Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
If there are wires not connected I have no idea where they would be. The only remotes we have are to lock and unlock the doors.
Any ideas?
1. Remove the wiper arm assemblies from both sides. They have a plastic cap which covers the actual nut. This just pops off with a screw driver. Then remove the plastic leaf guard that is under the wiper blades.
2. Remove the 3 nuts that hold each wiper shaft assembly. The left one will drop out. the right one needs extra room.
3. Remove the wiper motor assembly from the right side. I believe there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold it. Pull the motor assembly forward and drop the arm assembly down as you move it forward.
4. You should now be able to access the 3 strut nuts.
5. Remove 2 bolts from spindle assembly and pull strut down and out.
6. Assemble is reverse of above.
If you are just replaceing the strut tubes and not the whole assembly, you should think about changeing the strut bearing plates on top of the struts as they go bad usually before the strut tubes. If you feel and/or hear a poping/grinding noise while turning the wheels then the bearings are bad for sure.
If you are replaceing the whole strut assembly, spring and all, then you get new bearings in the assembly.
Sometimes it is best to have the alignment checked afterwards as you can disturb the alignment settings.
Hope this helps you. :shades:
of block... it just sticks in... if you clib under the vehicle and look between the rear exhaust manifold (just above) I think I recall being able to see it. Good luck...
On my first visit to the garage, the mecanic said it was my thermostat and changed it. The problem went away for two weeks and came back.
Went back to the garage and this time he flushed by cooling system. This worked for about two weeks and the problem came back.
I decided to change garages. This time the mecanic identified the problem! There was a tiny hole at the bottom of the radiator where air was entering and thus creating a blockage in the cooling system.
Apparently, the reason why the problem was going away for two weeks previously was that air in the system was removed when the mecanic would change the thermostat or flush the line and it would take about 14 days to accumulate sufficient air to cause the problem to return.
I am happy to report that the problem has not returned yet. Mecanic appears to have identified the smoking gun.
You may want to check this out (very difficult to detect these holes because they do not necessarily cause a visual leak of Prestone on your driveway).
Best regards,
Eric
Did you bleed the system? If not, some air is in the system and it overheats easily. So, have a look at two places which are identical. The first one is on left side and the other one on the right side. Try to see on top of the return heater hose along the valve cover on the top left side and near the thermostat on the right side. You will see a small screw on top of each place. These screws are the bleeders. Do you get them? Because these bleeders are at a higher level than the radiator, then some air is emprisoned in the system when the radiator is emptied. What you need to do is this:
1) Feel the system with antifreeze through the plastic bowl on the right side (driver's side);
2) Open both bleeders. If antifreeze does not appear, start the motor;
3) Always watch two things: a) the temperature light or gage; and b) the airflow from the heater - put it on warm at maximum. A trick: when the air is warm, the motor is cool - if the air is cold, then the motor overheats...
4) Let the motor running. You will see some antifreeze going out of both bleeder (you can go one bleeder at the time after a while, in quick alternance);
5) When antifreeze will go out on a current basis (you will see some splashes coming from a mix of air and liquid), then no more air is in the system. So, make sure to do this thing for both bleeders.
6) Be careful: if the temp gage is going up, just stop the motor a few minutes with the bleeders open. It could be useful too, in the process of evacuating the air, to press the gas pedal and have the motor running between 1500 and 2000 RPM. This accelerates the process.
If you doing this for the very first time, you will have to coordinate several things at once. So don't panic. Follow the temp gage and never let it going up to the maximum. Stop the engine if it goes up 3/4 of the maximum (so a line or two above the midpoint on the temp gage). In some cases, you might need to repeat all the operation, as some air could take a couple of minutes to be totally evacuated.
Yours,
Denis
Have you had anyone diagnose your concern? Can you please email me your VIN and current mileage? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I had this problem before and was thinking of changing the blower, but my friend at a GM dealer just changed the air filter at the heater core, I do not know exactly the location of it, it could be under the glove compartment where you can find the heater core, I believe. After that I had very strong hot air after that clogged air filter replaced.
Last week, the heater stopped blowing in my 1998 Pontiac Transport van when I start it using the (ProStart) remote control starter. The van starts fine with the remote, but the headlights and heater don't work until I actually go in the van and turn the key to on. The heater is left turned on the mddle blower setting all the time, so it isn't a problem that it got turned off previously. Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks for any help!
The PROSTART REMOTE CONTROL STARTER is a system that duplicates starting the vehicle with the key using a remote hence the name "remote control starter". At the ignition switch there are 2 accessory wires that need to be energized for the heater to work properly during remote start. When you are entering the van and turning on the key you are now energizing the second accessory wire that the PROSTART system is not connected to. This is a common installation error we see on a regular basis. There is a separate heater circuit that will not function unless it is properly connected. If the heat works fine when you start the vehicle with the key and not with the remote starter the problem is with the remote starter installation. If you have no heat with the key or the PROSTART system, that is a separate issue completely.
Thank you :mad:
I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana and the A/C when I turn it on won't turn until I reach speed 4 or 5 and when it does it goes on and off. The air is cold and I don't have problems when the air comes out, which comes out cold. The problem I am having is that it doesn't stay on. What is the problem when something like this occurs?
Possibly have air in system likely due to intake gasket leak although not sure yet. Also have P303 misfire but unknown if related to gaskets. For now I need to be able to get air out of cooling system due to temp guage spikes and warning light of Hot Coolant.
