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Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Even worse than that would be going to redline with a cold engine on start up, and even worse than that would be "lugging" a new engine by driving at low rpm in too high a gear.

    If an engine is revving freely and at not a real extreme (redline) it's not working too hard, but when it's trying to push a car up a hill at 25 mph in 5th gear, that's murder on an engine.

    Best way to destroy an engine is to lug it mercilessly, or let it ping heavily under load for long stretches.

    My personal favorite way to break in an engine is full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline, and then letting the engine drag downhill, in gear, with the foot off the gas.

    So full throttle at times, and high vacuum deceleration at times...the rest of the time just normal everyday driving without going to redline until maybe 1,000 miles.

    Besides, the rev limiter will protect you...but not from a careless downshift at too high a speed.
  • wanttobelievewanttobelieve Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I just bought a I4 SE last week, and have so far put 300 miles on it so far. While out on the highway to run the break-in procedures, I realized that the car had (in my opinion) relatively loud wind noise coming from the windshield. It starts at around +60mph, and sounds constant, not to high pitched, and seems to come from the whole wind shield, and not from a hole in the insulation.

    I love how the car sounds at lower speeds (<50mph),
    but I feel this wind noise kills the experience on the
    highway.

    I actually have two questions:

    1) Is this wind noise normal? Or is it something I should
    try to mention to the dealership?

    2) Are there any tried/true solutions for the wind noise?
    (Dynamat, 3M sealing tape etc). I noticed that the
    a-pillar juts out from the windshield near the base,
    creating a ledge.

    Please, any suggestions would be great. I thought I would be comfortable with the wind noise level, but lately I have
    been having second thoughts.
  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    I've always avoided revving a motor before it has reached normal operating temperature or, with manuals, lugging in too low a gear.

    "full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline"... If I had to describe how my wife drives the new car in 10 words or less, that would be it, LOL... :P

    I think I'll be OK with the rest of the break-in, I realize I probably should not have had my fun with the car until after I bought it and drove 600 miles, but I'm at around 220 miles right now and the "Maintenance Minder" system has not yet changed from "100% Oil Life" down to "95% Oil Life" so the car must not think it has been treated too poorly :) .
    I'm guessing it will be a good sign if it changes to 95% at around 250 miles? That would mean it is still projecting first oil change at 5,000.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Those factory engineers with the pocket protectors are generally really smart, and I'd rely on what they have to tell you. If the manual errs on the side of excess, you can always adjust according to your good judgement.

    I put in synthetic at the 5,000 mark on my engine, and I broke it in just like your wife does! And it's a very strong engine now, I think.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    true but there are certain procedures to follow depending on the code. your car does not just store codes for the heck of it. It's because a sensor performed out of spec. The codes narrow the problem down and the technician can do more testing to figure out the problem. This is why I mention that there is no need for the technician to "duplicate the problem". the code is proof of a potential problem.

    Do you remember what the code was? If so, there might be a few people who can give you an indication of what could be the problem..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Oil life will drop in increments of 10% until it goes to 15%. My car usually goes from 100% to 90% after about 700 miles. I just had my car serviced, and let it go all the way to 15% (never done that before). It had 6,300 miles on that oil when the car hit that 15% and told me to do maintenance.

