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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

flajeep95flajeep95 Member Posts: 4
My Cherokee has 150K, sometimes I need to jiggle the shift lever (3spd Automatic) just right to get it to crank. Do you think it's the neutral safety switch or a linkage adjustment? Anyone else ever experience the same problem? The problems tends to be worse when I do quick trips. Moe ( my cherokee's name) has been over the river and through the woods and around the block a few times. His still strong and I want to keep him Jeeping.
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Comments

  • johnnyb173johnnyb173 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 93 that's doing the same thing. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
  • flajeep95flajeep95 Member Posts: 4
    I'm still jiggling, I spoke to a mechanic and he says it's a problem with a switch thats mounted inside the tranny. His cost for the switch is about $300. I'm still researching it,there's got to be a cheap easy fix
  • wheatley1wheatley1 Member Posts: 15
    It's funny how when I read these posts on here I have had the same problems that so many others have had. I could not get mine to start once so after a tow to the garage and a day of working on it the mechanic told me about the $300 dollar switch, but if you are looking for a cheap easy fix, my mechanic gave me one of those two. Just start it in neutral when it won't start in park. Basically the computer isn't sensing the tranny position properly, even though mechanically it's in park. This is kind of a generic fix, but if it's like mine is, it doesn't always fail to start, just on occasion. Bottom line is the only way to fix this, so I've been told, is to replace the switch. Mine is a heap anyway so I opted to do the neutral start instead.
  • johnnyb173johnnyb173 Member Posts: 4
    I did the same thing for about two years. Sometimes the backup lights would work, sometimes they wouldn't. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldn't. So, I would put it in neutral or push forward on the shifter in park and it would start. But, eventually it got to the point that it would take about twenty minutes of messing around to start it. Not a good thing if you want to be on time to work or wherever you are going. So, I took it to a garage and they told me about the neutral safety switch. I bought a new one on eBay for $120 (including shipping) and my brother-in-law and I changed it. It's actually not too hard to do, but the old one was goulded on and it the new one was tight and had to be forced on. But, now my reverse lights work and it starts every time.
  • flajeep95flajeep95 Member Posts: 4
    Hey was the NSS mounted externally on the tranny or internal? Also, has anyone out there tried adjusting the shift linkage?
  • dawnindallasdawnindallas Member Posts: 2
    Johnny, could you pass on your eBay seller??? I'm in the same boat and will have to get a switch. I've had the exact same problem with my '92 Cherokee Laredo for a little over two years. Now it won't start in neutral or park. I haven't tried pushing the shifter forward in park, but I'm going to give that a shot in the short-term. It would be also be nice to have reverse lights again! I love my Jeep and am not ready to part with it! :-) Thanks for the eBay info!
  • dawnindallasdawnindallas Member Posts: 2
    By the way, it worked! :-) That is, pushing the shifter forward in park. Thanks for sharing that!
  • johnnyb173johnnyb173 Member Posts: 4
    The NSS is mounted on the outside of the transmission on the passenger side. We had tried adjusting the shifting linkage but that didn't work. After taking the old one off, we did notice that there is some adjustment to the NSS itself. The top bolt allows for some adjustment but I'm not sure how much.
  • johnnyb173johnnyb173 Member Posts: 4
    The eBay seller I used was: jeep_parts_4_less

    Here is a link to a switch like the one that I bought:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-OEM-Neutral-Safety-Switch-Jeep-Cherokee-87-96- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQhashZitem270069467385QQihZ017QQitemZ270069467- 385QQtcZphoto

    If you aren't sure which one you need you can always send him an e-mail. He replied quickly to mine and the transaction was quick and simple.
  • slayrmanslayrman Member Posts: 2
    I had the coil tested also had the ignition module tested the starter is 5 months old the starter relay is new the battery is new it was cranking but just wouldn't start can anyone help me out with this i don't want to get rid of my jeep just yet :sick:
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Problem is in the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and can be repaired yourself if you are willing to give it a try.
    I have a downloadable zip file with the 'how-to' instructions on my Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website. Look on the On-Site Tech index for that, or on the Downloads page. There are also links to some other sites with fixes for this on my Off-Site Tech index.