Any other methods for bleeding air appreciated. Heard one person suggest parkin vehicle on hill with front end higher than rear then using funnel in radiator filled with coolant to then bleed valves, keep funnel filled...repeat. then run engine bleed valves while funnel still filled. Do until no more air escapes valves.
Finally if air bubbles come from radiator cap opening it indicates likely intake gasket leak. Is this a good idicator of intake gasket leak?
Thanks
2years ago I changed the rad. (It was heavy with sludge ).
I flushed the heater core.
I changed the thermostat.
All new hoses and new antifreeze.
Works good now.
i have an o2 montana, been having heater problems as well like everyone else that owns one of these vans. my van does not have a rear heater will it still have an aux. heat pump, this morning it just blows cold air and is now over heating it is full of coolant. and when u turn the knob to change it from defrost to floor or vent u can hear it changing and it blows plenty of air it is just cold air instead of hot . my husband thinks it is the thermostat sticking causing it to over heat but u have to take the top part of the motor apart just to gret to the housing . i am really tired of this . do u have any ideas thanks
Can't remember the last messages i've posted but I was able to get heat back by flushing (myself) the heater core... of course in the most environmently friendly way - probably more-so that any garage would spend the time to do - see my previous posts on this. Lots of crap came out of my system and i figured I had the problem fixed. I took appart and cleaned the aux pump as it was completely blocked - another reason for no heat. I blead the system of any air, replaced the thermostat (but this is not really related to the heater core in this case) and bob was my uncle... best heat ever.
About 4 months later, I started getting rough idling... and could smell antifreeze.... I knew right away my head gasket let go and stopped running the van immediately. The cost to have my head gasket replaced (including new radiator - because I pull a ski boat with my van 3000k/yr on holidays) was around $3000 at a local shop. That explains why I was getting air into my system in the years previous causing overheating, poor fluid flow, limiting heat, etc. but it must have been minor enough that I did not see antifreeze in the oil or smell antifreeze in the exhaust so I didn't know.
If your motor is overheating your head gaskets might be going and causing air to enter your system not allowing the fluid to flow. This is major problem with this van, BUT there are things you can try before going down this road. Just keep an eye on the oil (look for brown color - signs of antifreeze in oil) and smell of antifreeze in exhaust. The exhast will show signs of white/grey and if this is the case don't run the vehicle... you'll bend your push rods or damage your shaft and then your motor is pretty much toast. This could be a cause of overheating. Second reason is a failing thermostat.
1) run the vehicle and monitor the hoses going to/from the heater core - do they heat up? Is the return heater hose from the core heating up just as fast?
2) Unless your vehicle is overheating, this is not a cause of your heat in the van but, release any air you have in your system using the two pins (one on tube coming out of water pump and the other near the thermostat housing while the vehicle is idling. Be careful, you just want the air to escape, not the fluid. See how much this helps, notice how much air comes out... if there is allot it could be a head gasket leak.... but if you clear it and then the air eventually comes back, you'll know. 3) Might be worth changing the thermostat. If you don't have alot of patience, this is a real pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and probably I would not do this again myself. But if you are taking it in for this then maybe you should have them do a diagnosis
3) If you have an auxillary pump (from the sounds of it you don't), lookup pictures on the internet for location. It is a magnetic motor driven pump at 10oclock of your antifreeze overflow container on RHS of the vehicle compartment... you can't miss this as it has a couple wires going to a sensor between the bumper and the rad. I cleaned mine and it was horrid... don't think any flow was getting to the heater core and is the only route to get there. I have given instructions for this in previous posts as well. If you do this, you might as well do #4 too.
4) use my proceedures to flush the heater core.... see my previous posts and i have given detailed instructions how to do this being highly environmently friendly. If your heater core is truely plugged, you will know because you will be able to tell what the flow is when you flush it.
Final comment:
These are ONLY suggestions based on my experience. If you want to save yourself some headaches after bleeding the system of air first and it does not help the heat, I would book an appointment to have your heater core flushed and your aux pump cleanned. My feeling is that your thermostat and pump and potential gasket leaks have little to do with the heat in your van if your van is not overheating. It is a pretty simple thing, there is likely no fluid flow through your heater core or not enough to allow you to get any heat. If you put the blower on the lowest spead and the engine is running at operating termperature you should feel some heat... if you feel none after some time it is either flow problem or a door is stuck... I highly doubt a door is stuck but again, i'm no expert... I can see the door binding and not fully closing or opening - this is possible. The vents work on air presure so if you hear them moving you should know they are working.
If GM came out with a new extended pontiac montana van I would buy it in a second. Yes, i've replaced head gaskets but it is the most versitile vehicle on the road as long as you are willing to be constantly fixing things - no more than any other vehicle in my opinion. Good thing about it is that it keeps running and I can pretty much fix everything myself if i'm feeling broke to save dealership prices. If you are not that way then this van could be a money pit for you.
Keep us posted on what happens !
Also, when we put freon in it gets cold and blows cold air out the front but blows hot air out the back. Does anyone know what is causing this? Please help we need air in the back for the 4 kids. My husband touched a pipe or hose on the bottom of the van while he had the air on and it was really hot. Any idea's or help please!
This raises some serious questions about the safety of the wiring harnesses in this car. I have had to replace the rear break light assembly due to the houseing burning out. Now I find this on the heater control center. The fuel gage does not work properly...This too is noted as a electrical problem.....UMMMMMMMMM