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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

1235789

Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Since the cruise works, we know it isn't the VSS...sounds like the display. What does your odometer do?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Correct....looking now that the display is suspect. Since the cruise control is working, you know you are getting an adequate signal from the speed sensor.

    Pilot....But.....make sure your base voltage is good. That corrosion on the battery terminals can cause some flaky problems. I'd get that cleaned and the battery checked before you start tearing into the display. You might also want to have your battery checked at any autoparts chain, to make sure it's holding the correct voltage (should have about 13.0 volts).
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Okay, what should I do - step by step - to clean the battery? (Battery Cleaning for Dummies, please).

    Should I buy some gloves? Safety goggles? (makes me think of the old Simpsons episode with Radioactive Man... "the goggles, they do nothing!")

    As for the odometer: When the speedometer is frozen at 20, the odometer and trip odometer also freeze. When the speedometer returns to normal usage, the odometer doesn't "jump" to make up for lost mileage when it was pegged at 20.

    I'm curious as to why you think this is a voltage issue because it was my understanding that my analog odometer doesn't really pull any electricity... But, I don't understand cars that well (as I'm sure you can see now) so I'm welcome to suggestions.

    I found a used display for a 2000 Civic LX Automatic Trans on eBay for 69.00, but I have not bid/purchased it yet. If you suggest this as my next step, I'd really need some detailed instructions on this or I'd have to buy it and have a local shop like Meineke do it and just charge me the labor.

    Thanks again,
    MC
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Pull back the red plastic cover so you can get at the terminals. Get a wire brush (wood handle, metal brush), and scrape off the corrosion. Get something to pour some water on the terminal, and then pour some baking soda (standard arm & hammer grocery store orange box) on the terminal. It'll hiss and fizz as the soda neutralizes the acid. Let it sit for a while till done fizzling, pour more water to rinse off. Scrape again if you need to, put more soda on if need to, etc. You get it to the point that it's all clean.

    Let it dry

    Next day after dry, take a little dab of petroleum jelly on your finger and cover the terminal and connector with it. That will help keep the corrosion from coming back. Don't 'double dip'....don't put your finger back into the jelly after you've rubbed in on the battery terminal (don't want the grease of acid/soda in the jelly and put whereever on the body). I just have a small jar I keep out in the garage.

    You can take your vehicle to an autoparts chain, and they do free load tests on the battery to make sure the battery is good. I'd do that after I cleaned w/soda, and before the jelly application.

    Personally, I wouldn't be buying a replacement cluster until I proved the cluster was defective. I'd unplug it and replug to make sure the connections were good on the wiring, and hang a voltage test wire on it to make sure it wasn't loosing voltage at the same time that it stopped working. Something else but related could be causing the problem.

    Just don't put a wrench on the positive terminal (thereby making a really solid connection with the + terminal), and wrench it over to touch anything metal on the frame (the frame is connected to the negative terminal of the battery)....that'll create an arc welder out of your wrench.
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Thanks. Okay, tomorrow I will do as you've suggested, then after drying I will run to the Advanced Auto down the street and ask them to test the battery (should be free, right?)

    Reference your quote: Personally, I wouldn't be buying a replacement cluster until I proved the cluster was defective. I'd unplug it and replug to make sure the connections were good on the wiring, and hang a voltage test wire on it to make sure it wasn't loosing voltage at the same time that it stopped working. Something else but related could be causing the problem.

    What would you unplug and replug? Will I have to open up the dashboard in order to do this?
  • pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Alright. Returned from Advance Auto and they told me the battery was in good condition but I can expect to replace it in about 12 months depending how hard of a winter we have this year.

    I was able to duplicate the problem and the tech at AA mentioned that it could possibly be something getting stuck with the odometer because I can "fix" the stuck speedometer by pushing and holding the trip reset lever in, counting to 3, and letting go while the car is in motion. The speedometer then seems to recover and the odometer starts moving again as well.

