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Hyundai Online Shop Manuals Access
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http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/login?returnAddress=http://www.hmaservice.com:80/index.jsp
I used the site two years ago to install a cruise control and new radio in my son's Elantra. Now I just picked up a new Tucson. The access to the shop manual was a major factor for picking the Tucson over the CR-V.
Does somebody here know the reasons of this situation? Can somebody in this forum still access the hyundai car manual?
Any help much appreciated.
I didn't think that there were crossbars available for the Entourage. I have an '07 and have never been able to find ones recommended for it either through the dealer or off the shelf at the local autoparts store???
From the manual, page 6-28:
"It is recommended that the HMSL be replaced by an authorized Hyundai dealer."
Anyway, I think it's all LEDs. Why would you need to get to it? Are some of them out already?
I took it in 9 time for a whoop, whoop, whooping noise. Cause: E-brake was rubbing when in the released position for the last 10 months.
Service department replaced rotors and e-brake pads, now the e-brake does not hold the car when it is pulled into the middle position. (8 clicks from the released position.)
Regional said everything is aligned, but will not put this in writing!
I know, call BBB
I need the BR Service manual procedures for my claim.
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Why would you only pull it only midway up?
If it is not adjusted correctly, extra tension on the cable will stretch the cable and may cause E-brake drag when the e-brake is off. Not enough tension on the cable will cause the E-brakes not to engage correctly.
E-brake should make slight contact on the first click, and the car should not move when the emergency brake is in the middle position (8 clicks from 0).
I can push my car by hand when the E-brake is at the 4th click, the car is barely held when the E-brake is in the 12 click from 0 (there are only 15 click from 0 to max) This is after HMA replaced the rotors and shoes.
Procedure is very detailed in the service manual.
If not aligned correctly, E-brake drag (light contact over time) will cause premature failure of rear brake parts...out-of-round rotors in the E-brake area (small brake shoes & drum/rotor will have to be replaced).
Hyundai does cover this repair after 1 year or 12,000 miles.
Our continued indication was, driving down slight hills...let your foot off the gas and brake...if car picks up speed, brakes are not dragging. If car slows, E-brake may be dragging...not some devised garbage the Hyundai Motor America (HMA) representative will have you believe "Safety hold-back command in transmission...car design...slows you down on declines"
Since I know about a possible problem, insurance states I will be liable...HMA & Dealer want to hold out 40+ day...to see if they will be ordered to buy-back car.
THIS IS NOT THE ONLY PROBLEM...Transmission intermittent miss-shifts from 2 to 3....HMA representative answer is my wife and I are not driving the car hard enough. We are "Light-footed" drivers. Just some more garbage! Already had the Adaptive Learning Module rest several times, A/T fluid replaced and detailed inspections
BOTTOM LINE IS I HAVE A LEMON and LEMON TECHS WORKING ON THE CAR. If the computer does not say anything is wrong, than NOTHING IS WRONG FROM HMA POSITION.
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Car ran fine turned off and now it just spins the engine no spark or gas
Are we to gather that you are pursuing a "Lemon-Law" buy-back on your Sonata? :confuse:
Let's form a club for everyone who is doing this.
I am doing just that with our Azera, so I will be more than happy to join up.
:surprise:
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Just fyi, this discussion IS in the Sonata group. It's in most (if not all) of the Hyundai model groups.
A car would not stop due to a bad plug, it may miss but not stop. Was the timing belt broken? Did you not have fuel pressure?. There are many reasons a car will not run. After you try to start it have you looked a plug to see if it is "Wet"? That will determine if gas is flowing.
Cars are not like they use to be:
1) Where you looked down the carburetor and pump the throttle and if gas squirted out .
2) When you would remove a plug wire and crank the engine and see if you have spark
3 ) Where you would verify the timing by turning the engine to align the timing mark and see it the distributer was aimed at plug one.
Cars are very complicated know and you may have spent more than it would have cost you to bring it to someone with the test equipment.
You could have the codes read by someone or buy a reader but you are spending more money again.
GL, mD
http://www.hmaservice.com/
van