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Pontiac Montana Engine Problems
My wife owns a 2000 Montana. The coil pack is bad and needs to be replaced. My question is, how does one get to it? I've heard that the engine needs to be rolled foward to get to the components in the back but I have never figured out how. If it wasn't for that, I would have it fixed by now.
I fix airplanes for a living so I'm quite mechanically inclined. Anyone know how to "roll the engine" or is there something I'm missing? Thanks in advance.
I fix airplanes for a living so I'm quite mechanically inclined. Anyone know how to "roll the engine" or is there something I'm missing? Thanks in advance.
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1. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
2. Set the park brake.
3. Shift the transaxle into Neutral.
4. Remove the engine mount strut bolts. Swing the engine mount struts aside (both left and right struts go from the engine to the front of the van).
5. Install the J41131 (I used a pipe clamp on the engine to the front frame to pull the engine forward toward the radiator).
Blg1, my Montana has been in and out of the shop since we owned it. Yes, they always need something and they get alot of "Ghost codes." You know, codes that are there but aren't? If it wasn't for the cold, I'd be in my old 1970 Dodge Challenger. An engine without a computer is an easy engine to troubleshoot. Yes, I look foward to getting rid of the Montana.
Most strange, twice in the past 6 months, both times at highway speeds, the gas guage has gone from full to empty in just a few minutes. I stopped the first time to see if I had a leak in my gas tank. I've had it into the shop 6 times. They cannot get it to "act up" when it's there and don't have a clue. Thanks for the help.
injectors clean ? Loose wire in the control pannel ?
many question in fact can put you in trouble
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I did, however, get yet another engine code. (No surprise, really) The emissions systems in those things are touchy. Being that I have two other small cars, my wife and I drive those most of the time and leave the Montana home as it's still a gas pig.
Being that my two Hyundais are great little cars, I intend to stick with imports in the future.
Engine is running hotter then before but not red. Will heat up as it idles and cool down as I drive.
Is this a ticking time bomb or will I be OK if I keep the coolant full?
Really can't afford any repairs.
Need to drive out of town soon.
As for mine, it has again broke and it now sits in a field at my in-law's house. I refuse to fix it again. The wife wants to and understands that it will be all her this time.
If some kid wants it for a project, I'll take payoff of the vehicle.
BTW, it's the last domestic car I plan on buying. Every one I've ever had has been nothing but trouble.
He thinks its the alternator since its original I think its moisture. not sure where to start though.
Replaced the battery last year, no issues with things being left on since they are all automatic.
See this web-site:
http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/
Jack ....in Colorado
Kim.... PA
Thank you for your help!
We have a 99 and have had the intake manifold gasket (just slipped in under the warrenty THANK GOD $$$$$) a few years after that we had to have the head gasket replace.
Someone correct me if I am wrong I am hearing it is actaully the coolant that GM is using along with the gasket design. Supposibly the gaskets have been redesigned the gaskets where actually melting.
It is just so frustrating we have been running cars for how many years (never had gasket issues like this) now and they just want to change things around at our expense. That is not to mention that rust issues are still as big of a problem as they are.
I agree with a presious post this will be my LAST domestic vehicle!!!!!! They do not want to admit (take care) of a problem unless several hundred people have died over it.
we are now at 170,000 miles and I still love my montana I'm sure at some point in will start costing me $$$. My only pain has been the passanger rear light. I have had to replace the wiring harness 4 times now.
I love the van; acquired from dealer in November 07. It did a 12,000+ mile road trip then developed overheating problem intermittantly, which has gotten increasingly worse. The first signs of something was the sytem light would also be on for about 3-4 minutes on start up, then off for remainder of any outting, until the engine was shut off and then on restart, the light again would do the same thing, etc. Had in to very trusted mechanics garage, and it always seemed to never act up at the shop, so problem couldn't be isolated. Mechanic would blow out the line, thinking maybe air had gotten in somehow? Van would be "fine" for 1-2 days, then problem would repeat - while it would idle "fine" for over an hour at a garage when mechanic would test, for me when I'd pick up the van, drive about 5 miles, problem would resurface - idle at a light and it would start to overheat, or on an uphill. Van has been stored three months between Dec -07 - March 08, then July 08 - October 08 (no one driving). When I picked up the van in October, coolant level was "fine" - drove about 45 miles, parked, and two days later, overflow tank empty. But, since it was refilled, it hasn't seemed to leak anywhere. (level not dropping). Van is driveable at this point about one mile, without the temp line rapidly approaching the red zone. Mechanic has replaced thermostat, and problem still exists. Pontiac dealership here put it on a diagnostic scope and said "third cylinder is misfiring", "problem with oil pressure gauge" (didn't know what the problem is) and "can't control the fans with the scope - and we should be able to do this". The Pontiac dealer guy couldn't say 100% for sure it is head gasket. Didn't know. Thought fan motor should be checked out. I've had it two mechanics who say fan motor is "fine" as it isn't acting up for them. Van with engine running, most of the time the heat won't kick in for about 30-45 minutes, then it'll be like the fans "cough" and then all of a sudden there is a nice blast of hot air, and the heat stays on.
