Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

logtrail · January 2006

I bought an 06 LL Bean Forester at the beginning of November with every thing that you have except the homelink, whatever that is. I assume that all of the Beans have sunroofs, leather etc. My price was $24,348 after the rebates and $25,848 before the rebates. So your deal sounds ok.

jeqq · January 2006

homelink is a remote garage door opener. My rebate is $1000 yours was $1500. Was that November's special? Thanks for the info.

tidester · January 2006

If I posted inaccurate information...

Well, gosh, Jeff, you're the first person ever to have posted inaccurate information on these boards ... JUST KIDDING!

Seriously, forum members provide a wealth of information and we appreciate every bit of it.

tidester, host

sammva · January 2006

Pl. excuse me if this is a repeat question. I will be going thru the subaru board pretty soon but wanted to post just in case....
Here is my situation... I'm looking for a second car and most likely to finish this deal and want to know if it might be worth it.... A 2001 subaru forester...with 87K for $4000. This is for my daughter who is a new driver and drives like about 5000-7000 miles a year. If this car comes along well for couple years or three years i will be happy... Considering these factors would you subaru owners agree if this is a good buy or not. KDD, NADA and edmunds price it like 7000 - 9000 but this guy says he is selling cheaper because he wants to close the deal fast.
Pl advise and thanks a lot to you all.
Sam

bayview6 · January 2006

I would be suspious. Tell the guy that you need to have the care inspected before you buy, and then take it to a Subaru dealer for a through going over. Either way, the money spent will be well worth it.

leo2633 · January 2006

I have a 2001 Forester S 5 speed with 126,000 miles. I'd like to tell you that it has been a trouble-free 5 years, but that would be a lie. I had to have my clutch, headgasket, wheel bearings, catalytic converter, alternator, coil pack and oxygen sensors replaced, some items more than once. Luckily, most were replaced under warranty, costing me more in aggravation than in $$. However, with all that said, I really love this car, and I plan on replacing it with another Forester in about 2 years. We also have a 2003 Outback that my wife drives and she loves that vehicle as well.

If the car you're looking at is in good condition and has been well maintained, some of the known issues (clutch, headgasket and wheel bearings) have likely already been addressed. These don't seem to be recurring problems if repaired properly. $4,000.00 seems like a great price for a well maintained 2001 with that amount of mileage. I would definitely have it checked out by a mechanic beforehand, and be certain to advise him of these problem areas so he can check them extra carefully.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

Len

drwales · January 2006

Or, the line between optimist and pedestrian has been crossed. Yes, to my shame, I ran out of gas today. Fortunately, I was less than a mile from a gas station, so it wasn't a major inconvenience.

Now I'm not looking for sympathy here, or even a masochistic humiliation, but a poll on trusting the light:
The manual says the light comes on at 2.3 gal remaining, (13.6 used). In my '03 Forester that was pretty accurate (in summer, maybe closer to 14.0 in winter). And after 4 fill-ups, the 06 XT has been much the same.

So to last night: The light came on as I was driving home, at 275 miles. With a screeching child in the back, I ignored it, thinking that at ~20mpg, I could easily get home and to work today, and I'd fill up at lunchtime, along with several other errands needing to be run. The trip-meter was 301 when I got to work today. Well, I got halfway between work and the gas station. Between the jerrycan and the subsequent fill-up, I only put in 15.5 gallons. The pump cut off immediately a second time after I tried to top it off beyond the automatic cut-off, so the tank was FULL.

The crux of this post is two questions for your collective knowledge:
1) At what point does your fuel warning light come on? Maybe I just need to recalibrate my safety zone with this new car... and
2) Does the fuel pump run dry at a half gallon?

