normal operating temp, normal working blower, and no leaking inside the cab from hte heater coil. Any suggestions?
Regards,
Dusty
I own a 2002 Dodge Dakota 2X4 regular cab. Several months ago (around the time I passed 30,000 miles) a klunking noise started occurring underneath my feet at or around the base of the steering column. When I took it to the dealer the service manager (who also owns a 2002 Dakota) told me that he issue is in the "steering knuckle" and the only fix to to grease it, but other that hte klunking noise and feeling there's nothing mechanically wrong with this issue.
I find this hard to believe as this has gotten worse since it started and the manager told me this is normal occurence for Dakotas once they reach around 30,000 miles.
This doesn't seem right as I wouldn't have bought the truck if I had know this.
A second question I have is whether any other Dodge owners feel their windshield has become too pitted and scratched through normal wear and tear on the vehicle. I've never had such an issue with ANY other car I've owned.
A third question is does the insterior side of anyone's Dakota or Ram winshield frost up as much or more than the outside on days when the temperature is and stays below freezing?
Thank you.
But it is NOT a normal thing to expect from a Dakota. You might think about seeking another Dodge service department. The service manager at your dealership is full of BS.
This issue can be isolated to the ball joints by greasing them. If the klunking stops or is greatly reduced, worn joints are a likely suspect. A worn intermediate steering shaft can cause this, too, and is also somewhat common. The upper joints should have been recalled and replaced.
My 2003 Dakota at 70,000 miles has some pits but I would not judge them, or the condition of the glass to be inordinate. My ex-wifes Toyota Avalon is much, much worse at 98,000 miles.
Regarding moisture forming on the inside of the windshield glass, yes, in rainy weather I do experience some of that, but the defroster clears it readily.
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks for any responses.
Tom.
Have you checked for codes? If so, what were they?
You stated in your first post that you are a mechanic of sorts but you don't know what trouble codes are??
The main computer detects and stores codes for any problems it detects. The Check Engine light will come on and normally stay on until reset but this isn't always the case.
Go by AutoZone and they will check/read any codes for free. If there are any stored codes, come back and post them and someone may can give you further guidance.
The only thing I can suggest, assuming that you did a competent job on what you have already done, would be to change the throttle position sensor. This is usually the culprit in a lot of drivability problems such as yours.
I have posted this about 50 times and will say it again -
To get the codes from Dakota, do the following...
Without starting engine, turn key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (then leave ON) - The odemeter display will now show the diagnostics running and will display any failing codes when it is complete. Write down any codes then turn the key OFF.
To isolate a problem, one really needs to understand what each of the diagnostic tests are checking and how they are doing it.
For example, one of the evaperative emmissions diagnostics uses a soliniod to seal off the airspace above the fuel in the gastank, then runs an airpump to build a slight pressure in this airspace. A timer is then used to make certain the the pressure "holds". This test will flag a failure if any hoses are leaking or the gascap is not sealing properly.
#1 thing you need to do CHECK YOUR GASCAP!
I have "been thinking" I was a mechanic for over forty years now since I went thru my first schooling in the military but guess I have been wrong all this time.
I advise people to go by Autozone as most people find it easier and more convenient to have them read and told what they mean than trying to find out for themselves what the different codes mean.
The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is expected to go out and come back on. This is due to nature of some types of codes self-resetting. When the auto-diagnostics run again, the fail comes back and re-lights the MIL.
The EEC diagnostics DO NOT run every time you drive.... thus they cannot fail every time you drive.
If you really want to work thru this yourself, you should start "boning up" on the EEC diagnostics. There is all kinds of reading material available on the web for your browsing pleasure. If you research it for a couple hours, you will likely be better educated than many mechanics (who seem to just blindly replace parts and charge you for it)
I have always wanted to see a LAW that forced mechanics to refund your money if they replace a part that DOES NOT fix the problem. I would bet that would weed out some of the bonehead mechanics. 8-)