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2009 Mazda6

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Comments

  • numb3rznumb3rz Member Posts: 15
    I bought my 09 GT in April. I have about 10,000 miles on it and absolutely love this car. I took a 300 mile trip and checked my mileage. I was always 10 over the speed limit, half the trip was at 80mph. I got 27.7mpg with four people in the car and some luggage.. I wouldn't give up the power for a couple more mpg's.

    This is my second new Mazda in the last few years and I have yet to experience my first problem with either car, (both Mazda 6's, 04 and 09). The 09 actually gets better mileage than the 04, despite having 70+ hp. Don't pass up the 6 cyl because of fuel mileage.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    There is about a 4-5 mpg difference, per EPA...that's more than a couple, IMO. The V6 uses about 20% more fuel than the I4, that is a pretty significant difference.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    He meant the '09 model V6 gets better mileage than his '04 model V6, not the V6 vs. the I4...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Okay, if you say so. Not sure how that relates to the "I wouldn't give up the power for a couple more mpg's." comment, though. :confuse:
  • numb3rznumb3rz Member Posts: 15
    Why do you quote the EPA? They rate my ride at 25mpg. I got 27.7 driving the car hard and loaded. That's a pretty significant difference. I could drive 50 and get 35,... I don't think so, drive hard, have fun, zoom zoom. If an econobox lights your fire, it doesn't light mine.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Well, what are you basing "a couple more mpg's on"?
  • cptpicardcptpicard Member Posts: 4
    Japanese Transmission would be a nice change from the old Ford Motor. CX-7 engine is great.
  • numb3rznumb3rz Member Posts: 15
    Are you overanalyzing this? My 40+ years of owning cars tells me a four cylinder gets a couple more miles from a gallon than a six cylinder. Let me define a couple, 2 to 10. How's that?

    I don't need the EPA to figure things out for me.They just got on board the global warming bandwagon calling greenhouse gases a health problem. They're talking about water vapor. Isn't that the exhaust of a hydrogen powered car? They have no more credibility than the Nobel Prize Committee.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    You drive a hydrogen-powered car?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Okie-dokey, I had mistakenly assumed you were saying something more specific than that.

    I guess I'd have to say that my gas mileage sucks on my 2007 Mazda6, 4 cyl. Commuting to and from work, it gets only a "couple" mpg's more than my old V6 minivan got.
  • numb3rznumb3rz Member Posts: 15
    Thought about converting my Suburban to hydrogen. Bought the plans but not the parts to build it. Don't have the time to play.

    I thought this was about Mazda's. They make solid cars but none with H power.
  • blin279blin279 Member Posts: 21
    ...CX-7 engine is great... by cptpicard
    LOL. Which one? 2.3L Turbo? Please check CX-7 forums:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1826a6!make=Mazda&model=CX-7&ed_m- akeindex=.f1826a6
    :cry:
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Bob-

    At our dealership, we have a engineer from Japan looking at a 2009 Mazda6 w/ 6-speed manual to look at this problem as well. The owner also thinks there might have been some sort of misfire, but, the computer has stored no such information. He is also transmitting the info back to Japan for analysis.

    I will keep you posted as to what he finds....
  • sirius1sirius1 Member Posts: 11
    Thanks, Aviboy- any info would be very helpful. This is a very vexing problem.
    Bob
  • sirius1sirius1 Member Posts: 11
    Aviboy- anything happening with that car in your shop?
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Actually, yes. The engineer from Japan was back again yesterday and we think he found a solution. I'm not sure on the details yet, but, I will keep you posted.

    I noticed you had a meeting with the district service rep a couple weeks ago. What was the outcome of that?