    If you drive hard, look for Oil Life changes in increments of 500-600 miles for every 10 %. I drive lighter-footed (not revving a whole lot, but do occasionally rev to 5-6k if I'm feeling frisky and seeing a fun on-ramp ahead), so I get about 70miles/1%
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The code does not tell the tech what caused the misfire. The tech does have test testing equipment, to narrow down the problem, but if the tech cannot duplicate the problem (misfire does not happen while testing), he's screwed. The tech can always "throw parts at it" and hope he guesses right, but that can become real expensive after a couple of wrong guesses.
  • panzerleaderpanzerleader Member Posts: 15
    OK, currently 1600 miles on car. Slight, very slight rough idle in neutral. Felt slightly in steering wheel and driver seat bottom. Is this a breakin issue? Dealer says there are no idle adjustment. Interesting note is NO flucuation in RPMs on TACH but you can still feel it. again very slight. Is this a charcteristic of the 6 cylinder? ALSO, my temp gauge reads very cold operating temp, below midrange. And it stays that way. Anyone have any thoughts on both issues????? Thanks. P.S. Average MPG Combined city/Highway 27-28 mpg
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The temp gauge should rise to just below half way. Stuck thermostat could be the cause, or temp sensor. You can test the thermostat yourself, with boiling water. The sensor test would require a multimeter and some (service manual) specifics.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I've never had a temp gauge that rose to the halfway point. Most go to about 40% of the way up.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If you have a misfire and it triggers a particular code (check engine light), the technician should follow a procedure for that particular code to determine the problem. If after he follows this procedure and everything checks out fine and he still does not know what caused the misfire, he should reset the code and explain to you that he did not find anything but to keep an eye on it and if it happens again (check engine light comes on), note the driving conditions and bring it back in. To say that they "cannot duplicate the problem" is not an acceptable answer. Like I mentioned before, the "check engine light" does not come on for no reason. The code is proof that something isn't right. this is why the "check engine light" is there. the technician needs to diagnose the problem not throw parts at the car. they owe it to the OP as part of the sales agreement to do due diligence and resolve this problem.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You don't seem to understand that the code does not tell the tech what caused the misfire. So unless he can get the engine to misfire while he has it in the shop, the only alternative is to throw parts at it, and hope he guesses right. This can become a long useless, and expensive method. I would not want a tech throwing expensive parts at my car, when I'm the one paying for them.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    elroy5: I understand how codes work. But depending on the code, there are certain procedures to follow to diagnose the problem. You don't simply replace parts. You test certain sensors, hook up machines, etc. The fact that he can't repeat doesn't mean he can't try to fix the problem. The check engine light has come on twice and flashing, I believe. The excuse "can't duplicate" is unacceptable because the check engine light is the proof something is not working within specifications. Figure it out! Don't return it to the owner with that lame excuse. A good technician that has been working on Accords should be able to narrow down the cause based on the specific code.

    BTW, his car is under warranty. This is Honda's bill.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ...... Is this a charcteristic of the 6 cylinder? ALSO, my temp gauge reads very cold operating temp, below midrange. And it stays that way. Anyone have any thoughts on both issues????? Thanks. P.S. Average MPG Combined city/Highway 27-28 mpg


    ...same engine/same transmission, half the doors: agree the six has a barely perceptible idle presence.

    Coolant temp runs slightly below mid-point. Your MPG is almost a mirror image of mine. An Interstate trek should knock your sox off. Seriously, that deep 6th gear will bring you perilously close to 40 if you've the self-control to hold 2150-2200 RPM for long distances............

    best, ez...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    But depending on the code, there are certain procedures to follow to diagnose the problem. You don't simply replace parts. You test certain sensors, hook up machines, etc.

    And if none of the parts fail the tests (the engine never misfires), what then? You can demand all you want, if they can not duplicate the problem, they can not fix the problem. It's as simple as that.

    Honda does not allow techs to replace parts (under warranty) unless they fail the tests.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Let's agree to disagree. You say they can't fix it because they can't duplicate it. I say they aren't serious about fixing his problem and not taking the time to properly diagnose it. Our going back and forth is not helping jaruby.

    jaruby: if you have the code number do a google search with the code and "Accord". There are a number of websites that discuss the OBD codes and specific car brands. There are a number of them that discuss the Accord and misfires. It's various years of the Accord but with a little searching you may find out more information. (Gee why didn't the technician do something this simple.) If not, find another dealer. IF after the third time it's not fixed, I would contact the Regional manager and start your Lemon Law proceedings. I agree, something is not right with your brand new Accord.
  • theavidlearnertheavidlearner Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Honda accord. A friend of mine says that because HOnda accord is a fuel injection engine. We dont need to warm up the car. Warming up the car is only required for the other older kinds of car? Is this truth or fiction?

    Do we need to warm up the car in the morning when we drive to work and then warm up again in the evening when we get off from work?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    What does your manual say on the matter? :blush:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    He is correct. In warm weather I let me car idle about 10-15 seconds..about the time to get myself situated with the radio and climate control. In colder weather, I normally idle for 30 seconds..about the length of a radio station commercial. Just take it easy with quick starts in colder weather.

    quick story: Waiting for my wife in my minivan (Quest) with the engine running. I switched the screen to "fuel economy" to see how we were doing with this tank of gas. Initial screen showed 15.9 mpg. Left it on that screen with the van still idling. A minute or so later, i noticed the MPG was going down. It now showed 15.2 and was going down. Of course I immediately shut off the van. So yes, idling does waste gas.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The best warm-up is easy-to-moderate driving (under 3,500 RPM) until the car warms up. Idling isn't really necessary, just don't floor it when you leave. If you leave somewhere and pull out onto a 60 MPH highway immediately requiring a quick merge, I'd let it warm up a minute or so.

    Personally, I can't really reach over 35 MPH in the first 5 minutes of my morning commute, so I just crank and go, and the car is nice and warmed up by the time I may ever need to punch it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    elroy5: I understand how codes work.

