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Lincoln LS random misfire

2

Comments

  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Are you sure you counted the cylinders correctly? Maybe you replaced the wrong ones. If not then it could be the fuel pump.
  • jay456jay456 Member Posts: 3
    yes...wait... :confuse: i think so pasenger side from front of vehicle to rear 1-4 driver side from front of vehicle to rear 5-8 that should be correct. some of these messages say its not the fuel pump i think ill check pressure at the rail next just to make sure. have you ever heard of the PCV tubing i mean could that actually cause misfiring to happen. :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I think that's right. Here is what I found:

    Back (Fire Wall)
    4 8
    3 7
    2 6
    1 5
    Front (Radiator)

    I've heard some references to the PCV valve with misfire symptoms - certainly won't hurt.
  • learpilotlearpilot Member Posts: 1
    I have a random misfire. I got the code of PO 357 Ign Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction. Which coil is "G". Is that number 7 , second from the firewall drivers side ?
    Thanks for your reply, Rick
  • pman9pman9 Member Posts: 5
    Just signed up so I may be late on your help. I know the problem well. Some times if you slide the connector off of the ignition coil that is in question you'll find the rubber seal pushed back. This will create a loose connection and condensation can get trapped and last but not least it will throw out a code and bad idle. From experience, don't replace a coil until you check the connection.
  • jay456jay456 Member Posts: 3
    try to get to it this weekend, how do i go about fixing it if this is the problem
  • pman9pman9 Member Posts: 5
    Be careful cause they can be very fragile after a few yrs. Check the connector that hooks to the coil. You should be able to push the plastic down with your thumb nail and slide it off. When you get this off there should be a colored (gasket)
    o-ring inthe connector itself. Make sure it hasn't slid back. Use electric cleaner and spray into it but lightly. Let them all dry and hook them back up.
    Make sure you diconnect your battery before you start. so that it will rescan the code.
    Good luck
  • lsv8girllsv8girl Member Posts: 1
    How about this, guys? I know little about cars - just what guys at work talk about. My 2000 LS (V8) started off by not accelerating when getting on the highway, had the "computer" reprogrammed 2 or 3 times. The guys at work suggestedthe MAF sensor could be going, but I didn't mention it to the dealer, I figured it was their job to tell me the problem. It was ok a few months, then noticed a drag when accelerating from 40 to 45+ - basically at 42 mph regardless. Since I didn't really drive on the highway anymore, I decided to delay any further diagnostic until $ came in. Finally, the car stalled 2 mos ago at 43mph, and started after about 10 cranks with CEL. Dealer said 8th cyl misfire $450, brother-in-law (certified shop) said $350, so he fixed it. CEL again, shop changed fuel&air filters, & oil. Light comes back (lean exhaust codes) , dealer took air filter out, put theirs in, CEL driving off the lot. Took it in again today, now they say $1300, new MAF sensor and remaining 7 coils shot. No answer as to why those 7 were fine 2 mos ago! Any suggestions?
  • jetstangjetstang Member Posts: 16
    You can buy the COPS on ebay for about $20 each, factory motorcraft pieces, not rip offs. I had a cop miss, and just replaced them all as I had a valve cover leak, after living with a miss for a month. I don't know how your coils could all go bad at the same time, but it probably needs them. You can replace the cops and plugs yourself with some basic hand tools and a little patience and save a ton of money. After that, have it rescanned if needed, then see about the rest of the repairs.
  • martin57martin57 Member Posts: 4
    HI, I GOT A 02 LINCOLN LS WITH THE 6 CYLINDER ENGINE, ABOUT 2 MONTH AGO IT STARTED MAKING A HUMMING OR WHINNING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR SOME WHERE, IT ONLY DOES IT WHEN YOUR GOING A STEADY SPEED OR HAVE THE CRUISE SET, AS SOON AS YOU LET OFF ON THE GAS, STEP ON THE GAS, OR GO UP A STEP HILL IT GOES AWAY, IT STARTED ABOUT 4,000 MILES AGO AND ITS GETTING LOUDER THE MORE I DRIVE IT, ANY IDEAS WHAT IT MIGHT BE? MY DRIVE SHAFT AND WHEEL BEARINGS ALL FELT TIGHT OR DIDN'T HAVE ANY PLAY IN THEM THAT I COULD TELL. THANKS..
  • wmmanwmman Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem, with a miss on one of the back cylinders. The dealership wanted $1400 to replace all 8 coil packs. The said once oil was gets on the coil packs form leaking valve cover gaskets, they would soon fail. I do not know if this 100% accurate. I decided to replace the all the valve cover gaskets (source of the oil getting on the coil packs) and all 8 packs myself. That was one year ago and no problems since. I have a friend who has replaced just one coil pack and did just fine.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Does anyone have any experience buying coil packs off ebay?
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    I have a 2002 V8 Sport w/ 115,000 miles. My valve cover gaskets were replaced at about 65,000 miles. I now have an intermetent missfire which seems to happen when in a higher gear and accelerating. Engine is smooth at idle and when accelerating normally up thru the gears. I'm guessing I have a COP problem. What I'd like to know is how much stuff has to be removed before you can take the center part of the valve covers off to do the COP replacement job. I long for the old days with points, rotor, condenser, and one $10 coil bolted to the front of the engine.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    The COP covers are not difficult to remove. The right (passenger) side is a 10 minute job. All you need is a 7mm socket with an extension. Quarter inch drive is best because it is smaller. An open end 7mm wrench is nice to have, too, especially on the driver's side.

