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This time I'm leaning toward a LTZ with the 4 cyl. However, I could just order another 2LT configured just like my first, this time in the red jewel paint color. I'm going to try and drive a 4 cyl LTZ this weekend, as I'm curious about how the six speed tranny will "feel". My dealer has two on the lot according to their website, one black, one white, both with the cashmere interior which I prefer. Maybe the white one will catch my attention, but I think I'd rather have the red jewel color.
thanks bill
My mother's 2LT 4-cyl 4-speed is driven about 3 miles to work and back twice a day with several stops, and after 5k miles, she's averaging (I think) in the 23'ish range. The more open road and just cruising it's high 20's if not 30, and then 30 or over dead highway.
One thing that got me puzzled though , when I look at the MPG INST display , the numbers fluctuates ALOT ie 21 to 30 .. 40 , back down to 21 then up to 79 ... to 90 .. checked at highway speeds What is that all about ?:confuse:
http://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Your-Car%27s-Fuel-Efficiency-%28MPG%29
This is the 3.6l LTZ.
noticeable difference for fuel economy. Some may say it does, but I
just didn't observe it.
What makes enormous difference, is:
1. The pattern of driving -- "stop and go" vs. "just go".
2. The temperature outside.
If you are unhappy with your MPG now, wait till the cold fall and
winter weather, when the fuel economy will drop another 3 MPG.
But the MPG numbers are pretty useless without indicating two things:
1. How do you measure them (DIC -- when did you reset it? Fuel
purchased?)
2. What were the driving conditions and mode during the interval the
quoted MPG refers to:
a. Weather (often clear from the context, of course).
b. Road profile (hilly / plain etc).
c. Average speed (from DIC).
I just filled up this morning , wrote down the mileage and gals pumped and of course ....reset the DIC display. So, I'll measure the MPG the old fashion way miles driven divided by gal. Also I fill up when the tank is half full . Don't want to get pump sticker $$$ shock,LOL
PS on my car Invoice sticker EPA rating CITY MPG 22 (WITH RANGE OF 18-26MPG )....HIGHWAY MPG 30 (WITH RANGE OF 24-36)
COMBINED FUEL ECONOMY ..THIS VEHICLE IS... 25 . So I wonder if (THIS VEHICLE IS..XX. ) that number differs on each 4cyl car off production
The bigger issue is--as I think we've discussed before--is that your computer programming was updated by the dealer with the wheel swap so it actually knows it has the larger 18's on it, and your speedo and such aren't off considerably. Was this done?
If GM is interested in my opinion, I highly recommend to reduce the size, especially in the sedans which supposed to be "sportier", like the Malibu, Caddy CTS, etc.
You said your best was 25 mpg on the highway, but a lot depends on altitude, the grade you were driving on, weather, temperature, fuel (e-10 hurts, speaking directly from experience), average speed, how often you changed speed and how rapidly, etc. The same things apply in-town too. Then there are things like tire pressures (I run ~4 psi over the stickers in mine, keeping close eye on wear patterns and rotating with the oil changes), as well as other maintenance items. Turning off the climate control (heat / AC / defroster) as much as possible, keeping the windows up (see, local climate again- if it's too hot or cold where you are, or too rainy, these last ones can become less practical). All sorts of little things that can add up.
I can't honestly say that where I'm currently at is the most ideal for getting great fuel economy, but it's not bad. I'd love to have a place where the highway drive was as good as level for my entire commute, otherwise this is about as good as it gets (the steep hills are balanced out in the return trip to some extent, for example).
BTW, I've tested the A/C vs. windows vs. neither thing with various vehicles. While some other reports are that there's negligable difference, I've pretty much always seen one, with the best always being with windows up / no AC. The compressor drag with my LTZ is particularly annoying, and makes me wonder if I might need to get it checked next service, as it's almost as bad as many 4 cylinder cars I've owned in the past, and is worse by quite a bit than the 2004 Malibu LT 3.5l V6 sedan we had before (meaning, easily felt when under operation, causes car to downshift much sooner on grades, etc.).
I fail to see the benefits of having 18" tires on a Malibu sized vehicle.
When I had my 2000 Intrepid with DIC, I averaged about 26-28 on the highway...but when I switched to instantaneous, if I was driving down a hill, took my foot off the gas and coasted, the MPG would jump in 2 seconds to "70 MPG", the highest the numbers would go...I assumed that for that 30 seconds, flying downhill without adding any fuel, the engine was getting 70 mpg, but for a few seconds...once you touch the gas, it would drop in a second to a number in the 20s...
But it sure was fun to try and get it to read 70 mpg...too bad it was fantasy land...