    He did admit he wasn't familiar with the interior of my Honda, so what do you think, is there something amiss between the odometer, tripometer, and the speedometer pointer thingie on the dash?

    Thanks.
  • williamrishelwilliamrishel Member Posts: 1
    :sick: hi i just bougt a 1994 civic but it has a heating problem i noticed that the radiator fan wasnt turning on so i just connected the fan directly into the audio battery so its running when ever i flip the switch and the heating problem was still there so i replaced the thermostat it was all damaged but the problem doesnt dissapear i notticed that the water pump is working properly and i havent notticed any bursted hoses , canthe intake filter be the problem ? and one other thing i forgot to mention it doesnt show any white smoke.... i would appreciate any suggestions or help u can provide...thanks
  • marylongmarylong Member Posts: 10
    Ok, I may have the answer. Try replacing the radiator fan sensor switch. My 99 civic was over heating because the fan was not coming on. We determined that the motor was working by directly connecting it to the battery. Then, we replaced the fan sensor switch and the fan started working again. Problem solved. However, a warning: It took lots of torque to get it out, but, not even approaching that same number, the new part snapped off leaving the threads in place and the top half in the wrench. So, don't over tighten it or you will have a bigger problem on your hands. You can easily check if the sensor is the problem by pulling the plug from it first. Then, create a short by taking a wire and put one end in one hole and the other end of the wire in the other hole. Then switch the ignition to ACC (you don't have to actually start the car), if the fan turns on, then you need to replace the sensor.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If I remember correctly, there might be an air-block procedure you need to do to get trapped air out of the engine. Something like jacking up the front right (or running up on a hill), and running the engine with the cap off.

    I think it was the civic that you had to do this for, do a search in the forums.
  • poysn1poysn1 Member Posts: 4
    i was told i had to remove the timing belt casing in order to get to the CPS but wen i tried doing so i noticed i had to remove the head of the block, can i just take the head of and put it back on with no problem or is there a chance i might knock something out of place?
  • poysn1poysn1 Member Posts: 4
    can anyone please help me i been going crazy for a week trying to figure it out.. i took it to get ran through a code reader and they said it might be my Powertrain Control Module. can that be the problem? if so do i need to replace the whole ECU? Or can a bad O2 sensor be causing this?? please help.
  • poysn1poysn1 Member Posts: 4
    please help..
  • entwinedentwined Member Posts: 1
    Okay, to start I purchased this car from my brothers friend. In all his laziness he jumped the relay on the coolant fan to where the fan turned on when the car turned on. Couple months later the fan just stopped working. So, I assumed it was the relay so I bought a relay for it, did not fix problem apparently. Car overheats when sitting still not while driving. The coolant fan still works I checked both motors by attaching them to battery fan turns. I am not sure what the problem is guy at autozone said the fuse wiring system might have burnt out or something like that. I am not very car savvy so any advice would be great.
  • mdawg25mdawg25 Member Posts: 23
    Hi everyone
    I am going to look at a used 2000 Civic EX manual with 59,000 miles on Tuesday. I was just wondering what to look for on it as what tends to go out first. I've seen multiple instances of this generation of Civics just stalling randomly at highway speeds. Anything else to try to replicate? It looks pretty solid from the pictures i've seen
    Thanks for all your help
    And good luck wit your gauges, pilot
  • rakesh1rakesh1 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2000 Civic LX model, i am facing a problem with the blower switch. when i switch on the A/C the blower does not run on 1&2, but runs perfectly on 3 & 4.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    This is very typical of a defective blower motor resistor bank. The resistor bank drops the voltage of a dc motor, making it run slower. The resistor bank would be in the air plenum, right near the output of the blower motor, where it is cooled by the air flow.

    In most cars, the blower is under the dash, passenger side.
  • eddiemeddiem Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1998 Honda Civic, 2 Door EX. The forward end of the Rear Trailing Arm is connected a Rear Compensator Arm, and the toe adjustment is accomplished by a loosening and sliding a 10mm bolt. The head of the bolt and the slot are visible, but the balance of the hardware is enclosed in a sheet metal “shield”. The hardware on my car is frozen / rusted. The shop where I took the car to be aligned does not know what is behind the shield, as there is no access.