    Where are you located?
  • sirius1sirius1 Member Posts: 11
    I'm in Maine. I had my meeting with the rep a couple of weeks ago and nothing much happened. Then, of course, if you work for Mazda you know that they treat you like a mushroom- keep you in the dark and don't tell you anything. (I cleaned that one up because it's Christmas- don't want to get Santa mad at me.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    I'm well versed in the "mushroom" analogy ;)
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Bob-

    It looks like Mazda will be replacing a wiring harness and throttle on the Mazda6 with the hesitation issues. The engineer said this will solve the problem. I hope that helps!
  • 626gt626gt Member Posts: 15
    Aviboy97 - I hope you can help out another 09 6i GT owner. I have the stock 17 inch wheels/tires & I'm looking to move down to 16 inch wheel & tires for winter tires.

    I've found some used aftermarket 16 inch alloys, but want to make sure they are wide enough for calipers etc and have proper offset, hub bore etc. I cannot find anything about that for the 16 inch wheels for this car in my owners manual, mazda's site etc. I know the lug pattern is 5 x 114.3 but what width 16 inch wheel should I buy to clear everything ( I'm presuming at least 6.5 if not 7 inch but want to be sure), what is the hub bore and what offset would I get. I believe the winter tires that tirerack.com suggested were 205.65/16.?

    Thanks Chris
  • xyz123xyz123 Member Posts: 18
    Hi, I bought my 6s GT over a year ago.

    As a couple people have mentioned already, there is a distinct clanking from the brakes at low speeds. Service denies hearing this.

    There are small, but annoying little rattles and squeaks from various trim pieces. Not the kind you might hear when a car ages and integrity becomes compromised. Just pieces rattling and rubbing together, which can be particularly upsetting considering it's a new car.

    The windows make obnoxious rattling noises when opened and going over bumps. Service denies hearing it.

    There is the high-ish pitched whine/squeal coming from the engine bay, which has also been mentioned. Someone also mentioned that there is a service bulletin for this? Thus far my service denies hearing this.

    Gas mileage can be described as being miserable. Of course, a large part of this can be attributed to my driving style. I drive in the city and vicinity. My mileage ranges from 16-20 mpg, usually landing in the 17.5-18 window. Winter gas noticeably affects the numbers, by the way.

    18" rims are brittle. Not just in terms of the ride quality they provide, but also their actual construction. I've dented 3 of them, although Chicago potholes may be more severe than the norm.

    But, that's just a list of complaints. Otherwise, I'm okay with the car. It's pretty compared to its competition. And it's relatively fun to drive. It's been reliable other than an AC/radiator fuse failure. And with the old service manager fired, maybe these smaller issues will finally be addressed.

    For anyone considering the V6, the cost of ownership is really quite high (and validated by Consumer Reports). Although I don't regret choosing the Mazda6 over the Accord, Camry, or Altima, I do regret dropping pursuit of the 335, G37, and IS350. My intention was to save money over the BMW, Infiniti, or Lexus. But, the savings will be so small.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    I'm not sure which would be more irritating: hearing the squeaks and rattles in a new car that cost almost almost $30k OR listening to the service dept. jerks act like they have no clue what you're talking about!? :mad:

    It sounds like you bought yours shortly after the '09 hit the market. Early production, first-year models usually have some relatively minor (and sometimes rather major) issues. Back in late 1997, I bought a '98 Accord EX that was built in the first two weeks of the new model production. It had numerous 'minor' problems (most of them squeaks, rattles and other annoying noises) that afflicted the car for the three years I owned it. The worst was a creaking noise every time I sat down in the driver's seat and when I shifted my weight in the seat...it was maddening! I finally got a new driver's seat and a few squeaks fixed, but it wasn't even in the same league as my sister's '99 Accord (solid as a bank vault)....

