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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

124

Comments

  • robp1115robp1115 Member Posts: 2
    Last night I drove to the hospital and back with no prob. Parked the car and the next morning tried to start and it didn't want to. Turned key, engine turned over and didn't start. Tried again while giving gas and started up but all interior light dimmed and as soon as i let the gas pedal go car completely shut off. Any suggestions?
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    I have a 93 Cherokee that starts fine and runs fine, but occasionally the engine just cuts out without warning.

    It usually restarts right away, but sometimes takes several minutes.

    I just bought it, so I am not too familiar with it.

    Some of the gauges jump when I start it, but otherwise there aren't any obvious problems with the vehicle other than the locks need lubing.

    It has 125k miles on it.

    I bought it "as is", so I expected there might be a problem or two, but this particular one is obnoxious.

    The body is rough, but everything works EXCEPT for the stalling problem.

    HELP!!!!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    first i would clean my battery posts real good if battery looks like its real old change battery jeeps like steady volts from battery
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    I haven't looked under the hood yet, but I get the impression from reading some of the posts that it has something to do with the computer mounting.

    The battery works fine. I have no charging problems, and it cranks fine after the stall.

    Plus, there is no sputtering or anything like that when it stalls. The engine just stops dead, and I have to wait a little while before it will start again sometimes (sometimes hours).

    I am not getting any check engine lights except when I initially turn the key on.

    Is that perhaps an indication that the computer is history?

    There doesn't seem to be any other problems in the electrical system.

    The car cranks fine after stalling, and the problem acts every bit like a loose wire problem.

    Any other suggestions?
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    Interior lights dimming means a drag on the voltage caused by excessive current draw.

    Possible short in the starter, or the battery cables need to be checked. If the car is parked outside a lot, the connections at the battery tend to become corroded and act like a loose wire problem. Also, the engine grounding could have a similar problem if vehicle is parked outside.
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER



    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • alby3alby3 Member Posts: 46
    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.
    DO NOT KNOW IF IT WORKS FOR YOUR YEAR....

    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER



    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    I had the following symptoms:

    1. Vehicle would idle and run fine, but then the ignition would simply disconnect and the engine would die. No sputtering, just an ignition cutoff.

    2. Vehicle then wouldn't restart for hours, but would eventually.

    3. I found I could ground the engine block and get it to start.

    4. There was no "check engine" light.

    I took it to the local Jeep dealer and had a diagnostic run. They checked the crankcase sensor (the one that tells the engine when piston 1 should be firing), and it was bad. Replaced that for $300. Runs fine now, no stalls at all. Purrs like a mountain lion looking at a sheep.

    Don't mess with it.

    Take it to the Jeep dealer for a diagnostic.

    In the meantime, try grounding the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle. This might get you going for a short time.

    Hope this helps.
  • nj673nj673 Member Posts: 1
    Cherokee 1997 2.5 diesel limited 150k. Occasionaly blows the 30A fuse under the hood, any common electrical problems I should be looking for??
  • loosescrewloosescrew Member Posts: 2
    Need help real fast, I changed the serpentine belt because the old one came off. It didn't break and just came off! After changing it now the stupid jeep starts up but after 5 minutes it stalls and is hard to keep running! I read that it may be the crank sensor and that was located on the top of the bell housing " Duh" how am i supposed to change something i can't get to? I put it up on ramps located the wire on top of housing but cannot get my arm up to the wire and i certainly can't see how to get any kind of a wrench in there to change it lol. Please help me with any : answers? Also why did the belt come off in the first place? nothing was loosened when i checked! I did notice that the bottom crank pully looked like it had some gasket coming off it??????
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    I had a similar stalling problem with my Jeep. It did turn out to be the sensor.

    The symptoms of the problem were pretty clear:

    1. The Jeep would run for 5 minutes and just STOP DEAD (no sputtering, just an ignition cutoff);

    2. The Jeep would not turn over for several hours, but eventually did.

    Assuming that the problem was related to a charge buildup on the engine block (which appears to affect the time it both runs and the length of time it takes to restart it after a stall), I grounded the engine to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle.

    The Jeep started and I was able to drive it for 20 minutes to get it fixed.

    The sensor cost $300, but I haven't had any problems with stalling or slow starting since, so it was well worth the price.

    Before, I couldn't drive the Jeep more than about 1/2 mile before it stalled.

    Try grounding the engine block, and at least you may be able to get it started. You can also try placing a jumper from a solid metal part of the engine to the negative terminal.

    Also, make sure the terminals on your battery are squeaky clean just for good measure.