Can you elaborate ? Still think MPG INST is useless BUT maybe you can clarify
Thanks
Since 80% of my driving was highway, I routinely got between 25-28 mpg on the road, which was OK to me, esp with gas at $1.50 per gallon...
For whatever reason the Malibu is a rare bird around here and that was reflected in June sales. Compared to the Accord, Camry, Altima and Sonata, Malibu's sales for June was a distant 19th place out of the top 20. Also, I see fewer and fewer TV commercials as well. Maybe Chevy is saving up for a big campaign push during the Olympics.
When GM made it known that "GM is planning a $100 million marketing assault for the new Malibu so it can get the new car in front of the Toyota Camry and Honda Accord shopper," (taken from the headlines ) I was looking forward to that . Seeing "'TEASER "commercials made me think , well GM eventually will go full force with the promotion .. showing more details about the car . then,,,, fizzle or fade out . What happened GM ?
I do see a few 08 Malibu now here in North NJ including one or two in the parking lot where I work . A co-worker saw my car in the lot and admired it
When I first got my LS at the end of May , driving on the highway ,someone gave me the THUMBS UP ^ and asked how I much I paid for it .
When I got a spare car key made at a Home Depot , the clerk also admired my Malibu . So hopefully you'll see more on the road . I just think GM was a liitle slow promoting it .
Now lets see what they do with the 2010/11 cars ... Volt, Cobalt replacement (Cruze)
ect
Advertise cars they don't have.
1) Pulls left & No A/C. Took two trips to service to get it fixed
2) Second visit: In shop for 3 days for the second alignment and A/C fix. Shop found a loose ground wire that was the A/C problem. Service Manager did a good job of getting these issues resolved once I got him involved.
3) Bad sway bar. Why would a sway bar fail at 2,400 miles?
Scheduled to be replaced tomorrow.
First trip to service was a disaster. I was told they did an alignment but the print-out sheet made no sense and it still pulled left and that the A/C actually worked because the computer did not produce any trouble codes! I guess the sweat running down my back was my imagination.
I am a GM fan although this is my first GM vehicle in a while. I never had these problems with my Honda's or Mazda's. I am trying to be optimistic that service department will get it all fixed, but I am losing confidence real fast.
The 3.6L is made in the US as is the 2.4L, both regular and Hybrid form. And the entire Malibu itself, aside from some outsourced bits and pieces to Canada and the like, is a US built vehicle.
The 3.4L Equinox engine is a peculiar situation being a US designed and formerly built engine made overseas for that vehicle alone, but NOTHING else, especially not the Malibu. Don't believe what uneducated people tell you, especially around a dealer if they're not worth a grain of salt.
I just bought a new 2008 malibu.
Is it necessary to do rust protection (all body) on a brand new 2008 chevy malibu?
OR will do it after 3 years? thanks. Becasue it is a lot of snow in my city in winter.
According to GM Warranty
*Rust-through corrosion protection: 6years/100,000-miles (whichever comes first).
Found this while searching
CORROSION PROTECTION
Chevrolet vehicles are designed and built to resist corrosion. All body and sheet metal components are warranted against rust-through corrosion for 6 years/100,000 miles (whichever comes first). Application of additional rust-inhibiting materials is not required under the corrosion coverage and none is recommended. See your Chevrolet dealer for terms of this limited warranty.
I am very sensitive to interior imperfections and at this point wasted a lot of time and energy trying to find a car that is well built. Ironically one of the most solid interiors was in a rental Sebring I drove this spring. It drives really bad and obviously has other issues for which I'd never consider it, but go figure, it feels very solid.
Currently I own a 07 V6 Accord which is a disappointment, nice car to drive, but too many compromises on little things.
So, can the new Malibu (LTZ) be the answer? If I gonna switch the car that soon I need to be 200% certain that I am getting what I am looking for.
So, any rattles, buzzes, pops, creaks so far?
1)Body Shop wants to replace hood, roof, and rear deck lid plus paint about 90% of car so it all blends. $3800
2)Paintless Dent Repair - remove interior head liner and push out dents from the inside. $1900
3)Do Nothing and try to get $$ from insurance company for loss of value (long shot)
Probably the quietest (word?) car I ever owned. Be sure to drive both the 4 cyl and the 6 cyl. I found the 6 cyl. to be more quiet with less engine noise, so I accepted the gas mileage hit and went with the 6 cyl. Average at 24.5 mpg so far in mixed driving.
I did have a problem with passenger side sway bar as noted in my other posts. A relatively load clanking noise from the front suspension. All quiet again after dealer replaced sway bar