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Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
If an engine is revving freely and at not a real extreme (redline) it's not working too hard, but when it's trying to push a car up a hill at 25 mph in 5th gear, that's murder on an engine.
Best way to destroy an engine is to lug it mercilessly, or let it ping heavily under load for long stretches.
My personal favorite way to break in an engine is full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline, and then letting the engine drag downhill, in gear, with the foot off the gas.
So full throttle at times, and high vacuum deceleration at times...the rest of the time just normal everyday driving without going to redline until maybe 1,000 miles.
Besides, the rev limiter will protect you...but not from a careless downshift at too high a speed.
I love how the car sounds at lower speeds (<50mph),
but I feel this wind noise kills the experience on the
highway.
I actually have two questions:
1) Is this wind noise normal? Or is it something I should
try to mention to the dealership?
2) Are there any tried/true solutions for the wind noise?
(Dynamat, 3M sealing tape etc). I noticed that the
a-pillar juts out from the windshield near the base,
creating a ledge.
Please, any suggestions would be great. I thought I would be comfortable with the wind noise level, but lately I have
been having second thoughts.
"full-throttle bursts of speed but not to redline"... If I had to describe how my wife drives the new car in 10 words or less, that would be it, LOL... :P
I think I'll be OK with the rest of the break-in, I realize I probably should not have had my fun with the car until after I bought it and drove 600 miles, but I'm at around 220 miles right now and the "Maintenance Minder" system has not yet changed from "100% Oil Life" down to "95% Oil Life" so the car must not think it has been treated too poorly .
I'm guessing it will be a good sign if it changes to 95% at around 250 miles? That would mean it is still projecting first oil change at 5,000.
I put in synthetic at the 5,000 mark on my engine, and I broke it in just like your wife does! And it's a very strong engine now, I think.
Do you remember what the code was? If so, there might be a few people who can give you an indication of what could be the problem..
If you drive hard, look for Oil Life changes in increments of 500-600 miles for every 10 %. I drive lighter-footed (not revving a whole lot, but do occasionally rev to 5-6k if I'm feeling frisky and seeing a fun on-ramp ahead), so I get about 70miles/1%
BTW, his car is under warranty. This is Honda's bill.
...same engine/same transmission, half the doors: agree the six has a barely perceptible idle presence.
Coolant temp runs slightly below mid-point. Your MPG is almost a mirror image of mine. An Interstate trek should knock your sox off. Seriously, that deep 6th gear will bring you perilously close to 40 if you've the self-control to hold 2150-2200 RPM for long distances............
best, ez...
And if none of the parts fail the tests (the engine never misfires), what then? You can demand all you want, if they can not duplicate the problem, they can not fix the problem. It's as simple as that.
Honda does not allow techs to replace parts (under warranty) unless they fail the tests.
jaruby: if you have the code number do a google search with the code and "Accord". There are a number of websites that discuss the OBD codes and specific car brands. There are a number of them that discuss the Accord and misfires. It's various years of the Accord but with a little searching you may find out more information. (Gee why didn't the technician do something this simple.) If not, find another dealer. IF after the third time it's not fixed, I would contact the Regional manager and start your Lemon Law proceedings. I agree, something is not right with your brand new Accord.
Do we need to warm up the car in the morning when we drive to work and then warm up again in the evening when we get off from work?
quick story: Waiting for my wife in my minivan (Quest) with the engine running. I switched the screen to "fuel economy" to see how we were doing with this tank of gas. Initial screen showed 15.9 mpg. Left it on that screen with the van still idling. A minute or so later, i noticed the MPG was going down. It now showed 15.2 and was going down. Of course I immediately shut off the van. So yes, idling does waste gas.
Personally, I can't really reach over 35 MPH in the first 5 minutes of my morning commute, so I just crank and go, and the car is nice and warmed up by the time I may ever need to punch it.
You obviously don't. I've posted the page that starts with misfire codes, and the testing procedure. Once the tech gets to the point where it says intermittent problem, system OK at this time (end of #8), That's it. If the misfire does not happen during the tests, that's the end. THE CODE DOES NOT SAY WHAT CAUSED THE MISFIRE.
