Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have to admit, that I like having a van fully loaded with temperature guage showing me, its -1C outside, because thats when the road is most icy. Driving in Saskatoon is a real challenge with all the potholes, and ice. I will feel a real loss when this simple temperature monitor fails.
For all you reading this threads, I found it useful to call the GM dealer. I had a very serious problem with my brakes freezing. A guy at the dealership in Saskatoon recommended I take my van to the heated garage on 1 Avenue, to dry out the brakes. I found another trick. I bought a propane torch which I used to heat the rear brake drum. I then sprayed in a small hole in the brake drum cleaner. This worked every time. Obviously, when the weather gets warmer, I will take the drum off, and clean and repair the brake shoes. I bought this Montana van for $1,000, and if I can fix these minor problems, I will have a great van, to get to work. My last comment is about replacing the spark plugs. Apparently, it costs $400 because of the cost of removing the alternater etc to get at the 3 spark plugs at the rear of the engine. I tried to find a YouTube video on this. Anyone know.
Its great, you can go the local auto wrecker and find the replacement for the heater and AC wiring and replace it.
I also, had the rear tail brake light socket melt and fail. I put in a new bulb and cleaned the socket. Again, dirt and oxidation of these sockets cause heating and melting of these parts. Thats why quality components have GOLD plating to avoid these oxidation problems. Even having nickel alloy contacts would be an improvement. When we buy a vehicle, I don`t think anyone asks this question of the dealer, what kind of electrical connectors are on the brake lights, heat lights, signal lights, as these are critical components. As long as the vehicle passes the 100,000 kilometer warranty, that is sufficient. Personally, as I fix wiring which does not operate at -50C with silicone wiring, I see this stuff, as a challenge. You know, its a cheap crapy designed wiring, but how, can it be fixed to last another 2 or 3 years when the engine craps out.
Thanks for jjallen07 comment, as I will be going to the local wrecker to fix my AC heater control. It would be nice to know, what you payed for the part....
I put on new head gaskets, new timing chain and gear along with rear crank seal, new plugs, wires, thermostat and now a MAP sensor. I have taken off the heater core hoses and put a hose up to it and flushed the inlet and watch the water come out as fast as the water pressure going in. I did not open it up full blast and flush but it seemed the water was flowing sufficiently.
I then did the rear hose the same way. I put them all back on, I started the engine after I topped it off and then bleed both bleeders. Is there a sequence to doing that. Both spit a little air and then antifreeze came shooting out if I open it far enough.
When the car is hot and the cooling fans are running I turned on the heater inside, front and back. Bleed the bleeders again. NO HEAT. I touched the inlet to the heater core and it is warm, not hot. What am I missing or did I do something out of sequence or wrong?
KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
Hello,
I have a 2000 Montana and have experienced many of the same problems. Just under a year ago, I had the condenser and related parts replaced as my a/c quit blowing cold air. Even after this, I continued to have problems, so mechanic bypassed heat (I live in Florida, so not a huge issue for me). Everything worked fine for a while...My problem now is that the front a/c stopped blowing. It is still getting cold (as I feel it come through vents when I'm driving) and the rear still blows. Any ideas what I should check???