Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

1…457910

Comments

  • wiremapwiremap Member Posts: 2
    Thank you, very much for the tip. I'll get my hands dirty. Jaja
  • viking698viking698 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 02 dodge dakota i was driving one day and it shut off no powe i tryd starting it up a gen and nuthing i replacet the starter and nuthing it acts like its dead i know i need a new batery how ever tryd jumping it n nuthing i beleve its an electricole issue but im not a 100% shure culd it be sumthing in the ignition thank you for the help
  • jedrojedro Member Posts: 1
    what size are the bolts,studs on a 92 v6 exhaust manifold to engine?i have looked just about everywhere.2 studs have rusted and broke off leaving 1/2 of stud in block.also any tips on removing broken stud from block?
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    same thing happened to my 02 but what i found out is that the studs that are in the block unscrewed by finger and i had 4 of them broke, i took one of the broken studs to my local part store and they hooked me up with what i needed.
  • nenisinenisi Member Posts: 4
  • nenisinenisi Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport, V6, 4X4. When the outside temp falls below 32 degrees I have a problem. Engine starts fine. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving I sometimes cannot go uphill over 15 miles an hour. Downhill is worse, I leave off the gas, the RPM's fluctuate by as much as 1000, it then backfires. I have replaced the cam sensor and the air temp. sensor. If the check engine light comes on, it signifies the cam sensor. HELP!! I'm at my witts end! Do you think it could be the crank sensor or possibly the temp. sensor?
  • 95f15095f150 Member Posts: 1
    well okay, first of all, my first post. and i need some help here. my dad has a 94 dakota 318 4x4. pretty nice pickup when he bought it. well the bad part is he bought it for me to drive. and as i am 16 years old livin in north dakota, it went through more mud holes than anything pickup i have seen. it has been raced, and the engine has gone to hell and back. and i gotta say, that thing just doesnt want to be stuck. i think it got stuck 6 times in a little over a year, which is a lot better then my ford. anyways, he also has an 85 dodge ram charger, 318 4x4 that doesnt have insurance anymore, so it basically sits in the driveway. well we have swapped the engine in my ford twice, as i have blown in up twice (water in the cylinders both times). the second time we took it out we just replaced cylinders. and now he wants to take the cylinders and connecting rods, possibly more engine parts out of the ram charger engine and put them in the dakota. but as the ram charger is carburated and the dakota is fuel injected he doesnt know if they will swap. i mean he basically wants to use as much of the carburated engine as he can, as that thing just wont ever die. so if you could it would be nice if someone could tell me if the pistons, possibly the heads, oil pump, and other engine parts would swap into a dakota engine. thank you and sorry for being so long winded. its kind of my downfall to forums.
  • rumzrumz Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 dakota sport with a 318 4x4 and and when i get to 60-65 and stay there and my rpms are at the little line below 2000 and will jump up to 2000 rpms and sounds like it tries to shift in and out of ODrive and i lost a lot of power i herd it maybe my cat but i dont know i may have it cut off what do you think please help
  • jyrojyro Member Posts: 4
    "what do you think please help"

    I think you should have paid more attention in your english / grammar classes. Sounds to me like your torque convertor is acting up. But I'm not an expert on slushboxes (or anything really), I only drive manual transmissions. But that is my initial impression. A cat problem would more than likely result in not being able to build speed / rpm, or slowing down. Basically a cat problem usually causes exhaust flow to be hindered, the engine won't breathe as well and will lose power. Normally it will not jump up in rpm due to a cat problem. I think that it has got to be something related to the transmission. Torque converter would be the first thing I would have checked.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    In 1992, Chrysler introduced the Magnum version of the 318 motor and made significant changes that would likely affect your desire to swap parts. I believe the connecting rods and pistons would probably interchange okay, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm not an expert in Mopar parts swapping.

    The block uses a roller lifter camshaft and incorporates a different oiling method for the rockers. In addition, the push rod angled changed that means only a Magnum head would be compatible with a Magnum block, and conversely a non-Magnum block is only compatible with a non-Magnum cylinder head. The Magnum motor incorporates some lighter materials for the piston, and a high-swirl, highly efficient cylinder head.