    You can also go to JeepsUnlimited or NAXJA (just google them up!) and head to the Cherokee Forums for first hand info from people who wrench these great vehicles every day!

    HTH

    There is also a shifter interlock cable than can get out of adjustment but the reverse lights won't be killed with that.

    The AW4 is a 4 speed tranny.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Do you have the 4-cylinder or GM V-6? I'll gladly help you with what V-6 info I have but that motor and ignition system is pretty much 'generic' to any carbureted GM vehicle. (AMC was grabbing parts from anyone it could - in this case motors from GM.)
  • benjeepinbenjeepin Member Posts: 1
    You may want to try partsamerica.com for the NSS. I priced one for my 1997 JGC for less than $70.00 Not all that hard to install.
  • m151a2m151a2 Member Posts: 1
    My 93 Cherokee w/4.0 engine will not start. If I feather the throttle alot it may start at very high rpm's. I get no codes from it. I changed just about every sensor there is a year or so ago, even the computer at 110,000 miles, it now has 130,000 miles. I have 3 jeeps with the same 4.0 and never came across this problem.

    This is how it started. I bought a 99 Jeep and was selling the 93. I had it running so it would be nice and warm for the buyer I had comming over.
    Just as the sale was almost complete the Jeep dies out and has never ran again. All I did was leave it idling for about 20 minutes.

    Any ideas out there that I may try? The last thing I changed again was the crank sensor and that's not the problem. I was thinking possibly a elec short somewhere.
  • ginkodginkod Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2001 jeep cherokee sport. I'm experiencing a no start problem only on cold starts. I turn the the key and all the lights on the dash board kind of fade in and out and it wount even crank up(the starter does not turn). After a few tries it all goes back to normal and it starts fine. I've recently replaced the crank sensor thinking that was the issue but I'm experiencing the same problem. I've had the pcm scanned and it showed error P1698-NO BUS MESSAGE FROM TRANS CONTROL MODULE. I have no idea if that is related. The check engine light is not on.
  • astemastem Member Posts: 6
    Hello to all. I have a 2001 Sport and it's in great shape. No issues and no engine lights going on. New Battery about 4 months ago. This morning she just wouldn't start. Sounds strong when I hit the ignition, but just won't turn. I didn't see a code show up, but "no bus" did show. How seriuos is this, and what do I need to do to get her fixed. THANKS
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds like starter relay it is in powre dist.center on right fender by battery should be labled

    also wiggle shifter try to start in nutral maybe safty start switch
  • timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    I had a Cherokee that sometimes wouldn't start in Park. I figured out that if I pressed forward on the shifter and turned the key, it would crank right up. It also had problems with the reverse lights not working.

    It wasn't until I had similar problems with my next Cherokee that I learned about the NSS. I bought one on eBay for $140 from jeeppartsking. My mechanic was surprised that I bought it so cheap. :)
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, the NSS switches are very simple to rebuild. Hardest part is getting them off the tranny intact as they sometimes don't want to slide off the shaft they're mounted on. The actual rebuild process is a piece of cake.

    Crown Auto Parts (online seller) also has them at a reasonable price - like the ebay deal mentioned above, which is MUCH cheaper than dealership $$$$$.

    I have a couple of links to rebuild articles on my website's "Off-Site Tech" page as well as a downloadable "how to" zip file listed on my Downloads page. (There is a link to my site earlier in this thread.)

    Again, hardest part is actual removal of NSS from tranny... takes a couple of flat pry bars to GENTLY (and slightly) wiggle the thing loose and off the shaft. Takes a bit of acrobatics with the pry bar sizes & angles - think I used a large flat blade screwdriver & a flat pry bar that had the 'right' angle to get the thing moving.