    The left side is tighter but you don't really need to remove anything. It is more a matter of loosening some things so you can move them a bit. The bracket on top of the strut tower can just be loosened so it will move out of the way. The dipstick tube will move aside slightly without taking it out. The cover on the left side will come out by pulling it forward and up. It looks more difficult than it is. The COPs are held in place with one screw and the electrical clip.

    Compared to replacing the valve cover gaskets, removal of the COP covers is a piece of cake.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Thanks for the info but even if you can get the covers off without removing any other parts I don't see room to get my hands in there to work on the COPs.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    It is a bit tight. A few scapes and scratches are par for the course. Really, though, it isn't as bad as it looks. Once the covers are off and the coil connections are free, the coils pull up and out. The coil boots are 6-8 inches long but are flexible.

    The first time I had a misfire, I had the dealer do a stress test and he found one bad coil. They participated in an After Warranty Adjustment on that one. Later I had another one go bad so I decided to change the remaining seven myself. I had already changed the plugs once so I knew what I was getting into but had no way to figure out which coil was actually the culprit. Eventually, they all seem to fail anyway.

    An independent shop might not be too spendy. I don't know what the flat rate manual would say in terms of the time needed for labor but I doubt if it would be more that a couple of hours - just a guess.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    I would still like to find out if anyone have any experience purchasing COPs from online dealers selling on ebay? Are they seconds, Chinese, parts that didn't pass QE or are they just fine. Dealers on ebay are selling these things for $150 a set of 8. Parts stores in Maryland want $56. Ford dealers want $76 and independent repair shops want a wopping $96 each and that's when you have them do the job. Big difference between $150 a set and almost a grand a set. The name of one of the ebay dealers is World Autoparts. Thanks.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I have had no experience in buying COPs on ebay. Hopefully, someone else can chime in. I bought mine from NAPA - their own brand - for around $45 each.
  • ps40u2ps40u2 Member Posts: 1
    I was sitting on some ice and couldn't move because of the rear wheel drive so I reved the engine probably more than I should have, but after I freed myself, the rpms were high and at idle it's kinda rough. It feels like it's misfireing too at higher speeds. Hope I didn't mess up the transmission. I just had my ignition coils replaced a month ago. Last week it was in for a rear brake problem. I'm a non-mechanical woman so any help would be helpful before I take it in on Monday.
  • 02LincolnLS02LincolnLS Member Posts: 1
    Sounds very familiar. Mine did the same thing... turned out to be a bad alternator.
  • inztagatahinztagatah Member Posts: 9
    hey i read your post first always check for a loose connection if its not that it is deff the altinator same thing happend to me in the middle of an intersection if it was your battery or a loose connection your car more than likely wouldnt have started in the first place however after you replace the altinator you may need a new battery as well. but first try to recharge the old one
  • inztagatahinztagatah Member Posts: 9
    READ THIS HELP ME!

