Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Another possibilty is the the oilpump is starting to fail at very low engine speeds. One test for this is to put a can of "STP oil treatment" in the crankcase and see if the problem goes away. (STP oil treatment is a viscosity improver... makes oil 'thicker' so it is easier for oilpump to maintain pressure.)
Let us know how that works out for you.
Regards,
Omen
This is my first post on this site and was looking for some assistance on check engine code P0138 for an '03 Dakota SXT 5-speed 3.9L. The light comes and goes every few weeks. I have checked the usual oil, fluids, hoses, etc. Called the dealership to get the info but they say they don't even have a book that has the P codes. They just have the computer that gives the problem. Am trying to save a few bucks if its something I can replace myself.
Thanks,
Dan O
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/99-01trk.shtml
Ron
I know that "sensor 2" is the O2 sensor AFTER the precat.
(SURPRIZE -- you have 3 catalytic converters 8-)
Omen
The temperature guage reads low except when my son forgets to plug the fan in and then it reads high.
My first thought is a coolant temperature sensor problem but I'm not sure as it never seems to "reset" - could the sensor be shorted out and that be what's causing it to run continously?
Any help would be appreciated.
Duane
My thought is that if it is the "steering knuckle" as I was told, I should look to see if Dodge beefed it up in later model years and take them to task for my problem.
As for the window, I bought an ice scrapper from autozone and it scratched the windshield, but didn't scratch any of the other windows or the windshield of other cars/trucks I tested.
Anyone that can help me thank you so much
Mike
Anyone that can help me thank you so much
Mike
By federal law, there is a sticker somwhere under the hood that depicts the routing of all the hoses. You may be able to determine where this is supposed to be connected using this sticker as a guide.
I am thinking what you found is part of the PCV system. (Positive Crankcase Ventalation) The PCV system maintins a slight vacuum within the crankcase to continously suck out fumes and feed them under the carberator into the intake plenum so they are burned in the engine.
The hoses leading from the PCV valve to the intake plenum are KNOWN to desinagrate due to all of the noxous fumes which travel in them. That is why they MUST be replaced with hoses rated for use on PCV systems. (ordanary hoses would not last very long at all)
As a check, you can pull out your PCV valve and check it to have a strong vacuum on it at idle. If no vacuum, then you KNOW what you found is related.
I have a 1987 dodge dakota 3.9 litre 5 speed and I have noticed that I am only getting at the most 10 mpg. Also I noticed that every time I start it up the gas gauge is lower than where I shut it off. When I start it up the exhaust is just black. Does anyone know of any common problem that would cause this or anything to help.
THANKS
Try this, when the inside fan is blowing on high and controls set to full heat.... gently feel the temparature of the hose LEAVING the heatercore. (easilly accessable under the hood)
If that hose is HOT... then the antifreeze is FLOWING... but heat is not being removed from it. Suspect inoperable flapper under the dash or perhaps a partially-plugged heatercore.
If hose is NOT as hot as the hose feeding into the heatercore... then there is a problem with FLOW. (or perhaps air-pockets in the system)
me he thought it was in the oil pan? the truck has really good oil pressure and doesn't use any in the 3000 mile change Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Dusty
THe 3.9 is an exceptionally strong little V-6 design and over the years I've only seen one actually have a serious problem...and that was the fault of the owner. They most certainly don't have a reputation for connecting rod or main bearing failure, which I think is the implication when a noise is emanating from the oil pan area.
Because your not hearing this noise when the engine is cold it could mean that you have a connecting rod bearing that is worn or has been damaged. However, excessive piston wear or a bad wrist pin can also produce a knock that sometimes appears to be coming from the oil pan.
My recommendation is to get a stethiscope (sp?) and try to pin-point where the noise is comming from. Valve train components or a worn camshaft lobe can cause a knocking sound. I have seen two 3.9s with a bad timing chain and after dissassembly I noticed that the chain had been hitting the inside of the timing chain cover. They had a "knocking" sound, too. Don't forget accessory drive components, such as belts, pulleys, air conditioner pump, water pump, etc.
I have also witnessed a few Dodge truck motors that had a knock caused by a stuck bypass valve in the oil filter. In these cases there was a noticeable drop in oil pressure after the engine came to operating temperature.
What kind of motor oil have you been using?
Best regards,
Dusty
Next issue. Engine is still bucking and backfiring and it downright refuses to go sometimes. Check engine light keeps coming on and code is for loose gas cap. I have done complete tune-up, all belts, 3 new gas caps, TPS, all to no avail. I just noticed the other day that my fuel filler pipe has a rust hole in it. Could this be causing the issue? I have heard someone mention that the problem could be due to a bad intake manfold gasket. Is this true? Is it a BIG job, as I do my own work usually. I am ready to bury this thing if I dont figure it out soon. I cant even trade it in running like this. Please help.
Thanks
Deb
The symptoms you describe are typical for a bad intake manifold gasket and it was a problem on the earlier Magnum engines. I can't say I've seen or heard or a 2000 with this problem and i though Chrysler had that fixed by then. Of course, those very same symptoms can be caused by other things, like weak fuel supply or weak fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, a dirty throttle body, vacuum leaks from any number of rubber hoses, a weak ignition coil, bad spark plugs, etc.
If you have a hole in your fuel filler tube you will definitely get a P0465 or P0456 code for sure.
Regards,
Dusty
For model-year 2000 the Dakota got a brand-new front end design. It replaced the old steering-box-with a rack-n-pinion. The 4.7L V8 "semi-hemi" engine also had a brand-new design PS pump.
For model-year 2001, the specified fluid for this system changed to SYNTHETIC PS fluid. I suspect that Dodge discovered that "normal" PS fluid was not sufficent. Dodge changed the spec for the 2001 Daks to be ATF+4 (synthetic ATF fluid)
Personally, in my 2000, my steering was VERY stiff anytime the ambient temparture was below minus 5F. I tried several different PS fluids and most of them were troublesome.
I now run "RedLine power steering fluid" which is 100% PAO esters. (the very best synthetic lube that man can make) Since switching, I have NEVER had any issues with stiff steering no matter what the ambient temparture is.
What do you mean when you say you have "zero compression".... did you actually check the compression with a compression tester and ALL eight cylinders read zero? I simply cannot beleive it.
When was the last time you cleaned your IAC and checked your TPS? (I clean my IAC at least once a year.)
Also, a PCV valve stuck open would cause the symptoms you describe
definitions;
IAC = Idle Air Controller
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventalation
Any assistance anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
Here are my thoughts:
1. Problems with valves and lifters
2. Exhaust leaks
3. Computer needs an update
4. Compressor actually improves engine performance
5. More transmission problems than I realize
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!
SPECIAL NOTE: I have been using Bosch Platinum plugs before and after the MPG problem..they work fine. The split type give better economy and the single type more power.
Regards,
Dusty