    Be sure to mark the NSS location so you can easily reinstall it without too much fuss.

    There is also a brake safety interlock that can, but rarely, goes bad.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Sorry I missed this - have you tested the cam position sensor (located in the distributor)?

    Tons of other possibilites but if you just changed the crank sensor we'll assume that's ok for now...
  • jack87jack87 Member Posts: 1
    Came home backed up to the garage uphill & shut her down...next day she will crank but will not start...any ideas...no bus 5 seems to be in the mileage "window"
  • nachojeepnachojeep Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1996 JGC. Same problem. My car cranks but it will not start. This just happend this Monday morning. I drove it on Friday and let in my drive way over the weekend.
    My mechanic tried starting it up on neural but no luck.
    BTW: When I instered my key and none of my gauges will move.
    I have 145,000 miles on it.
  • jeepknightmarejeepknightmare Member Posts: 1
    My jeep has been down for 2 weeks with that exact same problem, i had the starter relay tested and it was good. I had the "No Bus" message in my odometer, and it would crank all day long, just no fire. Someone who looked at it told me it was the computer, have you heard anything else yet?
  • morganandremorganandre Member Posts: 2
    I have replaced the rotor, plugs, and wires, I have swapped out the ignition control module, and the distributor itself and they work in another jeep cherokee. All of the fusible links were tested and work. We also swapped out the main computer and it works in the other jeep. Does anybody have an idea of why it won't spark? Thank you
  • startwaystartway Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have Cherokee jeep sport CDR 2003 with starting problem, it’s not possible to start the engine even, i try cranking attempts over 5 minutes with no result ( it’s not battery or starter problem the engine turn well ).

    But the engine run if i try to start with bushing the car (with 3 gearbox), it’s run will with good acceleration and i can go for many miles with no problems,but it did not run again if i stop the engine ,I changed fuel filter and recycle fuel cycle with no result , the car did not show any error message, any one here will have any idea where is the problem
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Cranks but no spark?

    Have ya'll checked your Crankshaft Position Sensor, located on the bellhousing just behind the driver's side of the head?

    LINK Procedure for checking Crank position sensor. LINK (Page is focused on RENIX / non-HO engines but CPS test is the same for HO or RENIX motors.)

    After that - check the CAMshaft position sensor, located in the distributor. You can LIKELY disregard this in the case of the above post where the distributor was swapped. (Unless the distributor was dropped into the motor out of time w/ the engine.)

    CAMshaft position sensor diagnostics.
  • dkwalters128dkwalters128 Member Posts: 3
    Hi- Have you figured out this problem? I have a 1995 Sport w/ 145,000 miles- ran great until 2 weeks ago...now won't start and sitting in my driveway!! The4 mech thinks perhaps the ignition coil? My greatest fear, as per this message board is that 1 week ago I bought a 2000 version and today got a 'NO BUS' message!!!! I hope I am not going to have TWO jeeps that won't start!!
    HELP! ANY advice appreciated!
  • rachel6rachel6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited with, what was thought to be a transmission problem - this was checked and there is nothing wrong with the transmission.

    The vehicle starts after a lengthy crank time - sometimes idles very fast - sometimes normal. Once in gear and driving, the vehicle shifts from a lower gear to a higher gear, without any reason, then when coming to a stop the engine stalls, will turn over and start but again after a lengthy crank time.

    I've been told that the computer needs to be replaced as the engine is not advancing properly - to take care of the crank, idle and stalling issues – (I cannot find a 1990 computer for this car – any ideas). But this shifting problem is very troublesome.

    Any ideas on or experience with either of these problems and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    change the tps first
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    There are several possibilities but let's hit the easy ones first:

    All are common issues & you may have a combo of them.

