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The two major things you need to do is:
1.) Install a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).
2.) Drain and fill the Transmission with a good synthetic transmission fluid.
The second step is the most dangerous, since it will require you to manually drain the fluid a few pints at a time, and switch to the synthetic over time. You do not want to power flush the transmission.
I REPEAT - DO NOT POWER FLUSH THE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!! :sick:
A lot of dealers, and oil change centers will try and sell you on a power flush. This is a very bad idea unless you have owned the car since new, and have power flushed the transmission several times before.
The older the car gets (90,000+ Miles), the more buildup aquires. When you power flush, all this built up grime gets loose, ending up either gumming the seals or clogging the filter (In a 99 Mazda, it is a non rreplaceable simple metal screen).
Nothing will kill the Mazda's 626 Automatic Tranmission than clogging up these values and screens. Also, it is very important on an older transmission is to not remove the pan (unless it is leaking around the seals).
I REPEAT - DO NOT REMOVE THE PAN. :sick:
Since you will only want to change out a few quarts the first time, it will be safer to either remove the drain plug, or to remove the rubber line going to the transmission cooler.
Here is some instructions that i used from another forum, provided by Mad Hatter in Wisconsin.
Gentle Flush your Mazda Automatic Transmission.
Items needed-
Large pan for draining
5-7 1/2 gallon milk jugs
8-10 inch piece of 1/2"(?)I.D. hose
Transmission funnel
ATF Dexron III fluid 8-12qts.
Extra set of hands
Wrench(17mm I think)
First, jack up the front end and install jack stands(don't forget to pull the E-brake). Make sure the oil is warm, and remove the plug from the rear of the transmission pan, careful not to spill(comes out very quick), you'll want to measure the amount that comes out. Drain in to a large pan of some sort. When the flow has stopped, reinstall the plug(22-30ft-lbs). Now measure the amount of oil drained(I recommend using some half gallon milk jugs), install your transmission funnel, and add that much back in to the transmission through the dipstick tube.
Now remove the line as shown in the pic, and let that drain in to a container(there shouldn't really be enough to measure). Now install the piece of short hose over the nipple coming out of the cooler, and run the open end in to a 1/2 gallon jug. Have a friend start the car, this will push the fluid through the cooler and out the hose in to the jug. When the jug is half full(or just before), turn the car off. You still get a little running out, but for the mostpart, flow should stop once the engine has. Now you can add 1 qt through the dipstick tube. Then again, start the engine, and measure out another qt, turn the engine off, and add 1 qt. Repeat this cycle, until you have good clean fluid showing up in the jugs.
Our transmission holds 7.8qts. I had good clean fluid by the time I had added 8qts. You should be able to tell fairly easily.
Once you feel that you have good clean fluid(you can flush an extra couple of qts if you want, just to be sure), reinstall the cooler line, let the car back down and run the engine for a while. Now follow the recommended procedure for checking the fluid level for your operating range, and add or remove as necessary(I had to remove about a pint, and just drained it through the cooler again).
Best of luck, and be sure to search the internet for similar instructions. I also have a post earlier in this thread that deals with similar issues. :lemon:
Thanks for the information~ very helpful.. I didn't know much about this car when I bought it..Bought it in Nevada and drove it cross country to Ohio where I now live.I really like this car although not the smoothest or most powerful .. It has been well taken care of..I hope to get a couple of hundred K out of it..The tranny does scare me though..Right now I don't have any facilities so I'm going to keep pulling the drain plug and changing 3.5 qts at a time every 500 to 600 miles...Mobil 1 synthetic .. 2 or three times and then I'm going to put a pint of pro- long in it..Had good luck with this stuff..Thanks again...!!
Went shopping today for the mobil 1 , hard to find.. I only found one store that had it. Didn't buy it because it said multi-vehicle formula..Not sure if there are other formulas or not..Checked the Mobil website, but didn't find much info..Can I use this?
Thanks
P.S Pricey... 9 bucks a quart at auto zone..Oh well it will be worth it to keep my trans. alive.
As I said before, I would avoid "power flushing" the tranny, as that can make make the situation worse (As the type of service that say Jiffy Lube might sell). The are willing to sell you anything, but beware that they have you sign a release that they will not be held responsible for any damage.
I would recommend doing a manual flush. This is a lot easier on your tranny.
Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).
It may or may not solve your problem. If you do this a few quarts at a time, the fresh tranny fluid will flush out some of the sludge, which may result in the tranny shifting better.
I would recommend doing a little extra research why the car will not go above 30, be it a clog or a stuck valve.
Good luck.
