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Jeep Liberty Diesel EGR Problems

24

Comments

  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    winter2: I was under the impression that the Fed. EPA required all stations in the US to have the change over by Oct. 15, 06. There are a few stations that have not put on the new sticker on the pump because they have not pumped the required numver of gallons of diesel to the point where they can put the sicker on. Perhaps that may be the reason DC? I don't think the fuel quality is too much of a problem here that I am aware of.
    PBS has a program on "Willy-Bio" As Willy Nelson is involved with others that are producing B-100 from cotton seed oil. From there is goes to a place wich mixes it to sell to stations. Most of the big rigs that used B-20 seemed to be pleased, not by the preformance, but because of the dependance upon foriegn oil is less. I did use B-20 and noticed a loss of fuel mileage and rougher ideling, not a lot but enough to notice. I would use up to B-10 IFthere was a station that carried Bio fuel with in my area. I do agree thatfor a 2.8 L 4 cyclender engine this has the torque to move quick, and the economy that is like that of a compact car.
    My issues are not with the price to maintain the CRD or even the recalls or re-flashes. I am most upset that that when we have a problem few know how to take care of the problem. The replace and elimanate, trial by error method is sorta ok as long as it does not require so much time and the miles it puts on with me paying for the fuel to go back and forth to get the issue resolved. One problem took 5 trips before the problem was resolved.
    Right now everything is covered by 1 to 2 inches of solid ice, here. I doubt anyone on our hill can move, unless they have studs in their tires. So our fuel is lasting much longer than normal, it is now 27 F here, we expecting 4 F tommrow. I just might try starting the
    "green Beast" tommrow to see how it does without the block heater on.

    farout
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Farout,

    I have tried to start my CRD at +9 F sans block heater and it started just fine on the first try. Rather noisy though but that is typical for a diesel.

    I have a better appreciation for your dilemma, namely finding competent service and competent technicians. So far I have been lucky and do have a good service technician who is pretty smart. What I have learned is that when any manufacturer brings a whole new design on line, that there are issues in terms of repairing it right the first time. Even the vaunted Toyota and Honda owners suffer from the same malady with totally new systems.

    Have tried as high as B20 and have experienced no issues in terms of performance or altered FE. Ran quieter though and had less vibration. There are no local stations that sell biodiesel. Closest on is about 25 miles north of here and they have B5. Have used that a few times and the CRD runs fine on that.

    As to the USLD issue, EPA does not require all stations to carry ULSD. Up to 20% of diesel fuel can still be S500. I believe that by 2010, all diesel must be S15.

    Enjoy your ice storm. Hope you do not have a power outage.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    winter2: The b-20 did run quieter, but ran rough. If the quality of the ULSD is a problem or if 20% of the stations still have the old diesel and add a b-20 old fuel this may be the reason the b-20 responded as it did.
    Our Green Beast is sealed in one and a half inch of ice. Now as the snow has started up, with ice and snow it does have a rather airodynamic look. The windshield is sloped from the top of the windshield to the front top of the grill is sloped and looks real cool! We can't even open the doors. We have not lost any power, but close to 100,000 home are with out electric and water, with little hope of reconnections until Wed. or Thurs. However our road up to our home has more than 2" of ice and only a fool would attempt going up or down. Missouri is a neat state because we get a wide varity, and we love green all over the place. We lived Phoenix and we hated the one hundred twenty + degrees, and the humid summers. We love it here. This state is a very good place to retire.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, I saw on TV the damages caused by the ice storm where you live. Montreal also had a very bad one a few years ago :sick:
    When you have to drive downhill on an icy road, remember that the ABS has a strange behavior: when you use the brakes, the wheels block easily and the ABS loosens the brakes to let the tires grip again. During the time given to resume adherence, the transmission pulls the truck again. So you cannot stop the truck going downhill while the transmission is engaged. The ABS will stop you safely when you are in neutral (going down an icy slope of course).

