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Comments
This is my second new Mazda in the last few years and I have yet to experience my first problem with either car, (both Mazda 6's, 04 and 09). The 09 actually gets better mileage than the 04, despite having 70+ hp. Don't pass up the 6 cyl because of fuel mileage.
I don't need the EPA to figure things out for me.They just got on board the global warming bandwagon calling greenhouse gases a health problem. They're talking about water vapor. Isn't that the exhaust of a hydrogen powered car? They have no more credibility than the Nobel Prize Committee.
I guess I'd have to say that my gas mileage sucks on my 2007 Mazda6, 4 cyl. Commuting to and from work, it gets only a "couple" mpg's more than my old V6 minivan got.
I thought this was about Mazda's. They make solid cars but none with H power.
LOL. Which one? 2.3L Turbo? Please check CX-7 forums:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1826a6!make=Mazda&model=CX-7&ed_m- akeindex=.f1826a6
At our dealership, we have a engineer from Japan looking at a 2009 Mazda6 w/ 6-speed manual to look at this problem as well. The owner also thinks there might have been some sort of misfire, but, the computer has stored no such information. He is also transmitting the info back to Japan for analysis.
I will keep you posted as to what he finds....
Bob
I noticed you had a meeting with the district service rep a couple weeks ago. What was the outcome of that?
Where are you located?
It looks like Mazda will be replacing a wiring harness and throttle on the Mazda6 with the hesitation issues. The engineer said this will solve the problem. I hope that helps!
I've found some used aftermarket 16 inch alloys, but want to make sure they are wide enough for calipers etc and have proper offset, hub bore etc. I cannot find anything about that for the 16 inch wheels for this car in my owners manual, mazda's site etc. I know the lug pattern is 5 x 114.3 but what width 16 inch wheel should I buy to clear everything ( I'm presuming at least 6.5 if not 7 inch but want to be sure), what is the hub bore and what offset would I get. I believe the winter tires that tirerack.com suggested were 205.65/16.?
Thanks Chris
As a couple people have mentioned already, there is a distinct clanking from the brakes at low speeds. Service denies hearing this.
There are small, but annoying little rattles and squeaks from various trim pieces. Not the kind you might hear when a car ages and integrity becomes compromised. Just pieces rattling and rubbing together, which can be particularly upsetting considering it's a new car.
The windows make obnoxious rattling noises when opened and going over bumps. Service denies hearing it.
There is the high-ish pitched whine/squeal coming from the engine bay, which has also been mentioned. Someone also mentioned that there is a service bulletin for this? Thus far my service denies hearing this.
Gas mileage can be described as being miserable. Of course, a large part of this can be attributed to my driving style. I drive in the city and vicinity. My mileage ranges from 16-20 mpg, usually landing in the 17.5-18 window. Winter gas noticeably affects the numbers, by the way.
18" rims are brittle. Not just in terms of the ride quality they provide, but also their actual construction. I've dented 3 of them, although Chicago potholes may be more severe than the norm.
But, that's just a list of complaints. Otherwise, I'm okay with the car. It's pretty compared to its competition. And it's relatively fun to drive. It's been reliable other than an AC/radiator fuse failure. And with the old service manager fired, maybe these smaller issues will finally be addressed.
For anyone considering the V6, the cost of ownership is really quite high (and validated by Consumer Reports). Although I don't regret choosing the Mazda6 over the Accord, Camry, or Altima, I do regret dropping pursuit of the 335, G37, and IS350. My intention was to save money over the BMW, Infiniti, or Lexus. But, the savings will be so small.
It sounds like you bought yours shortly after the '09 hit the market. Early production, first-year models usually have some relatively minor (and sometimes rather major) issues. Back in late 1997, I bought a '98 Accord EX that was built in the first two weeks of the new model production. It had numerous 'minor' problems (most of them squeaks, rattles and other annoying noises) that afflicted the car for the three years I owned it. The worst was a creaking noise every time I sat down in the driver's seat and when I shifted my weight in the seat...it was maddening! I finally got a new driver's seat and a few squeaks fixed, but it wasn't even in the same league as my sister's '99 Accord (solid as a bank vault)....
About the fragile wheels- low sidewall (low profile) tires definitely have some benefits in the handling and looks departments. But they also provide very little space to cushion a blow from a sharp pothole and the like. If the tire takes a hard hit, the damage often extends to the alloy wheel! In the four years I've owned it, I've replaced a total of three 17" alloys and two of my current ones have superficial damage, courtesy of Atlanta potholes! I destroyed two P205/50R17 tires along with two of those alloys I replaced....NOT worth it!
It's funny, their first thoughts were maybe I had a plastic bag stuck to the muffler. I pointed out the obvious, to me, that the car had been sitting for 3 hours while the smell got worse and the seat heaters on both seats didn't appear to be working.
This was at 4:00 and I asked about a loaner. I didn't realize that Mazda had quit doing the loaner program. They told me that after they did a diagnosis on the car they would probably be able to let me use one of their cars. I've purchased 5 Mazda from them before and my salesman let take a used Miata home for the night. It may sound like I'm griping about the dealership, but I'm not. Just frustrated that this car only has 5,200 miles on it and this is the most major thing that I've had go wrong in 15 years.