    You obviously don't. I've posted the page that starts with misfire codes, and the testing procedure. Once the tech gets to the point where it says intermittent problem, system OK at this time (end of #8), That's it. If the misfire does not happen during the tests, that's the end. THE CODE DOES NOT SAY WHAT CAUSED THE MISFIRE.

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  • benderofbowsbenderofbows Member Posts: 542
    OK, the oil life monitor changed from 100% to 90% at approximately 480 total miles on the odo. And I thought I was being really easy on the car (except for the fun the wife and I had while making sure I wanted to buy it)!

    This was mostly relatively short trip (5 to 10 miles one way) city driving except for 60 miles out on the highway. I mostly kept the motor between 2,000 to 3,000 rpms except for sporadic runs up to 4,000. I've even been coasting down hills in gear for engine vacuum as Mr. Shiftright suggested.

    Curiuosly, I was averaging 28 miles per gallon at the second gas fill-up (got the first full tank from the dealer after my extended test drive, when it had about 40 miles on it). If I was really driving hard, as the oil life monitor suggests, wouldn't my fuel economy reflect this?

    How can I be so far behind the curve on the oil life expectancy, yet still meet the EPA fuel economy rating for my mostly city driving, especially on the first tank? (EPA 26 mpg, 2.4L 5M)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I think maybe you have missed a crucial point which is that the technician could have done more to solve the problem than shrugging and saying I give up. I have no reason to disbelieve what you are saying about the code not pinning down the problem, but I do think that more could/should have been done to track the problem down. Internet searches, calls to other dealerships, calls to Honda are just a few examples.

    Let's not make this into a personal issue between you and the other poster when all we really want to do is help the poster with the problem.

    'kay? :-)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Thank you Pat. This is exactly the point I was trying to make.

    I just hope Jaruby posts the code and maybe someone on this forum can help him. Like I mentioned, there are a bunch of websites that address misfires in the Accord depending on the code.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I do think that more could/should have been done to track the problem down. Internet searches, calls to other dealerships, calls to Honda are just a few examples.

    And despite the diligent efforts of fine technicians, some problems do go unsolved.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    As a matter of fact, when you idle, you get 0 miles to the gallon. ;)
  • exshomanexshoman Member Posts: 109
    This is just a guess, but maybe those short 5-10 mile trips may count more heavily towards the percentage. I wouldn't sweat it too much. At about 6000 miles I hit the 15% level. This is with a mixture of short trips and 25 mile commutes.

    Congrats on getting 28 mpg with a lot of short trips. The best tank I ever got was 30, and average about 28, but that's with about half highway driving. Then again, I'm not one to shy away from the occasional spirited run through the gears. With my wife driving (much more in the way of short trips, and she has a bit of a lead foot too), she get about 26.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    No one would dispute that elroy. Give it a rest, please.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    exshoman is right, short trips are harder on an engine and its oil (and its fuel economy). Don't worry too much, your fuel economy is telling the real story here on how you are driving (which is modestly). Your oil life recognizes it is spending a good deal of time cold, or below normal operating temperature. It won't really "hurt" the engine, it just means you'll need fresh oil sooner than others.

    Keep loving your Accord, it is a wonderful vehicle!
  • ol07ol07 Member Posts: 24
    Average MPG Combined city/Highway 27-28 mpg

    Must be nice, you all almost make me regret the auto. I wanted the 6-speed but the city I am in has one main road, and too many hills, I'd never make it above 3rd. My last combined avg was a little over 23. Haven't been on the highway in over 3 weeks and have averaged 15 in the city.

    Due for my first oil change soon (little orange wrench makes me laugh), I was told to bring it in at 0% by one dealer and 15% by another. Any comments?
  • colchester47colchester47 Member Posts: 261
    Ok, . it's the Ex-L..without the Nav....4 cly.,166 horsepower, black on black, 5 spd auto,sun-roof etc. for my wife. So far she/we love it. Any info I should know about it?..Is the XM radio stations worth keeping? So far it runs smooth, handles nice,....any comments?.....thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Congrats on the ride! All I could tell you right now is to break it in properly, as your owner's manual will tell you.

    I have a 2006 4-cylinder EX, but without the leather package, and absolutely love it after 17,000 miles.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Congrats on the new car. I have the 06 EX-L w/Navi, although it is a 4 cyl. manual. Let us know if you have any questions... great car.

    I am totally hooked on XM. It takes awhile to find the stations you like... there are so many choices.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    stick sweeeeet.