    Last but not least: forget the 4WD Part-Time on ice. This truck has a short wheelbase and rapidly slides sideways. Once it starts to get out of hand either you stop sliding naturally, either you engage the 4WD Full-Time and take control after a few "irrational trajectories". Try it once and you can repeat the recovery sequence fairly easily. It's quite pleasant to know how to recover a safe drive.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Your advice is very much appreciated, thank you. With the CRD I have never used the part-time yet, we leave it in full-time on our dirt/rock/gravel/ roads. On pavement we take it out of full-time, unless it's needed.
    Last night it got down to -25C. Notice I used the C temp for you, I thought you might like that. We have 2" of ice covered with 1" of packed snow. My wife and I have been iced in here from last Thurs. night, and until the ice gets soggy we are not moving. Ice is not something I intend to deal with on the very steep hill we live on the top of. The ice- cycles on the eves of the house are mostly 18" long.
    The Green Beast is frozen solid and doors and hood don't even come close to wanting to budge open. I am glad we are retired because there is no way anyone beyond our our home down the road are going any place. Gas generators are at a huge demand. The home improvement chain stores are issuing numbers to people and as the generators come in by the truck load. Most generators sell for $1,295.00 Finding gasoline has been a problem in Springfield MO, and several other places. Because the electricity being out, along with some houses that just can't keep enough heat has had the Red Cross, and Salvation Army have opened many places so people can be fed and sleep and kept warm. I have never seen so many people who really needed to be in these centers. I think on the Lake of the Ozarks there are about 10 to 15 such places. We have a Waterford Wood Stove ( made in Ireland) that we use for heat. This we can also cook on if we needed to. We designed our home to be so if we got stranded we could be fine for several weeks if we had to. It really feels good to be independent and self reliant. Has this winter been bad for you?

    Farout
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Maybe you'd like to move to Portland?

    King5 video
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout... Must be something to see the snow untouched, here in florida has been very hot A/C run all day today, is very hot for the winter. Is your CRD doing as it should after the F37, do you think that gas mileage is doing ok, my seems to me that is not doing so good, maybe is my imagination but maybe not.

    Nescosmo.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I had mine in for the F37 and replacement of the EGR flow control valve. It has 61000 miles on it.
    The tech pulled out a lot of "gunk". They blamed it on the Rotella 5W40 and PowerService.
    I am blaming it on the CCV system design.
    I wonder if it will plug up the intake manifold to the point where it won't run right, I remember an earlier post about VW having that problem.
    Any thoughts?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, you guys stole our winter. We have close to +15C and blue sky.
    I can report about using winterized fuel during warm weather :blush:
    Believe it or not, I get summer mileage now. So the temperature seems to play a very important role in the injection parameters.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The technician at the local dealer mentioned the "gunk" that gets into the system. I find it strange that a fuel additive that gets consumed in the combustion process would contribute to anything save for more blowby which diesel engines by their nature have more of than gassers. I used the Power Service products for several tankfuls and could find no discernible difference over the RedLine product I use consistently. The oil could be a contributor if it has a high vaporization rate and according to the tech, those using the recommended Mobil 1 0W-40 have lots of "gunk" in the intake system.

    Frankly, I do not know what to say at this point. I have switched over to Amsoil 5W-40 "CJ" rated oil and will watch the aftercooler hoses to see how much "gunk" they accumulate. If I start seeing an increase in "gunk" in the aftercooler hoses then I will switch back to the 15W-40 synthetic from Amsoil. While using that oil, the aforementioned hoses remained nearly dry with only a tiny bit of "gunk" that settled in the lowest portion of the hoses.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    That is nothing usual. They drive like that on dry pavement in the metro Washington D.C. area.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, I do get on I-66 and 81 almost every year visiting my sister but I'm usually able to avoid the Beltway. Glad I'm not commuting in that mess.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    This video is frightening. I don't understand how a car can turn around and accelerate at the same time :sick:
    Or are we seeing the effects of the ABS system when a person's last reflex is to slam the brakes and wait?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I could be mistaken, but at least one of those bumper cars looked to be a 4WD SUV too. :surprise:
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: It brakes my heart to hear how you are suffering in the hot miserable heat, in the winter no less.
    I can't say with certianty about fuel mileage, as we have not even used a tank full yet. It may be a little less or the same, I just don't know yet. However, the shifts are more noticeable and firmer to feel. This is not bad as the soft smooth shift actually wares down the clutches, as the tec told me. One other thought is the winter fuel does not give as good of mpg, so some way this too has to be entered in to the fuel mileage.
    Frankly i I think the F37 is a lot about not too much. I see it that we have a new torque converter, and my case it's after putting on 27,500 miles on the old one.
    What kind and weight oil are you using? I went back to Mobile 1 5-40w after 8,000 miles on Shell Rotella 5-40w. That oil seemed to me to become sorts sluggy on the dip stick and the engine seemed more noisy. Besides the Rotella synthetic is not being repoduced.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: Your advice about going down hill in "N" was a Godsend!!!!!! Our daughter came up our hill, when no one else has! She did not know no one has made it up say nothing about making it down. But.... she attempted to, thinking she could just drive down. I went back and looked at your advice. Almost as slow as a snail. She hugged the side of the hill that has a rough dirt and rock covered with ice. She kept it in neutral and made it. Your advice was a life saver! Thank you so very, very much!!!!!!

    Farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout I use Rotella 5w-40 and believe it or not the only other oil that i can find is the Amsoil which is too expensive; i know that Rotella is very noisy oil and i still can get it in the syn formula if it goes then dino will have to do but for sure i will never use mobil 0w-40.

    Nescosmo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, I'm so pleased someone else tried my observation and found if safer to brake over ice. :shades: :shades:

    But I wish more people could bring this to public attention. I have the feeling there is a bug in the logic of the ABS system. When we have the brake peddle pressed the transmission should never re engage. But who should hear this? From my side of the pond I'm just another "Don Quichotte"
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Our daughter asked me to thank you so very much. The drive down our hill is about 2,000 feet at about a 40 degree slope. She was scared to death, and cried several times, but she did it in 45 minuets, and it was a snails pace. In fact I am sure a snail could have made the trek sooner. So from all three of us (me, my wife, and daughter) are so blessed that you made your post when you did.
    The Liberty she drives is a 2006 Sport gas. The Liberty does have the EST and brake assist, and anti roll over stuff. With all that added heck, do we need a driver?
    I was able to pull the 3 inches of ice off the hood, but the windshield has some long line cracks. When I can get out of here I will get the glass replace. The "Green Beast" starts right up and no smoke and using no block heater. Thanks again. Any other ideas to help in case of.....?

    Farout
  • ucanfarmucanfarm Member Posts: 33
    Living in Alabama been remembering my days of on the ice and snow. (Not Here lol) Can't say I miss them. But do have one other tip that helped me a lot. Generally I prefer a stiff tire in the realm of 40 to 50 lbs. Lower rolling resistance, better tire wear, and greater tire load capacity. When EVER the snow and ice Hit I would always lower my pressure drastically to a mushy tire like low, low, as long as the rim would not hit the payment. Most likely it would of been like 10 lbs. Found that this gave quite an edge on the slick snot. Just a warning on ice and snow the sidewall would disapate the heat from the low pressure in the wet snow and ice easy with the low speeds. Make sure when the roads start to clear one must reinflate the tire to normal pressure.
  • ktangktang Member Posts: 2
    Today is day 22. My 06 liberty diesel has been in the shop for 22 days, under 5000km on the thing! I was driving one day when all the warning lights on the dash started coming on. I pulled over and turned the jeep off. It hasn't started since. First they thought it was the alternator, then a module for the alternator(???). They have "narrowed" it down to a computer problem. The service department has contacted every technician in Canada for assistance, with no luck. They are now working their way through the U.S. Customer service for Chrysler Canada have been useless. They keep telling me they are doing everything they can. Unfortunately there are no lemon laws in Canada, so it seems like I am screwed. Keep asking if they are going to give me a new car and they keep telling me nothing like this has ever happened before. Anyone had similar experiences?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout, I just collected another 'recipe' from a colleague living on a mountain nearby:
    - Cold ashes from a fireplace are supposed to be excellent for a tire to grip on ice.
    When you get stuck in an icy shallow pit that forms around your wheels by digging through snow or ice, there is usually no chance to pull out. Just sparkle a handful of ashes on the ice and around the tire. I've never tried this but I believe those who live in eagle nests :blush:
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: The ashes are no problem! We have a Waterford wood heat stove that generates lots of ashes! Maybe I should bag them and sell the bags. Now that is the kind of recycling I can really get into.
    I found out that the 2006 Liberty's have a service note on how to clean these dirt-magnet seat covers. Wash with warn water only power vac. Then let dry, and repeat the same except with cold water, vac, and let dry, and vac once more. DCX says this won't fail......I wouldn't bet the farm on it!