    About the fragile wheels- low sidewall (low profile) tires definitely have some benefits in the handling and looks departments. But they also provide very little space to cushion a blow from a sharp pothole and the like. If the tire takes a hard hit, the damage often extends to the alloy wheel! :cry: In the four years I've owned it, I've replaced a total of three 17" alloys and two of my current ones have superficial damage, courtesy of Atlanta potholes! I destroyed two P205/50R17 tires along with two of those alloys I replaced....NOT worth it!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • redmazda3redmazda3 Member Posts: 28
    My 09 GT's seat heaters just burnt out. I noticed that the last couple of days the driver seat seemed to be hotter than usual. I attributed this to just being me as I don't use the heater for very long. Just to warm it up, then turn it off. Well, yesterday at lunch I pulled back into my office parking lot at around 12:45, everything seemed normal. At 1:45 I had to retrieve some papers from the car. I noticed a smell that seemed like cleaning fluid, but it was very faint. At 3:30 I had to go to a clients office. When I got in the car the burnt wiring smell was tremendous. Then I noticed that the light on the seat heater button was on, but I hadn't started the car yet. I started the car and the light stayed on, but the seat did not seem to get hot. I turned the switch off and went to the clients office and then afterwards, I took the car to the dealer.

    It's funny, their first thoughts were maybe I had a plastic bag stuck to the muffler. I pointed out the obvious, to me, that the car had been sitting for 3 hours while the smell got worse and the seat heaters on both seats didn't appear to be working.
    This was at 4:00 and I asked about a loaner. I didn't realize that Mazda had quit doing the loaner program. They told me that after they did a diagnosis on the car they would probably be able to let me use one of their cars. I've purchased 5 Mazda from them before and my salesman let take a used Miata home for the night. It may sound like I'm griping about the dealership, but I'm not. Just frustrated that this car only has 5,200 miles on it and this is the most major thing that I've had go wrong in 15 years.

    I'm sure that they will get the problem fixed. However, I think it's going to be quite a few days before I get my car back. Other than this seat problem, I haven't had anything else go wrong. I usually get 19.5 to 20 mpgs in town, V6, with this mostly being in city commuting. The Miata is fun to drive, but I don't think I'd like it for an everyday driver.
  • SmartBuyer_SmartBuyer_ Member Posts: 3
    "
    FWIW, I use option 3 with my iphone rather than getting the dock and have been pretty happy about it.
    "
    When using this option do you control the ipod through the Source -> IPOD (not sure if you have Nav package)?
  • ambrosiaambrosia Member Posts: 11
    I just replaced the front brakes on my 09 Mazda6 a week ago and I'm really bothered by it. While I do speed, I'm not an aggressive driver and am not in the habit of making hard stops. The vehicle has right around 20,000 miles on it and I've never had to replace brake pads this early. The dealership says this is not uncommon when you do a lot of city driving but I've never had to replace brakes so early on any other vehicle and I'm not doing any more or less "city" driving than before.

    I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and if it could be a design issue. BTW, I was told that I have about 80% left on the rear brakes.
  • pats1fanpats1fan Member Posts: 18
    I didn't have my brakes replaced, however I did have to have the rotors turned on my 09 with 13k miles on the car. I was told that "Mazda is known for making soft rotors." Complete BS IMO, but they needed to be done and they covered it.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    edited February 2010
    For owners of the 2009 or later mazda6 with the 2.5L engine. Can you please confirm if your engine sounds like this at idle after you have driven the car for a while (engine is at normal operating temperature).
    Actually I was looking on youtube and I found a link to someone who did a walkaround the mazda6, now this is the same car I have, even the color is the same. Listen to the last part of the clip as he opens the hood and gets close to the engine, Raise the volume as much as you can and listen to the distinct knock
    It is the not clicking noise of the injectors that you can clearly hear. It is a subtle faint background knock like 2 marbles rolling in a tin can.
    This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
    Thanks for the help
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
  • ianmaticianmatic Member Posts: 10
    The engine in my 09 Mazda 6 is slightly louder than other engines, also when i start up the car it idles at around 3000 rpms, and gradually comes down to about 1000 rpms after about a min. is that normal?