Engine has 77,000 miles on it approximately and intake (valve?) thing was done, according to last mechanic.
Read your forum pages and it is mentioning a "hydro carbon test" . I'm a not a mechanic - in layperson's terms - 1) what is a hydro carbon test - is it something I can do - or - how is it done? 2) I saw some things in a forum for Acura's. It mentioned doing a "compression test", and checking oil to see if it looks like runny milk, chocolate (= blown headgasket) - is this true for a Montana van, too? 3) I also saw mentioned doing a "leak down test" - How is this done? Is it relevant to a Montana van? 4) Fan relay -- is this the same as the fan motor - and does it sound like this might be causing the problem?
Rates: I am being quoted $79/ hour shop rate and 18 hours for labour, + parts. Estimate is about $2500 to do the job. How much should I be expecting in labour hours and if it is a blown gasket, what are normal rates for machining / grinding of flat heads, and should the water pump be done, too? Could the water pump, alone be making this problem?
I've been told the belts are "fine" - and didn't ask if this means the "timing belt", too. Is this an easily accessible belt - that likely was checked as well?
I have the additional challenge - the van hit the tow-only level in Canada, and is licensed in the US -- so I will need to tow it back to US if I can't get this resolved. I live in Canada, "business" in US (van is used for nonprofit in US).
Can a van in this condition be "traded in"? Our nonprofit isn't in a strong cash flow position to deal with trading in - so would like to fix, if possible, and it makes sense to do so.
Thank you to all you trusted mechanics out there, or dealership service departments who can give some coaching on this. We love the van - - and it works well for what we need it for! Just really don't really want to trade in, unless to get the newer model of the Montana.
:confuse: :sick:
That sounds much like what mine was doing but it wasn't the head gasket, it was the intake gaskets which are notorious for going bad in these vehicles. With the help of a friend, I replaced them instead of paying the $2,500 to have someone do it. If you and/or someone you know can fix this problem yourself then you will be in it for about $200 worth of seals. It's time consuming but you'll gain alot of knowledge in doing it.
If you just want to get rid of it, you won't get much for a vehicle with an engine problem, especially with the price of gas and a vehicle that isn't fuel efficient IMO. Either way, you're options aren't too appealing.
Thanks for your input. I am checking on your point -- I believe the last mechanic said the intakes were "done" already. He pointed out to me, to areas on each side of the metal-looking thing in the middle of the space under the hood (gee, I sound like such a girl saying it this way -- but I know it wasn't the rad, but I don't know if that was the engine?) Anyway, he said those two things, one on each side were "done".
And - - I will call him to check on this.
Do you know how to run a hydrocarbon test?
Thanks.
Tigereye
Just a quick update - I went down and did my own check on the van, which is parked outside the mech's garage....oil is "clean", and rad isn't splashing back coolant when engine is warm. Intakes were "done" (dealership done - before I got van).
Do you know anything you can "share" about fans and fan relay or the piece that attaches to waterpump -- could this be causing the symptoms for overheating?
Talked to mechanic today -- same shop / other sr. guy - he doesn't think it is the water pump...(but he's guessing).
Plans to do htdrocarbon test and pressure test Monday.
I keep feeling like it is maybe one of the fans not kicking in properly -- but I don't know if this is they relay(?) or the fan...? It seems one fan definitely runs, as it blows cold air. Then suddenly something seems to "kick in" (like an engine "cough") - perhaps the other fan????
Thanks.
Tigerseye
If your mechanic says they were done, I guess it's a matter of how much you trust him. From just pointing it out won't do much since the seals are sandwiched between the valve covers and the head. Hopefully whoever replaced them did NOT use the anti-freeze that GM used. It is believed this contributes to the wear down of the seals.
No, I don't know how to run a hydrocarbon test. My guess is plugging a code reader in will tell if their are any emissions issues. They are quite easy to use and if you have a book, which I do, it will tell you what the problem is and what is needed.
Hope this helps.
Beo
The water pump is it's own part and is mounted into the engine block. It does just what it says, pumps the fluid around the engine. A fan won't affect it, at least, it shouldn't.
http://i35.tinypic.com/2ngc5k4.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/b66ofl.jpg
thanks
The connector should be under carpet to the rear of drivers seat (you may be able to see exactly where by looking under vehicle for a bundle of wires that come out from cabin)
From your statement of "there is a clicking noise coming from the engine", your high miles van (for a 3.4L engine) could have anything from blown main bearings, to broken cam to blown pistons. It all depends on the exact sound of the "clicking" and its sounds location under its hood. Best is to get a certified mechanic to investigate and confirm what could be broken.
Also... "Do trust your gut" as well. If your van has NO rust, its tranny is still good, its steering is still firm and overall, it's still a sound vehicle, then it might be worth fixing. Fix with new engine parts (on existing engine), or perhaps fix with a new re-built engine block. But if your vehicle is near its "end of life" and engine repair/replacement is too expensive, then simply "write her off". One of those "Humpy Dumpty fell off the wall" things....
Hope this helps....
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