    Unless you are on a tight budget, I would recommend rebuilding or refreshing the '94 motor. If compression is low and the '94 engine has relatively low miles and had reasonably good maintenance, the problem will probably be in the cylinder head (punky or burnt valves, and/or worn valve guides, hardened valve guide seals, etc.). Unless there's a lot of cylinder wall scoring, Mopar blocks and piston rings seldom wear enough to represent a significant loss of cylinder pressure (compression). I've seen 318 and 360 motors with 150,000 miles on them that after a head refreshing registered the full service spec. compression. Of course, it all depends on how the motor was treated.

    I'd also check the catalytic converter. After a lot of miles, and especially if the motor wasn't running great for a while, the converters start to clog and cause a serious performance problem.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If the RPM drop is approximately 150 RPM, what you are probably feeling is the torque converter unlocking. This could be caused by a number of things not necessarily connected to the torque converter or the transmission. Possibilities are:

    *Engine out of tune (worn or misfiring spark plugs, bad plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.), dragging brakes, dirty throttlebody, vacuum leak, bad PCV valve.

    *Defective Throttle Position Sensor

    *Throttle Position Valve cable out of adjustment. Throttle linkage sticking or binding. Throttle Position Pivot (at transmission) sticking or binding.

    You say that you lose power when this happens. If this is an erratic thing, I don't think you've got a catalytic converter problem. If, however, you are pressing on the accelerator pedal and it seems to gradually go slower and the transmission is not slipping, you could have a partially clogged catalytic converter that is beginning to overheat, among other things.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rumzrumz Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, for the info i have had it to 3 different dealers and they said it has nothing wrong with it. But it feels like im pulling something but im not, i cant even spin my tires. If i have my cruise set it does it more but it also does it when i hit a bump in the road. I also have the same spark plug that keeps on fouling out it is the one on the drivers side in the back , I herd from about 10 people it was my cat but i will look into what you said thanks
  • paintballfanxxpaintballfanxx Member Posts: 4
    Check the throttle positioning sensor. If that is not that try a crankshaft sensor. I have the same problem with my 92 dakota.
  • paintballfanxxpaintballfanxx Member Posts: 4
    My 92 dakota is doing the same thing I had changed the temp. sensor first because it was cheaper than the crank sensor. But that did not work so i am buying the 50 dollar crank sensor and going to put it in.
  • paintballfanxxpaintballfanxx Member Posts: 4
    My 1992 dodge Dakota is a v6 3.9 liter and all of a sudden all the oil drained into the pistons and was burnt up. My question is where in the cylinder heads underneath the valve cover where are the oil drain holes in this motor? Can someone help me please?!!
  • factman1factman1 Member Posts: 4
    I keep posting, but do not see a the posting or response. I've replaced lots of parts. i.e. plugs, plug wires, cam position sensor twice, fuel pump, crank sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump, etc. Tried another computer, lots of dry gas, fixed leaky vacuum hoses, new distributor and pick up inside twice. I'm probably forgetting some items. Truck runs like a dream when it is warm outside and for 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold. After the 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold it bucks violently and misfires for miles upon miles. I'm going to try a PCV valve tomorrow and check those hoses, but realistically, I feel like I'm grasping at straws and spending alot of money on nothing that helps. A 99 van has the same problem and Chrysler wants to throw a new wiring harness in! Yeah likes that's going to solve the problem! I have 155,000 miles on the 5 speed and love it when it is warm outside, but it is useless during the winter. Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going broke and still don't have a reliable vehicle! Thanks!
  • chineseguychineseguy Member Posts: 8
  • chineseguychineseguy Member Posts: 8
    I brohght a used 05 dakota, v8 4.7 2X4 with 180000km, the truck run great so far 82L gas tank can least about 450km, but starting couple month ago, full tank of gas only least about 300km, I live in northern area, winter need warm up the car before toke off on the road, but it still should not be that much of different, any one have idea is some thing go wrong with the truck or just the way to go.
    Thanks.
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    MAF sensor, Just changed one this weekend and it was doing the same thing. hope it helps..
  • factman1factman1 Member Posts: 4
    There does not appear to be a MAF on my truck. Unless we are not looking in the right place. Thanks.
  • rich14rich14 Member Posts: 15
    That sound like the correct idle if you are going by the in dash tachometer. They aren't terrible accurate. The idle is suppose to be around 850 to 900 rpms. If there are no codes it will be a tough one to find.