    Good luck!
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Check harmonic balancer if your belt flew off - they're notorious for flying off kilter when the rubber inner 'liner' rots away. After that - check the water pump shaft for wobble along with the other pulleys & idler (if present).

    CKS (crankshaft position sensor) isn't too bad to change once you've done it... first one I did, I supported the tranny crossmember w/ a floor jack & lowered the transmission crossmember (2 bolts & 2 studs) a couple of inches which gave me more room to get to the sensor. Just be careful not to snap a stud or bolt. They're metric if you end up having to replace them.

    If you don't want to do that, go to Harbor Freight - you can get a set of wobble extensions. Borrow a few more extensions if you need to - you can feed them up to the CKS and remove it without lowering the tranny.

    NAPA carries the CKS:

    Part Number MPE CSS980SB ECH CSS980
    Price 34.49 40.62

    Believe it or not, you can do it from up top but it's a royal pita to do.

    A quick check for the CKS when you stall out is to unplug it and replug it back in. Often, it will then start up. Reason being is the sensor is weak and when you unplug/replug you clean off a bit of the oxidation on the sensor connector allowing a slightly stronger signal to reach the computer. The computer depends on this (and camshaft position sensor) to determine top dead center (TDC) and a weak, or non-existant signal means the computer doesn't know when to fire the ignition.

    As mentioned in the above post - poor grounds can be a major cause of problems. On the RENIX based Cherokees (non-HO, 1990 & earlier) the connectors were quite frankly garbage and oxidized due to moisture infiltration over time. A ground jumper from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a common fix for other issues. The ground strap from engine head to firewall (driver side) often breaks or is left off when an engine is serviced and results in all kinds of gremlins. I HIGHLY suggest you replace it with a generic battery eye-to-eye ground strap. I also added another ground strap and upgraded the battery charging cables (seriously undersized from the factory).

    These engines are fairly bulletproof and will easily go 300k+ with decent maintenance.

    I have a RENIX diagnostics page on my Jeep website: http://www.lunghd.com as well as contact info if you have further questions.
  • nickflynnnickflynn Member Posts: 1
    Hi ... I've inherited a 98 4.0 Cherokee from my father ... which when cold starts and runs like a dream ... but as soon as it gets hot, it will stall and refuses to start again until it cools down completely (about 90 minutes).

    I've changes the plugs, checked the leads and coil, changes the battery ... but don't know what else to do.

    I want to keep the car because it was my dads, but can't afford to spend much cash on it ... can anyone help.
  • karmas22karmas22 Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have a 51 plate jeep grand cherokee V8 4.7 L petrol that has a few problems .
    1. Car struggles to cold star it will turn over but just can't quite fire.After about 6 attempt the car will start
    2. Once the car has started it runs rough and lumpy and will not rev .This rights itself and the car runs ok after about 30 seconds .
    3. If i stop the car then try to re-start while it is hot the car will not start at all !!

    We have tried new ECU etc coming to the end of our idears now please help !! :mad: :sick:
  • fan48fan48 Member Posts: 1
    y 96 cherokee country has developed a intermittent stall issue. I have no idea what to do. It will do fine most of the time at hwy speeds, ocasionally will sputter a little,but when it is acting up the most I will be in stop and go traffic or idoling at a traffic light.The rpm's will jump high then drop almost to nothing and it will stall out and shut off. When this happens it will start back up and after I get moving has reved high and spitts and sputters but usally will clear up and go on, I just replaced the fuel pump and still have the same issue. Any ideas, I have been reading that it could be the crank sensor.
  • mycar99mycar99 Member Posts: 2
    HI can you tell me where you ordered the rebuilt from please?
    I need to do same for mine and I was about trying autocomputersystems.com until I read their review somewhere on the net. They were careful not to include it on their site. http://fortlauderdale.citysearch.com/profile/2448438/davie_fl/auto_computer_exch- ange_inc.html
  • vader8vader8 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 grand cherokee that will not idle after warming up. is there a sensor bad and where is it located?
  • eddyweddyw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95' 4 banger cherokee. In the morning it runs great but after sitting in the sun all day it hesitate most of the drive home. It idles fine but has the issues when applying the gas. I changed the fuel filter, new plugs and wires, cap and roter, oil and filter. Basic matinace still can't figure it out. Any suggestions???
  • bvisockybvisocky Member Posts: 3
    I have been having the same problem. 2000 Cherokee Sport. Ran fine till I decided to clean the IAC motor/valve, pretty carboned up. Since then it has been a pain. Runs OK cold, and at high RPMs. Once the engine gets warm and sits a bit, it wont idle. I am not sure what is going on. I bought a new one and it is a bit better, I have been using the new and old to try and determine if the original has gone bad.