    Diesel is now $2.32 US here, and reg gas is $1.99, How much is the fuel there?
    Oh I read that the Jeep Commander's days are limited and no more in 2009. I feel sorry for those who bought this gas hog box on wheels.

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Farout: Today I'm bringing home two small bags of ashes to try with my little car. I'm just curious to see how good this works; it seems most people knew about this trick here, and I didn't. :sick:

    My BFG T/A tires have 38,000 miles and still give outstanding performance on crushed ice and snow. I was a bit doubtful entering the winter season due to the wear of their cutting edges: I was wrong.

    I use NAPA Windshield Winter Blades that I strongly recommend. They don't completely cover the passenger side because of their additional stiffness but ice is no problem because of the way they are built. I can only complain about the accumulation of snow that gets stuffed into the groove located on the left side of the windshield. Snow accumulated outside cools the glass and this catches humidity that reduces the driver's view.

    Good diesel fuel (Total Excellium) came down to 1.1 Euro per liter(~5.70USD/gal) and reg gas is practically the same price.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    We used ashes to move a helpless 4wd Suburban on ice a couple of years ago on a surface that our 98 Jeep moved easily. We keep a bucket handy for our steep driveway when it gets icy - haven't needed it yet with the Jeeps we have had. I learned the put-it-in-neutral trick on ice when I was 16. It just seemed natural.

    I lived in a village with steep hills everywhere. One day I couldn't get up any of the steep hills to my parents house. I backed down a steep hill and backed up another hill just to turn around but the car just kept going - got home in reverse. The leading edges of the tires were badly worn. I switched the tires around to put the sharp trailing edge the right direction and got through the rest of the winter on those hills.

    Most people when stuck and "rocking" a vehicle jam the transmission into gear and floor it, then jam it into gear and floor it until they get unstuck or ruin the transmission. Here's a rocking tip that will not hurt the transmission and has never failed me. Gently move the vehicle forward (or backward) until it stops while applying the brake just before or right after it starts to spin at the end of the rock. Change gears (at an idle) while holding the brake, then release the brake while gently applying throttle. Applying the brake at the end of the rock helps hold a position further in the rock. Chances are you will drive out of the icy trough you made and get back on top of the packed snow in just 3 or 4 tries. Sounds simple, but I have never seen anyone do this.

    I have helped people, that were stuck and destroying their car, by just asking them to get out and I would get behind the wheel and drive it out of the spot using this method. I love their stunned expressions. It is a waste of time to try to push someone who is frustrated.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Siberia: I believe we share the same driving experiences. I do exactly what you describe. So far I never needed help except for the only time in my life my vehicle rested on it's belly over an icy snow drift higher than my knees. That was kind of funny for me but not for my wife anxious to get to work on time :sick:

    But regarding the ABS combination with the gearbox being in Neutral position, I find tricky for the non 'addicted' people. Since our dear PCM (engine injection plus transmission synchronization calculator) gives or should give an alarm to the transmission controller to release the clutches that were being used at the moment the slippage began, I think the logic could wait for the throttle pedal to be pressed again before resuming previous drive selection.

    I realize how people react when they loose control so a bit more value analysis here could be appreciated.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    I have nothing but good things to say about my CRD. I now have 43M miles and have loved every minute of my driving experiance with it. However, today my check engine light came on for again and I fear this may be the 4th EGR replacement coming up. I did see that the code set this time is different from the other times - P1104 - anyone know what this means? I have noticed that my fuel mileage has dropped a lot. I plan on calling my dealer(Who has a very good diesel mechanic) on Monday morning - but was really wondering if anyone had an idea what this code means. Thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Spete.... Can not help you on that one the book goes from 1102 and jump to 1131, maybe is the EGR valve. Are you using ULSD fuel?. ARE you blowing it nose every week?. Are you bleeding the air from the fuel filter?. are you cleaning the map sensor at every oil change?. This are a few things that you have to do to the CRD as part of the maintenance procedure. Good Luck.