    I am thinking of drilling an access hole in the lower part of the shield, but do not know if what lies behind it will allow me to replace the rusted hardware. (I was thinking of grinding the head of the bolt off and pushing it thru once the head is gone.) Can anyone tell me if this is possible, or do I need to have a new shield welded onto the car body? Of course, my local Honda dealer wants $100.00 to look and advise me as to what needs to be done. Any help would be appreciated.
  • markandrebeccamarkandrebecca Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    We just purchased a used civic (see above for year/trim) with 91k miles on it. We had it checked out and everything seems pretty solid. We plan on doing a timing belt/water pump replacement within the next few weeks as it's needing to be done and we are not sure if the previous owner did it (we bought it used from a dealer trade in). The only issue we seem to have is that when we turn on the air, there seems to be a slight coolant smell in the air. A/C and heater work great. The car does not heat up when driving with the A/C on.

    My husband and I hope that it might be the water pump which will be changed out with the timing belt in two weeks. Could there be any reason why this 10 year old car might slightly smell like coolant when even the vent is on? Is it a sign that we bought a car with a heater core issue? We checked all the fluids and they seem to be good. When we stepped on the gas no smoke came out of the exhaust (not even steam). What are signs that we have an issue with a heater core?

    Thanks so much for your help!

    Mark & Rebecca
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You are correct to suspect a leaking heating core, if you smell radiator fluid when turning on the air. Other symptoms would be a wet/damp carpet on passenger side underneath the air plenum.....or in the winter if the windows fog up due to excessive humidity in the cabin.

    I guess if you had a large radiator leak in the engine compartment, that smell could be drawn into the cabin as well....mimicking a leaking heater core. However since you aren't missing large amounts of fluid, I wouldn't suspect this is your problem.
  • heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    Daughter called and asked me why all of a sudden her temp guage needle indicator is reading much cooler than usual. Needle still goes up over the "C" but not by very much even after driving car a long time. She checked fluids and all is normal. I have heard of overheating but never this problem esp. after driving a long time. Any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If the thermostat is stuck in the wide open position, or you could have a bad temperature sensor, or a bad gauge.

    Just as a precaution, I would suggest that she has her battery/alternator checked to make sure it is at the correct voltage...and there isn't corrosion on the battery terminals (causing resistance and voltage drop). This could also effect random electrical items if the voltage was low, but I would think she'd start to see starting problems. The autoparts chains (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) generally all do free battery/alternator load checks.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Member Posts: 5
    I was just given a 1994 civic with 72000miles. I'm told it was well maintained. I am considering selling my 2001 Altima with 68,000 miles, to get out of debt. Mechanic says Honda will be more reliable. Any advise?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    With such low miles, you are due congratulations on a car that should be reliable for many more, but without TRULY knowing how well-maintained it is, you may be replacing some things sooner rather than later (hoses, brake master cylinder, etc).

    Kind of a tough call. That Altima should be pretty reliable.

    Sorry I'm not much help.

    If you had more detailed service records, i'd love to hear about them!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    tough call,

    You're trading your known vehicle, for another much older vehicle with equivalent miles. Although it is supposedly well maintained, you won't really know for a couple of months. Struts, CV joints, transmission, engine, AC, brakes....all items that would put a dent in your wallet.

    I guess it depends upon how much you can get for your current ride, and realize that some of that might be spent for Civic parts and labor.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    To me, the kicker would be the debt. How much do you owe and what's the monthly payment? Compare how much you can get for the Civic to the outstanding debt. If you could sell the Civic for what you owe on the Altima, then take that route. If not, then look at selling the Altima for what you owe on the loan. Getting out of debt on the car loan is a good thing.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for everyone's response. I have repairs records for oil changes and a replaced front axle. The car sat for about 14 months before I got it. I've put about a hundred miles on it and then had a mechanic check it. He says it looks good.
    I owe $8,000 on the Altima, I don't think I'd get the full amount if I sold it, maybe 6K. The Civic would probably only get a few thousand dollars.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    The car sat for about 14 months before I got it.