    XM and Sirrus looking to merge pending regulators approval?

    other than that, just envy. :shades:
  • lacocacolamanlacocacolaman Member Posts: 2
    Hello Guys,

    This is my first time. I'm trying to replace the Factory speakers. I got the door panels removed, but the speakers aren't screwed on to the Door. It seems to me that they are either glued on or snapped on. How could I remove the factory speakers? Should I just force off the factory mounting?(I tried but bent the factory mounting and stopped) HELP me with some simple steps.
    much appreciated
    Rafael R. III
  • daninoahdaninoah Member Posts: 45
    I have a one month old EX-L V6 6 speed. It is great! My mileage is not quite what you are getting, but perhaps the break in period has something to do with it. In exclusively city driving, I am getting 20-21, which is spot on for the EPA estimate.

    I just took a long trip up the coast and back, with 90% freeway driving (although much of it was two lane undivided highway with need to pass slower vehicles -- pretty fun going from 60 - 80 in 4th and 5th gears). My mileage was in the 27-29 range on two tanks of gas. I thought that was pretty good, in light of the need to pass, and my freeway speeds of 80 - 90 mph. On the way back, my total odometer mileage was about 1200, so I got her up to 110 on a desolate stretch of I-5, and she was smooth and stable. Great ride!
  • bobafettbobafett Member Posts: 9
    The owners's manual says "Do not change the oil until scheduled maintenance time."
    With previous vehicles I have done an oil change and switched to synthetic after 1000 miles. Should the original oil be left in for the full 5000 or so miles to 15% oil life before the first oil change?
    Does anyone have a reason to not use synthetic oil?
    Thanks.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Honda uses a special break in oil and you should leave it in until the scheduled maintenance interval.

    As for changing to synthetic - that's a personal choice. But if you do, you should still follow the maintenance minder.

    What does the manual say about synthetic use?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    You should keep the original oil in until at least 5000 for the reasons mentioned. We even had one poster confirm that after he sent a sample of his first oil in for analysis.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Leave the oil until 15% like the manual says.

    Does anyone have a reason to not use synthetic oil?

    Yes, it is more expensive to use in the long run, when a Honda engine will run 300k miles with no problems on regular oil with oil changes done when recommended by the computer (15%).
  • bobafettbobafett Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the good info.
    The manual doesn't recommend synthetic, but also says it is fine to use it. Just doubles the price of an oil change.

    One more thing:
    I only see the timing belt mentioned in the manual for the V6. Does this mean the 4 cyl has a timing chain?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Yes, the 4 cyl has a timing chain and the V6 has a belt.
  • aficioengaficioeng Member Posts: 1
    While trying to run power for a sub woofer in the trunk I must have done something. Now the keyless remote no longer works, when you turn the ignition off everything goes off including/ dome lights, headlights, door locks, windows etc. But with the key in every thing works except the keyless entry.
    The anti theft light on the dash blinks, but if you try to use the key to lock the driver side door it only locks that door and does not set the alarm.
    I don't want to jeopardize my warranty, what could I have done?
  • colchester47colchester47 Member Posts: 261
    these cars are to high-tech today to fool around with them....the radio controls half your electronics today....when you put anything thats aftermarket on your car, you risk voiding out your warranty...
  • will26will26 Member Posts: 62
    So is it not a good idea to buy the car at a dealership a few hours away? It would be pretty much all highway driving back so is this bad for the breakin?
  • saleemsaleem Member Posts: 114
    I wouldn't worry about it if it's under say 300 miles. Make a couple stops for snacks or something. The break-in period lasts longer than just the first 500 miles. Buying a car far away is fine, especially if you make some stops and perhaps vary your speed (accelerate, coast, repeat), even though that will piss off the traffic around you !!!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would definitely not stay at the same speed (rpm) for extended periods (during break-in). I'm thinking I would drive in the slow lane for a couple miles, then switch over to the fast lane for a while. Setting the cruise control and cruising at one speed for an hour, would be a no-no, IMO.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I bought my car a couple of hours away and did what others have suggested. I was also able to get off the freeway and drive on some roads that were in the same direction so that I could vary the speed. And what a great excuse to stop for lunch!

    The car has over 20,000 miles now and is just fine.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    .... have a one month old EX-L V6 6 speed. It is great! My mileage is not quite what you are getting, but perhaps the break in period has something to do with it. In exclusively city driving, I am getting 20-21, which is spot on for the EPA estimate.

    ...regret not noting your post earlier.......

    The 6M is indeed a highway star. Actually, my city (LA) mpg is exactly like your 20-21.

    If you've the self control/discipline to hold that eager six down - - that is substitue 70-75 for your 80-90 - - be on the lookout: 33-35 mpg......(been there, et al ad nauseum)

    great car (and for $25.5 even in license/tax heavy Calif.)

    ..best, ez...
This discussion has been closed.