    Also i feel the 2.5L mazda 6 has no acceleration at all. Drove my dad's 4 cylinder camry and felt the camry was much faster, lighter and responsive when stepping on the gas pedal. Not sure if this is due to the 6 being a heavier car or not. Either way the high idle of the engine when starting up is annoying since the whole car shakes if you put it in reverse right away after starting. anyone else having this problem?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I do not think mine starts at 3000 rpm, but yes it starts higher and then goes down to 1000, but once warm (driven around for a bit), my idle is almost midway between 0 and 1000 rpm, which I think is low. how low does yours get?
  • ianmaticianmatic Member Posts: 10
    Its about the same once it warms up. Just wasnt sure if it is normal for it to idle at a higher rate when starting up. My dad's camry starts up just fine and does not have this issue. Is this common for 2009 Mazda 6?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    No I do not think its normal. If you have already changed the oil, make sure they are using 5W20 grade oil. 5W20 oil is more expensive and dealers prefer to use 5w30 or even 10w30 oil, which is not good.
  • ianmaticianmatic Member Posts: 10
    Is it better to use synthetic oil or would you recommend sticking to the 5w20?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    stick with the regular 5w20 till your warranty expires. then you can switch.
    Synthetic is better (After the break in period is over), but Mazda as a company sucks. I bought synthetic oil and tried to get my mazda dealer mechanic to put it in instead of the regular oil, and he said it might void my warranty, and that if he puts in synthetic he will enter the information into their computer system where they store the maintenance records, and it might affect any future warranty claim.
    Basically they are being real idiots. First and last Mazda for me. Although I really like the car. I have switched my dealer since where I service my car, but I am not going to push the synthetic issue again. I will settle for the 5w20 oil till warranty runs out.
    Also I noticed on the newer mazda6 model I saw at this years autoshow, looks like they replaced the oil filter (Cap system) with a normal twist on filter system. That is one thing I disliked about this car, so I will check with the new dealer if they can retrofit last years 2.5L with the new twist on filter adapter.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Going back to spin on filters is a downgrade, IMO. I don't see it as an advantage to have the rubber gasket of a spin on as the only thing keeping the oil in the engine.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    ...but Mazda as a company sucks.

    Sounds more like the dealer that "sucks". My local dealer allows one to bring in their own oil, as long as it's 5w-20 and it meets the minimum grades that Mazda specifies (which just about all quality oil does), synthetic as well.
  • ventureventure Member Posts: 2,876
    Right after I got the car I emailed Mazda and asked if I could use synthetic oil. They replied that they only recommend dino oil as that's what the engine is designed and tested to run on....or some such nonsense.

    I'm sticking with dealer oil until the warranty runs out too.

    2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport

  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Not being an expert...and the 'oil' issue is brought up regularly...

    But from what I understand synthetic doesn't help a 'regular' engine one-bit. It doesn't last longer and doesn't protect better unless the engine 'needs' it...like a turbo, high compression etc. Akin to using high octane gas on a vehicle that calls for regular.

    I've also heard the suggestion of waiting till after break-in to use synthetic otherwise you may cause damage.

    Unless you're all modding your engine and Auto-X'ing it every weekend :)
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I am starting to notice a noise similar to wheel bearing noise from the drivers side axle while driving at low speed. Could it be tires out of balance, or brake rotors cause this noise? it is too early for the bearings to go. The noise happens regardless whether the brakes are applied or not. The noise is not present at highway speed (probably there but the other road noises probably hide it).
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Usually wheel bearing noise will get worse when you turn the wheel a bit in one direction and better when turned in the opposite direction.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Are you sure it isn't the grinding alert-sound of the brake-pads that are worn out?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I inspected the brake pads, and there is quite a bit remaining on them, a bit over 50% I would say.
    I did go on vacation for 3 weeks, which time the car was not driven, The rotors looked rusted when I cam back, but after driving for a couple of days the rust came out and they are shiny again. But I have a suspicion it has something to do with it. As it made horrible grinding noise when I first drove it after the vacation.
    sounds does not seem to change when steering left or right.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Simple oxidation from moisture. I bet it rained or was humid in that time you were gone. Check a new car lot; you'll see most if not all brake rotors will look rusted if they haven't been driven in days. My '06 Accord is this way when I drive it after a few days of humid weather. It'll make grinding noise until the rust is rubbed off, then there's no problem. I have 60k miles on all original pads and rotors.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You had said: "The noise happens regardless whether the brakes are applied or not."

