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At least that is what needed to be done for our 2007 when we added additional keys w/keyfobs.
After it's warmed up it runs fine. I can shut it off and restart it and it'll idle fine.
I've noticed, maybe a coincidence, that if the car is kept in the garage the problem isn't as bad or non-existent.
Some people I've talked to said it could be anything from an O2 sensor or a coolant temperature sensor....thoughts?
We don't know anything about the status of the typical normal maintenance items, at this point.
It's like going to the Dr and saying " I don't feel well", and expecting a recommendation as to what the Dr is going to do to fix you up. Don't need open heart surgery, when aspirin or a finger splint would do.
"I am a new member and have been experiencing difficulties with my 2001 Camry since the beginning of November. When I take my foot off of the accelerator and begin to apply the brake the engines stalls. There is a bit of warning as I see the idle bounce between 250-750 before the engine shuts down. This happens sometimes 1-2 times a week after about 20-30 minutes of driving. The speed that it dies varies anywhere from 20-35 miles per hour. If I put my foot on the gas (after the car is in nuetral) it doesn't stall, but it drives roughly. The huge problem is that I can't brake after the car dies and I have come close to getting into numerous accidents. I have had it in to two different dealers who cannot replicate the problem. I keep hearing that everyhting is fine and then it dies again while I'm driving it. I am extremely frustrated with the fact that no one can fix the problem. My fuel injectors were just cleaned and the ECM was replaced - obviously not the problem since it continues to happen. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks."
There recalling some years but not my Moms.
Just yesterday, while on a busy Atlanta interstate, my car stalled 8 times in approximately a 6 mile commute. Needless to say, I literately started 'sweating bullets' since I came very close to getting involved in several car accidents. Currently, my mechanic is diagnosing my vehicle. Because of this problem, I seriously have begun to lose confidence in my once reliable car.
Thanks for the advice on the relay and connections. The connectors look good, but I will double check them specifically. I have not tried the starter relay.
Many auto parts chains will check your battery for you free of charge, and choose the ones who do a 'load' test where they check the batteries ability to not only hold the correct voltage, but also to drive the maximum amount of current needed.
Get to the point where you know for certain that your battery, and cable connectors are clean and tight. If you still have the problem, then check the relay.
Many auto parts chains, will do that for free.
If low voltage, then back up and check the output of the starter relay to verify. If good, then your cable is bad to the starter. If low, then check input voltage to starter.
If relay input voltage is low, then problem is in cabling from battery to starter relay block (assuming battery is good). If relay input voltage is high, but output voltage low, then starter relay is bad.
Some folks never check back with the results. Sounded like it was futher back in the system, where Kiwaih was headed, the ignition switch relays,,security system. It was just a matter of time
, Troubleshooting online you got to think of all the scenerios, conditions of car, has it been hacked into, good maintenance or is is it a careless DIY. You got to ask about a 100 questions,to get a good profile, security system would be last on the list of common problems.
I got a customers van that does the same thing. He has one of those cheap security systems and somtimes it won't start. Someone has replaced his starter twice and of course the battery too. It failed to start for me after I was test driving for a brake repair,I did,for him.Then he tells me it happens alot.
I'm thinking why didn't he call me about it not starting, instead of not stopping. So I replaced the ignition switch in a hurry, only to have the same problem. Autozone took the switch back when I showed them both switches in my hand, I said the spring feels the same in the new one as well as the old, and I didn't need to replace it after all. Whoo! $16.00 mistake..
I thinking its the disconnected security system still causing the problem. I pulled the fuse going to it.last year after the alarm kept going off every time I opened the car door. God it was really annoying, but it could still be causing the intermittent start problem he has..Maybe I need to reconnect the fuse.
Thanks for checking back.
Anyway, out of all options, I got someone to jump start my car and I drove home. I kept the car running for 45 mins to charge the battery, and while it was still running, I noticed that if I would try to use my power windows, the dashboard panel (and the headlights also, I think) would dim and the battery discharge warning indicator would come on. After 45 mins of keeping the car running, I turned it off and tried to start the car. It wouldn't start any more just like how it had behaved before getting a jump start.
What is the problem? Does the battery (AutoCraft Silver Battery purchased in March 2009) need to be replaced? Or is the problem elsewhere?
Please advise.
Thanks,
D
1.) The battery is defective, and can't hold a charge given to it from the alternator.
2.) The alternative is defective, and isn't charging the battery back up
3.) There is a bad connection/connector/wire to the battery terminals, causing high resistance and not permitting the current to flow like it needs to.
An autoparts chain, will usually check free of charge for 1 and 2. They have a tester which tests your electrical system under load. It will tell them how much voltage and current the alternator is producing to charge the battery, and how much voltage and current the battery is able to deliver to the car's circuitry.
Normally the alternator on a vehicle is in good shape, unless the vehicle has had dead batteries in the past and owners have been jumping batteries unknowningly connecting things backwards or sparking. Those actions can cause one or more of the diodes which are internal to the alternator to blow.
Batteries greater than 3-4 years old are always suspect, and sometimes a new battery will have a bad cell.
