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It usually restarts right away, but sometimes takes several minutes.
I just bought it, so I am not too familiar with it.
Some of the gauges jump when I start it, but otherwise there aren't any obvious problems with the vehicle other than the locks need lubing.
It has 125k miles on it.
I bought it "as is", so I expected there might be a problem or two, but this particular one is obnoxious.
The body is rough, but everything works EXCEPT for the stalling problem.
HELP!!!!!!
The battery works fine. I have no charging problems, and it cranks fine after the stall.
Plus, there is no sputtering or anything like that when it stalls. The engine just stops dead, and I have to wait a little while before it will start again sometimes (sometimes hours).
I am not getting any check engine lights except when I initially turn the key on.
Is that perhaps an indication that the computer is history?
There doesn't seem to be any other problems in the electrical system.
The car cranks fine after stalling, and the problem acts every bit like a loose wire problem.
Any other suggestions?
Possible short in the starter, or the battery cables need to be checked. If the car is parked outside a lot, the connections at the battery tend to become corroded and act like a loose wire problem. Also, the engine grounding could have a similar problem if vehicle is parked outside.
1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.
3) FOR 1999 AND LATER
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD
alan
DO NOT KNOW IF IT WORKS FOR YOUR YEAR....
1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.
3) FOR 1999 AND LATER
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD
alan
1. Vehicle would idle and run fine, but then the ignition would simply disconnect and the engine would die. No sputtering, just an ignition cutoff.
2. Vehicle then wouldn't restart for hours, but would eventually.
3. I found I could ground the engine block and get it to start.
4. There was no "check engine" light.
I took it to the local Jeep dealer and had a diagnostic run. They checked the crankcase sensor (the one that tells the engine when piston 1 should be firing), and it was bad. Replaced that for $300. Runs fine now, no stalls at all. Purrs like a mountain lion looking at a sheep.
Don't mess with it.
Take it to the Jeep dealer for a diagnostic.
In the meantime, try grounding the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle. This might get you going for a short time.
Hope this helps.
The symptoms of the problem were pretty clear:
1. The Jeep would run for 5 minutes and just STOP DEAD (no sputtering, just an ignition cutoff);
2. The Jeep would not turn over for several hours, but eventually did.
Assuming that the problem was related to a charge buildup on the engine block (which appears to affect the time it both runs and the length of time it takes to restart it after a stall), I grounded the engine to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle.
The Jeep started and I was able to drive it for 20 minutes to get it fixed.
The sensor cost $300, but I haven't had any problems with stalling or slow starting since, so it was well worth the price.
Before, I couldn't drive the Jeep more than about 1/2 mile before it stalled.
Try grounding the engine block, and at least you may be able to get it started. You can also try placing a jumper from a solid metal part of the engine to the negative terminal.
Also, make sure the terminals on your battery are squeaky clean just for good measure.
Good luck!
CKS (crankshaft position sensor) isn't too bad to change once you've done it... first one I did, I supported the tranny crossmember w/ a floor jack & lowered the transmission crossmember (2 bolts & 2 studs) a couple of inches which gave me more room to get to the sensor. Just be careful not to snap a stud or bolt. They're metric if you end up having to replace them.
If you don't want to do that, go to Harbor Freight - you can get a set of wobble extensions. Borrow a few more extensions if you need to - you can feed them up to the CKS and remove it without lowering the tranny.
NAPA carries the CKS:
Part Number MPE CSS980SB ECH CSS980
Price 34.49 40.62
Believe it or not, you can do it from up top but it's a royal pita to do.
A quick check for the CKS when you stall out is to unplug it and replug it back in. Often, it will then start up. Reason being is the sensor is weak and when you unplug/replug you clean off a bit of the oxidation on the sensor connector allowing a slightly stronger signal to reach the computer. The computer depends on this (and camshaft position sensor) to determine top dead center (TDC) and a weak, or non-existant signal means the computer doesn't know when to fire the ignition.
As mentioned in the above post - poor grounds can be a major cause of problems. On the RENIX based Cherokees (non-HO, 1990 & earlier) the connectors were quite frankly garbage and oxidized due to moisture infiltration over time. A ground jumper from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a common fix for other issues. The ground strap from engine head to firewall (driver side) often breaks or is left off when an engine is serviced and results in all kinds of gremlins. I HIGHLY suggest you replace it with a generic battery eye-to-eye ground strap. I also added another ground strap and upgraded the battery charging cables (seriously undersized from the factory).