    Any of these could be the problem.

    AIR FILTER Restricted or clogged air filter.

    FUEL FILTER <>Clogged or dirty fuel filter

    WIRESET Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s).

    SPARK PLUG Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s).

    PCV VALVE Plugged or damaged pcv valve.

    DISTRIBUTOR CAP Loose or cracked distributor cap

    AIR CHARGE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air charge sensor or air charge sensor circuit.

    AIR CLEANER TEMPERATURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air cleaner temperature sensor or air cleaner temperature sensor circuit.

    BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty barometric pressure sensor or barometric pressure sensor circuit.

    FUEL INJECTOR COLD START VALVE Faulty cold start valve or circuit.

    FUEL INJECTOR PRESSURE REGULATOR Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit.

    FUEL INJECTION GSK <>Deteriorated, or faulty throttle valve mounting gasket

    IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE Damaged, loose, or faulty idle air control valve.

    IDLE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR <>Damaged, loose, or faulty idle speed actuator.

    MAP SENSOR <>Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor.

    MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor.

    THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit.

    TIMING SET <>Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s).

    FUEL PUMP Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits.

    FUEL TANK Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank.

    FUEL INJECTOR Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector.

    EGR VALVE Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve.

    DISTRIBUTOR Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor.

    CAMSHAFT <>Worn or scored camshaft lobes may affect proper fuel intake, compression, combustion and exhaust.

    I would start with the PVC valve and EGR valve and circuit.

    Hope this helps, an accept would be appreciated.
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
    I have a '97 Dakota V8 Magnum 318 5.2l. My problem is my oil pressure dropped after sitting without being driven for 2 mos. it doesn't move at all just sits on 0. I have replaced my sending unit and the oil pump...still the prob continues the engine has 203k mi on it so its not too bad, i use high mileage 10w30 castrol and bosch oil filter. in the engine compartment i could here a noise so i checked the lifters and they seem fine none broken or clogged but i'm beating myself up here trying to figure out what it could be. the noise continues as if the push rods and rocker arms aren't getting any oil. the higher the RPMs the louder and faster the noise. Please Help!!!!
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
    I have a '97 Dakota with 203k mi. Its a V8 Mag 318 5.2l. My prob. is this, I left it sitting for about two mos. and upon turnng it on it was fine after driving for 5 min. the oil pressure dropped and hasn't moved since, that was two weeks ago. I have replaced the sending unit and the pump since then but still nothing. It sounded like my lifters were bad from the engine noise so i checked them out and everthing under the hood seems fine excdept a little sludge from before i got it. i'm close to sending it to the scrap yard if i cant get anything to work. would a motor flush make a diff?
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    well im in a rut changed my oil in my 94 dodge dakota but wheni drove her the oil pic came on and pressure dropped to nothing kept driving then it went off{light} and pressure came back some say its me oil pump going out well was out of town and light came on and pressure dropped was hoping for it to come back on to make it home but all of a sudden ticking time bomb had i just burned up my motor and can someone tell me where is the oil pump located i will replace it i already did the water pump i can even hear my tail pip spitting had to leave the truck at a friends when the moter is shot is it supposed to lock up and quit i need my truck :sick: :mad:
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
    Unfortunately when there is no lubrication in the engine it will lock up after awhile, its a precautionary thing so the enine doesn't blow. A little more bad news is if it has locked up it will need to be taken apart to remove the bearings from the oil drain, quite costly unless u can do it yourself in which case u will need an entirely new gasket set. well i still have the prob. but maybe what i tried could help u. The pump could be in 2 places, first it could be located in the oil pan...a pain to remove, but once the pan is removed you should be able to see the pick up tube hanging off the pump. Two... the pump could be belt driven not the serpentine belt but timing chain in which case you have to remove the timing chain cover and the chain itself, this is even worse cause during installation you have to make sure the timing is correct otherwise the truck will not turn on or will seem like its misfiring. there are specialty tool ie: a timing light that you can rent from your local parts store fairly cheap but even if its not once returned you get a full refund. hope this helps good luck.
  • hawaiipuphawaiipup Member Posts: 28
    thanks luckly it didnt lock up i parked it and will tow to a friends house they said they would do it for me so they must know where it is someone told me it was in the oil pan so guess im lucky again thanks for responding hope its just the pump :)
  • srscubalotsrscubalot Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Dakota 3.9L / 44RE auto transmission with 80K miles has been suffering from poor performance and fuel milage (13 mpg city / 17 mpg highway) now for over a year. There are no check engine codes coming up. The truck is very sluggish when under load such as pulling hills or accelerating at cruising speeds. The colder the ambient temp is the better the performance, but as the engine warms up the performance worsens. When the ambient temp is hot the performance is poor and gets worse as the engine warms up. As I said there are no codes coming up. I have twice given the engine a tune up consisting of spark plugs, distributor cap / rotor, new plug wires, air filter, PCV valve. I checked the ignition timing and it is dead on. I have also replaced the entire exhaust system including Cat. Conv. and O2 sensors. I have also replaced the TPS sensor. None of the above has made any differance at all in the performance. I have had it to two different Dodge dealers and both told me it needed a tune up. I am assuming it is one of the sensors or possibly a faulty ECM computer. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Mike Howard
  • paparandapaparanda Member Posts: 6
    This may be coming too late but when it comes to fuel consumption usually a tune-up does the trick but when it doesn't you should try a fuel injector cleaner(one could be clogged) or the fuel filter in which case you would have to replace the entire fuel pump from inside the tank. hopefully this solves your problem. Good luck
  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    This applies to the '97 Dakota Sport (2WD/3.9L)