This was mostly relatively short trip (5 to 10 miles one way) city driving except for 60 miles out on the highway. I mostly kept the motor between 2,000 to 3,000 rpms except for sporadic runs up to 4,000. I've even been coasting down hills in gear for engine vacuum as Mr. Shiftright suggested.
Curiuosly, I was averaging 28 miles per gallon at the second gas fill-up (got the first full tank from the dealer after my extended test drive, when it had about 40 miles on it). If I was really driving hard, as the oil life monitor suggests, wouldn't my fuel economy reflect this?
How can I be so far behind the curve on the oil life expectancy, yet still meet the EPA fuel economy rating for my mostly city driving, especially on the first tank? (EPA 26 mpg, 2.4L 5M)
Let's not make this into a personal issue between you and the other poster when all we really want to do is help the poster with the problem.
'kay? :-)
I just hope Jaruby posts the code and maybe someone on this forum can help him. Like I mentioned, there are a bunch of websites that address misfires in the Accord depending on the code.
And despite the diligent efforts of fine technicians, some problems do go unsolved.
Congrats on getting 28 mpg with a lot of short trips. The best tank I ever got was 30, and average about 28, but that's with about half highway driving. Then again, I'm not one to shy away from the occasional spirited run through the gears. With my wife driving (much more in the way of short trips, and she has a bit of a lead foot too), she get about 26.
Keep loving your Accord, it is a wonderful vehicle!
Must be nice, you all almost make me regret the auto. I wanted the 6-speed but the city I am in has one main road, and too many hills, I'd never make it above 3rd. My last combined avg was a little over 23. Haven't been on the highway in over 3 weeks and have averaged 15 in the city.
Due for my first oil change soon (little orange wrench makes me laugh), I was told to bring it in at 0% by one dealer and 15% by another. Any comments?
I have a 2006 4-cylinder EX, but without the leather package, and absolutely love it after 17,000 miles.
I am totally hooked on XM. It takes awhile to find the stations you like... there are so many choices.
XM and Sirrus looking to merge pending regulators approval?
other than that, just envy. :shades:
This is my first time. I'm trying to replace the Factory speakers. I got the door panels removed, but the speakers aren't screwed on to the Door. It seems to me that they are either glued on or snapped on. How could I remove the factory speakers? Should I just force off the factory mounting?(I tried but bent the factory mounting and stopped) HELP me with some simple steps.
much appreciated
Rafael R. III
I just took a long trip up the coast and back, with 90% freeway driving (although much of it was two lane undivided highway with need to pass slower vehicles -- pretty fun going from 60 - 80 in 4th and 5th gears). My mileage was in the 27-29 range on two tanks of gas. I thought that was pretty good, in light of the need to pass, and my freeway speeds of 80 - 90 mph. On the way back, my total odometer mileage was about 1200, so I got her up to 110 on a desolate stretch of I-5, and she was smooth and stable. Great ride!
With previous vehicles I have done an oil change and switched to synthetic after 1000 miles. Should the original oil be left in for the full 5000 or so miles to 15% oil life before the first oil change?
Does anyone have a reason to not use synthetic oil?
Thanks.
As for changing to synthetic - that's a personal choice. But if you do, you should still follow the maintenance minder.
What does the manual say about synthetic use?
Does anyone have a reason to not use synthetic oil?
Yes, it is more expensive to use in the long run, when a Honda engine will run 300k miles with no problems on regular oil with oil changes done when recommended by the computer (15%).
The manual doesn't recommend synthetic, but also says it is fine to use it. Just doubles the price of an oil change.
One more thing:
I only see the timing belt mentioned in the manual for the V6. Does this mean the 4 cyl has a timing chain?
The anti theft light on the dash blinks, but if you try to use the key to lock the driver side door it only locks that door and does not set the alarm.
I don't want to jeopardize my warranty, what could I have done?
The car has over 20,000 miles now and is just fine.
...regret not noting your post earlier.......
The 6M is indeed a highway star. Actually, my city (LA) mpg is exactly like your 20-21.
If you've the self control/discipline to hold that eager six down - - that is substitue 70-75 for your 80-90 - - be on the lookout: 33-35 mpg......(been there, et al ad nauseum)
great car (and for $25.5 even in license/tax heavy Calif.)
..best, ez...