These engines are fairly bulletproof and will easily go 300k+ with decent maintenance.
I have a RENIX diagnostics page on my Jeep website: http://www.lunghd.com as well as contact info if you have further questions.
I've changes the plugs, checked the leads and coil, changes the battery ... but don't know what else to do.
I want to keep the car because it was my dads, but can't afford to spend much cash on it ... can anyone help.
1. Car struggles to cold star it will turn over but just can't quite fire.After about 6 attempt the car will start
2. Once the car has started it runs rough and lumpy and will not rev .This rights itself and the car runs ok after about 30 seconds .
3. If i stop the car then try to re-start while it is hot the car will not start at all !!
We have tried new ECU etc coming to the end of our idears now please help !! :mad: :sick:
I need to do same for mine and I was about trying autocomputersystems.com until I read their review somewhere on the net. They were careful not to include it on their site. http://fortlauderdale.citysearch.com/profile/2448438/davie_fl/auto_computer_exch- ange_inc.html
Any ideas?
I am fighting an A/C compressor that is the same way. Starts good runs a bit and then shuts clutch disconnects. Low and High pressure switches seem to test good.. UUGGGGhhh. This Jeep is getting under my skin!!!!
Exchanging information is what Forums are for and taking the discussion to email tends to defeat that purpose.
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SUVs and Smart Shopper
car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for
I need help need to get to work and this is horse my friends some
thank you
Anthony
The vin is 1J4GZY844PC56_ _ _ _.
I know if's a 318 engine overdrive auto
Thanks in advance for any info
It finally started after we changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark plugs, Air filters, oil change(wires etc..), Coil, and Fuel pump. I believe the problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor but the Coil had a crack and I changed that also.
Now it has a different problem, after driving for about 10 mins, the car starts stalling, and the RPM needle starts moving up and down. It's not surging. It feels like it's choking or not getting fuel.
Yesterday, I changed the Throttle Position Sensor.
The Catalytic Converter was rumbling for a couple of weeks, so I changed that also. Still the same problem - no progress. I hope it's not a trans problem, or I created a bigger problem by not changing the Catalytic Converter sooner.
I would appreciate your help. Thanks.
Today we changed the idle control valve and cleaned the fuel injectors. Yesterday tested the solenoil by removing it to see how the car would run, it seemed fine. We removed the map sensor and things sounded worst so we put it back. Not sure if I should replace it and the o2 now. Just putting money in...
Now, while it's on park and I put it on drive or reverse, the rpm starts working up and the engine starts making a funny noise - like low power.
It seems to happen right after the engine warms up.
I would appreciate any help..thanks
I had a stalling problem with my Jeep and I couldn't get it to drive 5 minutes. I figured it was an open connection and grounded the engine block, and the vehicle worked at least long enough to get me to the repair shop where it turned out to be the piston 1 sensor.
It appears, and this is just pure speculation, that a charge builds up on the engine block if the ground is not perfect, and eventually the high voltage and the engine block are at the same voltage. When this happens, nothing will seem to work right. Your Jeep uses a conventional ignition system, and this system will fail when the engine block becomes charged someone near the voltage differential in the battery. No tech will ever check for this, and even the process of checking for it may discharge the block sufficiently that the problem will disappear for a few minutes (like until you get into heavy traffic five blocks away).
I would suggest trying this before spending the next kazillion dollars chasing a problem you may never find.
It appears you have already hit the usual suspects.
I'm going to look into this tomorrow. I agree, it seems to be something simple..
Today someone told me that the engine timing might be off.
Thanks again.
I got the sensor problem solved right away, but there are still other ISMs on my Jeep that suggest a bad engine ground.
I may permanently hardwire a shunt to the frame.
It's burning a lot of gas now, I'm averaging $20/day.
I believe the problem might be that it's reving too high. The neighbours could hear my car running when it's warming up in the morning.
I have to look into that now...
Thanks for all your help..
I can tell you that I replaced the clock spring about three weeks ago along with the turn signal handle/headlights arm that attaches to the steering column. Not sure this is related.