    Nescosmo.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    Thanks for the relpy - yes I am doing everything you mention in your reply. I had not any problems since last fall (November was last EGR replacement and was supposed to be a different part number from Chrysler) - and this time i had stopped to get my morning coffee and when I restarted the engine after about 10 minutes of shutdown, the check engine light came on. I will post what I learn after I bring it in this week. Thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Spete...Yesterday i replaced the fuel filter ( i had one since i bought the CRD} with only 9k miles and let me tell you the difference was super; I could not believe that a filter change could make so much difference, the filter inside was black like tar, well you could think about it. Wix make a filter for $26.00 that replace the original and is identical the #is 33647. Try it.

    Nescosmo.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    EGR Flow control valve. Had the same thing happen. rather common.

    farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout... How do you like your vehicle, funny the day that you exchange your CRD the diesel went chipper that ru.

    Nescosmo.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    If the Compass would have been a choice when we bought the CRD, I am sure we whould have went with the Compass. The vehicle is quiet, and runs so smooth. The back seats are comfortable even for a large adult ! The AWD and the 4x4 are just right for our needs. There seems to be more usable space in the Compass for us. What I really like is the electric window switches are on the doors, where they belong. The CVT transmission is very smooth and has good response. The engine has great get up and go at the high end, which the CRD lost at the F-37.

    farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Farout... I am very happy for you. I remember when i was in my 20s', i had a ford pk truck I-6 cylinder and it had so much get up and go, i remember that it use to have an oil pan that used to hold about 7 quart of oil. You are right the CRD was like that but my, lost it since the first flash.

    Nescosmo.
  • synlubessynlubes Member Posts: 184
    2005 crd liberty egr valve lost at eighteen thousand miles vin 1j46l485w635602 also torque converter and pump pcm and some other thing moor concerned about the egr valve should be sum extended warranty love my crd mike herold synlubes
  • mwweimmwweim Member Posts: 1
    Newbie here.

    I am considering purchasing a Liberty CRD but have some concerns regarding various recurring issues such as EGR valve replacements.

    I currently drive a 2002 VW Jetta TDI that I have made some standard modifications that other TDI owners regularly make. One of these modifications is removal of the EGR valve, EGR cooler and replacing the EGR valve with a straight through race pipe. This solves several problems including clogged EGR valves and intake manifolds. You wouldn't believe how much gunk was built up inside the EGR valve and intake manifold after 60,000 miles.

    A subsequent ECU tuning to increase boost pressures, fueling, rev limiter, speed limiter and EGR delete to remove a related CEL worked wonders on the performance. FYI, TDI's in the German market don't have the EGR system and they have far less problems.

    I live in Wisconsin which does not require diesels to go through emissions inspection/testing. Even if it did, it would still pass and most inspectors aren't intelligent enough to notice the difference. I wouldn't consider this modification while the vehicle was under warranty, but after the warranty was up I sure wouldn't be taking it back to the stealership to continually purchase/replace an EGR valve.

    I also see that InMotion Tuning offers a performance ECU tuning that among other things, turns down the EGR setting.

    Have any of you modified, bypassed or deleted the EGR valve or perhaps had a performance tune that took the EGR valve out of the picture?

    If so, what has your experience been since the modification?

    How difficult is it to remove/bypass the EGR valve on a Liberty CRD?

