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Best regards,
Dusty
Does or has the engine ever stalled when making an extreme left or right turn of the wheel with the engine at idle speed?
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks,
Josh
Best regards,
Dusty
As one poster has already commented, most bulbs nowadays will last for a long time. My Dakota is almost seven years old, and 114,000 miles later I've only replaced one taillight bulb.
A short in the circuit to the rear lamps will not cause a bulb to fail. If the short is on the supply side (before the lamp), a fuse will fail. If the short is on the return side of the bulb (short to frame), nothing will happen because the return path is frame.
If the bulbs display signs of a burned filament, it indicates excessive voltage spikes or extremely long illumination duration. If the filament shows signs of being broken, not burned, it is very likely from impact forces.
Do you use the tail gate a lot, or does this vehicle see a higher than average amount of rough roads at higher speeds? The RAM tail gate is very heavy and a lot of them get slammed shut with quite a bit of force. Believe it or not this is a significant source of impact forces that can cause filament failures. Most of us civilians won't be replacing a lot of lamps, but you will see this more often on vehicles that are used in a commercial environment.
This may or may not explain the situation in your case, but at the moment I'm suspicious that the bulbs are failing due to vibration.
Best regards,
Dusty
If this component is actually defective the code should clear almost immediately, but you may have to go through a number restarts and complete operating cycles before the trouble code clears and the instrument indicator goes out.
Regards,
Dusty
In this case the PCM has detected a hard fault. My suspicion is the switch in question is in the incorrect state all of the time or a good portion of the time and the PCM is sensing high pressure past a certain duration. It is also possible that there is either a short or an open in the circuit going to the switch, or the input to the PCM is bad.
The switch can be tested using a multimeter or continuity checker. The switch is normally closed, so at idle with the wheels straight head the switch should show continuity. If its open in that state, then I think you've found your problem.
Now, some DTCs will reset after so many restarts and/or complete driving cycles. Others must be manually reset with a DRB3 tool. I cannot tell you at the moment if this is one of those cases.
By the way, have you retrieved a fault code from the PCM and do you know what it is?
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty
Had my check engine light come on this morning in my 2002 ram. At the same time, when I stepped on the gas, it didn't accelerate the way it has always accelerated. Any thoughts on how to check the code to see what is wrong? Thanks
If the oil screen is clogged the oil pump will probably supply enough oil to keep the lifters quiet and enough oil on the bearings to prevent overheating and damage at idle speeds, but as engine RPMs are raised the pump cannot pull enough oil through the screen to keep up the pressure in the lifters. Since you have 190K on this engine, this could be the cause, especially if the engine was not well maintained or a poor grade of engine oil was used. This is a somewhat common problem on high mileage engines, especially those that had a steady diet of 10W-40 motor oils or had long oil change intervals.
If the oil filter becomes clogged, the oil will by pass through the oil pump relief valve and oil pressure will be very low. However, the usual symptom is the oil pressure will be very low at idle (sometimes zero on the factory gauge) and remain very low across the entire RPM range.
The oil pump relief valve could be stuck producing the same results.
I'm assuming you've checked the oil level, but does it appear very thin? Is there water or excessive moisture in the oil? Look for signs of rust on the upper area of the dipstick or sludge formation under the oil fill cap that looks like dirty mayonnaise. These are signs of excessive moisture, and if you're in a cold weather climate it can be enough to freeze and block oil galleries, and it probably means there's a lot of sludge in the system.
There could be excessive bearing clearance causing a loss of pressure in the entire system. Since there's no sign of a connecting rod knock, it could be just the main bearings are worn.
The oil pump could be worn (yes, I know. It doesn't make sense being in oil all the time!), the oil pump pick-up tube could be loose where it attaches to the oil pump housing causing loss of suction, or it could be jam packed with sludge. There could also be a leak at the gasket surface of the oil pump cover.
Finally, although more commonly found on Fords, the oil pump shaft could be broken.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty
Ski in TX
Unit was changed and all was well. Last week it went out again so we thought. We changed it again, the gauge worked for about 15 miles of driving then went to zero. Stop the restart and the engine gauge goes to about 38psi for about 4 miles then drops to zero. If I sit parked it works for about 5 minutes then stops working.
My check engine light has been on for a long time because of the dreaded P-0455 code. I disconnected the battery and cleared that code and got no other codes.
What do you know the oil gauge starts working. I drove for about 30 miles with no problem starting and stopping several times. About half a mle from my house it starts this on and off thing every 10 to 15 seconds or so.
I checked for codes using the on-off-on-off-on method and didn't get any.
The oil in the engine is good and the truck only has 59 K miles on it.
Does anyone have a clue has to what would cause this problem.
What makes me think it is not the pump is the pressure drops instantly to zero not like it is losing it slowly then climbing back up. I am thinking more electrical than anything.
But I don't know thats why I am here asking.LOL
I did not have any issues with either the Cruise or OD switch, those both worked fine. I think the cruise worked because the speedo did show my speed once past the 30mph and 60mph later. Perhaps the same is true of the OD switch? Sorry this wasn't any help.
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