    Throttle Position Sensor, located on throttle body. Sends signal to ECU (computer) to control fuel injection, some tranny input. Relatively easy to replace and adjust but requires a $5 digital volt meter from Harbor Freight, etc to set the voltages correctly. (This is likely causing the wierd shifting issue.) These things go whacky too if the ground connection / connector is oxidized. Running a ground jumper wire helps that immensely. (As well as checking your engine's ground strap from rear,driver side of head to firewall)

    Tranny kickdown cable, goes from throttle body to transmission & has an easy to do adjustment (no tools required) but I'd have to dig up my FSM (factory service manual) to give ya the details. I'll post a 'how to' article on my Jeep website as this is a fairly common question.

    Idle Air Controller, located in throttle body regulates idle speed. Easy to remove, clean w/ carb cleaner & replace.

    Vacuum leaks are EASY to check for: With the engine running 'rough' (when it's misbehaving) you can use a windex style bottle filled with water to squirt along the intake / exhaust manifold area where it bolts to the head. It is a fairly common occurance for the manifold bolts studs to loosen up over time. Do NOT overtighten these! The studs (front most & rear most) are especially prone to snapping off! Torque sequence is posted on my site.

    Rather than post all the tiny details here - check out this page at my website for the throttle body & idle speed controller info.

    Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website - go to "On Site Tech" then "Engines" then "RENIX Sensors Diagnostics"

    HTH
  • firedog3firedog3 Member Posts: 1
    Driving my jeep on the back lawn and it just stalled. Towed it to the garage put more gas in it and it cranked and fired but wouldn't stay running. Now it won't fire at all!!!! It's my toy and hasn't been driven much lately. :sick:
  • ukspudukspud Member Posts: 1
    Hi, whilst driving today the 'check gueage' light came on, I pulled over and checked oil, water, etc and found nothing wrong. Went to restart and car wouldn't start, it was turning over but not 'catching'.
    Called RAC and after checking everything thoroughly couldn't find the problem. His reprt said 'No initial fuel delivery, starts on easy-start. Fuel pump drawing 4a (ok).
    So the car will start with carb cleaner sprayed down hose but will not restart when engine turned off.
    Any ideas anyone???
  • piprockspiprocks Member Posts: 1
    Erratic shifting in my 1990 Laredo was the EGR valve: more specifically, the EGR back-pressure transducer, which I think is only used in 89-90. It's attached to the EGR valve when you buy one, and it won't let a vacuum to the EGR valve unless there is sufficient exhaust back-pressure. The diaphragm in mine was worn out, but not completely shot, causing the EGR valve to flutter rapidly, and somehow causing erratic shifting between 2-3 and 3-4, especially under load. Try disconnecting the little, short, 90 deg tube beneath the EGR transducer, where exhaust backpressure comes from, then drive and see if one or more of your problems gets better.
  • trublsmtrublsm Member Posts: 6
    I have a 93 cherokee it only starts if I leave the key on for a few minutes, something clicks then I turn key all the way it starts most of the time . I hav'nt found the problem yet though.
  • trublsmtrublsm Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1993 grand cherokee.I get no power to the coil or fuel pump.If I leave the key in the on position for a few minutes something clicks, then I turn the key all the way, it starts. can anyone help? ,please!
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Easy & free thing to check: Swap your relay under the hood - there are a couple of them that are identical & can be swapped as a quick 'check' for a bad relay. If that "fixes" it... then it's off to the parts store for a replacement of the bad one.
  • kempertraxkempertrax Member Posts: 1
    1996 Jeep Cherokee 2WD- the car sometimes doesn't want to start (engine won't even turn). Sometimes you have to take the car out of gear and put back into park to get it to start. We've replaced the starter, but this appears not to be the problem. It is a hit and miss when this occurs, no common items to tie to a specific cause.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Here's the top three suspects for ya:

    Neutral safety switch - moving gear selector is a clue for this one. Intermittent reverse light function is another possible (& rather typical) symptom. Switch can be removed and cleaned rather than replaced. Crown Automotive (online jeep parts seller) has them for about $110... which is about 1/2 stealership cost.) You can google for a 'how to' rebuild article or hit my website http://www.lunghd.com/ & look in the On Site or Off Site Tech indexes. Also a zip file download on my downloads page.