    That could be very worrisome.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Member Posts: 5
    Why?
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    let me jump in here and tell you why..

    Had a civic (96-2000 generation) that was sitting for about 8-10months. The bushings in the rear lower control arms dry rotted! Not a good thing to have that lock up and almost lost control of the car. Bushings are what you really have to examine extremely closely (bright light, magnifying glass). for the 96-2000 generation the control arms and bushings weren't that expensive. But 94?? you could check out online Manchester Honda they've got good deals on parts. Same with majestic honda.

    Other issues are the parking brake control cables and hardware. Trying to think what else. Mostly suspension, brakes, exhaust to be checked out and even the tires could flat spot sitting that long. Also at this point you might want to examine the a/c system. I think 94 was the first year that they were using the new R134a refrigerant, and not sure if they perfected the compressor back then. So check that out too.

    I think that if you get that checked out you're good to go.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Well said. When a vehicle sets for long periods of time, gaskets, bushings, tires, etc. all dry out and can crack.
  • ir3neir3ne Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this forum and really need help. I have a 2004 Honda Civic that I've had for over 2 years; Ive always serviced it and it is well looked after. Recently I've been having trouble whilst driving and the engine either completely shuts off OR struggles until i keep pushing the accelerator in which it will start up again. I've notice that his happens when I turn corners, the weather is hot or i drive far distances. I've taken it too an independent mechanic and a honda dealer and both cant seem to fix or find the problem! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • kmakerkmaker Member Posts: 20
    Hi,
    Bet you weren't expecting a novel...
    Assuming you have had regular maintenance done and the air filter has been changed, I've listed the 3 most probable causes below. They are the most expensive to the least expensive so start with the bottom one.

    1) Fuel filter or fuel pump is almost definitely the culprit because you mention that it's worse when it's warm or you have been driving for awhile. Not sure if the filter and pump are separate components on that vehicle (they are likely one combined unit in the fuel tank) but for your sake I hope so because the pumps aren't cheap. Visit the dealership again (depending on how many miles you have on it) because it could be warranty if it's the pump. Make sure you ask...If not warranty, I would take the car to an independent repair shop that specializes in fuel injection. They will have the tools to check the fuel pressure and volume (2 different tests) and will be far less expensive than the dealer if not under warranty.

    2) A plugged exhaust system (likely the catalytic converter or a collapsed muffler) could be the cause by the way you describe it. An engine is an air pump so if you can't get air out, you won't get air in. Any exhaust shop should be able to determine this right away with a visual inspection or by disconnecting various components one at a time. This shouldn't cost you too much assuming they don't try and sell you a complete exhaust system.....

    First though, one thing that I've seen more than on a couple of occasions is that the air inlet to the engine may have something blocking it. I've seen plastic bags, paper cups, even mouse nests etc. To check this, removed the top of the air cleaner box and have a look....and check the air filter while you're at it. You should be able to see light through the filter if you hold it up to a light or the sun.
    Hope this helps...good luck! ;)
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Hi there
    My rear door (behind the driver) in my 1998 Honda Civic has been giving me issues as am not able to open the door from outside. When consulting the service center, they said we need to replace the mechanism inside which am not very keen right now. Recently, someone activated the child lock and now am not able to open from inside too. I tried to search the forum a way for me to open the door without me taking it to the service center. Is there any way I can open the door on my own? This happened once before when the car was at service, and they opened it and gave it to me. I dont want to take it again to the same place.
    Any help/info is appreciated.
    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Let me get this straight......

    The child lock is on, so you are not able to open the door from the inside......and the linkage is broken or disconnected, so you are not able to open the door from the outside either?