PS. If you are running the standard tranny fluid, you will find it is a lot cheaper to clean it with the original fluid, and once the tranny starts working properly, switch to a synsethtic fluid.
kfpla is correct, but I would add that I think your tranny has had it . It may come back to life again..Here is what I would try..buy 4 quarts of Mobil 1 synthentic fluid..There is no pan on this tranny but there is a drain plug.Warm it up ,pull the plug and drain the fld. Put 3 and a half quarts in and run it for a while. If it improves at all do it again after you get 100 or so miles on it.This is pricey,Mobil 1 synthetic is about 9 bucks a quart..but it's a lot cheaper than a rebuild..In my opinion these cars aren't worth putting a new tranny in..Poor mileage and underpowered..I have been pretty lucky with mine..I drove it cross country last fall from the west coast to eastern ohio with the check engine light on and the O D light flashing all the way..I started to have some problems so I went with the Mobil 1 ...changed a total of 3 times.. now it seems to be performing pretty well, I'm not putting any more money into it.. going to get rid of it as soon as possible..
Good luck..
As you know if you have been reading these forums there are some really serious issues relating to these transmissions..Personally I think ford should be held responsible for this piece of junk. But unfortunately that is not the case..I think you may have introduced some dirt into the tranny...They are not filtered..See if you can get it warmed up ... pull the drain plug and put in 3 and one half quarts of Mercon 3 fld..Don't waste your money on Mobil 1 synthetic fld. until you see if it's going to work or not..use Valvoline max life or similar..If you get any improvement at all change it again..and again..3 and one half quarts at a time..If it comes back---Doubtful--- !!! go with a a tranny fld cooler and mobil1 synthetic fld.
Hope this helps.. good luck :sick:
Hope this helps,
Paul
in it, I just had it rebuilt but I put it in neutral coming off a hill and I think the gears were cross, but the car stills move when cold. So, what should I do before I drop it and replace with another?
Thanks,
SixS
My transmission seems to be temperature sensitive with relation to the time of year (New Jersey).
This past summer, the check engine light would come on, then the o/d light would blink on and off, with the transmission reacting accordingly (no od, and I'm driving in third gear with a higher rpm). To remedy this, I'd stop (a hard brake). Then the o/d light went out - the check engine light would stay lit for a while longer before it also went out. Sometimes, I'd have to stop the car, and turn the engine off for only a few seconds to remedy this situation. This senerio played out for what it seemed to be several times a week in the summer heat.
Now that it's cold outside, the transmission seems to work better - with far fewer interuptions.
This whole senerio played out earlier today, but it was also 60 degrees outside - unusual for November.
PS original transmission / 135,000 miles
any ideas?
We were told there are two pans by the tow truck driver. I would appreciate any feedback. I am no mechanic, just a mom trying to help her 17 year old figure this out.
I totally feel for you. I own the exact same year and model 626 and I am very familiar with this transmission. I had major problems with it. Most of this car was manufactured and assembled by Mazda. I have found it to be a very reliable and well made car - especially for the price I paid.
Unfortunately, Ford acquired a controlling interest in Mazda in 1997 and they installed a Ford transmission - model CD4E – in the 626 from 1992 – 2002. It has been notorious for breakdowns and you were/are lucky if you got/get 90k miles out of it. Ford used it in a number of other models and it had problems each time. Google “Ford transmission model CD4E” for more information.
I bought mine in 2003 with 89k miles and it was a very clean and well maintained one owner vehicle. Immediately after purchasing it, the O/D light began flashing, a signal that occurs when the transmission is failing. When it finally failed, it would only drive forward - there was no reverse. I had it repaired by a national transmission repair chain. (DO NOT DO THIS!) This was an expensive lesson - $2,600?
National chain franchise transmission shops are notorious for being dishonest and a bad value in my opinion. In my case they “diagnosed” the problem by taking it completely apart, something I did not authorize. After it was in parts, they said it would cost about $2,600 to fix it. Or $360 for the diagnosis and they could put it back together broken. It's up on the rack with the transmission torn out of it. What are you going to do? If you say "no" you're out over $360 (and this was almost ten years ago, I'm sure it’s more now) and then you still have a car that can't drive anywhere and you have to pay to have it towed to another mechanic just to go through the process again. They had me over a barrel and I had them fix it.
A little over a year later (just after the warranty expired) it started slipping again and failed in the middle of a busy road in heavy traffic. This time I did my homework. The next best option to buying a brand new transmission (and possibly even better) is to purchase a REMANUFACTURED transmission. When they “REPAIR” a transmission, some shops will only do the absolute minimum amount of work that has to be done to get it to work again. To me it seems many simply want to take your money and get you "down the road" hoping you'll sell it or that it will last for the short warranty period they give you. This can also be true for a transmission that has been “REBUILT.” If you are going to keep this car, I believe the only way to go is with a “REMANUFACTURED” transmission.