    When it all started it was a faint grinding noice i heard every 30 seconds when i was just idleing at a light or just rollin whithout applyin tha gas than a few thousand miles down tha rd. it did it more often and when i stop it progresses into a boiling sound?
  • LS2000LS2000 Member Posts: 1
    If somebody by chance reads this please help me. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS that is my Baby i love her so much and i don't want to have to sale her but there are so many problems I've had to deal with. I've have had it worked on so many times but i think the people are just screwing me out of money and i need some real help. When I'm driving down the road and i go to pass somebody it will start jerking and just shut off. It's like the passing gear is gone. I've had the coils changed but I'm still having problems somebody please help me.

    AK
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    I thought I would stop back and let the group know of my experiences. A store did a scan and told me I had a miss in 3 and 7. I bought a couple of coils from a seller on ebay who had genuine Ford COILS for $30 each. It took me a few hours to install each one and I have a 1/4" socket set and a 7mm wrench. The tough cover bolts were the bottom rear on each side. I used to be a motorhead having owned a 55 Chevy, 60 Corvette and a 65 Griffith (289 Ford powered sports car) and I don't know how guys work on these things every day. Royal pain in the a--. It seems to me that manufactures just design these things to make money after the sale and these coils are a prime example. I read where COPs are used to save the car owner money in spark plug wire replacements. Well hell how can replacing these things be cheaper ($1200 for a full set at a dealer) or replacing one $20 coil that sits on top of an engine and a set of plug wires. I sure hope I don't have anymore of these things fail for a while. Thanks to the posters who offered the tips.
  • susieq7susieq7 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 LS had engine coils #3,4, 5,6 replaced April, June, and Oct. 2008 respectively. At the dealer the part was $99 and labor was $371 --$470 a pop! I was laid off my job and unemployment benefits are limited. I cannot afford a dealer repair. Does anyone know of a "good" mechanic that works on Lincolns in Wash., DC, Montgomery County or Prince George's County Maryland?
    Thanks,
    Sue
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    And dealers wonder why customers hate their asses. Ford's list price on those coils is $75 and that's high enough. For them to overcharge you by 30% is pretty sad. Why not post the name of these swell folks so others can avoid the place. Can't help you with the name of a mechanic. When I found out the raping I would take by having these things installed I bought a couple off ebay and installed them myself. Took a few hours for each one since they were on different banks but I take a lot of breaks.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    I suggest you post a review for the dealership.

    Dealer Ratings and Reviews

    And go here to find a repair shop in your area. Hopefully, there may be some reviews for a good one.

    Repair Shop Location and Reviews
  • jbr2jbr2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 LS with about 34,000 miles. I get the random misfire at speeds over 45 MPH. How can I determine which cylinder(s) are misfiring? MY OBD II scanner indicates that there are no trouble codes present.
  • letsdealmoreletsdealmore Member Posts: 1
    I got a computer diagnostic stating misfire in number 6. Would the number 6 be located on the driver side closet to the windshield?

    I want to do a full tune up. What all should I do/replace for a full tune up?