    So you can't get the door opened, so you can then take the inside door panel off to get at the locking mechanism?

    Sounds like no option but to get a new car............

    This will be difficult, but I think your only option is to put down the window, and with a strong flashlight and who knows what kind of tools.....reach in down thru the window slot and try to figure out what linkage to try to move, to snag the door opening linkage and unlock the door. If that doesn't work, you may have to destroy the inner door panel to get at the linkage, and then replace it with one from a junk yard. Not sure if you can get the inside door panel off, while the door is in the closed position.

    You may have to bend some heavy gauge wire to reach down to where you need to get to.
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the response kiawah. You got everything right except for the part where I need to get a new car. LOL. :D Wish I could get one easily. Anyway, is there any way you can release the child lock from under the hood (next to the engine)? I don't think we can achiever this, but I heard we can do that. :confuse: Anyone heard about that?
    Thanks once again.
  • ridgelinepimpridgelinepimp Member Posts: 3
    i just got a 1997 honda civic with 103k on it and it has a problem i think with the brakes or maybe the bearing i am not sure. the front passanger side of the car builds up extreme heat when traveling on the freeway or just on the street it was glowing orange the other day when i got off the freeway it also has causing the stearing wheel to shake when i press the brakes and sometimes when i am just driving. i took a look at it to see if something was wrong but the pads were installed with lots of life left. but i did notice that the break line was kinda bent wierd the rubber part i wonder if this can cause the brake to rub while driving. i am pretty sure that it isnt the bearing but i have know idea what it would be like if had went out. i believe the the rotar is warped or cracked and i have 2 extra ones from when i did the brakes on my 2000 civic and they will fit the same year i believe. but what i really what to know is this a problem with the breaks or could it be a bad wheel bearing. i am not going to get a chance to deal with it till thursday but i would like a little bit more on what to look for. having done all 4 brakes on my other civic i think i can figure this one out. who knows it may be a problem with the master cylinder but any help would be appreciated thanks :sick:
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Just an update. I managed to release the child lock using a plastic knife ;) . Infact it did not take much time. Thanks once again.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    a glowing disc/rotor? that sounds like a stuck caliper piston. yeah cracked/warped definitely if the piston is dragging and stuck. don't replace this rotor until you can check the caliper. a bent brake line could also cause the piston to not retract (close) since the brake fluid is slow to return from the caliper.

    check the brake lines again, then the caliper sliding pins they may need to be lubed which would also cause binding of the caliper. if after that the caliper is still sticking, then get a remanufactured one from honda. I never did trust the aftermarket reman market. about the same price, and the honda reman at the dealer seemed to be in better condition.

    as to the other issue of the wheel bearing. if it was a wheel bearing it would have to be practically on fire for the rotor/disc to be glowing! plus you'd hear a lot of screeching noise at the same time. that's why i don't think it's the bearing. check that caliper first.
  • ridgelinepimpridgelinepimp Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice thats what it sounded like to me the car had been siting for a while i should have no problem fixing it i have done the brakes on my civic before with no problem at all. i am glad i dont have to worry about the bearing that would be a pain to replace. thanks again i am sure i can figure it out and i already have 2 spare rotors that are in fairly good condition when i replaced the ones on my civic. thanks for the help :)
  • murphermurpher Member Posts: 3
    Kiawah,
    I have the same problem with my car. What was your solution?
    Thanks!
    Ted
  • murphermurpher Member Posts: 3
    I solved it! I looked at the other door and bent a coat hanger to match the door profile. I slipped the hanger between the door and car frame on the non working door and flipped up the child safety lock. This allowed the inside handle to work again. Now that the door is open and appart I can see it was only a nylon retaining clip that attaches the pushrod to the door handle (part number 72134-S04-003)
  • civic37777civic37777 Member Posts: 1
    i accidently hit a dog got to get something to eat when i hit the dog the airbags deployed and the car stoped i have tried starting the car but it wont start when i turn the key on the power windows and blinkers and everything works but it still wont start does any one have any suggestions one machanic told me there is a reset button but he couldnt find it does any one know if there is one or what its a 1997 honda civic lx
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    hit a dog got to get something to eat .... what country are you in?