    I recently noticed that power steering fluid is leaking and running along the line sheathed w/ the slit corrugated cover (the other line is bare). I presume this is the outlet line from the pump, which I think lies just beneath the reservoir.

    I have also been getting a Check Engine (haven't pulled the code).

    I wonder if anyone has seen this. Is it likely the seal at the pump where the outlet line connects? Or is it more likely the seal where the reservoir attaches?

    In searching this site, I see posts #227 & 228 that allude to the power steering pressure switch (which may be located under the reservoir). These posts also suggest a connection with the O2 sensor. I bring this up because the other day, my truck - w/o warning - began to wildly lose power for a brief spell. This now makes me wonder if there's a connection.

    Any thoughts or experience w/ this are appreciated.
  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    I now know that the leak is caused by a suspicious "pin prick" hole in the pressurized line about 2" from the lower fitting (steering knuckle side). When the front wheels are steered, a tiny geyser appears.

    Recall that this line is covered by a slit, corrugated plastic sheath for protection. What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes?

    I think I know the answer but thought I'd put the question out there ...
    :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes? "

    Chances are low... But there is no such thing as a perfect machine. Unless you have good reason to consider anything else, you have to assume it is simply a natural failure.
  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    BPeebles is probably right - I'm willing to accept that the leak in the pressurized p/s line is a "normal" failure. I've also heard other anecdotal experience of the same kind: this line does develop leaks. The good news is that AutoZone had a new hose ("Duralast" brand) - lifetime warranty - for $17.99. I'll replace the line today.

    Now let's turn to the Check Engine message I mentioned. I pulled the code and it's P0132 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage). Sensor 1 & 2 on Bank 1 read "1000V @0% S.T. fuel trim". This strikes me as a possible short.

    Again I refer back to posts 227 & 228 on this forum, which point to the possibility that the p/s line leak (a mini geyser at times) may have put fluid on the O2 sensors (which I suspect are in that region of the engine area).

    I had only one instance of a real sloppy power failure in the last 2 weeks and it seemed to have "recovered". If this theory is valid, I wonder if it's fair to assume the the fluid wetted O2 sensors will "dry out" and eventually go back to normal.

