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Who did the work?
Did they properly clean and lubricate the pins?
What kind of pads did they use (i.e. semi-metallic, organic, ceramic)?
Did the pads have anti-squeal backings on them?
What were the conditions of the boots and the mini bushings/grommets that the pins slide through?
Have you gotten your van fixed yet? If so let me know what was found out. I like and would like to keep my van (still paying on it, too). Thanks to you or others monitoring this Forum.
good luck with your van
Some time ago it began with a clicking sound from somewere out front
whenever I touch the brakepedal. Even if it is done ever so gently!!
The braking doesn't seem to be affected.But it is quite annoying.
And something isn't right.
Any suggestions?
Best regards, 727
Sorry it took me so long to reply to you question.. NO I have not found a fix for my brake problem. The transmission broke big time in may and the car is now parked in the driveway. I think the junk yard is next stop.
I replaced the 97 caravan with a 2008 Toyota Sienna.. Hope the brakes work better on this van....
diydodge
At the 115,000 mile mark I took the advice from a guy on another board that had switched to cross-drilled rotors and gotten good life out of them. Good thing I did. Why? Well, now with 168,000 miles on the van, the pads have about 3/8" of lining still intact and the rotors are just now starting to warp a bit causing a very minor pulsation in the brake pedal. I'll probably milk another 10,000 miles out of the and replace them with the exact same components.
Best regards,
Shipo
Maybe it has more to do with the frequency of repeated braking, rather than individual applications.
I always tighten mine with the lug wrench, by hand, by feel. I'm fairly consistent, and would estimate them to be at 90-95 ft lbs. A torque wrench would remove the estimation factor, if you choose to invest in one. I have never had a problem with discs on any vehicle I have owned, and never have I replaced a set of discs on any vehicle. My Subaru Outback went 220,000 on the original discs and I replaced the front pads at 144,000 miles, rears at 192,000. So, I dunno about 11-17,000, but that seems nuts to me for pads, let alone discs! I would think discs should last at least 50,000 miles, absent any extenuating circumstances. Again, it is likely to be highly dependent upon conditions, though.
You know your service history - if something suddenly seems awry to you, it probably is.
This would eliminate the possibility of a blockage inside the cylinder.
If there is junk in the line(unlikely), it will probably pass through this way.
I would try this to see if the pedal responds better.
If it does, try a new cylinder.
This would eliminate the problem at the cylinder if nothing changes.
You would them move up the line towards the master cylinder looking for possible kinks or smash points.
Cheers
Dean
Perhaps Dodge does theirs differently, though.
Replaced the Front Pads and Rotors on our 1996 Dodge Caravan 3-weeks ago. When I test-drove the vehicle everything was fine.
My wife used the van on short errand trip around town for a week and found the brakes to be working fine. The van was not used for a few days and when I went to drive it the wheels felt like they were locked. I felt the brakes were FIRM to the touch and it was sticking both in forward and reverse. I didn't have time to figure it our that day so I used another vehicle.
I checked it a few days later and the van seemed to roll normally so I took it for a short test drive of 1-2 KM and then stopping - I could smell hot brakes outside the vehicle. The front-drivers wheel was warm/hot to the touch.
I drove home and raised the front end. With the engine running and the transmission in Drive the front-drivers wheel would not turn and the front-passengers wheel turned freely.
I raised the rear and found the rear-passenger wheel was also LOCKED and the rear-drivers wheel turned freely.
I can't figure out why the BRAKING CIRCUIT for the affected front-drivers wheel and rear-passenger wheel is maintaining/creating pressure, which is preventing the wheels from turning freely.
There are no “Warning Lights On” on the dash.
The situation has escalated to the point where the van can’t be driven at all. To move the van from my driveway into the garage I had to release the Bleeder Screw on the Front Caliper slightly and this allowed me to drive the van into the garage.
The front calipers are retracted normally – and the rotor turns when you bleed the caliper and locks when you close the bleeder screw.
The fluid level in the master cylinder is also at the correct level.
:confuse: I have bleed the brakes with a vacuum pump according to the manual – But the manual also states that for a proper bleed the van should be taken to the dealer with a DRB scan tool. Is that true for this Make/Model?
Below is a list of what I have tried to see if it would correct the problem, but saw no change:
1. Bleed the brakes (twice) according to the repair manual with no change.
2. Replaced the Brake Hose on Front Drivers Side – Again no change, then Bleed the Front Drivers Caliper – Wheel remained locked.
3. Pulled the ABS relay out, as well as the 40AMP – ABS fuse trying to deactivated the ABS System to see if that would make any changes – No Change
4. Rechecked calipers and pistons and they are moving freely no binding no sticking.
5. Pins & sliders have been cleaned up & lubed.
Have spoken to a few mechanics this week and they have had no new ideas as to the cause of the problem.
Could the ABS be causing this problem? The front-driver and rear-passenger is the Braking Circuit that is affected.
I’m truly stumped by this problem and am at a loss as to what is going on. Any ideas as to what I am missing :confuse:
Thanks for the help in advance.
pphillips700: Once the calipers are off, the rotors should be removable easily barring any corrosion. There is a factory clip on one of the studs that may catch, but the removal itself is easy.
Checked the fuses; everything is o.k.?
suggestions?
Steve, visiting host
Thanks Bill
Any luck?
Done all the basics, line-bleeding, cleaning proportioning valves, etc. Even put a new brake vacume booster on. No effect.
Disconnected the abs fuse and it still did it.
Is it the ABS Hydraulic Unit?? They are quite pricey.
We can't find anyone else who has had this problem.
Any ideas?
C.B.
Anyway, let me know if that fixes it. Very curious to find out. Our problem had a whole lot of folks stumped.
Thanks for your help!!
George
Thanks.
Bill
.
Thanks,
George