I'm sure that they will get the problem fixed. However, I think it's going to be quite a few days before I get my car back. Other than this seat problem, I haven't had anything else go wrong. I usually get 19.5 to 20 mpgs in town, V6, with this mostly being in city commuting. The Miata is fun to drive, but I don't think I'd like it for an everyday driver.
FWIW, I use option 3 with my iphone rather than getting the dock and have been pretty happy about it.
"
When using this option do you control the ipod through the Source -> IPOD (not sure if you have Nav package)?
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and if it could be a design issue. BTW, I was told that I have about 80% left on the rear brakes.
Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
It is the not clicking noise of the injectors that you can clearly hear. It is a subtle faint background knock like 2 marbles rolling in a tin can.
This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
Thanks for the help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
Also i feel the 2.5L mazda 6 has no acceleration at all. Drove my dad's 4 cylinder camry and felt the camry was much faster, lighter and responsive when stepping on the gas pedal. Not sure if this is due to the 6 being a heavier car or not. Either way the high idle of the engine when starting up is annoying since the whole car shakes if you put it in reverse right away after starting. anyone else having this problem?
Synthetic is better (After the break in period is over), but Mazda as a company sucks. I bought synthetic oil and tried to get my mazda dealer mechanic to put it in instead of the regular oil, and he said it might void my warranty, and that if he puts in synthetic he will enter the information into their computer system where they store the maintenance records, and it might affect any future warranty claim.
Basically they are being real idiots. First and last Mazda for me. Although I really like the car. I have switched my dealer since where I service my car, but I am not going to push the synthetic issue again. I will settle for the 5w20 oil till warranty runs out.
Also I noticed on the newer mazda6 model I saw at this years autoshow, looks like they replaced the oil filter (Cap system) with a normal twist on filter system. That is one thing I disliked about this car, so I will check with the new dealer if they can retrofit last years 2.5L with the new twist on filter adapter.
Sounds more like the dealer that "sucks". My local dealer allows one to bring in their own oil, as long as it's 5w-20 and it meets the minimum grades that Mazda specifies (which just about all quality oil does), synthetic as well.
I'm sticking with dealer oil until the warranty runs out too.
2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
But from what I understand synthetic doesn't help a 'regular' engine one-bit. It doesn't last longer and doesn't protect better unless the engine 'needs' it...like a turbo, high compression etc. Akin to using high octane gas on a vehicle that calls for regular.
I've also heard the suggestion of waiting till after break-in to use synthetic otherwise you may cause damage.
Unless you're all modding your engine and Auto-X'ing it every weekend
I did go on vacation for 3 weeks, which time the car was not driven, The rotors looked rusted when I cam back, but after driving for a couple of days the rust came out and they are shiny again. But I have a suspicion it has something to do with it. As it made horrible grinding noise when I first drove it after the vacation.
sounds does not seem to change when steering left or right.
Rusty rotors would not cause a noise, except when braking.
The dynamic steering control and emergency braking feature both work well and the steering and braking continue to be precise and linear making for very predictable responses. The seating is very comfortable with ample adjustments and the climate control works great although I find I have to set the AC temp a few degrees colder than I had to on my other cars. The car is roomy and the trunk is one of the largest in this size car.
I only have two minor complaints.. One, I was disappointed that the car was delivered with 17" wheels; I was expecting, since it is a GT (Grand TOURING) model, that it would have 16" wheels for a little softer ride. I would expect the 17's to be on a Sport model not a Touring model !! And the second complaint is that using the fog lights automatically turns on the headlights. I don't know about in Japan, but here in New England, when we get heavy fog, the last thing you want is for the headlights to be blazing away causing a huge amount of light bouncing back at you. All we want is the flat fog beam staying a few feet above the ground.
It may be too soon for me to make any statements regarding durability or reliability, but my 1988 MX-6 was the most reliable car I have ever owned until I traded it in at 99,500 miles.. The only thing it ever needed beyond oil, tires, and brake pads was 2 or 3 mufflers.. They weren't made out of stainless steel back then.. It was GREAT car !! I'm hoping the 2009 matches it....
I thought the four cylinder Mazda 6 was a little bit underpowered. Did you not test drive the V6?
Somebody better tell that to Ford, since on the Fusion, the fog lights can be activated independently of the headlights. Same with just about every GM vehicle I've seen/driven.
I also live in the Northeast, and driving with fog lights only is almost essential on certain days, not only with fog, but try driving at night in blowing snow.
I've actually rewired the fusebox on my '04 Mazda6 to operate the fog lights to operate when the parking lights are on, also independent of the headlights. It's a simple five-minute procedure, and I'm sure that with the '09-up model, it can also be done.
Please give me specific models/years and I will report them to the NTSB. Also, what state are you in?
Thanks.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html
Those "fog lights" are most likely just there for show.
1. Which transmission fluid should I use.
2. Does this transmission have a drain plug like most Japanese transmissions that is easily accessible? any help with the location of the drain plug is appreciated.