Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The car functioned as normal until four days later when the same thing happened. I am taking it to the dealer I bought it from tomorrow. I am wondering if some of the wire coverings that have worn in the past 2.5 years (exposing more of the wire) may have triggered a sensor that shuts the engine off.
If anyone has had a similar experience I would like to hear about it.
Other than this the vehicle has been a pleasure to drive.
1. There was a recall that fixed a problem with part of the battery electronics corroding and an overly sensitive software code line that decided that corrosion was a reason to shut down. I had this one fixed about 3 years ago. I haven't had that issue again. It wouldn't start again for 30 minutes after this.
2. After about 45 minutes of driving I will loose power and the engine will stop, I still have electric power and can pull over safely, after this it will start again after 10 minutes but with much less power and if I don't baby it it will happen again. I've been told this is a faulty motor electronics cooling pump (transmission cooling). Dealer wanted too much money so I'm going to change it myself. We will see what happens then.
Thanks.
Again, I bought the SUV mid 2007, it have put 80,000 + miles on it since then. Yes, I was upset, I felt the pump should have been covered under warranty. But, I have been pleased with the automobile considering the amount of driving I have had to do.
Since I had the water pump replaced I am having an issue with the powertrain light coming on (looks like a wrench), but nothing seems to be wrong with the car or the engine. When I turn the car off and back on the light goes out. I will call the service department about this.
The waterpump has been redesigned and you should not have that issue again. The labor seems kinda steep on that repair. I'm not a mechanic and it took about 20 minutes to replace mine.
Who were these 4 clowns in Canada that could not help you? I need to book with a dealer in the Red Deer Alberta area to get this fixed. Was it the electronic coolant pump?
Everything else about the car is good but is this going to happen again?
Peter
I also have a 2006 Escape hybrid with 28,000 miles on it. Unfortunately the extended warrarnty is only to 5 years 100,000. It is currently in the shop and has been for 3 days. NO engine check lights have come on but, the vehicle is idling faster than normal and longer when first started. There is a louder than normal engine sound at the time of this idle (kind of reminds me of older cars if you ran them without the air cleaner. I also find that every so often when I start out from a stop there is a smell of raw gas. I had this happen once after backing it out of the garage and found the smell coming from under the hood and not the exhaust pipe. So far Ford says they can not find a thing wrong. They felt the idle was high and checked with the factory and found it was within range. What the hell range I always found idles were always a close tollerance not several hundred to a thousand RPM's. Anyone else had a similar problem
I just was checking out this site. You probably solved that issue already, but if not here is my experience.
I had a similar warning and then the engine shut down and the display said "pull over safely", I pulled over and checked the obvious things and started back up to go on my merry way. This happened once more on that day, both on the highway (at speed). I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a bad blend air actuator? I run an equipment shop and had to know what that was.
So the batteries have a heating/cooling system of thier own. It's purpose is to keep the batteries at optimum operating temperature for long life and performance. As I found this temp is somewhere around 70 deg F (i think), the system has a small door flap in the body, just behind the drivers rear door. it opens and closes to allow more or less air into the battery cooling system. In my case it was a 90 deg day and I was travelling a steady 75mph for 2 hours and the door stuck closed and the battery overheated. Apparently there is a filter in there also, that should be looked at occasionally. From what I read some of the newer models 2009? maybe are a little different and use some of the inside HVAC air for cooling also.
My problem has never reoccured
This morning I ran the scanner and got no codes. I checked the water and oil levels and all was OK. Then I drove the car for about 6 miles and everything was OK, no warning lights or alerts.
So what do you think happened? Any advice as to how to proceed?
It is not California, it is CARB states (I believe there are 13 states). The warranty is 10 years / 150K in those states, 8 years / 120K in other states. This ONLY covers the hybrid components.
The part in question is the MCES, which cools the electronics (not the battery, whch has it's own A/C). Since it is not used in the non hybrid Escape, I can't imagine how they get away with not classifying it as a hybrid component, except that it isn't directly part of the hybrid system.
They Camry is a passenger car, not an SUV, so it really isn't comparable. As for the Highlander Hybrid, for AWD applications the FEH is vastly better; the Ford model uses a mechanical AWD, so that one always has access to driving the rear wheels. The Toyota uses electric motors, which will simply stop working when they overheat - as they will if used enough. This won't happen with periodic AWD, but may happen at the beach or other intensive AWD situations.
My 2008 is still humming along. Sorry you had a bad experience.
What to do?
I've had problems with my 2006 Hybrid since 2007. Same as everyone, car stops and limps to side. Wait a while and it will restart. Dealer couldn't find problem and wanted to "shotgun" everything for about $1000. When dealer told me I shouldn't complain, that they'd done the warranty work for free, I asked "what warranty work". And then I saw the letter describing the shutdown problem, and the "free fix", neither had been mailed to me or shown as a "recall". Since the work done, replacing a resistor in the Powertrain Control Module (not a "recall", but classified as a "Customer Satisfaction Program" and valid thru 8/2009 or 150,000) fix the symptoms, I also refused to pay their diagnostic fee - replacing it all doesn't count. And they weren't even telling me they'd already done the work.
However, it's happenned again. 3 yrs later, same result but this time it was the filthy "cabin filter". Easy fix and I've seen it mentioned by others.
Now, 4 months after the filter fix, it's happenning again. No warning, no sounds, just quits. Even tempeture isn't consistent. It's been over 100 in the desert all summer, so why NOW? And it will restart and drive for an inconsistent number of days or hours. But today was the worst. Took me 2 hrs to limp home 20 miles. And then my wife jumps in and goes driving off with no problem, yet.