    Check the owners manual to see if it mentions a reset. A number of vehicles have a relay which turns off the fuel pump if in an accident, to avoid the potential for a fire. Some vehicles it is just a special series of actions, like turning the key on/off three times (some secret special handshake with the computer). All of my vehicles have the description written in the owners manual, don't know if Honda did that back in 97.
  • slydog39slydog39 Member Posts: 2
    My son's 1991 Civic DX 1.5 FI 3 door will not start. I have tried nearly everything mentioned in several repair forums, but with no luck.

    The car will turn over fine. it occassionally comes close to starting, but does not.

    I have done the following:

    replaced distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil.

    checked for spark at the plug. yes, there is spark, but I am not sure if it is at the proper voltage. it easily covers the gap on my budget spark tester.

    pulled the main relay and following the Haynes guide, checked for correct continuity at several different points.

    the fuel pump does come on for 2 seconds as it is supposed to when you turn on the key to pre-start position.

    all the correct dash lights come on when you turn on the key.

    my ECU is not showing any errors (probably because I have taken off the negative battery cable more than once for different test and have probably reset the ECU).

    I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but have removed the fuel service bolt on top of the fuel filter and cranked the car, fuel does pump out of the port at good velocity.

    checked the continuity of the fuel injectors. they are both within spec.

    I have sprayed quick start fluid into the intake as it was being cranked, and it did not crank up.

    the battery is good.

    What am I overlooking? Any ideas before I tow it to my local repair shop?

    slydog39
  • marylongmarylong Member Posts: 10
    "i accidently hit a dog got to get something to eat" What does needing something to eat have to do with hitting a dog? (Did the dog survive or did you leave it on the side of the road)? Have you ever heard of punctuation? It sure would make solving your problem easier if we can figure out what you are trying to say.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    have you measured the resistance of the spark plug wires? are they out of spec? you can find that specification in the haynes manual.

    spark could happen, but I'm wondering if the plug wires are sparking but not delivering the right amount.

    also, have you checked the compression of the cylinders?

    another issue i had with a mid 90's civic was it would barely start, the idle air control valve (IAC) was bad. It would sort of start and then die. Another issue to check.

    Hope that helps. Keep us posted !
  • slydog39slydog39 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I finally did get the car to start---but barely. I replaced the ignition coil and then replaced the vavle cover gaskets (as there was a bit of oil on the spark plug wires). After it did crank,(it ran rather poorly) I was able to generate a new ECU code and it was the Top Dead Center error code. Either the TDC sensor is bad, or the whole distributor (which I do not think I can buy just the sensor). So I am going to put a distributor on the car this weekend

    Wish me luck
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    hey glad to help! finally a code was thrown, good deal. At least it points you in the right direction! I know that the 91 civics had an igniter problem that was part of a recall. Forgot that earlier. So to focus on the distributor would be a good direction, indeed!

    Have you also tried a compression test? just to make sure.

    keep us posted how it goes! and Happy New Year! :shades:
  • KettyKetty Member Posts: 14
    In September 2008 my friend purchased a used 2002 Civic with 35,000 miles. Three months after purchase, the battery light started blinking while driving. She took the car to her usual mechanic and was told that the alternator needed to be replaced for $400. Has anyone else had to replace an alternator? How long do they usually last? My friend is now concerned more repairs may be needed...should she be concerned?
  • KettyKetty Member Posts: 14
    My daughter is considering turning in her 2000 Civic LX with 104,000 miles and purchasing a Hybrid.

    Should she keep the Civic until it is no long usuable or purchase a Prius or Civic Hybrid? Some comments in this forum indicate that the Civic Hybrid has had many transmission problems...is the Prius a better choice?
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