Corrosion is always a concern, but is usually visible to the eye. A little corrosion on the terminal connector itself can be easily cleaned. If it is allowed to sit there it can work it's way up into the wire and cause more sever problems.
2009 battery shouldn't fail this soon.
If the car ran for 45 minutes and the battery was dead immediately after then the charging system is working, otherwise there would have no "juice" for running that long.
Thanks for your posts. I shall check the battery connections first, and report back.
Regards,
D
It was a case of a battery gone bad! I removed the battery from the car and took it to the car shop and they confirmed it was dead! Thankfully, it was covered by the two-year warranty, so they gave me a new one.
I put that one in the car, and the engine was back in action! Anyway, I drove the car to a car mechanic and asked him to run a full charging system diagnostic test. The result was that everything checked out fine and after I explained the problem I had, he confirmed that the alternator was working properly; it was the battery that had been the problem.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Regards,
D
Anyway, after all that, after I was (properly) boosted by a pickup truck, the car turned over fine, just like always, but now it won't 'catch'. It sounds like the engine is not getting any fuel. I'm wondering if I need to prime the engine somehow, and how I would do that. I checked to see if the EFI system had a breaker that was also blown but the EFI system has a relay and I have no clue how to test that. Is there some other system that may have been toasted by the reversed booster cables? I really appreciate any help and will let you know how it goes.
Let me know what you find.
PS - I am buying the right fuse for the car tomorrow morning first thing.
Down stream after the 80A Alt, are two fusible links. One then goes thru the AM1 wiper on the ignition switch, which then feeds wiper, turn signal, radio, etc. If those are working, then you know that at least one of the fusible links is okay. This is the key one you need to verify. The other fusible link feeds the ABS Actuator.
The 40A Main feeds a number of things including the headlights and horn. So if the headlights are working, then you know the 40A Main is okay.
The 30A AM2, goes thru a second wiper on the ignition switch, and then feeds the 7.5A Ignition fuse. Probably the best way to see if AM2 is okay, is to put a voltmeter on the 7.5A ignition fuse, turn the key to on position, and see if you have voltage on the ignition fuse. If you do, then you are know the upstream AM2 must be good.
Let me know what you find. If you don't have a DC voltmeter, then you'll need to pick one up. You could find cheap ones for 10-20 bucks, I'd check autoparts chains, possibly radio shack, possibly hardware tool places.
FWIW, the 7.5 fuse was still intact. I know that doesn't help if there is no power getting to it, though.
Thanks so much for your help. You are awesome.
xle with 241,000 miles.
Stalling the engine as you shift into a low(er) gear range is more likely the result of a HIGH clutch coupling level, clutch not full/properly disengaging,.....not indicative of a worn out clutch.
Clutch: Flywheel, friction disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing.
Depends on the type of car you drive---some are quite prone to this type of failure. I remember Isuzu Rodeos were notorious for it.
The exploding rubber center in my '78 Targa....EXPLODED.
Rubber debris between the clutch disk and pressure plate.
On Feb 4, 2012. My car was being washed and the alarm came on. The alarm was turned off and the washing continued. The car was later moved into the drive way and then back on the street. When I went to move the car from the street I put my foot on the brake and noticed again, that the brake was close to the floor. I tried to turn the ignition switch but could not. The wheels (due to a slight downhill incline) was turned into the curve. I could not move the steering wheel or turn the ignition switch.
I was told by the dealership to get in the car and lock all the doors using the alarm/key. I did that but it did not work. My car is still sitting there not working. The only thing I can turn on is the lights and the alarm.
I will have it towed to the dealership tomorrow.
I don't think its the battery (too new for that, unless its defective), I thought it was the alarm. Its like it killed the entire car.
Has this happened to anyone else?
About a month ago, it would not start in the morning (housed in the garage).
AAA jump started it; jump started results: Starter Test: voltage 9.37, amps0.1, time 1.10.
Charging system test: No Load 14.31, 0.5 A; loaded 14.30, 0.6 A. (lights on).
Drain test: 0.02A.
Car seemed fine and started well ... until yesterday, when it would not start in a store parking lot, outside temperature around 35 degrees. AAA came out again and jump started. Said they thought it was the battery. Went to O'Reilly where battery was bought 2 yrs. 3 mos. ago, and they said the battery was fine: battery load with 12.71 volts to start
Alt. output 14.04 volts; around 35 amps but daytime running lights were on. Suggested a possible dead spot on starter.
Next drove to Toyota dealership: battery test, rated CCA 582; measured cca 805, measured volts 12.61, degrees F 92. Service guy said he didn't want to start throwing parts at it when he couldn't pinpoint anything right now.
When turning the key, the car makes a rather high pitched whining sound but just won't start.
Would a battery go out that is less than 2-1/2 years old? (They claim they can't replace it if there meter reads that it is functioning.) Is the car running off the alternator?
Might anyone have had similar issues ... and how were you able to resolve them?
Recommend the dealership, or would a typical smaller-town mechanic be likely able to handle this?
Thanks.