    Any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    try a new throttle positioning censer
  • bvisockybvisocky Member Posts: 3
    Is there a way to test it? I hate throwing money at stuff to see if it may be the problem.
    I am fighting an A/C compressor that is the same way. Starts good runs a bit and then shuts clutch disconnects. Low and High pressure switches seem to test good.. UUGGGGhhh. This Jeep is getting under my skin!!!!
  • trover357trover357 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 1994 4.0 Cherokee. I was the crank sensor.....I hope this helps.....I don't know if this site will let me know your response, but my email is trover357@yahoo.com. Let me know if it works...... Vernon
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I don't know if this site will let me know your response, but my email is ...

    Exchanging information is what Forums are for and taking the discussion to email tends to defeat that purpose. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • shadow86shadow86 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 jeep cherokee and in the past few months my jeep has been acting up right after i start it up a few minutes later my jeep starts sputtering and feels like it is going to die and when i stop at a stop sign or stop light the rpms drop and i have to give it some gas so it wont die, but today i was driving and it was doing that stuff again and it just died and i havent been able to start it since, it turns over and all the electrical is still on it just doesnt start and i have no idea what is wrong with it. please let me know what is wrong
  • wkendmechanic1wkendmechanic1 Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    was driving and all of the sudden the car just died

    car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
    out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
    at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for