    Thanks
  • bigmike23bigmike23 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Lincoln LS sport and was told today that I have a misfire on 4 of 8 cylinders. I was going to just replace all 8 coil packs does anyone know of any cheap places to get all eight?
  • socalcarlsocalcarl Member Posts: 7
    I just dropped one in from Autozone - $45
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    You can get them cheap on EBAY but most are made in China and I'm not sure about the quality. I bought mine from a Ford dealer online and paid around $60 each.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • rayven4rayven4 Member Posts: 1
    I had been having similar problems with my 2000 LS...I had replaced several coil packs over the last couple of years...this seemed to solve the problem for a while then the car started idling very rough...i figured it was another coil problem...the dealer had the car for several weeks trying to diagnose the problem...with no luck. I finally took it home and drove it as is for almost a year...a loud knock started after a few months. not so loud at first then became worrisome. A mechanic friend of mine listened to it and told me he thought the engine was shot. But, i gave the dealership another go and let them keep it for a while longer...after several more weeks of diagnosing they came to the conclusion that the timing belt tensioner was loose making the knocking sound in the engine and also throwing the car slightly out of time (hence the misfiring)...this turned out to be a $700 fix, but it's running beautifully again. Now if i can figure out why it overheated the other day...(This car is driving me nuts, but i love it and can't let it go)
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    The cooling system on these cars needs to be bled if it has been drained and refilled. Maybe the dealer drained it when they worked on it and didn't bleed it correctly?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • charles101charles101 Member Posts: 1
    Its easy to change the 3rd cylinder, because its on the passenger side and that side is easy to get to. You will need 7mm wrench and socket 1/4 drive, 10mm socket and wrench, gaskets set complete, spark plug, for cylinder 3. I highly recommend changing all coil packs, my old saying is did it done and gone! Wish you the best
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Surely mookie3 has already had that fixed in the 4 years since he posted it......
  • lincman1lincman1 Member Posts: 1
    The steering snatches or feels like there is a notch in the first few degrees of wheel movement. Worse to the LHS. Research indicates it is the steering wheel posn sensor at fault. Where is the posn sensor located? Any tips on how to replace it? Thanks.
  • garthmangarthman Member Posts: 42
    My best guess is, since you have no errors showing up, it's not missing any charge at the coils so, likely it's the spark plugs well(s) collecting oil. This is very common, the valve cover gasket set includes 4 round spark plug gaskets which fail in time. As they fail, oil seeps into the spark plug cavity and continues to collect oil until there's just enough to ground out the ignition spark from the coil spring/boot to the spark plug tip.

    Many folks just replace all the coils then later find out they performed a completely wasted repair. While you are in the valve galley, I recommend you check out the secondary timing chain tensioner as they are prone to early failure and are basically right there in front of you once you spend the time to get the valve covers off. This is on 3.9 V-8's. If you have a V-6, forget the above as they don't usually have this oil seepage and chain issue.
  • garthmangarthman Member Posts: 42
    Talk to the service manager, 95% of the labor to get to coils is removing the valve covers. Once you do, the coils are less than 1 minute to R&R.
  • jen0jen0 Member Posts: 10
    Hello - I have a 2002 LS (V8) These cars are know for electrical problems. I have had the car for five years and I just hit 209,000 miles. Half of my electronics don't work anymore, for example my drivers side heated seat, the controls in my steering wheel, i.e. crusie control, radio volume, etc. I jsut replaced my windshield wiper motor went- that was a real joy to fix. My newest problem is that my heat isn't working very good. When I start my car in the morning to warm up it doesn't blow warm air. It has gotten worse over the past month - actually after I had my windshield wiper motor replaced it got worse. They had to take off my radiator fluid overflow to get to the windshield wiper motor so I wondering if they did something to it. Before it would blow somewhat warm air but now it's cool. When I start to drive it warms up a bit but not much. Before it heated up alot more. I don't know what's up. I think it may be a air pocket somewhere in the line. Anyone have any suggestions how to get the air out? without bringing to a mechanic?? I live in New England and I need heat!!
  • jen0jen0 Member Posts: 10
    Coils - oh yeah I had a [non-permissible content removed] of a time with "cylinder misfires" I have replaced 5 of the 8 coils. (at a $100.00 a wack)
  • deleonjdeleonj Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2006 Lincoln LS V8 a month ago I changed out all 8 Coils and Spark Plugs with brand new motorcraft coils and plugs. A week later the check engine light came on (And was Blinking), immediatly after, car starting sputtering and stalling something awful. So I take the car to Autozone too get a reading on the system for the check engine light I got Code scan: P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected & P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold. My Question is...Can I fix these problems at my owner level or do I have to take it or should I take it to a mechanic for them to fix?? Any help would be appreciated.
  • lmurphy2003lmurphy2003 Member Posts: 1
    If it's the coil packs, they should be covered by a Lincoln extended warranty on this particular part. I've had 7 out of my 8 replaced (a couple more than once), all under warranty. In most of the cases, there was misfiring and sometimes the check engine light would come on, but not all. There has been a TSB issued for this issue which is why Lincoln extended the warranty for this issue to 100,000 miles.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    A lot of times if you're running with a bad coil the unburned fuel will damage the catalytic converter, that could be the catalyst code. Don't know why you'd still have a misfire, though.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • villafanevillafane Member Posts: 1
    I need help......i just changed the valve covers gasket and when all was done I fired the car and started right away, the problem is when I give gas almost to the maximum, the car is like it is misfiring or coughing but the "check engine light" did not come-out.