    Rusty rotors would not cause a noise, except when braking.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Very true point; I'd overlooked that. My point about rusty rotors stands, though., however unrelated. :blush:
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    I bought the 2009 6i GT automatic in Nov. 2008 and just went through the 20K mark last week. So far, I have had to do nothing but change the oil and bring it in for that recall last summer. It runs great, everything works as advertised and it has been one of the most solid, quiet cars I've ever owned; no interior rattles or body noises at all. And I traded an E-class Mercedes for the Mazda! It handles really well, although the 1988 Mazda MX-6 I owned handled better and was equal to (or real close to) a Mercedes SL500 or BMW 530 that I have driven.

    The dynamic steering control and emergency braking feature both work well and the steering and braking continue to be precise and linear making for very predictable responses. The seating is very comfortable with ample adjustments and the climate control works great although I find I have to set the AC temp a few degrees colder than I had to on my other cars. The car is roomy and the trunk is one of the largest in this size car.

    I only have two minor complaints.. One, I was disappointed that the car was delivered with 17" wheels; I was expecting, since it is a GT (Grand TOURING) model, that it would have 16" wheels for a little softer ride. I would expect the 17's to be on a Sport model not a Touring model !! And the second complaint is that using the fog lights automatically turns on the headlights. I don't know about in Japan, but here in New England, when we get heavy fog, the last thing you want is for the headlights to be blazing away causing a huge amount of light bouncing back at you. All we want is the flat fog beam staying a few feet above the ground.

    It may be too soon for me to make any statements regarding durability or reliability, but my 1988 MX-6 was the most reliable car I have ever owned until I traded it in at 99,500 miles.. The only thing it ever needed beyond oil, tires, and brake pads was 2 or 3 mufflers.. They weren't made out of stainless steel back then.. It was GREAT car !! I'm hoping the 2009 matches it....
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Regarding the fog lights, it is legally required in most states to have the headlights and fog lights on at the same time.

    I thought the four cylinder Mazda 6 was a little bit underpowered. Did you not test drive the V6?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    edited June 2010
    Regarding the fog lights, it is legally required in most states to have the headlights and fog lights on at the same time.

    Somebody better tell that to Ford, since on the Fusion, the fog lights can be activated independently of the headlights. Same with just about every GM vehicle I've seen/driven.

    I also live in the Northeast, and driving with fog lights only is almost essential on certain days, not only with fog, but try driving at night in blowing snow.

    I've actually rewired the fusebox on my '04 Mazda6 to operate the fog lights to operate when the parking lights are on, also independent of the headlights. It's a simple five-minute procedure, and I'm sure that with the '09-up model, it can also be done.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    "Somebody better tell that to Ford, since on the Fusion, the fog lights can be activated independently of the headlights. Same with just about every GM vehicle I've seen/driven. "

    Please give me specific models/years and I will report them to the NTSB. Also, what state are you in?

    Thanks.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Almost all factory-installed or dealer-optional fog lamps, and a great many aftermarket units, are essentially useless for any purpose, especially for extremely demanding poor-weather driving.

    http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html

    Those "fog lights" are most likely just there for show.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    I want to change the transmission fluid on my 2009 Mazda6, it is getting close to 30,000 miles and the fluid lost its pink color. It is currently light brown.
    1. Which transmission fluid should I use.
    2. Does this transmission have a drain plug like most Japanese transmissions that is easily accessible? any help with the location of the drain plug is appreciated.
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