Experience is those mistakes we don't make again.
Sigh,
Bob

taramaz1 · January 2006

I have an opportunity to receive a 1999 Subaru Forester with only 24,000 miles. It has been meticulously maintened and always garaged. If I take this car, I will sell my 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe with 63,000 miles. This seems like a no brainer, but I have read numerous reviews that state problems with the head gasket and wheel bearings which concerns me. I don't want this to become a money pit. This car has never had any problems mechanically to date and my goal is to get 2 problem-free years out of it. If I don't take it, I will sell it and keep my Sante Fe. Please help!

toasterpilot · January 2006

I bought my 2001 used and now have close to 120K. I replaced the belts last summer because they were due to be changed. Nothing else has broken and Subaru has no record of work done under warranty.

I travelled extensively last year, about 8000 miles in the Forester. The 01 also has a real spare tire.

dstew1 · January 2006

I can't personally speak to the reliability of the 99 Forester, but 24,000 miles in 6 (or possibly 7) years of ownership seems extremely low; low to the point where it may have been sitting too much and driving too little. You're looking at a range of 3-4k miles per year. Do you know if it was just driven for short distances most every day, or if it may have sat in the garage for days or weeks at a time?

Doug

kumari · January 2006

What state are you in? If you don't buy that 1999 Forester, maybe I will!! LOL No, seriously, is it in California? I found a 2002 Forester with only 17,000 miles that I can buy for $13,000, but I'd have to drive it down from north of Sacramento and I'm in Los Angeles.

Samantha

ateixeira · January 2006

Bob - the lights comes on with 2.3 gallons left, but those gallons slosh around. If the fuel pump starts sucking air, you'll stall. I doubt it can actually use up every last drop of gas in the tank, plus I wouldn't want to anyway!

I've run out with my Miata, same situation, luckily I could actually SEE the gas station. A good samaritan helped me push it in, and left before I could thank him.

Wherever you are, I was about to hand you a $20, buddy! Good Karma to you!

Normally, I'd rate Subaru > Hyundai, but you're talking 4 years' difference in age. Plus the wheel bearings and gaskets were resolved a little later, 2002 or so.

Get an 02-03 Forester used, sure, but I would not get a vehicle 4 years older and expect it to be better.

-juice

growler5 · January 2006

When I bought my XS in Nov 2004, I did a bit of checking on the point at which the low-fuel light comes on. I'd re-fill the tank as soon as the light came on.

During the first few tanks of gas, fillup consistently took about 14 to 14.2 gallons. When warm weather came, fill-ups took less gas, about 13.5 gallons more or less. I suspect temperature is a factor (this is in Pennsylvania).

I'll have to check again now that the cold weather is back. I wouldn't be surprised if the magic number is back up to 14 gallons or so again.

For peace of mind (and to satisfy your OCD quotient) you may want to do the same calibration. Fill up 5 or 6 times when the light comes on and average the number of gallons. Then you can figure out your own comfort factor. Mine is 40 miles to go after the light comes on before I absolutely have to pull over and fill up.

"Does the fuel pump run dry at a half gallon?" Since you're already off to a good start, we'll let you research that topic for us!

ateixeira · January 2006

You get even riskier when you have NAV, because you know how close all the gas stations are.

-juice

taramaz1 · January 2006

It was driven almost daily, but for short distances. It was a family member's and she was retired and only drove it to the store, to the hair salon, etc. I know that the 24K miles are not highway miles for the most part.

taramaz1 · January 2006

I am in Missouri. Sorry! If I don't take it, we already have two other buyers lined up to buy it. But price wise, we will sell this one for $8000 if I don't take it. $13,000 seems like a good deal for only 17,000 miles.

pert · January 2006

A week ago my light came on. I drove the car for awhile and the next day on the way to work here in the hills of PA going down a steep hill the car sputtered. I wont make that mistake again. Anyway I dont think one should let gas get to low due to picking up stuff on bottom of tank. Also more of a chance of condensation forming in cold weather.

pert

tim3 · January 2006

Im a long-time lurker and very occasional poster. For whatever its worth, I just wanted to post my impressions of our 04 Forester X 5-speed now that we just rolled over 31K and just recently had the 30K service done. Weve driven the car all over the West, including hundreds of miles of dirt roads and a few close to 4X4 trails, and its been great. Besides regular maintenance, the only problems have been a dash rattle and it was out of alignment when we purchased it. Both problems were fixed painlessly by the dealer. On the highway we regularly get 30 mpg with an all time high of 32 mpg and that included a Thule box on top and loaded with camping gear while driving Utah mountain roads.

