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Today it started without any issue. May be when next time it starts giving problem I will have mechanic to check the voltage with voltmeter.
Actually I don't want to wait till it fails again. I am afraid that what if it gives problem again when I really need car or if I am some where away from town.
I took it to mechanic also, as it is staring without any issue he said he can not check anything. Thanks.
I have a 1997 camry which had the engine light on. I checked the OBD codes and got P0136 (just one code nothing else). The guy said Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2). Now, I replaced the front oxygen sensor only a year ago. Is this the same one or different. If so where is it located.
Also, this could be due to the fact that my fuel is running lean. Every time I start in the morning for the first time the engine stalls, I have to race it and/or pump the gas pedal few times to get it started. Do you guys know how to increase the fuel/air mixture to adjust so I can get a more rich mixture which might fix this issue.
Thanks for any help in advance
Andy
Unfortunately, when they did the initial repair, they failed to spot one bundle of exposed wires that was hidden by an after-market security system my car had. So, more than ten years later, my car again had electrical failure when the battery was fine, and a resourceful mechanic trying to diagnose it asked for permission to remove the (now-defunct) security system, and when he did, discovered the one bundle that hadn't been repaired. Over the years the exposed wires had corroded to the green hue "of the Stature of Liberty" as he described it, and they finally got so hot they fused together, causing the car to die. He replaced that one bundle and again my problem was resolved.
Hope this is helpful.
When you say you replaced the 100Amp alternator fuse, was it blown?
The battery feeds two things, direct hotwire power to the starter motor, and also to the input of a fusible link (I suspect this fusible link may be bad in your case).
-> The output of that fusible link, feeds a couple things. It feeds the input to the 100A alternator fuse which you indicate you replaced, it feeds the input to the 30Amp AM2 fuse, the input to the 5A Alt-S fuse, and the input to the the 40A main fuse.
--->Now the output of the 100A alternator fuse, feeds the input to the 40A AM1 fuse, and also one of the wires to the alternator.
--->The output of the 40A main, goes to the starter relay (secondary), which ultimately then goes to the starter motor.
--->The output of the 30A AM2, goes to one of the two circuits in the ignition switch (called AM2).
--->The output of the 5A Alt-S, is a wire that also goes to the alternator.
If you have a voltmeter, you can begin checking where you have power, and where you don't. So for instance, if you pulled the AM2 fuse, and did not find any voltage on either of the two prong holes, then you'd know something 'upstream' of that was bad, which is the 100Amp fuse you replaced, and then upstream of that is the fusible link. In this hypothetical situation, if you then checked the 100Amp fuse and both lugs were okay with 13+volts of power, then you'd look for a fried wire/block going from the 100A fuse to AM2. More than likely however, hopefully it's one of the fuses or fusible links that is blown.
Check to see if:
- the 40A Main is blown,
- whether the 30A AM2 is blown,
- and whether your headlights work.
If neither the 40A Main or the 30A AM2 look blown, then you are going to need a voltmeter. Do you have one? and know how to use it? You can pick a simple one (either analog or digital would be fine for this task) at radio shack or chain auto parts stores (pep boys, autozone, etc). I'd guess you could get one for 10-20 bucks.
The headlights do not work.
Can you answer the question about do you have voltmeter, and know how to use one?
Your starter will crank, but it won't start running.
Your dome light, headlight, radio don't work.
Your horn and flashers do work.
Let's start with the the dome light, which doesn't work, and should be easier for you to troubleshoot. It may identify the problem, or a clue to other problems. It get's it's power source from the fuse link block, thru the shorted pin (a wire just to the right of the 7.5A dome fuse, then it goes to an 'integration relay', to the ceiling bulb, back to the integration relay, then to the door switches. This is an integrated circuit, so may have fried but lets check the basics
- With the voltmeter, check for 13-14 volts on the shortpin, pull the dome fuse and check for voltage on the one leg where the fuse would plug in. You'd expect voltage on one leg (being fed from the short pin), no voltage on the other leg...which feeds the integration relay. Check to make sure the 7.5A fuse has continuity. You can't really check the integration relay, but now check the dome light itself. You should have voltage on one side of the bulb holder. When the switch is in the ON position, the ON switch actually provides a path to ground, so you should + on one side of the bulb, and nothing on the other. Check to make sure the bulb filament has continuity. "I believe" you should get this bulb to work even if the integration relay might be defective. Assuming that bulb lights with the fuse having voltage and the dome switch in the ON position, then if you switch it to the DOOR position and it doesn't work, then your integrated relay is bad. It's on the back side of the fuse box that is inside the vehicle under the dash, by your left knee. The integrated relay provides the nice controls for the dome light, timed delays when entering and exiting, slow diming, and it monitors the door sensors.
20A Rad#1 is in that same fuse box up in the engine compartment. It gets it's power from the same connection that provides power to the shorted pin mentioned with the dome light. If you have power to the shorted pin, then you should also have power on the one leg of the Radio#1 fuse. In addition for checking that voltage, check to make sure that the fuse has continuity.