A reputable company that remanufactures transmissions will go through a multiple stage process. They will completely disassemble it, thoroughly clean it and inspect every part. They will replace any items that show any amount of unacceptable wear (less than OE standards/tolerances) with new parts. They will replace all “maintenance” items such as gaskets, washers, spacers, springs, rollers, etc. They will check all the service bulletins and notices that have been released by the manufacturer regarding any issues that they have become aware of since the transmission model was put into service. They will perform any parts upgrades that are necessary to address these issues. They will thoroughly test the valve body. Finally, they will test the completed transmission with a dynamometer, a device that simulates real driving pressures and conditions to make sure it operates smoothly and properly at all shift points.
At a minimum, a properly remanufactured transmission will meet and/or exceed the original equipment manufacturer’s (OEM) specifications. In some cases is it clearly a superior product over a new original transmission since they can fix the inherent design faults or flaws which were discovered by the original manufacturer after it was put into service. And, they are usually LESS expensive than either a new replacement transmission or a “repaired” or “rebuilt” one.
So, the second time around I purchased a remanufactured transmission.
I also took two more steps that I consider to be of vital importance:
FIRST: I installed a transmission “SHIFT KIT” made by Mister Transmission A shift kit modifies the transmission’s shift timing. Shifting gears will feel “firmer” and not as soft and drawn out. Though it feels firmer when shifting, it is actually much easier on the transmission. The transmission doesn't have to work as hard, it reduces friction, creates less heat and reduces wear and tear on the transmissions components, extending it’s life. You should also get slightly better gas mileage.
SECOND: I installed a separate transmission oil cooler. A transmission oil cooler is a small radiator that is usually attached to the front of your regular radiator. Hayden Automotive claims that 9 out of 10 transmissions fail due to overheating and that every 20 degree drop in transmission oil temperature can double the life of your transmission.
The remanufacturer I bought my transmission from said that they would not warranty the CD4E transmission without proof one was installed. They are inexpensive and easy/cheap to install.
After, the remanufactured transmission was installed, I started having trouble once again about a year later! I purchased another remanufactured transmission. As it turned out, there was nothing wrong with my remanufactured transmission at all. It was perfectly fine. The problem turned out to be the gear position sensor. It was an inexpensive part and I fixed it myself.
So, as it turns out, I have a remanufactured transmission in storage that I never used (three years ago). I intended to sell it but never did. If you haven’t solved your dilemma already and are interested, let me know and I’ll give you a better deal than you can get anywhere else.
In conclusion:
1. You probably bought a good car by Mazda with a bad transmission by Ford.
2. It is probably shot - sorry (but I'd love to be wrong).
3. The condition of the car and how much its worth will probably determine if you thinks its a good idea to fix it.
4. A remanufactured transmission will probably cost you about $1,600 plus shipping ($200 ?, unless you find one locally), plus installation ($300?), so about $2,100. I’d sell you mine for $1,000 so that would make it about $1,500. If the car is in good condition overall, then fix it. If it’s a clunker that’s only worth $1,000 running, then its probably wiser to buy another car.
I hope this helps
Ok if I bring it to a shop to have them look at it..what wexactly am I looking for and is this a car I should buy or not buy? It is $2500. Well maintained and and running now at least...he did mention something about "shocks" I am not a car person... is this a good thing or a bad thing and what questions do I ask??
If you are not a "car person" the smartest thing you can do when purchasing a car is to hire a mobile inspection service to go to the location of the vehicle and inspect it. They are trained to know what to look for and since they get paid the same amount whether you buy it or not, they will tell you the truth about what they find. They can certainly keep you from being burned.
You can find them online. I don't know what they charge now but at $100 or even $150, if you really are interested in buying the car, its well worth it. One bad part on a vehicle can cost many times this to repair. I used to wholesale and retail vehicles for a living for about three years and I use them. Either ask the owner if you can take the vehicle to your mechanic and then meet the inspection service off site, or if the owner is not open to that then have the service go to them and make sure you are there when the inspection is done. The inspector will inspect the vehicle for a standard (and quite extensive) list of items that need to be looked at and then he will go over the results of his inspection with you in detail and give you his recommendation afterwards. Its best not to have the owner "hovering" over you when you get the results, you want the inspector to feel free to speak openly with you.
Be prepared to make an offer afterwards to the owner based on the results.
