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Thanks for the tip Amers2. Will report back when I've sorted out what I'm going to do re-DVD installation.
BTW Am I the only person driving around with the bug deflector. It was free so I kept it on but now I'm thinking it sort of looks ugly. The dealer also threw in the wind-deflector for the sunroof - this I highly recommend (It was a showroom model).
Left the truck the next day. Got a voicemail in the afternoon telling me that they checked the tires and everything is within spec. They even checked for bent or loose parts but didn't find any. Next thing they did was compare the tires on my Montero with 3 brand new Monteros on their lot. They said all 4 Monteros looked the same so they would consider the leaning as normal. No adjustment is necessary.
So picked up the truck and on my way home got rear-ended by this guy who is learning how to drive, doesn't have a license, a pending insurance from a no-name company, and the worst part is, he doesn't speak english.
Anyway. Going back to the issue at hand. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the tires leaning in, wouldn't it produce uneven wear on the tires.
I read on a post before that someone is considering replace his stock tires because of uneven wear. I believed he mentioned the inside was wearing more that the outside. Could this have been because of the leaning? Is the leaning normal on the Montero? Wouldn't this affect the handling?
I also noticed that sometimes there is a slight vibration between 50-60mph. Feels like the whole truck is vibrating. I read on previous posts something about this and don't remember exactly what the fix was. Was it the tires?
Thanks guys.
Not only do they have the 0% for 3 years and 0 for a year, but they also offer 0% for 5 years financing on the Monty. Pretty good deal, but it's hard to get over that 8-9k depreciation drop in the first year (that's private sale, not trade-in). Used is looking better.
Based on 2001 models compared to original cost here are the rough numbers. The Sequoia and LC could be a bigger drop if you also found that Toyota would not go below MSRP when you went shopping. When I got my Montero I could get them below MSRP. But making things equal here it is.
Price one should ask for when selling, 15K miles, 2001 models all in excellent shape, all fairly loaded.
Toyota LC
By Edmunds: ~ 43k
By KBB ~45k
Toyota Sequoia
Edmunds: ~ 39k
Kelly Blue book ~41K
Montero LTD
Edmunds ~24k
Kbb ~29k
This makes the drop off in price from MRSP for the respective SUV to be approx.
LC: - 11k (edmunds) - 9k (kbb)
Seq: -5k (edmunds) -3k (Kbb)
Montero -9k (edmunds), -5K (kbb)
So, by value and given the best of the numbers above the LC is about 83% of its original value, the Montero comes in at 84% and the Sequoia trounces them both at 92%.
I understand these are rough numbers but probably not too far off from reality. So, value? That depends. The Montero is on par in ride quality, off road ability and quality to the LC yet at a fraction of the cost and with about the same resale drop. The LC is the gold standard in my mind and has dropped the most of the three so for some this might be a good choice.
Perhaps buying two Monteros instead of one LC would be the ticket!
I have a Yakama hitch that clears the rear tire, I also made a platform that can hold an ice chest, etc but mounted fork mounts on one end so that it could carry bikes as well.
If I were going for a new bike rack it would be one that the bikes mount in to not one that they hang from if you know what I mean.
Reportedly even the LC benefits greatly with the use of thier kits.
The Montero kit raises the clearance by 1.5 inches, stiffens the suspension a little and the shocks are supposed to have better compression and rebound settings that the inexpensive stock shocks do not provide.
I just hope it does not make the Montero too stiff.
Thanks for any help.
We decided to get a used Monty. So what does a plug change/tune-up cost?
I use a yakama bike rack that holds the bikes by the frame with two arms sticking out to the rear. It does clear. I think the hitches can only go in one spot but it is possible your hitch reciever portion is in just a little more than mine. In that case why dont you just add an extension piece at the reciever. These are not too expensive and you can adjust out how far you want your bike rack.
Again, if I was buying a new rack I would get the one where the bikes "sit on it". Either fork mounted or with both tires still one the bike, I have seen both. The second option allows you to keep the front wheels with the bike, hence, you dont have to pack them elsewhere. If done correctly this will also allow you to open the back door with the bikes off the rack.
I have tried all kinds of racks on cars and the ones behind the car always seemed better.
Towing
I am able to hold 55mph with my 3300lbs trailer in 4th at 3000 I think it is. I rarely if ever use the 5th (overdrive) and I found out from my friends who have large pickups that they dont either. In fact, when I told them I had to climb some steeper hills at 45mph they didnt even flinch because thats what they have to do with the heavier trailers anyway. So.....its a diesel ford F250-350 with 350hp and 600ft pounds if we want to tow better. Apparently the gas trucks dont do much better unless you get the V10's and then gas milage drops to 9-11.
New old man emu suspension goes on the Monte Tuesday, hope I made a good call here.
Where did you purchase OME suspension? Overlander? Or ? Price? Installation Price?
Thanks in Advance.
