Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2019 Ford Mustang GT Premium, 2016 Kia Optima SX, 2013 Ford F-150 King Ranch, 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic
Thank you very much for your input!
I personally am in a similar position where I don't put too many miles on the car, but I live in extreme heat, so I did my first oil change after the "break-in" period of 1000 miles and then do them at 3000 mile intervals because it's mostly city driving.
in the old days,they used to put in a special high viscosity "break-in" oil when the car was new, but now-a-days, with the better piston rings and better tolerances on moving parts, they effectively did away with breaking in the engine.
The break-in period of the S.Fe's engine is more for the adaptive transmission learning, but I still changed the oil after the first 1000 miles to get rid of any particles that may have accumulated from the wear-in of the moving parts.
Most service departments,of course, will recommend every 3000 miles using regular oil- synthetics last longer without breaking down.
In the search box on the front page, type in front air bags and it will bring up the previous posts about this well known issue and what others have experienced.
Also go to the website of the Government Office of Defects Investigation complaints page(www.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints) and check out Hyundai Santa Fe 2007 - there you will see on the first page 21 claims for front airbag sensor complaints.
Unfortunately, these have been happening since the first vehicles were made in 2006. No-one seems to know whether it is just a malfunctioning sensor, or if it actually does keep the airnags from deploying, or if it is badly postioned seat weight sensors, or even at what design weight the sensor activates.
For instance, if it is a 100 lbs. then that brings up safety questions for small adults and children in the front seat.
Hope you get it resolved.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Then I try something in the uphill (but it has a very small grade): drive to a position in the uphill, stop and park it. Then switch to “D” again, the car CANNOT stop and start retrogress. At this time, I push the gas pedal harder, then the car begins move forward with jerking.
This is a brand new car and I did not drive it a lot. I do not do oil change or any maintenance yet.
Went to my nearest dealer this morning and they said there IS a problem in the transmission:
No codes in system - internal mechanical concern - low pressure at idle possible pump failure in trans.
But they refused to work on it and advice me to bring it to the dealer where I purchased it. So I drove to the dealer where I bought and still waiting for their test.
That is bad, it only has slight above 1600 miles :mad: .
Does anybody have the similar problem?
Has anyone else been able to see title and artist info on MP3 discs?
I burned data CDs. I even tried CDs made using Windows Media Player 11 and iTunes. iTunes puts all files on the root folder, while WMP retains the folder structure organized by artist and albums. WMP also includes a playlist on the CD. CDs made using Nero were pure data CDs with only MP3 files, and no playlists.
All have the same problem - no song titles, and worse yet, all songs say "TRACK 1" no matter what song is playing. I can skip forward and back, but the display seems like it has lost all of its intelligence.
On a slightly related note, it has problems skipping over songs on regular audio CDs. It will play though, but once I skip a song, it gets stuck and loops at the first 1 second of any song indefinitely. I find it hard to believe this and the MP3 problem are related, but maybe they are.
Looks like I need to make a trip to the dealer to see what the other SF's do with these same CDs.
After the transmission replacement, I notice the MPG is lower than before. For all highway drive, I can get 24mpg now while it was 25mpg before. I get 16mpg in the city while it was 19mpg before. I went to the dealer and they said the car's computer needs time to adjust to the new transmission and I should get better MPG after several thousands miles.
And there is a small dent in the door after the replacement. I do not notice that when I picked it up after they replaced the transmission. Should I report this to Hyundai customer service?
I also notice that the noise is higher than before when driving on the highway. But it is not very significant. Maybe it is just psychological effect?
Are you in the USA? What city, state if so?
Thanks for alerting others to this.
I am in Chicagoland, IL.
Thanks
Another weird one is that air comes out onto the windshield in floor mode (says so in the manual as well) so let me ask, then why have a Bi-mode windshield\floor when the floor mode does the same thing???
In other words the Auto Climate Control is attempting to kill two birds with one stone - heat up the the cabin from the floor (hot air rises) and use the A/C to de-fog the windshield and side windows, as well as turn on the heated mirrors and heating strips for a while.
Thanks!
This is especially true if pedestrians can hear it as you drive by at slow speeds on quiet, smaller roadways.
I know this because General Motors settled a class action lawsuit regarding V8 model pickup trucks over this very same issue (years 1998 through 2002, I believe).
Of course, Hyundai may not settle, choosing instead to contest it. But General Motors even settled with owners who had 100,000 miles or more on their vehicles and admitted that there was an issue with the tolerance of the piston chambers.
Anyone else going thru this?
I'm aware of a TSB article documenting a rear creaking sound, but I read on another thread that one owner had to have this Sante Fe replaced because of this underyling problem.
What gives with the rear quarter panel?
This problem is documented in TSB 08-BD-008-1. The documented fix involves boring holes into the sheet metal around the storage area and adjusting the welding between two panels, essentially prying one panel away from another.
To my relief, the fix has addressed the problem without causing additional issues. I was afraid such an invasive procedure would result in additional noises from the rear of the vehicle.
The passenger seat will heat up when set on high or low just fine (takes awhile) but it does heat up, however after 10 minutes or so it turns off and will not come back on again (switch stays on though). Took it into the dealer who claimed they replaced the seat pad or something (seat looks the same to me) but it still works the same.
The drivers seat will heat up fine then will turn off for about 10 min then turn back on and continue to cycle like this until the button it turned off. I am also not sure if this is normal, but it is much better then my passenger seat.
Any insight would be appreciated before I am back to the dealer again. Can anyone tell me if their Santa Fe leather seat heaters work in the same way so I can confirm?
Thanks.
As far as the cycling you mention, I would think this is a normal function of the heating element, as it needs to regulate itself from overheating. This is easily observed in any toaster or toaster oven. The heating element "glows" for a a few minutes, disengages, then re-engages.
As for the cycling, that I can understand, I have observed it on other cars too, what bothers me is the passenger side does not do this, it just turns off after one cycle while the switch remains on. If the passenger side cycled on-going as the drivers side does I would have assumed it was normal, it does not.
If anyone else can comment on the operation of there seats it would be most appreciated.