    I need help need to get to work and this is horse my friends some
  • abivone323abivone323 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone im looking for some help with my 98 jeep Cherokee. i was parked and sitting and all of a sudden my Jeep went into this low idle, it had sounded like it had just got racing cams in it but clearly it didn't. So i popped my hood and listened to the motor and it just constantly sounds like it was sucking for air to stay on, what could be the problem?
    thank you
    Anthony
  • joes96jeepjoes96jeep Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Cherokee Sport with a 4.0 L engine. Car was running fine one moment then when I went to start it 20 minutes later it just turned over but wouldn’t kick in. No spark. So far I’ve change the crankshaft position sensor, the Powertrain control module (or ECM) with one from a reputable junk yard, the coil checked o.k. after I took it out and had it checked; the rotor cap appears fine. I don’t hear the fuel pump kick in like I believe I should when I turn the key on. Another thing I noticed that I don’t recall hearing before is the electric cooling fan runs when I turn the key on, which I thought is odd, since the engine’s cold. I checked the relays in the engine compartment and they all seem to be fine? Any thoughts? I think the only way I can check the PCM is to find someone with the same vehicle and swap out and see if their car runs, unless some has another idea.
  • mikeg63mikeg63 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, runs alright but here lately mainly going up mountains it will just quit, had it out yesterday and it quit twice. Went out this morning to take a look at it to see if I could see anything wrong with it and now it wont start. Tried a new starter and still nothing! What should I look for?
  • bart_3500bart_3500 Member Posts: 2
    My son has a 93 ZJ and it too would just die for no reason. After some time we found out that the coil MUST have 300+ ohms or the computer shuts it down. After changing out the coil the rig has never died again. Hope this helps.
  • bart_3500bart_3500 Member Posts: 2
    My son has a rolled 93 Grand Cherokee that he rolled. I have a friend interested in buying it for the power train. Can anyone tell me the differentials (i.e. Dana 30,44 etc) and axle ratios? Transfer case (i.e. Dana _ _) (Newprocess _ _ _). Or????
    The vin is 1J4GZY844PC56_ _ _ _.
    I know if's a 318 engine overdrive auto
    Thanks in advance for any info
  • hall4schall4sc Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have an 01 Cherokee that is baffling my town mechanics. It stalls out when the idle is at 1,000 rpms. The oil gage has also started shooting up to 80 for no reason. The computer doesnt have any memory and sends the mechanics comp crazy. I have recently put a new battery in as well as a full tune up. The car had been sitting for a few months not driven in the desert. Drove great for a few weeks and then this. I dont want to spend a ton of money on a new computer when no one really knows WTH the problem is. Anybody had this happen. And what does a computer cost anyways. Thanks
  • niesahniesah Member Posts: 2
    The past few weeks, my Jeep will sputter when I first start it in the morning, then after 30-45 seconds, it will straighten up and be fine. It's also done it when I've started it when I leave work, or if I have to leave at night, pretty much anytime it sits for a couple hours. Also, when I roll forward (like waiting for someone to pass so I can turn left at a stoplight), it will sputter like it wants to die, and I have to give it gas. We changed my spark plugs, my distributor cap, cleaned the MAF sensor, and nothing has helped. I thought it could be bad gas, but I have a new tank of gas from a different gas station, and I put a can of Sea Foam in it. We really don't know where to go from here, so if anyone has ANY suggestions, PLEASE let me know!! Also on a different subject, my jeep will hang back sometimes when it shifts into the next gear. I'll have my foot on the gas when I'm pulling out of a parking lot (for instance), and it'll hang back, and then all of a sudden it will kick in. It also feels like it's shifting kind of hard...I'm really hoping that my transmission isn't going out on me. I just rolled over 160,000 miles on it. I don't really know what the upper limit is on jeep mileage, but I'm afraid I'm getting to that point. If anyone has any ideas about any of the above issues, I'd really appreciate it. Thank you!!
  • chadhlms25chadhlms25 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Jeep XJ, when I slightly press the accelerator the engine sputters and stalls on me. For instance, when im in a traffic jam and I creep forward, it often stalls. It also does it in reverse. The only way to avoid it is by accelerating quickly; I can manage doing this if im moving forward but it doesn't seem like a great idea to floor it while backing out of a parking space (if you could imagine). I was thinking it could be the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump sock is full of crud. I recently had the fuel system cleaned (including injectors) and replaced the fuel filter. Has anyone else had the same issue corrected, and knows the culprit?
  • teallenteallen Member Posts: 1
    It is possible that the connections on the computer have gotten dirty,take battery cable off then remove plug to computer check and spray with contact cleaner.Replace plug and put battery cable back on. Hopefully this will fix your problem.I had similar problem on a cherokee.
  • casteel11casteel11 Member Posts: 1
    When I start up my jeep and put it in drive and start going the engine seems sluggish and i can press the peddle down as hard as possible but it doesn't want to accelerate until a few seconds later. After it gets going it doesnt do that anymore its only on start up. I dont know if it would be my plugs or not. Any help would be nice so I can get this problem marked off the list. thank you
  • cudafancudafan Member Posts: 1
    Your diff's should be a 30 front and 44 rear, pretty standard on grand cherokees however they sometimes changed those, look on the pumpkin of the diff's for a tag. it should be stamped with the modle of the diff and the ratio. the ratio's will be identical on both axles.
  • dquinn1982dquinn1982 Member Posts: 1
    This sounds like it might be your Idle Air Control Valve.
  • schniezer1807schniezer1807 Member Posts: 1
    i am having teh exact same problems, when i start mine its starts rough, i changed distributor, spark plugs/wirs, induction coil, it reading the fuel pressure is good so its not a clogged filter. i used seam foam twice thinking maybe water or pollutants in the tank and nothing has worked. did you ever get the problem straightened out? if so what did you do. so far this week it has died on my twice when accelerationg from a stop. mechanics near my house cant find any reason it shouldnt work
  • niesahniesah Member Posts: 2
    Sorry it took so long, but yes, it seems like we got the problem straightened out. My issue ended up being spark plug wires. However, I had been having the stalling and sputtering issues for awhile, and it ended up causing the guts of my catalytic converter to...disintegrate basically. And that in turn messed up my muffler, which ended up causing me to have to replace my tailpipe because the new muffler didn't work with the tailpipe that I had. We also had to change my distributor cap, spark plugs (3 times in like 2 months...) fuel filter, fuel pump, downstream O2 sensor, cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the MAF sensor...it seems like I'm missing some stuff. But anyway, we did a whole lot to it when all was said and done. The problem was finally fixed once we replaced the spark plug wires. That's not to say that none of the other stuff that we replaced/cleaned/etc. had anything to do with the problem as well. All I can say is that it hasn't done it since we replaced the wires. Good luck with it! Believe me, I know how frustrating it is. I ended up spending over $500 in that time, just chasing parts...has your check engine light come on at all? I know mine was coming on if I was going up a really steep hill, and if I was pushing it to stay at say...55 mph. It would go off in the next day or so though...I also have a transmission leak, but I'm sure that has nothing to do with my original problem...Hope this helps!!
  • needhelp29needhelp29 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 jeep grand cherokee laredo, well there are a few problems but the most recent and worrisome is that it now sputters like it is not getting enough fuel or is misfiring. it doesn't do this all the time but it usually happens in some degree. i thought it was bad gas but after running that out and refueling i am still having the same problem. it also will not stay going when i first start it up for the day i will usually have to keep the gas petal pushed in until it warms up a bit. i don't know if the two problems are related or not but i think it may be an o2 sensor causing it to sputter while driving. any suggestions?
  • mmm12mmm12 Member Posts: 4
    The problem started last week, the car was cranking but would not start.
    It finally started after we changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark plugs, Air filters, oil change(wires etc..), Coil, and Fuel pump. I believe the problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor but the Coil had a crack and I changed that also.