PHOnos
Price: 529 or 49 I think, includes shipping, 4 springs, 2 rear shocks 2 front struts.
It is being put in as I write, no supprises from the shop so far. I was going to do it myself but he is only charging $150 including a 4 wheel alignment which was going to cost me some 50 bucks anyway so I said what the heck.
Will be able to drive it today I hope and I hope I made the right choice, this makes me a little nervious knowing how good the stock suspension is.
Appearence:
2.5 inch lift front and rear. Will take some getting used to but not to the point where it looks like some kids car overdone. They had told me 1.5 inches which would have been high enough for me but they have also said that after 500miles I can expect the springs to setting down by up to 3/4 inches.
Performance:
Definite improvement on washboard. Where I had to "speed up" a little with the stock suspension on washboards to get the ride a little smoother it seems that I can take them at any speed with increased comfort.
Lateral roll.....what roll? I was able to comfortably slide the rear out on a gravel road without a hint of roll. On the street (dont try this at home) I was just starting to break the rear loose, no serious roll, when I decided to take it easy for a while. Seems that although comfort is maintained the combo of different valved shocks and perhaps 10-20% stiffer springs with variable rate in the back has resulted in a better ride AND handling. No, I dont work for these guys.
It also seems a little more quite in the inside. I have seen this before when I put aftermarket shocks on my car. I dont know if it is reducing the vibration through the suspension better. The stock Montero is excellent to begin with.
Also, on braking and little turns there is no nose diving down for the most part and the little giggles are 50-75% reduced.
This is still a soft suspension for those concerned that it would be too stiff as I did. My understanding is that there are a set of springs above mine that are even stiffer.
Going on a longer trip to the Mountains next week, will post my "longer term update" when I return.
Overall, other than the ride height that I will need to get used to I am very pleased.
Front ground clearence: to bottom of licence plate 22.5 inches
Rear to bottom of reciever hitch 13 inches and this looks like the lowest part of my Montero now. Of course the A arms are lower but they move up with the tires so I dont think ground clearence is measured here.
I'm seriously jealous. I want 'em. Where did you get 'em. I have to know.
-P
Cant I be the first 2001 raised Montero on the block for a little longer
You might want to jack up you front and rear 2.5-3 inches and see if it looks too funny for you before making the big plunge. I dont think you will be unhappy with the handling. It certainly is not worse in any way.
If you want me to update you after I pound around on it a little more I will let you know. Otherwise I got the whole thing shipped to me for $547.
Parts OME109S, OME914, OMEN110, OME917
From Overlander 800-288-4068
You can also talk to the importers who I think are ARB in Seattle, WA for info.
I have a pending question with them reguarding the cup that that front spring sits on. It may be that they sent me the wrong cup but they are not sure yet. You might want to let me clear this up. If it is the wrong one then I may need to take the front stuts out again which is no little task. The rears you could easily do yourself. Jacking up the rear decompresses the springs so they just fall out and the shocks are simple. The fronts "were fairly easy" but unless you have worked with stuts before I would have someone do them for you.
I had a 4 wheel alignment as well. My tires seem to be leaning a little (tho oppisite way from the sagging looking stock look) but he assured me they are dialed right in to the stock settings. Makes me think that some of the reports of tire wear may be in fact to do the Monteros coming out of the factory without being at the stock settings
I am going to speak to a 4wd specialist about this and see if what I am seeing is an issue as long as the caster, camber, toe in are factory specs.
Steve
In your case, not wanting any lift, you'll probably have to have higher load rate springs (with a somewhat shorter "free length" than stock) wound.
However, the calculations for the springs for such a modification are tricky (length, rate, etc), but it can be done. A spring winding shop should be able to help you.
Also, it probably won't be inexpensive for having just 2 front and 2 rear springs wound.
With the lift, do you think 275 or even 285-75x16 (although not recommended on 7-inch wide rims, supposedly you need 8-inch) tires would work without any interferences?
Did you ever find anything out about the availability of any speedometer correction modifications for going with 265-75 rather than the stock 265-70 tires?
What's weird was, the check engine light turned OFF by itself the next day. I thought that those lights don't turn off by itself and need to be reset by the dealer.
http://www.outdoorwire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=69;t=006418
Dont know what caused it. I thought it was the service light indicating service reminder.
Back from Tahoe, light 4wding, good fast highway driving. Hwy 5 down and 395 via Susanville and 89 on the way north for those of you who might know the roads.
Impression
Still a great improvement. Wife said the roll was much less. Since she sits in the back a lot with the baby this was important in reducing motion sickness.
Cornering improved, ride quality not "stiffer" in an unpleasant way. In fact, still on the soft side.
I would say that washboard bumps still are a pain at certain speeds but the feeling is muted now and not so "sharp".
Large hits are better.
Overall, I am very happy and could recommend this to anyone wanting roughly 2.5 inches increased height, improved cornering (roll) without a loss in quality of the ride.