The 7.5A Rad#2 fuse, gets it's power from one of the internal wipers on the ignition switch AM1. That wiper also provides power to both the 15A cigarette lighter fuse, and the 15A Power Outlet fuse. It's easy to check either of those two outlets for power, and if they have power, then the input to your Rad#2 fuse should also have power. If you do NOT have power on the outlets, then check your 40A AM1 fuse. If power on the outlets, then check the continuity of the 7.5 Rad#2 fuse. Remember the key needs to be in and turned to provide power to this circuit. If you have power on both of those fuses to the radio, and it still doesn't work, your radio is undoubtedly toast.
I doubt that you would have had the key in and turned when connecting the battery incorrectly, so the fact that the key wasn't turned would have provided protection to the AM1 side of the power feed thru to the 7.5A fuse. If you have a power problem, I would expect to find it on the 20A fuse supply side.
By the way, if AM1 is okay (w/key in on position), I would have you check to be sure the turn signals work, gauge lites up, heater motor blows, and wipers work.
So when you indicate the results of the above, can you tell me whether you have daytime running lights or not in your vehicle.
Does it have symptoms that your battery voltage is low? (Starter turns slowly). If so, you may want to get it to an autoparts chain (pep boys, autozone, etc) and have them do a load test on your battery and alternator, and check for corrosion on your battery terminals. Load test is usually free.
When checking the voltages on the fuse box up in the engine compartment, put the negative lead of the voltmeter on the negative post of the battery, and use the positive voltmeter lead to insert into the fuse slots to check the voltage. You should read about 13-14 volts if there is power.
When you are inside the vehicle, you'll need to find a metal ground (or a bolt connected to metal not plastic) somewhere, to ground the negative lead to
And I just realized. I said this is a '99. It is a 94 Camry. (Bad case of brain freeze).
Sorry,
You failed to indicate what voltages you found on your dome light. The 20A dome fuse is common to both dome and radio (as well as other things), which you have reportedly checked. Can you verify with a volt meter the voltage on the dome light itself and bulb?
Also, tell me whether the luggage compartment light is working or not (the trunk light).
I'm trying to get you to resolve what should be the easier problems first. They are easier for you to track down, and may lead to and be related to the problem associated with not starting.
"Not starting" could be any number of problems, and you'll need the ability to electrically prove that a circuit has power or not, and that fuses really are good or bad. That's why I need you to get a voltmeter and prove whether circuits actually have the power they are supposed to have.
If you can't get this diagnostics to work, then you're going to have to have it towed to a shop with some expertise in resolving Toyota electrical problems.
After parking the car I noticed that it wouldn't change gears (couldn't get to Drive from Park) even though it started up fine. The horn, head lights and hazard lights work but the turning signals don't.
I was thinking may be a fuse was blown..Could you please let me know what to look for and what might be the problem.
Appreciate the help.
Thanks.
Also, I think the 100A alternator fuse might be blown. can anyone confirm if this could cause my problems and also do I need to check any other fuses?
Thanks again.
When you had the battery swapped before, did they run a complete load test on the battery and alternator? ...... or....did you just simply replace the battery?
Normally, when you have a no-start condition, and then you jump it with another battery and it starts right up, you'd highly suspect the battery. If it's not the battery, you would suspect one of the connections that you might wiggle while putting on the jumper cables, or corrosion up inside the wire on the battery cables.
One would not necessary suspect the starter relay with your symptom, as jumping with another battery wouldn't typically have an effect on the relay. But, you indicate you have checked the battery and cables.
If it's not the relay, you're going to need a voltmeter to help isolate the problem.
a month ago bought a second-hand camry ('93). it ran fine, but today right at the intersection when the light switched to green, the engine shut itself off.
i tried to turn the key and restart the engine - there was NO sound. as if the engine was dead. it so happened there was a pep boys next to the road so i pushed the car there.
i had a battery changed (old one was 4 y/o). it seemed everything worked fine now - EXCEPT , right at pep boys, i started the engine and was trying to back out the car after they installed the new battery, once i shifted the gear to R, the engine died right then. i was able to start the engine after shift the gear back to P, and this time the engine did not die when i moved to R to back up.
Any idea why the engine died suddenly at the traffic light and why it died the second time after i got a new battery (when i shifted it to P) thanks a lot
:confuse: :sick:
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Implantnha khoa
Where will we go after dead?
Let me know what you find when you check those fuses.
It starts and runs fine if there is no stop for miles. After shutting down and to restart it takes some cranking time to start. When restarts I have to press the gas pedal otherwise Idle is very low and tries to cut off, then it runs OK.
After shutting down for an hour or so it starts fine. Even burried in the snow for two days it started fine.
It had cut off at Red light after driving some miles few times, and restarts after some cranking time.
I have added Gas addidive for dry gas.
Temparature Gauge shows very low Temprature. Stop and go traffic temp gauge may go to less then half.
Battery is one year old.
Any suggestion Please
So, is there some kind of "restart" button on the electronic throttle? Is there any way that the loss of power & jump could've affected the throttle...what else could cause the car to not move when stepping on the gas pedal?
HELP!
Buy a cheap (10-20 bucks) volt/ohm meter at an auto parts chain or radio shack. Can be either digital or analog. Measure the voltage of your battery as it sits in driveway. I suspect it's less than the 13-14 volts, which would indicate that the battery is undercharged. If it is discharged, then I'd suggest having it replaced, since it isn't long for the world anyhow.
You might have other problems, but you need to verify first that your battery is good. Let us know what you find.
You might be correct, I smelled Gas when it started after stalling..