    Now it has a different problem, after driving for about 10 mins, the car starts stalling, and the RPM needle starts moving up and down. It's not surging. It feels like it's choking or not getting fuel.

    Yesterday, I changed the Throttle Position Sensor.
    The Catalytic Converter was rumbling for a couple of weeks, so I changed that also. Still the same problem - no progress. I hope it's not a trans problem, or I created a bigger problem by not changing the Catalytic Converter sooner.

    I would appreciate your help. Thanks.
  • acampaneacampane Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was going on? I'm having the same problem right now.
  • mmm12mmm12 Member Posts: 4
    No luck. Very frustrating. The vehicle gave me 11 years, with only an a/c problem - until now... I hope I could fix it..
    Today we changed the idle control valve and cleaned the fuel injectors. Yesterday tested the solenoil by removing it to see how the car would run, it seemed fine. We removed the map sensor and things sounded worst so we put it back. Not sure if I should replace it and the o2 now. Just putting money in...
    Now, while it's on park and I put it on drive or reverse, the rpm starts working up and the engine starts making a funny noise - like low power.
    It seems to happen right after the engine warms up.
    I would appreciate any help..thanks
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    This may seem like a low tech solution to a seemingly high tech problem, but try securely grounding the engine block to the vehicle frame.

    I had a stalling problem with my Jeep and I couldn't get it to drive 5 minutes. I figured it was an open connection and grounded the engine block, and the vehicle worked at least long enough to get me to the repair shop where it turned out to be the piston 1 sensor.

    It appears, and this is just pure speculation, that a charge builds up on the engine block if the ground is not perfect, and eventually the high voltage and the engine block are at the same voltage. When this happens, nothing will seem to work right. Your Jeep uses a conventional ignition system, and this system will fail when the engine block becomes charged someone near the voltage differential in the battery. No tech will ever check for this, and even the process of checking for it may discharge the block sufficiently that the problem will disappear for a few minutes (like until you get into heavy traffic five blocks away).

    I would suggest trying this before spending the next kazillion dollars chasing a problem you may never find.

    It appears you have already hit the usual suspects.
  • mmm12mmm12 Member Posts: 4
    I Appreciate your help. I know, it adds up.
    I'm going to look into this tomorrow. I agree, it seems to be something simple..
    Today someone told me that the engine timing might be off.
    Thanks again.
  • timdoolingtimdooling Member Posts: 7
    Let me know how it turns out.

    I got the sensor problem solved right away, but there are still other ISMs on my Jeep that suggest a bad engine ground.

    I may permanently hardwire a shunt to the frame.
  • mmm12mmm12 Member Posts: 4
    Finally!!! It's running...knock on wood.. It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor.. I believe it was not positioned correctly the first time. I had someone else redo it and bingo.. it stalled a little in the beginning then stopped. he said the car needed to recalibrate itself because of all the parts that I changed and now it runs great...
    It's burning a lot of gas now, I'm averaging $20/day.
    I believe the problem might be that it's reving too high. The neighbours could hear my car running when it's warming up in the morning.
    I have to look into that now...
    Thanks for all your help..
  • utahgradutahgrad Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo, six cylinder. Just recently I've had the following issues. I noticed yesterday that when I went to start the car, it seemed as if the battery was dead. You could hear clicking. After a minute or so, this went away and the car would crant, just not start. I eventually pumped the throttle and it started rough...stall, repeat. After a few minutes, it stayed running, but only tacking about 400rpm. You could tell it just wanted to stall. Traffic lights, same thing. When you are traveling, there doesn't seem to be any issues. Any thoughts?
    I can tell you that I replaced the clock spring about three weeks ago along with the turn signal handle/headlights arm that attaches to the steering column. Not sure this is related.
  • joeogiojoeogio Member Posts: 1
    just replaced my water pump yesterday and now my jeep idles high after it warms up especially in park and sometimes idles low in drive any ideas what is causing this i havent had this problem before... note: when replacing my water pump i had to take the air box out and im pretty sure i got all of the vac hoses put back on and the big duct like hose that feeds into the air box has a tear in it and has since i owned it but never afected anything from what i can tell
  • stretch166stretch166 Member Posts: 1
    i noticed over the weekend that my jeep has struggling starting. i think it may be the starter. it takes a few seconds to turnover. i'm having it checked out tomorrow but i'm thinking it could be the starter or the alternator. thoughts? i'm trying to let this truck survive until jan or feb of 2012. i've had it since 2000.
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