At 26K I replaced the squealing Yokohamas with Bridgestone Turanza LS-Hs and that made all the difference. Theyre pricey, but I highly recommend them. The engine is developing Subarus infamous piston slap on what passes for cold mornings here in the Desert Southwest, but I recently had the oil analyzed and there was no indication of higher wear because of it so Im not worried. I recently switched to Havoline 10w/30 and started using Lube Control LC20 additive and that has quieted the motor down in the mornings.

The car even nicely survived a couple of mishaps. The first was when my wife accidentally backed into a neighbors car. No damage to the neighbors car, but our rear bumper was pushed in. Although I was pleased to discover it would have only cost $220 to replace the entire rear bumper, I rented a heat gun from Home Depot for $13 and was able to pop the dent out myself. Thank god for the plain black bumpers. And then after two days of hard driving with a 4-year-old, a cat and a dying goldfish while moving from Utah to AZ, my wife pulled in under the carport our new house but forgot my mountain bike was on top of the car. (Shes normally an excellent driver, really!). No damage to the bike or the Yakima rack, but the front crossbar peeled right off leaving a couple of deep scratches on the roof. Some touch up paint and a new crossbar and its ready to go again.

A while back there were a series of posts about whether the non-turbo Foresters had enough power. I should have chirped in then, but our 5-speed at least has plenty enough power to get into and out of trouble  even loaded and driving steep mountain roads. It may require shifting down and letting the engine rev, but the juice is always there. I know its nowhere even close to the turbo, but the non-turbo can more than hold its own. My parents recently purchased a 05 Forester X with the automatic. They regularly drive from 7,500 feet in elevation down to 2,500 and back again and have no complaints either about power even though they came from a more powerful Jeep.

Our only complaint: We wish the backseat were wider. Its a very tight fit for two adults and a childs booster seat. We can make everyone fit, but its tight! All in all, were very happy with our Forester. Bigger, faster, prettier RAV4s and Mazadas be damned.

joseph50 · January 2006

Tim3 mentioned an oil analysis.
What is that all about? How is it to be submitted? To whom is it to be submitted? What is to be sent? How should it be sent? How long to hear back? What is it designed to tell one? What should/could be concluded and not concluded about the results that are returned?
Thanks!

timyoung60 · January 2006

My 99 Forester GT just developed the same problem where the left rear of the sunroof doesn't lift up correctly on closing. I also notice that since this problem started that the clutch doesn't slip at the end of closing like it used to.
What happened with your roof, is it fixed and how?
Tim

lfdal · January 2006

Some of us, especially those with piston slap, or with the turbos's that might be "pushed" a little harder collect a sample of oil during an oil change. If you do your own its very easy.

There's a lab, Blackstone, that for about $20 will analyze the oil for contaminants, water, gas, antifreeze, metals, etc. They'll also do the same for ATF fluid, or even diff oil if you want them to.

Google Blackstone labs and take a look at their website, they have sample reports that you can view. I send out the oil from both cars 2x per year. Since I do my own oil changes every 3k, the money I save is enough that the analysis is basically free.

If you're not quite that OCD about it, just a sample every now and then will give you a statistical profile paired against every other of the same type engine they've analyzed.

The biggest thing I've gotten from it is that no matter what oil I've tried, if I put in a 10w-30 by the time it comes out 3k later, it has the viscosity of a 5w-30. A few people on the board have mentioned that this is due to the H4 being especially tough on oil shear.

Sorry for the length, but for $20 or so, it might be something you want to try.