    What could be the problem? where should I look to start? what can I do?
  • rlc11rlc11 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my 2004 LS. When driving it feels like the gas is not flowing properly and it misses. At times I smell gas when that happens. It is worse when you turn a corner and then accelerate. The engine light comes on periodically. I had it serviced when the engine light first came on and they changed the plugs. Now the gas smell has started, it is missing, and the engine light is still coming on. I am seeing a lot of coil issues on the forum, could it be related to that?
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Sounds like it may be the coils
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • angelica6angelica6 Member Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    While driving my car, the engine light and wrench light illuminated and then my car powered down to about 20 to 35 mph. I pulled over and turned off my car, then the wrench disappeared and my car was able to accelerate at higher speeds. My dad checked under my car because I noticed oil leaks on my garage floor. The engine oil filter was just about to fall off because the bolt was very loose. Three weeks ago I had my engine oil changed at the dealership I frequent for oil changes since I bought my car there almost 10 years ago. Could the engine oil have leaked on the valve cover gaskets, coils, and spark plugs that you talk about? My dad noticed engine oil on the alternator and in other places and just wiped the oil off. I called the dealership when my dad noticed the oil filter was very loose ready to fall off. He has an Actron which output the following: P2107 Tac Module Processor, P2110 Tac System Forced Limited RPM, PO356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, and PO303 Cylinder 3 misfired detected. The Actron indicated that the following were OK: Misfire monitor, fuel system moC Refrig Monitor, Oxygen Sensor, and EGR System Monitor. Also noticed the rubber on the right back wheel well inside the car in front of the gas tank where the gas cap is is like blown off and black soot is on the inside metal along the rubber where the door closes at this wheel well. Did this occur from the misfire? I often would smell something burning. Do you think the problem stemmed from the engine oil leaking out onto whatever else is near the engine? Do you have any suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The oil filter doesn't have a bolt so not sure what you meant by that.

    One incident like that would not be enough to cause coil failures. I would clean it up and make sure no new leaks are occurring and see if you continue to have problems.

    The TAC errors listed indicate a problem with the throttle by wire system which may or may not be related to the oil and misfire problems.
  • metal56mmetal56m Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Lincoln LS V8. It has 122,000 miles. My engine was misfiring and I have had this problem before (coils) and had the diagnostics run and it showed cylinder #3 coil. I changed that coil and it helped a little but still had misfires. I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs. It ran really smooth for a day and after that it started to misfire again, worse than ever. Could this issue be fuel injectors? What else could it be?
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