Please note, I was sent the wrong front strut plates and was sent replacements that need to now go in. Be sure you get the right plates the first time. It took the Austrailian maker to figure this out as it seemed the US supplier had the wrong plates in thier strut boxes as well.
I must say that they were very nice to correct the problem for me and they sent me the correct plates.
This should correct the front end being just slightly higher than the rear when it should be just slightly lower.
Rear clearence with over 500miles on the springs stands at 13inches to the bottom of my rear hitch. I dont see an area under 12inches now. This puts it just about an inch higher clearence than the 4 runner and anything else out there other than perhaps the Hummer.
I measured and it looks like you could probably go up a full inch in diameter (1/2 inch radius closer to the fender) and still be OK but I would want to double check again and see if it would work with chains.
Since I didnt measure before the lift I dont know how much clearence is there in stock config.
I have not found out about the electronic adjustment, or lack thereof, when replacing with larger tires. I sure hope they thought of this because it seems the new Geolanders are a little different in size but have a more aggressive tread in the A/T model. They also rated very high, 1st or 2nd if I recall
Susanville used to be a great little town. We used to go deer hunting just north of there, up toward Eagle Lake. Did you stop in McCloud, that area is a beautiful place too.
I know what you mean about the front fender clearance. Never thought about chains, thanks for the heads-up.
When you have time, could you measure the overall maximum height on level ground (from ground to highest point on vehicle, probably center-forward on the top rails)
Thanks in advance, I want to know if I need to replace my tilt-up garage door with a roll-up for the 265x75-16's or 275x75-16's.
Did you see my bitchin' about the Oregon Sand Dunes NRA over on your post at Outdoorwire?
New front height is down about 1.25 inches and is now below the rear, as it should be, and I think it makes a handling and look improvement but this could also be wishfull thinking. Overall, it looks great and not like some young kid jacking his SUV 10 inches in the air.
As far as measuring the height I will try and do that this weekend. Will measure to some obvious area since I am not sure what you mean by top rails. Will measure away from my hitch since those who dont have them will have a better comparison. Would like you to give me the same measurements back on stock so we can see the over change.
As far as McCloud, I fly fish, so I like all those kinds of areas. Live in So Oregon, fly fishing paradise. Seems the retirees have found out about this place to.
As far as the Sand Dunes, dont get me started. I bought a 2002 KTM 520 EX/C and have to travel up to 3-5 hours to ride sometimes just to get to an area "the environmentalists" have not sued someone to close to everyone but hikers.
By the way, no fire ever started by a motorcycle in Southern Or hx but we are excluded from the forrest right now (which is probably OK give the high risk), but it is the hikers that have started most of the fires (some of which intentional) yet you dont see the forrest restricted to hiking (thank goodness). Just goes to show policy often doesnt follow evidence based results
At least they havent restricted my ability to hike in and fly fish most the of areas I enjoy but I'm sure someones working on this too.
Off soapbox now
Garage issue: Yes, for those of you planning the lift and add a bike rack on top check out your garage door height. Had extra foot higher door put on new house garage to clear everything but perhaps a space case but I am going to measure now and see if that will clear with the extra foot. That would be nice.
Parked it next to a friends older LC. The rear of mine has more clearence, middle a little more and the front is more as well with and exception. They did a better job of getting the front fender up and out of the way of rocks on the LC where the Monte has the front fenders hanging down. The LC front suspension and drive components will hit before the raised Montero.
I plan to go with the Yok Geo A/T rather than the stock H/T next time and possibly with the next size larger which is an LT vs P tire, dont know the difference yet but it would result in a radius increase of about 0.5 inches so add that on to ground clearence.
The rears should easily accept chains with this larger tire but would have to check the front on extreme turns. There is a debate about where 4wd should be chained but I usually would go to the rear tires. Some say front so you pull the front end to avoid steering difficulties on ice, I dont know. Heck, I havent even come close to needed the chains.
Also, FYI. If you get the kit remember that in 500miles they will drop a little. It was enough that the shop realigned my 4 wheels again. Dont know if it would be best to put them on drive 500 miles and then align. That might save money but I am not sure if you would prematurely wear your tires over that distance.
Good luck
Steve
My local dealer said there was no program available to them to flash in a different tire size. I hope more of you out there will call your dealers and keep your ears open because this may be possible.
I have almost 30K on my 2001 XLS.
Would be interested to know what mileage has been an average for this kind of a warning . Would a dealership reset it under the warranty and has any one ever gotten the info about what could have caused this.
Mine is 3.5 inches from end of receiver to outer most part of bumper. The rack people said they wouldn't put and extension on hitch for the racks weren't engineered to be used that way, whatever that means. I'm tempted to getting another hitch, but don't know what route to go. I still can't find a rack that will clear the tire.
By top rails, I meant the factory stock load rails on the roof. Sorry I wasn't clear on this item (actually, I couldn't remember what they're called at the time [the mind is the second thing to go when one ages, and I can't remember what the first is]).
-Paul