HTH

Larry

joseph50 · January 2006

Much thanks, Larry

logtrail · January 2006

When I went to get my first oil change at the dealer I asked the counter man if they put in 5w 30 as the manual says. No, he said, they use 10w 30. However, when I got the car the sticker on the windshield said 5w 30 Quaker State Synthetic blend.
Called the dealer back and he said he had made a mistake. It was 5w 30.
Do all of the dealers use the synthetic blend or if I go to another dealer will I have to specify this blend?
I would like to think that there is some consistancy. And can a full synthetic or non synthetic be added to the blend?

alan_g · January 2006

I recently changed the oil on my 03 Forester and I had a problem getting the 3 of the 6 plastic clips put back in. Do these age over time so they need to get replaced? The panel is hanging down in th back and I'm afraid it will break off.

lfdal · January 2006

Were you trying to put the clips in with the "screws" already pressed in? If so, that doesn't work so well.

Examine one of the clips in your hand and see where the screw startrs to expand the end. When you're reinserting it, you want the screw pulled back so that the end isn't being flared.

I've found if out hold the screw back about 1/8 - 1/4 inch when pushing in the pin it will normally go in without much trouble.

Definitely gets easier with practice. I'm still using all the same clips after at least 10 oil changes.

HTH
Larry

alan_g · January 2006

Larry,

thanks for the help! Tried your recommendation and it worked.

Alan

once_for_all · January 2006

the oil filter door clips aren't very robust. The problem is that sand and mud accumulate on the top side and effectively seize up the clip.

I have found that they need replacing after about 7 oil changes. Right now I am going down the road missing about 3 of the 7 screws. Some would say that they had already known that was the case

John

kamah · January 2006

I had the torque converter replaced (twice) in my 1999 Forester, last time was under 12 months ago (warrantied work by a dealer subbed out to a wholesale transmission service) and I want to know if in order to do this replacement would you have to remove the front differential? It seems that the gear oil was never checked or refilled in all the service my car has had in the last 12 months (no evidence of a leak).

p0926 · January 2006

Dang! I've never heard of ANYONE needing their torque converter replaced and you've had it done TWICE! I wonder what caused it to go bad in the first place and since a 2nd one also went bad perhaps they still need to address the root cause.

-Frank

kamah · January 2006

I think so, too. My belief on the current damage is that the sub mechanic that my dealer used (I bought the car used with an extended warranty) really just does not know how to service a 4wd vehicle, or more specifically a Subaru. I really need to find out what's involved in replacing the torque converter.

jtm4 · January 2006

My '98 Forester did the same thing when I hooked the battery back up. A few lock/unlock cycles and everything was fine.

Jim

lakepop · February 2006

Well....Finally got access to the Subaru Crew forum after a few days of "glitches".

Emailed Steve with my problem and was advised it was systematic.........

So now its back............THANKS!

PF_Flyer · February 2006

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slazenger · February 2006

I have 75,600 on my 02 Forester-L A/T. I got CEL at about 74,200 and my dealer replaced catalytic converter under 80,000mile warranty. After they worked on it, I started getting burning rubber smell. I thought it might be due to oil/grease spill burning away. I took it back to the dealer after three weeks as the smell did not go away. They said front axle seal was broken and they replaced both front axles. Three weeks later, I still have the smell problem and it is impossible to drive the car for more than an hour. I had trouble free first 74,000 miles and now this saga :mad: after the dealer worked on my car. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any ideas on what might be the actual problem? I have almost lost confidence in my dealer.

Thanks!

p0926 · February 2006

I have almost lost confidence in my dealer

Almost?!?! You're a more patient person than I Charlie Brown

-Frank

leo2633 · February 2006

I replaced one front axle on my 2001 Forester when a CV joint boot became torn. My first indication that there was a problem was when I began to notice the smell of burning grease. There was a lot of grease on the exhaust system after one day. Since yours was doing it for three weeks before the axles were changed, there's a good chance that there is a lot of grease on the exhaust system which is in the process of burning off. I'd get under there and check it, or take it back to the dealer to have them check it for you. Good luck!