    :(
  • goose1956goose1956 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2000 dakota, V-6, 315000 miles, overheating, checked coolant, flushed, recently change water pump, head gaskets do not appear leaking by checking rear exhaust. I was told check timing, could this be it, any other suggestions beside a different pickup.
  • wrestlingref21wrestlingref21 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a question regarding my 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8, with 117,000 miles. A couple of months ago, I noticed while having my cruise control set at 60 mph and my rpm setting at 2, that the engine would "surge" just above 2 after going over a slight "rise" in the road (not during) and then go back to 2 on the rpm display. After slowing down and re-activating the cruise control at around 50-55 mph, I would notice as the stick arrived at 60 mph, the engine would give a quick surge slightly above 2 and go back to 2. I added STP Fuel Injector cleaner on three occasions, and it seemed to help temporarily, but it is back and occurs more frequently, even when not going over any rise in the road.

    Additionally, about a month ago I noticed that when I would start my truck up in the morning, it would surge while idle then come back down, then surge again, and so on.

    Could these two issues be related and what should I be looking at? I was looking online a little, and one suggestion was made regarding the idle surge as it relates to the IAC valve. Any help would be much appreciated!
  • bone5bone5 Member Posts: 5
  • bone5bone5 Member Posts: 5
    2000 dodge dakota quad cab 4.7 engine roars when started up and roars for a couple of miles down the road. It sounds normal after about 2 miles down the road. It seems worse in the winter. What could be the cause of this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Totally normal.... You are hearing the roar of the thermostatic engine-fan. The thermostatic fan takes awhile to disenguage. As I recall, it is the very worst right around 40F.

    You can reduce the time it takes to disenguage by gently reving the engine for 30 seconds or so before putting into gear and driving....but why waste the gasoline?

    Technical details: Silicone fluid withn the thermostatic-coupling is 'stiff' and takes awhile to get thrown to the outer-edges by centripital force.

    BTW: If you had use the "search" feature, you would have found several discussions about this since the 4.7L engine was put into the Dak in 2000. Many people mistakenly think that their automatic-xmission is "slipping" when cold.... as least you did not make that assumption.
  • seleneselene Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1993 dodge dakota with a 3.9 liter v-6. The check engine light is
    on. I turn the key 4 times to get the trouble codes. The codes I have gotten
    are 22, 23, and 45. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor, the throttle
    position sensor, the intake ambient air temperature sensor, the Oxygen
    sensor, the pcv valve , and the air intake filter. The engine is hard to
    start. After the engine is hot and I kill the engine, trying to restart is
    hit and miss. Sometimes it will start right up and other times it won't.
    Then it will act as if it is flooded. It won't idle. I rev the engine a
    little and the rpm's will finally kick up to around 1500. Then the engine
    will run smooth. The codes I get now are 45 and 22. I can't understand what
    is going on. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Also, is the heater/AC blower resistor located in the engine compartment on the R/H firewall on a '93 Dakota? Thanks.
  • scheelerscheeler Member Posts: 1
    I have the same pickup, the same problem started a few weeks ago for me. I have had it into the shop twice now and they can't find anything wrong with it, seems to cure itself each time I've brought it in. My next call will be the dealer I bought it from even though I have to drive 75 miles, hopefully they will recognize the problem, they are a Dodge dealer. From reading other info online I might try replacing the throttle body sensor before running to the dealer. Good luck!
  • merton1merton1 Member Posts: 1
    will a 96 dakota engine go in a 87 dakota? if so how tough would it be ? any help much appreciated
  • thepj1thepj1 Member Posts: 2
  • thepj1thepj1 Member Posts: 2
    I read through these boards before posting, but i didnt find an answer to my problem, I have a 97 dakota sport, 3.9 auto, 2wheel drive. A few weeks ago it started dropping RPMs and losing power while driving, warm or cold it didnt matter. Would also happen stopped at a light as well. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and when that didnt do it i replaced the map sensor. Worked great for 3 days, then it seemed like once the engine was heated up it was fine, but that only lasted for like 2 days. Now its just random, i could drive to work and home, then go out later and it could die, the rpms just drop, theres a low backfire sound, more like a putt, then a backfire. sometimes it stays running, sometimes not. Ive looked for bad ground connections. Visually checked for any kind of vacuum leak. The O2 sensors were replaced 2 years ago. It has a exhaust leak somewhere near the engine but i didnt think it was major enough to cause anything like this. Any help on tracking down whats doing it would be great. thanks
  • evanscnevanscn Member Posts: 1
    1996 Dakota SLT, 5.2l V8, automatic, 2WD. Engine has been sluggish the last few months, gas mileage down, auto trans wants to quickly shift through gears up to 4th and lock converter.
    No MIL light. Scanned with 2 different scan tools and found only pending misfire DTCs. However, several of the sensor outputs as read through the PCM look strange. Have factory service manual and ran diagnostics on MAP sensor, TPS, ... The sensor output voltages look correct (MAP output Vdc vs manifold pressure). Example,engine OFF, manifold pressure 29.8 in. Hg, MAP output voltage 4.5 Vdc (OK), but PCM says manifold pressure is 9.0 in. Hg (via scan tool). Same problem w/ engine idleing (true pressure 11 in. Hg, PCM says 2 in. Hg). TPS also way off (PCM says 73% open when WOT). Long term fuel trim (7%) indicates some lean mix. Reset PCM by disconnecting power for 15 min. No improvement in MAP or TPS reading. Trans not shifting up as fast - better.
    Checked sensor voltages at sensors and at plugs into PCM. No differences. Also checked all splices in sensor lines (5Vdc, sensor output, sensor gnd), all OK.
    Question: It sounds like the part of the PCM that reads the sensor voltages (analog-to-digital converter circuit) isn't working right. Anyone else have these kinds of symptoms? Can PCM partially degrade like this? Thanks
  • halgrimhalgrim Member Posts: 2
  • halgrimhalgrim Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota 4x4 V8. 103,500 miles. Low miles for such an aged vehicle.