After reading these horror stories for 3 hrs, I'm left with choices of battery pack fan or CHT Sensor or Electronic Cooling Pump, and the first "MCES"
Never will I buy a ford again. BYE
Never will I buy a ford again. BYE "
Well, good luck with your future cars. My personal experience has been great. I suspect that swapping the old model MCES pump for the new model would have fixed your problems, at least from what I am reading in other forums.
It was a cracked ABS Tone Ring. If the crack came round as I hit the brakes that caliper would bang close. As I said my code reader did not find the message but the dealers’ did.
$7 part I got from newfordparts.com. I was able to replace it in by taking off the wheel, axel nut, caliper and bracket, ABS sensor wire bracket, tie rod end and two bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. This gave me enough A arm movement to pull the knuckle away from the axel. I think corrosion got underneath the ring causing it to crack. I cleaned the rust off with a Dremel, held the new ring by the diameter with a vise grip, heated it with a pipe torch, slipped it on and held it in place with the old ring till it cooled. I sealed it with Loctite 290 to prevent the corrosion from coming back. I used 1 ¼ socket to get the axel nut off but it probably is a 31 mm. Also the way the nut came off it may had been Loctited, had I hit it with the pipe torch it probably would had come off easier.
I own a 2005 Escape All Wheel Drive Hybrid with 241,266 miles on it. I live in Illinois, and used it to commute to work about 95 miles one way (now have place to stay in area during week - long story). Last night I was traveling at highway speed, about 50 minutes into trip, when it suddenly felt like the transmission shifted, vehicle decelerated, and the red triangle with the exclamation point lit up, along with the warning message in the dashboard "Stop safely now". I was able to pull to the side, then drove on electric power 1/4 mile to a parking lot. I got out, checked for issues in the engine area, looked at the tie-rod ends (another long story for another post). I checked the owners manual, no insight concerning warning message. All system checks vehicle can scroll through were OK. I called the dealership for any thoughts, was 5 minutes after service department went home, said bring it in and they will check codes. I turned the vehicle off, then back on, warning message was gone. I decided to return home immediately to shorten or possibly avoid any vehicle recovery costs. While returning, after about 35 minutes of travel at highway speeds, I got the same "Stop safely now" warning message. Another turn engine off, then re-start cycle cleared message. I drove a little slower, and with the remaining short distance and several stops along way was able to get home. Am going to dealer this morning. Based on reads in this forum, I am suspecting issue similar to highrev2 (message 88). We park the car outside near trees, so I am suspecting the battery ventilation filter may be plugged. I googled Ford Escape Warning Messages and was very concerned about the Powertrain Control Module based on the consumer issues reported there, will post again about what dealer finds. This has been a great vehicle, average mpg 27.5 to 28 at highway speeds year around, as low as 22.5 mpg per tank at 80 mph in extreme cold, as high as 34 mpg doing local driving only in summer conditions. This is the first time I have felt uncertain about continuing to own the vehicle longer. My advice is to investigate carefully but immediately and not panic based on the red triangle warning messages, but certainly respond appropriately to your particular driving situations (any issue involving sudden deceleration in heavy traffic would deeply concern me too!). I will add another post to update this community later. Thanks!
Ford dealer (Dixon, IL where I bought the hybrid) performed diagnostic and it returned P1A0D code, indicating problem with transaxle cooling pump. Evidently, this code triggers immediate reduction/limit of transaxle to 75% power, lights red triangle with exclamation point warning, and "Stop safely now" message. Dealer mechanic checked transaxle coolant pump, found it sticking during testing, tapped housing area with hammer and freed it. I ordered replacement pump ($482), should come in about a week. Also replaced air filter for battery compartment at this time. My wife will be driving this car for local trips only (8 miles one way) until transaxle coolant pump is replaced. I expect this will resolve current issues with this vehicle, but will be alert for other performance issues and warning messages. In reviewing the posts to this site, I am impressed with how few issues have been posted about the FEH, but am concerned about the potential safety impacts due to the system response and the limited awareness of the problems in the mechanic community. This vehicle has been a great ownership experience for me, and I am well satisfied with it. I hope to own it several years more!
thanks.
It has occurred on road trips (not on everyday local driving) and usually when we have it loaded with cargo creating weight. I was thinking it be some kind of temperature(heat) problem with battery ventilation or, it might be something about the trans axel as described in post 101 & 102.
When it occurs we get off the highway ASAP because the darned thing is unresponsive to throttle! Scary!
I get out and sniff around the outside and underneath to see if there is any abnormality. Haven't seen, heard or smelled anything out of the ordinary on any of the 3 occasions it has happened.
We let the vehicle sit for 10-15 minutes. Then we start the puppy up and...off we go. Generally speaking, the message does not return and we stay below the speed limit and in the right hand lane just incase the loss of power happens again.
FWIW, The vehicle never has the problem just described when there are just 2 or 3 people and no cargo load. Since I know this much...duh... I don't want to fart around with our local Dealership's Service shop because they will probably say it is not unique to the hybrid 100,000 mile component warranty.
I'll just have live with it....because I ain't got much money
I may have to source an engine for my '05 FEH. Pervasive engine rattle sounds ominously like a rod bearing going out.
Can you reply with the information about your North Carolina source?
Thanks so much...
WILL take your report - twice my car stopped in the middle of big-time LA traffic - frightening experience. Took it to dealer the first time in 2011, they said it was fine. Happened again a week ago and they said it was a coolant pump and charged me accordingly. This should be a recall issue but the recall only happens when the government steps it. So file complaints with the National Highway Agency - link is given above. PLEASE FILE. This should be recalled.