Len

samiam_68 · February 2006

Has anyone installed the Scan Gauge in their car?

http://www.scanguage.com/

subearu · February 2006

Some MPV owners have put this in (I follow the mpvclub site). It's an odd thing to find a place for on the dash. It does work ok though.

Personally, I have the obd-2.com scanner. :shades:

-Brian

ateixeira · February 2006

I have an OBDII scanner as well, but I plug it in when I need it. It only reads/clears codes, very basic.

-juice

ekirshner · February 2006

Hi,

Wondering if you found out about any warrenties for the steering roll connector for your 98 Forester. I just had this go out. They just replaced the connector, not the airbag (so I'm wondering if all you needed was the roll connector). That alone, including parts and labor, was $600 (still painful).

ekirshner

joseph50 · February 2006

I got caught out on a road trip in New Jersey without having put on my Michelin Artic Alpin snow tires.
The drive system on my 2001 Forester S did its thing, but the real revelation was how fantastic the relatively new Goodrich Traction T/A H's performed through the whole range of storm conditions (deep snow, hardpack, slush...)
To my amazement, I didn't miss the snow tires at all.

whitebird · February 2006

98 forester.........100kplus.....am getting a slight rpm increase at idle,none when in gear,less in neutral.....whats up??by the way,replaced right side wheel bearings twice,once just out of warrenty,2nd time 2years later,no charge,could never get first replacement covered??,thanks for your help......

gwendly · February 2006

Me and my fiance are getting married this summer and we're considering starting our family later this year/the following spring with that comes of course a veichle. Currently I drive a '99 Ford Mustang Convertible GT. Not exactly your baby/family kind of veichle

So naturally we've been considering a SUV (we can't stand Minivan's

) and we've been trying to gather as much information as possible in order to make a good choice what to buy. To me the Forrester seems like it's good bang for your bucks and that it could handle Winnipeg winter (-50F, tons of snow etc) but naturally we'd like to see what other people are experiencing with similar conditions (North dakota? Minnesota? Alaska

?).

Another question I have is if anyone know if Subaru is going to be launching the 2.0X model of the Forrester in North America anytime soon? I know in Sweden it's made the model quite a bit more popular since it's more affordable.

gwendly · March 2006

noone drives a forester in extreme winter conditions here? That amazes me.....

After getting stuck twice in the parking lot yesterday and while trying to get out of my own driveway I'm on the end of the line with my Mustang. I might wait to next season but research has begun

Right now the forester is in the lead but I'd like to be able to be 100%

ateixeira · March 2006

Check out last month's C&D (5Best Trucks) and the current Consumer Reports. That may push it up to 100% for you.

-juice

ateixeira · March 2006

The cargo area is rubberized (or is it plasticized?) to make it more resistant.

Funny thing is the passenger compartment is high class, with heated leather seats and enough real wood on the steering wheel to make a Jaguar blush.

-juice

toasterpilot · March 2006

I carried a water softener and leaked out water and salt but it stayed on my rubber liner. I don't use the Forester to make a manure run. They make pickup trucks for the kind of loads that you need to hose out afterwards.

Which brings us to the question, "How do you know when a jaguar is blushing?"

silver909 · March 2006

goncst8 · March 2006

Hi all, I am considering purchasing a 2004 Forester 2.5X that has 79000+ miles on it. It would be from a Subaru dealer who sold the car originally and has performed all service on the car. I am a lifelong Toyota guy who has no firsthand experience with Subaru reliability or quirks, so I'm trying to get an idea of maybe some warning signs I should look for? Basically this will be my daily driver (~40 miles a day commuting), and in 3.5-4 years will probably go to my daughter when she reaches driving age. Any comments? The miles are supposedly "highway" miles and the dealer has offered to put me in contact with the original owner (he traded it in on a new Subaru from the same dealer). I appreciate any insight from current and previous Subaru owners!

raybear · March 2006

It's exceptional that the dealer is willing to let you discuss anything with the original owner, and very nice of that person to allow it.

Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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