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Taurus Emissions Code
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Two weeks ago, I had some engine and brake work completed to ready the car for the Virginia Safety Inspection. The engine work was for a lit Engine Check Light. The shop said the diagnostics showed a blocked valve (not sure what kind) and a vaccuum leak under the maniford cover. We had the work done. A week later, the Engine Check Light came back on. I took it back and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it and reset the light. It passed the safety inspection, but failed the Virginia Emissions Test. The examiner stated the diagnostics printout listed a code P1131, but didn't know what that meant. Anyone know what that code means? I understand manufacturers must offer an eight-year warranty on certain emissions parts but don't know if this code falls under that category. Any help would be appreciated...
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I checked the Fuel cap and made sure it was on tight as suggested by the Owners Manual and I have about a quarter tank of gas in it. It is running good with no signs of trouble and has 45,000 miles on it.
I went to Advance Auto Parts and put the code tester in the outlet under the dashboard with the engine off and no key in ingnition.
It gave a reading of:
DTC (Codes)
P1135
Manufacurer Contrl.
Fuel Air Metering
DTC Pending(Codes)
No Faults Detected
Can I still drive the car until this issue is fixed or will I be doing damage to the vehicle by driving it?
A couple of weeks ago, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I checked the owners manual, and it stated that there "should not be any driveability issues" associated with the light. A few days later, the engine started to idle a little high, then it will almost die at idle. It runs fine at anything over an idle. No issues at normal speeds, highway included. I took the car to CSK, and used a code reader on it. I got the following codes: P0171: System too lean (Bank 1); P0174: System too lean (Bank 2); P0300: Random Misfire detected. The guys at CSK were stumped. (of course). They suggested that I change the plugs, to start. I changed the plugs, with no change whatsoever. I have disconnected the battery to try and reset the computer, also. The light came back on within 5 minutes.
When I took the upper manifold off to change the plugs, I did notice that the throttle plate looked "gunked up", kind of a "varnish" looking deposit, like you'd see on an old carb. This seemed odd, since (as far as I know) all the fuel goes into the manifold well beyond that throttle plate. I didn't clean it, BTW.
Any suggestions (besides taking it to a garage!) would be appreciated. I can't afford another trip to the garage, right now.
Thanks,
atucker3
The car was dyno tested for emissions.
What were the results in O2, HC, CO, NOX?
O2 should be near zero.
HC and CO should be at or near average for the class.
NOX readings should be within the acceptable range since a new EGR was fitted.
O2 sensors are major components determining lean or rich fuel conditions.
I recently replaced Upstream Bank 2 O2 sensor with Bosch 15716 from Parts Authority for $42. OEM electrical connect. Should be replaced at 100k miles anyway.
Bank 1 Upstream is difficult to access. Ford says remove upper intake manifold. I've checked 05 Sable and had the removal tool on with leverage from passenger side. That's what I will do if necessary. Soak the warm sensors with PB a catalytic penetrant 5 min two cycles.
I disagree with near impossible. Easier. Buy a decent scan tool. If you can remove the upper air intake manifold you can handle the emissions system components. I also have the Ford shop manual. $45 on the net.
atucker3
Downstream sensors verify that emissions are within tolerance.
Upstream sensors are located on the front and rear exhaust manifolds where the cylinders converge. Looks like a large spark plug but is aluminum with 4 wires and a connector. The rear bank same but not easy to see.
Disconnect the front bank sensor first. Squeeze to release catch. Do it with left hand. Takes some tries to unplug. Reason left hand is the rear bank connector is accessible left hand unless removal of the upper air intake manifold. I've done it on a 05 Duratec without removal.
Use a 1/2 inch O2 sensor socket and rachet. Inexpensive deep socket with wire slot at auto store.
Try cold w/o using max force. If it doesn't break, warm engine for 30 sec and apply a penetrant. Rear use a penetrant soaked sponge.
High mileage engines can pose a removal problem. I've replaced several without a problem but.
Add a little anti sieze to the new sensor threads. Make sure not on the tip. Snug tight like a spark plug and connect the plug.
Bosch is my preference and OEM electrical connection.
O2 sensor is primary for proper fuel and MPG. Those cars with Upstream sensors have a cat built into the exhaust pipe just below the sensor. Drive with a check engine warning light on due to fuel mixture beyond specs will burn out the cat. Extremely expensive to replace the upstream cat as it is cast into the exhaust pipe. In comparison, the upstream sensors are $50 - $80 each depending on the car.