    Brake safety interlock - press brake pedal to allow engine to start. This one should have come standard on your XJ but was installed as a recall item on my older XJ. If switch goes bad - may not allow engine to start when brake pedal is depressed.

    Column ignition switch (not the key switch... but the electrical switch located on lower half, upper side of steering column.) Another "how to" download on my site. Switch is about $20 at NAPA auto parts.
  • giwallygiwally Member Posts: 4
    It looks like a lot of problems are similar to mine, but thought i would throw mine out there too.

    My 99 Cherokee has been off and on. It will usually start on the first try, but when I get on the road it will die on me while I am driving. Most of the time I can put it in neutral and start it back up again while driving. Recently it has not been starting up as easily and I have to pull off to the side of the road for a while. when it starts, it starts like nothing is wrong. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong.

    Today, it didn't start back up and I had to have it towed. It sounds like from what i have read is that this could be the computer problem.

    :confuse: I don't know much about cars, but is this something that can be fixed easily myself. If not what kind of shop do you take it to for this kind of work?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Standard Cherokee (XJ)?
    What size engine?

    Assuming a 4.0L inline six cylinder in an XJ:

    Suspect #1: Check your engine ground strap at rear of head. It is a braided metal strap that runs from the motor to a ground point on the upper driver side engine firewall. If it's frayed / broken it can cause all kinds of intermittant wierdness (stalling/stumbling/electrical issues). You can replace those with a generic battery cable from your local auto parts store.

    Suspect #2: Try checking the Crankshaft Position Sensor output with a digital volt meter. Crankshaft position sensor is located on bellhousing, just behind head, to driver side and is easily disconnected for testing with the small connector going to it. Removal and replacement is a royal pain in the butt but if you have a good set of tools can readily be done at home.

    Procedure is the same for all year 4.0L engines and can be found on my website's "RENIX Sensor's Diagnostics Page". ( http://www.lunghd.com - look in engine category of "On Site Tech") MOST other tests there will not apply to your HO engine as they have different sensors than the older RENIX engines.

    If discussing this with a mechanic, be aware that the ChryCo service procedures refer to this as a CKS (CRANK-shaft Position Sensor). It is also commonly referred to as a CPS but the CPS is actuallythe CAM-shaft Position Sensor which is located inside the "distributor" housing of 'most' 4.0L engines.

    There are other things that can cause similar issues... these are just the top two that come to mind. HTH
  • cojoolascojoolas Member Posts: 1
    hello all...i own a 1990 4.0 cherokee bought from original owners...with all the repair paper work...im having some issues and was hoping the pros could help me out...so here goes...

    1.ruff start...takes about 3-5 seconds...cold or hot...

    2.occationally after start it will rev at 2000rpms...sometimes it will last a second or two and drop to the norm...but sometimes it stays at 2000...if i hit the gas it will creep to 2500 and stay...so i turn off then restart...no problems...

    3.occationally when i come to a stop there seems to be a knock or slight jerk...when it does not occur when i go to accelerate same little knock/jerk...

    im thinking...fuel pump, air/vacum, old hoses...

    other than that i am very happy...would like to know if the problems may be related or if someone may know what the cause is...
    any insite would be a life saver...truthfully...
    thanks...
  • giwallygiwally Member Posts: 4
    It is a 4.0L inline six cylinder in an XJ I believe.

    This is what has happened so far. It was towed to the shop and they replaced the Idle Air Control which they said was completely blown out. The Jeep worked fine for a day until the battery died. Don't know if these were related, but my battery was pretty old.

    Now its back in the shop and they are saying it is the Engine Computer that is not functioning properly. Anyone else had this problem?