    Thanks - Mark
  • flyingpoleflyingpole Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 CRD...have 68,000 miles on it. You state "ARE you blowing it nose every week?" I have no idea what you are saying here. What am I supposed to be doing that I'm not? It sounds like my CRD has a nose and also has a cold! Seriously, what is this process.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    European common rail diesel engines have small displacement, they are fitted in most cars here because a great part of the distilled gasoline goes to NA and we keep the diesel fuel.
    EGR issues have been identified a long time ago and pushing the engine to it's limit for a very short period of time is a known remedy when you produce black smoke. When the turbo gets into action under full load at low engine speed it produces a blasting sound similar to a person blowing it's nose. This is where the 'nose' came from and the remedy is explained by Renault and local 'road angels'.
    What it does is simply build up more pressure in both intake and exhaust manifolds. This helps closing the valve when it's hesitating, but cannot help much more. By doing it once a week you expect to stay away from trouble.
  • crdjoncrdjon Member Posts: 1
    Changing filters can make a big difference, expecially when the manufacturer forgets to put the second lift pump in the tank as was originally designed inyour CP3 fuel system, You only got the pump up the front.
  • gti338gti338 Member Posts: 1
    I figured it out! This is how I solved my egr problems. I went to the dealer and paid nearly $700 for them to install a new one. I did none of the blowing nose stuff etc. and sure enough I needed another 11000 miles later. Guess what the part itself has a 12000 mile warranty. So I get a new one free and as long as it breaks again within 12000 I'm good. I'm not going to ever use the new diesel fuel because I hear it helps the EGR and will probably push me over the 12000 limit. Ridiculous isn't it Daimler? Oh well eat it.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    What's $700 for you ? People have to pay twice that amount outside the US.
    It's not Daimler that's ridiculous, it's simply to choose diesel fuel nowadays ;)
  • teddiejteddiej Member Posts: 1
    help! when I turn my wheels hard to the left or right, I get an extremely loud squeel.
    any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    The "nose blowing" does nothing for your EGR valve. Running high throttle once in a while causes the vanes in the variable nozzle turbo to fully articulate so they don't stick and keep moving over full range. If you want to articulate the EGR valve, run at 2,500 RPM out of overdrive once in a while for a few miles to fully open and clean out the valve.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Siberia, the "nose blowing" was the remedy to get the Renault vehicles back on the road when the valve is blocked in the open position and when the exhaust pours and puffs black smoke. I noticed the recent common rails don't have the same behavior :shades:
    Mine still works fine without the EGR valve. :blush:
  • fencemanfenceman Member Posts: 1
    Having put in the neighborhood of one million miles on Dodge/Cummins trucks over the last eighteen years, I thought a diesel Jeep sounded like a good idea. I bought an '05 with just under 50K miles on it this summer ('08) and it has been in the shop three times because it would start and die after about 5 seconds of running like it was starving for fuel. The first time there were no codes and after the tow (I got the extended warranty so that was free) it started and ran like a top. I had them do the sixty thousand mile service, much of which had nothing to do with the engine, just to get some fresh filters etc. and hopefully uncover something. I'm getting ready to call roadside assistance now for the third time to have it drug in to the dealership by its tailpipe and I'm over it. They have changed the PCM, but never have mentioned the EGR issue although that seems to be a common problem, could that cause such an accute issue as I am experiencing? When it decides to run it goes like a scalded dog, but when it decides to quit it belches grey smoke and quits before you even get it in gear. I did find a mouse nest under the plastic cover, but no wires have been chewed on that I could find, even inside the wire loom cover. I really like the little rig, but if it won't run I'm gonna make them buy it back.
  • mtb_tdimtb_tdi Member Posts: 6
    I have an 06 CRD with the EGR blocked off and no CEL. I had Charlie at KermaTDI.com flash my ECU with a tune that he developed at my request. I requested that he disable the egr.

    I made a simple block of plate and inserted it between the EGR valve and the pipe that comes from the exhaust. I can very simply undo this and take it back to the dealer by flashing my ECU back to stock and removing my block off plate, 15 minutes tops!! The EGR is confirmed non functioning via the block off plate and no CEL.

    I have confirmed that the tune eliminates the CEL by flashing my ECU back to stock and leaving the block off plate in place. Every time that I have done that, I got a CEL! I just wanted to offer a simple solution to the EGR. I know that there is the SEGR kit, but that requires splicing the wiring harness, which I didn't want to do.

    This solution may allow those that have a dead egr to not spend $700 to fix it. They can call Charlie at KermaTDI.com and have him flash the ECU and block the thing off!!!.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Caribou1, my dificulty is not with the process itself but with "nose blowing" as a metaphor. Whether it is a Liberty CRD, a Renault diesel or a VW TDI flooring the throttle closes the EGR valve and that seems to me to be the opposite of "nose blowing".
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Siberia, by pushing the engine a little bit you actually blow hot exhaust gas, this expands the EGR assembly if it wasn't fully closed, vibrations can help to release the valve and finally the catalyzer sees a larger flow of gas that removes its left overs. There is nothing else involved, just like cracking your fingers ;)
  • mtb_tdimtb_tdi Member Posts: 6
    FYI, the egr delete is an off-road only tune by kerma.
  • mrb91mrb91 Member Posts: 1
    Regarding the KermaTDi flash. Are you still able to pass smog check and are there any check engine codes when other OBD2 readers are put on your vehicle?
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