For a clean 2000 that runs well, the price sounds fair. However, I would ask for a copy of the receipt for the transmission work. The 4 cyl (2.0 liter) automatic transmission on this vehicle is a notoriously bad one (model CD4E). If he really did REPLACE the transmission with a NEW one, it cost him about that price or more just for that. If he pulled the cheapest one he could find out of a junk yard and is now trying to sell it to recoup a little of his money, don't even think about it. Save yourself the time, heartache and expense of of having to replace the transmission all over again. And yes, chances are it will do so soon in this model.
Read my previous post on this subject.
A remanufactured tranny or new is best. "Rebuilt" is a "maybe" depending on who did the work and what was done; it could be a really good tranny or it could be junk. Simply being "repaired" is riskier. In any case, unless they come with a 3 year/45,000 miles or better TRANSFERABLE warranty from a reputable major company with a "satisfaction guaranteed" clause, I'd walk. A junkyard piece is "As Is, Where IS." Reputable companies will give you a warranty. Without a warranty from a company that will be here tomorrow to fix the problem, it doesn't matter how clean it is or what it looks like. If the tranny goes out, you'll have lost what you paid for it.
Hope this helps.
1. From what company did you purchase it (and catalog number)?
2. What sort of warranty is still on it and is the warranty transferable?
3. Is it necessary to purchase external cooler for warranty validity?
4. What is your asking price for the transmission? I live in North Carolina
Thnx
After much research and a full diagnostics check at a good engine performance shop, I learned a few things:
I had an exhaust leak. Fortunately a smoke test revealed it wasn't a cracked exhaust manifold (apparently they don't make them any more) - instead I found my exhaust pipe had split down both sides at the first major bend below the manifold. I had a family member weld it up.
My generic O2 sensors had given out even though they were only 2 years old. Replaced the top one. The mechanic at the performance shop told me my primary catalytic converter (ie the "mini" one between the 2 O2 sensors) was out, so I could ignore replacing the downstream O2 sensor as long as my PCM didn't throw a code on it. He told me my main catalytic converter should be able to take up the slack. This got my car through the smog check.
The transmission kicking turned out to be due to a bad Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) aka Manual Lever Position Switch aka Range Position Switch. Turns out all the information in my repair manual was wrong. My CD4E was updated so that the shift cable runs straight into the transmission and the NSS now sets on top of the transmission and sends the selected transmission gear back to the PCM. It just bolts down - there is no special tool needed to calibrate its position. I cut the old NSS open and found it consists of several tiny spring-loaded contacts which slide along metal tracks. There were short-circuit burns on the contacts. Looks like heat or age had ruined the springs and when my car was running down the freeway, the road vibrations were making the contacts chatter and erroneously telling my PCM that I'd shifted into neutral - at least that was my take on it.
So fast forward to now. The car has been running good - perhaps the transmission was a little forceful in gear engagements, but not what I'd consider "harsh". I got out onto the freeway and headed to work and the CD4E wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th. And then it felt like even 3rd was starting to slip. I got off the freeway at the next exit and pulled into a mall parking lot. I barely made it - the transmission didn't want to engage in any gear. But after enough fiddling with shifting through the gears it finally engaged enough for me to get off the road and I had it towed home.
I had a flashing O/D light at one point. But I didn't know until some later research on the forums that mechanical trans. problems can throw a code that only lasts until the car is turned off.
The ATF levels were not low. I changed the ATF and found it dark with some fine metal flakes in it - exactly like earlier this year when I changed it. I test drove it around my neighborhood and found it will shift through the low gears just fine while the car is "cold" but then the transmission stops engaging unless I let it set briefly. That seems like a fluid pressure problem. Of course, I suppose there's a good chance the ATX is worn out inside and once it gets hot all the seals are leaking. Or metal flakes have jammed one of the valves or partially blocked ATF from returning from the cooler causing a pressure and/or temperature problem.
I'm a DIY'er, but after downloading a CD4E repair manual I've decided its too much of an investment in time and tools for me to fix it myself so I need some advice. I estimate the car's Blue Book at $1800 if the transmission was working.
So do I:
Cut my losses and sell it to a junk yard? (I might get $400.)
Try my luck at selling on craigslist to some mechanic that might pay me a little more than salvage?
Gamble that my problem is in the solenoid body and buy a replacement online for $145 and install it through the side-cover without dropping the entire transmission out and hope that fixes the car well enough that I can sell the car and recoup some of the car's value? (Is this even mechanically feasible?)
Are there any simple tests I might run that would help me decide? For instance I could run a line pressure test, but if it's high or low then what do I do with that info?
so I have a 4 cyl 2000 Mazda 626. From stop with od clicked it will not catch in 1st or second. But if I click od off it drives like normal. What would cause that?