    Any ideas on what these cost? The shop cannot seem to find one for my jeep without sending off to the repair place.
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    XJ = standard Cherokee (NOT Grand Cherokee)

    IAC - usually just needs cleaning - gets carbon / gunk on it & sticks. They do go bad but it's usually just stuck & mucking up the idle speed.

    As for the ECU (computer) those can be picked up at salvage yards, online Jeep forums etc. IF I remember correctly... (BIG IF!) from mid 90's & on up the newer XJ's do have a voltage regulator built into the ECU, (CONFIRM THIS!)... If the regulator is fried... no battery charge.

    You can check to see if the battery is charging free at any AutoZone / Advance / etc that will do a free battery / charging system check.

    HTH
  • lrichterlrichter Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee, with 120000 miles on it, that's experiencing some weird problems. Ocassionally the Jeep will lose acceleration and at the same time, the turn signals will stop working. The engine totally died on one occasion and had to have it towed. Took it to a Firestone Automotive shop and replaced the idle air control, fuel system tune-up and a new battery installation. Jeep worked fine for about two weeks until it experienced the same problems. The Jeep again lost acceleration and the emergency and turn signals did not work. The Jeep did restart again. Engine diagnostic analysis again could not find any problems. Does it sound like an electrical problem such as BCM?
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    Crankshaft Position Sensor is always a suspect when things like this happen so next time it stalls / won't start try the unplug trick. Ya just unplug & reconnect the CPS connector and sometimes that will clear enough oxidation from the connector pins to let a bit of extra voltage signal reach the computer. This is not something ya want to swap out beside the road at 5AM so test the CPS following the general procedure at the bottom of this page and if it's bad - replace it. Easiest to replace if ya drop the transmission cross-member w/ a floor jack about 2".

    (This is the one I suspect in your case.) Check the ground straps especially from the driver side of the head to the driver side of the firewall.
    This page is for an earlier model XJ but AFAIK all the grounds are still run the same in later models. Jeep Cherokee Ground Straps These things cause all kinds of wierdness when they start oxidizing and/or get damaged / disconnected.

    Check the electrical ignition switch - lower half, on top side of steering column. There is a downloadable "how to replace" zip file on my site if that's the problem.

    Does it do this under any repeatable circumstances? (ie - always same distance from home, left turns, etc.... or just random?)
  • lrichterlrichter Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the awesome info. I forgot to add that another problem that happens with the jeep, alongside the reduced acceleration and non working turn signal, is that the jeep shakes before it konks out. Would a CPS problem cause major electrical problems, ie turn signal or dashboard problems? I'm probably going to take it to a Jeep dealer to have it looked at, but I sure would like to know what the problem is beforehand. By the way, the problem usually happens when the car is on the freeway, travelling a higher speeds.
  • giwallygiwally Member Posts: 4
    I had similar problems with my 99 Jeep. After I replaced the Idle Air Control, I had to get a new battery and then I had to replace the ECU Computer. After the computer was replaced, the keys would not work so I had to get a new key, a Crank Position Sensor and something else called the R&R ECU. I just got it back from the shop today. After $1500, it runs great now except now my oil pressure is dropping when I stop and the check gauges light is coming on. Any help with this one? I don't want to take it back to the shop and put more money into it. I think this will be the last Jeep I ever buy, but if it can last me a few more years I will take it.
  • wolfman4wolfman4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 cherokee that will start, but as soon as you let off of the key it will die. There is a new fuel pump and filter on. Put a new ignition switch in today and it still has the same problem. If I bump the start as it dies, sometimes it will stay running. Any help would be greatly appreaciated
  • enzo7enzo7 Member Posts: 1
    just wondering if any one can help me out. 4L straight 6. car wont idle when cold, once hot no problem. help me
  • lunghdlunghd Member Posts: 61
    #1 suspect w/ just that info: Idle Control Valve / IAS / idle stepper motor. (different names for the same thing).

    Located in throttle body, easily removed and cleaned w/ carb cleaner.

    What year?
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