    Recently, the engine has been sputtering at 2000 RPMs and losing power, and when I punch the accelerator to maintain power I get an occasional POP. From time to time, the Check Engine light comes on at the same time that the loss of power is experienced. As I said when I lose power the engine does tend to sputter. Eventually the engine does recover for a time.

    At low idle, the Oil Pressure gauge drops to low left and the Oil Pressure light comes on. Dipstick shows that I am burning oil, however I check and maintain the oil level religiously and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

    I've noticed that Dodge trucks seem to have this low oil pressure problem. However, the loss of power seems to be something much more sinister.

    Anyone have some insight before I drop 3 grand at the dealer?
  • header1974header1974 Member Posts: 10
    recently replaced the TPS as I was having surge problems when cruise control or sometimes just throttle engaged manually around 45-50 miles per hour. Would surge with rpms and then return to normal. After replacing TPS got engine trouble codes P0122 and P0123 stating has TP sensor circuit is low input and high input. I am just getting codes from my on board trouble code not using specialized scan tool. Two questions one can the TPS be put in wrong? Does the PCM have to be reset by using the specialized scan tool and will this correct the trouble codes. I did take the truck out for spin and notice My cruise control does not work now? Any suggestions? thanks Header1974
  • header1974header1974 Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone know once you replace the TPS Throttle Positioning Sensor how do you reset PCM and eliminate the trouble codes. After changing the TPS I still get P1022 naP1023 codes with onboard computer? Does it have to be reset by dealer to know if new TPS is working? Will this effect the cruise control? thanks for any help you can provide Header1974
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    "reset"ing will not stop active codes from happening.

    Once you have corrected the problem with the TPS... the codes should "reset" themselves because the problem is no longer happening.

    You *could* disconect the battery for 15-20 minutes to perform a total system "reset"... but your onboard computer would have to relearn all of your driving-habits under various situations/conditions.... this could take weeks. (And again.... would most likely NOT correct the TPS problem)

    I beleive the above answers your question(s)... but you should really be asking "Why am I getting these TPS codes"... alas - you did not ask that question.
  • header1974header1974 Member Posts: 10
    It was the TPS when I used a voltage meter found flat spot in old TPS probably causing issues with the rpms going up suddenly in spurts when speed was between 45-50 mph. I had taken truck to transmission place that could not detect any increase in rpms so was intermetent issue. Wanted to eliminate what appeared to be transmission issue. Thats why I tried the TPS suggestion from one of the other members. It worked I disconnected battery to clear codes and everything is running great. Not sure what you meant about computer relearning driving habits under various situations/conditions. I never did orginally have any codes they appeared after I replaced TPS and maybe installed wrong first time. Reinstalled and codes still appeared but once disconnected battery and reconnected works awesome. thanks Header1974
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles